Are there situations where you struggle with Autofocus underwater? Let me know in the next couple days and I'll suggest tips in my next video. Thanks all
I am reviewing your videos to help me prepare for the upcoming Pan Arab U/W Photo competition in March in Aqaba, Jordan. I appreciate all of your pointers and thank you, as always, for all of the tips and reminders. Wish me luck :)
I am grateful for your videos. I am shooting digital for 1st time (old nikonos user) and have always shot jpeg since i dont use post prod software. I may try to learn lightroom after my liveaboard next month but my priority now is learning my Z9 and Nauticam housing. Concerned that shooting raw files may leave me with images i cant put onto an Ipad/laptop to show friends upon return (or post on social media) since they will not yet be edited. How critical is it to shoot raw your first time out (expecting 30 dives - Indonesia)
Thanks for the kind words. You should be able to shoot BOTH raw and jpg. This way you can show friends right away and also have raw files to edit. Alternatively, you can explore using develop presets in Lightroom that would essentially turn your raw images into jpg images in one click, then export. Here's my article on Develop Presets in Lightroom: tutorials.brentdurand.com/how-to-create-a-lightroom-develop-preset/ Have a great trip!
@@jerseyjeff2915 ISO is the sensor's sensitivity to light. So going from 100 to 200 increases sensitivity by one stop of light, which can be helpful in controlling ambient light or making strobe illumination appear brighter. I have a lot more details in this article/video: tutorials.brentdurand.com/exposure-and-histogram/
Hi Larry, I suggest spot focus most of the time. Sometimes I'll use zone (larger AF area selection) if I'm expecting a fast subject to suddenly enter the frame. In very select situations you can even try subject tracking, but I find more success using the focus point and moving it manually (underwater).
Don't worry! I added that sound for effect. That sound is from older phase detection autofocus systems and something you do not want to hear... the lens hunting back and forth for focus. Immediate focus with no sound is best!
Hi Jaime - I was referring to Topaz Labs' Sharpen AI software. It does a pretty nice job when you consider a previously unusable photo (slightly OOF) can be fixed to be good enough for display on a screen!
Love all your videos and tutorials Brent! Thanks for putting all the effort and making/sharing them. My biggest struggle is usually when using external wet lenses for macro. i previously used canon g7x with inon UCL-165LD and I now bought sony rx100 VII and a nauticam CMC-2 but haven't tested this setup in the water yet. I hope that It will be easier with the nauticam lens, but just a bit concerned as the usual focusing distance on the rx100 is much longer than with the g7x.
Thanks for the kind words! The CMC-2 is a great diopter designed for compact cameras. I haven't compared both of your setups but would expect the CMC-2 to be easier to use. There will still be a small working distance, like with all diopters, but if you're stable then you'll get settled in with it. Will be sure to cover this topic in the Autofocus Tips video - thanks for the suggestion!
This is exactly what I've been looking for! Could you give some tips on focus settings to use for split shots? The camera has a tendency to get confused about which side to focus on and sometimes just focuses on the water line instead.
Hi, I suggest single autofocus to start and see how that does. Many new camera AF systems are tracking the subject in frame even without the user actively engaging continuous autofocus by half depressing the shutter... which means you should be able to nail most shots using single autofocus.
Thanks for the great guidance. You have a knack for simplifying the complicated. Looking forward to your next video on this topic. I'm working through the Canon R5 auto-focus options and it makes my head spin.
Thanks Jaycee! The next video will cover more general tips and tips for specific shooting situations vs a deep dive on settings specific to any camera, but yes, it can get overwhelming quickly. One step at a time!
It does not. Fully automatic focus. Since the lens is so wide and the aperture so large, usually you won't have an issue with focus as long as the subject is beyond the minimum focus distance. The exception might be very precise close focus wide angle, which I mention since we were commenting about this on the Black Backgrounds video. Hope that helps!
Hi Brent, which application do you recommend to improve sharpness? I have also question regarding wide angle shoots using continuous focus to track moving targets like sharks. Which AF area will be better (expended AF: cross or surround)? In Canons we have AI Servo AF cases which can be tune. Do you prefer to use one of default settings or adjust them for underwater shoots?
Hi Zbigniew - I tried Sharpen AI and though it did a nice job with images that were just slightly out of focus and images with slight motion blur from a slow shutter speed. www.topazlabs.com/sharpen-ai And noted on wide-angle + sharks + continuous AF. I'll talk about that in the Autofocus Tips video to come. Thanks!
@@zbigniewrusewicz7660 The Mk IV has improved autofocus and better video specs, however you're talking about a major expense in upgrading housings. If I were you, I would keep the Mk III until you're ready to make a full switch to mirrorless with the R5, R7, R8, etc.
@@emilyclose5583 Ah. Aquatech is getting better in terms of offering more control access as they grow, but I don't think you have the four buttons required to move the focus point via rear mode dial on the camera. I would use center focus and the focus + recompose technique.
Are there situations where you struggle with Autofocus underwater? Let me know in the next couple days and I'll suggest tips in my next video. Thanks all
I am reviewing your videos to help me prepare for the upcoming Pan Arab U/W Photo competition in March in Aqaba, Jordan. I appreciate all of your pointers and thank you, as always, for all of the tips and reminders. Wish me luck :)
That's great to hear, thanks Burhaneddin. Good luck in the contest!!!!
Thanks Brent! I just moved to using an an Olympus TG-5 to an OM-5, and this will be very useful for my next "field test"!
Of course 🤙. Have fun with the OM-5!
I am grateful for your videos. I am shooting digital for 1st time (old nikonos user) and have always shot jpeg since i dont use post prod software. I may try to learn lightroom after my liveaboard next month but my priority now is learning my Z9 and Nauticam housing. Concerned that shooting raw files may leave me with images i cant put onto an Ipad/laptop to show friends upon return (or post on social media) since they will not yet be edited. How critical is it to shoot raw your first time out (expecting 30 dives - Indonesia)
Thanks for the kind words. You should be able to shoot BOTH raw and jpg. This way you can show friends right away and also have raw files to edit. Alternatively, you can explore using develop presets in Lightroom that would essentially turn your raw images into jpg images in one click, then export. Here's my article on Develop Presets in Lightroom: tutorials.brentdurand.com/how-to-create-a-lightroom-develop-preset/
Have a great trip!
@@BrentDurand the part i dont understand is adjusting the iso - if you have strobes what benefit do you gain from going from 100 to 200 as an example?
@@jerseyjeff2915 ISO is the sensor's sensitivity to light. So going from 100 to 200 increases sensitivity by one stop of light, which can be helpful in controlling ambient light or making strobe illumination appear brighter. I have a lot more details in this article/video:
tutorials.brentdurand.com/exposure-and-histogram/
I have a Sony A7III and would you suggest zone autofocus area, or expanded Spot focus for underwater pics?
Hi Larry, I suggest spot focus most of the time. Sometimes I'll use zone (larger AF area selection) if I'm expecting a fast subject to suddenly enter the frame. In very select situations you can even try subject tracking, but I find more success using the focus point and moving it manually (underwater).
My camera does not make the sound you make while autofocusing? What might be the problem?
Don't worry! I added that sound for effect. That sound is from older phase detection autofocus systems and something you do not want to hear... the lens hunting back and forth for focus. Immediate focus with no sound is best!
Hi Brent, witch is she software you mentioned to correct the focus?, Thank you!,
Hi Jaime - I was referring to Topaz Labs' Sharpen AI software. It does a pretty nice job when you consider a previously unusable photo (slightly OOF) can be fixed to be good enough for display on a screen!
@@BrentDurand thank you very much. I had learned so much from your videos. Is that software available for PC and/or IOS devices?
@@Clave3oficial I believe it's both iOS and Android, mobile or PC/mac.
@@BrentDurand thank you!!!
Love all your videos and tutorials Brent! Thanks for putting all the effort and making/sharing them. My biggest struggle is usually when using external wet lenses for macro. i previously used canon g7x with inon UCL-165LD and I now bought sony rx100 VII and a nauticam CMC-2 but haven't tested this setup in the water yet. I hope that It will be easier with the nauticam lens, but just a bit concerned as the usual focusing distance on the rx100 is much longer than with the g7x.
Thanks for the kind words! The CMC-2 is a great diopter designed for compact cameras. I haven't compared both of your setups but would expect the CMC-2 to be easier to use. There will still be a small working distance, like with all diopters, but if you're stable then you'll get settled in with it. Will be sure to cover this topic in the Autofocus Tips video - thanks for the suggestion!
This is exactly what I've been looking for! Could you give some tips on focus settings to use for split shots? The camera has a tendency to get confused about which side to focus on and sometimes just focuses on the water line instead.
Hi Bert - thanks! And yes, absolutely. I'll add split shots to the list for the Autofocus Tips video. Hope to have it published in about 2 weeks.
@@BrentDurandThanks! I use an A7riii so any advice for sony systems would be awesome.
@@bertweeks2688 Absolutely. I haven't shot Sony in years so I'll brush up on the menu and Sony terms.
Hi Brent, I'm a pretty new photographer in Cairns. Just taking photos for snorkelers. Which focus mode will be better? Is it the continuous focus?
Hi, I suggest single autofocus to start and see how that does. Many new camera AF systems are tracking the subject in frame even without the user actively engaging continuous autofocus by half depressing the shutter... which means you should be able to nail most shots using single autofocus.
Thanks for the great guidance. You have a knack for simplifying the complicated. Looking forward to your next video on this topic. I'm working through the Canon R5 auto-focus options and it makes my head spin.
Thanks Jaycee! The next video will cover more general tips and tips for specific shooting situations vs a deep dive on settings specific to any camera, but yes, it can get overwhelming quickly. One step at a time!
does the sealife micro 3.0 also have a autofocus area selection option?
It does not. Fully automatic focus. Since the lens is so wide and the aperture so large, usually you won't have an issue with focus as long as the subject is beyond the minimum focus distance. The exception might be very precise close focus wide angle, which I mention since we were commenting about this on the Black Backgrounds video. Hope that helps!
Hi Brent, which application do you recommend to improve sharpness? I have also question regarding wide angle shoots using continuous focus to track moving targets like sharks. Which AF area will be better (expended AF: cross or surround)? In Canons we have AI Servo AF cases which can be tune. Do you prefer to use one of default settings or adjust them for underwater shoots?
Hi Zbigniew - I tried Sharpen AI and though it did a nice job with images that were just slightly out of focus and images with slight motion blur from a slow shutter speed. www.topazlabs.com/sharpen-ai
And noted on wide-angle + sharks + continuous AF. I'll talk about that in the Autofocus Tips video to come. Thanks!
Thanks Brent, I have Canon D5 mk III right now and base on experience. How much can be gained by switching from mk iii to mk iv?
@@zbigniewrusewicz7660 The Mk IV has improved autofocus and better video specs, however you're talking about a major expense in upgrading housings. If I were you, I would keep the Mk III until you're ready to make a full switch to mirrorless with the R5, R7, R8, etc.
Thanks again
Hi Brent, i have question regarding Topaz software. They have also Topaz Photo AI, is this may be better solution than only sharpen-ai?
Hi, how do you move the single spot to focus where you want it to in the water house without the joystick 🕹️
Thanks
Depending on the camera and housing, you should be able to use the thumb dial / arrows instead of the joystick.
@@BrentDurandit’s an aquatech and I don’t think it has that option, unless I can set a custom button?
@@emilyclose5583 Ah. Aquatech is getting better in terms of offering more control access as they grow, but I don't think you have the four buttons required to move the focus point via rear mode dial on the camera. I would use center focus and the focus + recompose technique.
@@BrentDurandthanks so much