Glad I found your videos Jerry, these are so helpful. You should really add LinuxCNC to the title of your Videos because they are hard to find, and figure out what they are for from the titles. Adding Linuxcnc to the titles would defiantly get you more views and help beginners find your videos in TH-cam.
This. When I clicked on this, I didn't know whether I was going to watch some Mach3 stuff or LinuxCNC. Side note: What a poor name for the LinuxCNC software, "Axis". As a n00b, I thought I had been using software only for calibrating only one axis. "Gmocappy" also sucks as a name. It doesn't sound like anything. Genetically Modified Organism wearing a cape??? C'mon programmers, have some fun and flash with your glorious control system. GCS would do fine.
Hi Jerry. Very good overview. May I make a suggestion that might be helpful for some of us "seniors"? Background: Your videos helped me get my limit switches going a year ago. I turn on the machine and hit home button on LinuxCNC, which gives me a 'home' in the lower left quadrant. Ran some jobs. I had with great results. Thanks!! One year later: I fired up my machine. Hit 'home'. It went to the lower left hand corner of my work area.........and then I went fuzzy........roughly remember something about "touch off" ??? Whaaa? Request: Would you do an example with a "stock" LinuxCNC screen. I use G54 in my CAD software (in this case Fusion 360) It would be helpful to know how to set up the LinuxCNC machine for 1 job, using G54. Nothing else. I love this video, yet the extra information (and your custom screen) leaves me doubting my understanding. A simple design, maybe a rectangle with a hole in the exact middle, would also help with the visuals. Maybe you could do a series of TH-cam shorts for each of the topics you covered in this video? Anyhoo, whether this idea appeals to you or not... Thanks for what you do for this community! PS: Your custom screen is cool. Right now I just have the stock screen.
Tell ya what... zip up your configuration file and I'll see about pimping out your machine with a control panel. I haven't done one in a while... so it would be good practice. Get my email from my web page. Basically, when your machine homes, it is using G53 as the machine hard reference... theoretically exactly the same EVERY time you home the machine. It then defaults to G54 where you are normally working... so when you move the tool to a position then hit the TOUCH OFF buttons and enter a value... you are telling it HERE is my working home. Kinda like "Home 2". G55 would be "Home 3", etc. The buttons you see are a lazy man's way of saying, "Hey, call this point home so I don't have to do 3 sets of touch off". 🙂 The G54 is considered preset #1 or P1... bearing that in mind... G10 L20 P1 X0 Y0 Z0
@@Askjerry Wow. Thanks for the reply! I understand the idea behind G53-G59. My issue is that I am trying to develop a "bear bones" recipe... press this , then press that. Now you are 'here'. Load your g-code and go. (like if I were trying to help a friend over the phone) I would explain the details later over lunch. I would like to send my config file and a "recipe" file. Trying to fill up the holes in my procedure. I look forward to being as comfortable with the process as you are. Thanks again!!
I offen use 3 vices as G54, 55 and 56 - of course does not have limit switches yet (retrofited WMW milling machine) - another vid about limits/stops and you probably could say it's your succes when I finaly does it on my machine! ;) Once again - thanks for sharing.
I don't use limit switches... you don't need them. If you have home switches, or if you use the "crash" method, or some other method to always set the G53 HOME exactly the same place... then all you need to do is take the time to set the machine size in the INI file, and the soft limits will keep you from ever hitting the ends again. Video 10 covers that.
Jerry I remember you saying in an ealier video (probably 10) that you don't need limit switches if you have home switches..What is the difference between a home switch and a limit switch? In my mind they are one in the same.
A limit switch resides at BOTH limits of a machine... it is there so that if your table is 20 inches, and you tell the machine to go 30 inches... it will hit the switch before the end of travel and stop the machine with an error. A HOME switch can be mounted at the end like a limit switch... but it is used to set a "HOME" position... a known spot on the machine. Then the machine is programmed to "know" how far it can possibly move. So in the same situation, when you tell the machine to move 30 inches but it could only ever go 20 inches... it won't even start moving... it will say "NOPE... I can't do that." And this happens BEFORE you start cutting into that expensive aluminum or brass and realize that you just screwed it up. I just realized that on my MONSTER mill... I have the magnetic sensors set to trigger on the approx of the magnet... instead of on crossing the magnet... and so my big monster will "home" plus or minus 2mm from the same spot. But the little Frankenlab is accurate to 0.03mm or so. Looks like I may have to rethink my method on the big mill. : - /
very nice series on CNC for absolute beginners.. My total home brew runs with mach 3. I went with mach 3 as its very similar in function and appearances to industrial grade milling centers. Never looked at Linus CNC so thats what I find interesting in this series.. Mach 3 has a method to do custom screens but its not as easy to do as liniux CNC appears to be. The main screen in mach 3 has most of what I use. the main exception is manual g-cone entry. I may fix that one of these days. I have standard microswitch limit switches at each end of the axis , wired in series using the normally closed side. When one goes open or a wire breaks travel stops. The idea is to create a fail safe mode. I have a series of connectors on the CNC and the controller with cables on plugs connecting them. All cables are wired and pinned the same so any cable will work anywhere.. You just have to make sure say X on the controller is conected to X on the cnc.. That ay there isnt any dangling cables when you unplug stuff to move things around. The only thing I will quibble about is the microstepping.. The more microstepping you use, the less effective power you get out of a stepper. I run microstepping at 2 when my mechanics are figured in I get .0015 per step resolution X and Y, .0005 on Z with about a 30% power loss Good enough for most uses. By going to higher microstepping the resolution increases but that setting fulfills my needs. G0 moves are in the order of 200ipm on X and Y and about 75ipm on Z. Cutting area is 25 X 18.5 Y and 6 Z currently using a trim router but the controller is wired to use a 1.5 KW spindle with an external VFD if I ever get one.. :) Typically with say Oak I use roughly 3/4 bit diameter dept of cut at speeds normally around 100 IPM and 10 to 12K on the router. With 450 OZ/in Steppers on 5 start 1/2 10 acme rods theres enough omph to snap a quarter inch bit clean into if you hit a clamp moving at 200 IPM.. Only done it once.. :) Ive been half way thinking about adding some encoders to the 3 steppers so i can use the CNC like a bridge port with readouts without any computer control instead of just cranking to layout lines. I have a switch on my controller that cuts the power to the steppers but is otherwise fully functional. Sometimes I cut the power to the steppers and hand crank to some point then power the steppers back up and set zeros.. A manual zero cheat.. :) All 3 steppers have decent sized hand wheels on the other end of the drive shaft... Overall a very nice series on doing a home brew CNC.... The only thing I didnt see is some explanation about why tramming the spindle, why ramp ups and downs, and stepper rates are so important to have right.. Keep it going as this can be very helpful for those new to homebrew CNC...
Great video Jerry Now I have to sit down and watch the rest of your series. :-) It is interesting that your home point is an arbatory point on than table rather than the extreme bottom left or top right. It is something I had never considered. Cheers Peter
Great hearing from you again. The current home point is just a function of where I stuck the magnetic switches when I built it... the extruded aluminum has slots... and I just tucked the switches into the slots "fairly close" to the edge. My large mill has them installed at the ends of the travel... except for Z...which also got tucked in there about 20mm from the end. I could tell the software that the switch is actually located 18.263mm from the end... and it would compensate accordingly... but honestly... laziness crept in. I just set ZERO (G53) wherever it happened to be... and calibrated from that point in space. It is more critical to have a repeatable location than anything else. In your video, you use the "touch method" which is the bring the axis to the physical hard stop and set zero... nothing wrong with that... as long as you use the same offset each time. Had I used the cherry switches... they would have been mounted within 5mm off the end. I made an indicator to show if any one (or more) switch is in contact prior to starting the home routine. (Ran out of inputs so I shared X,Y,Z home inputs.) When I had it with individual inputs... if it was in contact, it would move off-position... then come back. But as they are shared... it doesn't know the difference and could crash... so I check to be sure none are engaged first. Researching MACH3... you have many more possible pallet locations... interesting how they tweaked it to accomplish that.
Thank you so much!!! I ordered some magnetic switches a few days ago. Hopefully with this video and the switches, I will be close to getting the system / process I want. I had searched for a video like this for a long time, and I could never find one for LinuxCNC (there are a few good ones out there for Mach3). Great job explaining the process.
Unfortunately... as of right now there are no plans. I contacted my friend Riley about building one... got an estimate for parts, and gave him some money. I thought that when i returned from a job in another state, we would have the parts, make a design, and build it. When i returned, he had already assembled it. We made some modifications... but haven't drawn up actual plans. My suggestion is to contact Marshal at protobuilds.com and ask them directly. (That is where all my supplies came from except for the electronics.)
Thanks Jerry!!! Excellent as always. Where do you set the part surface zero when you use the the touch off plate (bottom of part when you use the touch off on the table of your machine)?
Nice video Jerry. Ive got a question for you. I recently bought a cnc router that was all ready built and running. I wanted to build one myself but know nothing about all the configuring involved. its using Linux cnc which I had never herd of. The problem Im having is I set my G54 X and Y zero to the center of my part and wanted to rerun the tool a little deeper and all a sudden my X zero seems off. So I reset G54 X zero and then went to X-7. and Y-7. and plunged a hole in the wast board then re run the tool. when done I can go into MDI and say G1 G90 G54 X-7. Y-7. F50. and sure enough X will be off about a 1/2 inch. Its allways off in the same direction. I got to move x minus to indicate the hole back in. I talked to the guy I bought it from and he had me slow down the acceleration I think it was for X axis but still same thing happens. Any one have any ideas. Thank you , Shawn
Shawn Baker It sounds like the X-axis may be physically slipping. Check the set screws for each axis. If it vibrated loose, pull the setscrew out, put in a drop of Loktite Blue, and re-tighten the screw. If the axis continues to slip, we can check the current settings on the driver... Acceleration... Etc. Go to my web page and get my email if you like.
Hello, Jerry, thank you a lot for your job! I have a little bit off top question: can one advise me how can I do homing not in manual mode but with g-code command? Thanks
If you know what your offsets are... you can use G10 L20 : linuxcnc.org/docs/html/gcode/g-code.html#gcode:g10-l20 You need to know what your offsets are... if for example you wanted to set the current G54 (P1) location to zero... you would issue a G10L20 P1 X0 Y0 Z0 and the current location would be set as ZERO. Same as if you did a touch off on those axis.
looks like I just found the right channel! Do you explain how you build this linuxcnc setup in other videos? I'll plow trough your channel later this week when I have the chance :D
S bezuijen I do! Not only that... but if time permits I jump on Skype or Google Hangouts and help when I can. I have also been known to help tweak your files to fix/add features. Read the description... there is a link to the whole playlist.
Yes it is. LinuxCNC has a whole bunch of functions that you can use, one of them is toggle... you point the button at the function... then the function at the item you want to control. wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/wiki.pl?One_Button_Toggle
Jerry, Great series on configuring LinuxCNC, Axis and PyVCP. Thank you for sharing. Now if you take questions I have one. I am guessing your gantry machine is driven with two joints, and I think I seen somewhere you are using the same stepgen signal to both joints to run your gantry. While this works, and I do it myself on my KRMx01 machine that I built, you have to manually square the gantry if it ever becomes racked. And I do this with hard stops before I start work, but I know there are better ways. Can you demonstrate the gantry hal component for homing, or the JA14 stuff for gantry homing using multiple joints for an axis? Regards, Joe
I use the hard reset myself. On the back of the machine I have two hard stops... one fixed, one adjustable. I dialed it in. If I move the machine to an event or something, I force it back into the hard stops, then move forward until the switch indicator shows it's clear... and I hit the HOME ALL button. As for multiple joints... nope... one stepper driver for both steppers... just a "Y" cable. You see... a single stepper would likely draw 2A so you would think that you need 4A for the two. Not so... it's not like each needs to drive 2X the power... they are just splitting the load evenly... so the other joints are running 2A, and these two BOTH share a 2.5A setting. Each is therefore running a bit less torque than the other steppers... but combined they are about the same or a bit higher. Most correct setting? Eh... not sure about that... but it has been working fine... no errors, no missed steps... so I'm happy with it. Thanks! Jerry
hi Jerry, Neighbor Ned met you a while back At Marshall's when he was in my warehouse . I have a couple questions for you one about CNC for surfboards and the other about radio communications. How can I reach you?
Hello Jerry, when i am homing all axis in Linuxcnc , the z axis is moving down, not moving up, to the point where the prox npn home switch is. What is the cause of this problem and how do i fix this ? KInd Regards, Pieter
Go into your STEPCONFIG and you will see the search speed setting... make it a NEGATIVE number... that will cause it to search in the opposite direction. This is true for any axis.
Glad I found your videos Jerry, these are so helpful. You should really add LinuxCNC to the title of your Videos because they are hard to find, and figure out what they are for from the titles. Adding Linuxcnc to the titles would defiantly get you more views and help beginners find your videos in TH-cam.
You might have a point there... I should at least go through the meta tags and be sure it's there.
This. When I clicked on this, I didn't know whether I was going to watch some Mach3 stuff or LinuxCNC.
Side note: What a poor name for the LinuxCNC software, "Axis". As a n00b, I thought I had been using software only for calibrating only one axis. "Gmocappy" also sucks as a name. It doesn't sound like anything. Genetically Modified Organism wearing a cape??? C'mon programmers, have some fun and flash with your glorious control system. GCS would do fine.
Hi Jerry. Very good overview. May I make a suggestion that might be helpful for some of us "seniors"?
Background:
Your videos helped me get my limit switches going a year ago. I turn on the machine and hit home button on LinuxCNC, which gives me a 'home' in the lower left quadrant.
Ran some jobs. I had with great results. Thanks!!
One year later: I fired up my machine. Hit 'home'. It went to the lower left hand corner of my work area.........and then I went fuzzy........roughly remember something about "touch off" ??? Whaaa?
Request:
Would you do an example with a "stock" LinuxCNC screen.
I use G54 in my CAD software (in this case Fusion 360)
It would be helpful to know how to set up the LinuxCNC machine for 1 job, using G54. Nothing else.
I love this video, yet the extra information (and your custom screen) leaves me doubting my understanding.
A simple design, maybe a rectangle with a hole in the exact middle, would also help with the visuals.
Maybe you could do a series of TH-cam shorts for each of the topics you covered in this video?
Anyhoo, whether this idea appeals to you or not... Thanks for what you do for this community!
PS: Your custom screen is cool. Right now I just have the stock screen.
Tell ya what... zip up your configuration file and I'll see about pimping out your machine with a control panel. I haven't done one in a while... so it would be good practice. Get my email from my web page.
Basically, when your machine homes, it is using G53 as the machine hard reference... theoretically exactly the same EVERY time you home the machine. It then defaults to G54 where you are normally working... so when you move the tool to a position then hit the TOUCH OFF buttons and enter a value... you are telling it HERE is my working home. Kinda like "Home 2". G55 would be "Home 3", etc.
The buttons you see are a lazy man's way of saying, "Hey, call this point home so I don't have to do 3 sets of touch off". 🙂
The G54 is considered preset #1 or P1... bearing that in mind...
G10 L20 P1 X0 Y0 Z0
@@Askjerry Wow. Thanks for the reply! I understand the idea behind G53-G59. My issue is that I am trying to develop a "bear bones" recipe... press this , then press that. Now you are 'here'. Load your g-code and go. (like if I were trying to help a friend over the phone) I would explain the details later over lunch.
I would like to send my config file and a "recipe" file. Trying to fill up the holes in my procedure.
I look forward to being as comfortable with the process as you are.
Thanks again!!
@@hippie-io7225 We will get you on track... no big deal. I saw your channel, and subscribed.
@@Askjerry Thanks on many levels :)
Great, helpful film - as always Jerry. Hope you also enjoy doind that, so I watching ;)
It was fun... I had to film it 4 times to get it right... but yeah... a good way to spend a Saturday!
I offen use 3 vices as G54, 55 and 56 - of course does not have limit switches yet (retrofited WMW milling machine) - another vid about limits/stops and you probably could say it's your succes when I finaly does it on my machine! ;) Once again - thanks for sharing.
I don't use limit switches... you don't need them.
If you have home switches, or if you use the "crash" method, or some other method to always set the G53 HOME exactly the same place... then all you need to do is take the time to set the machine size in the INI file, and the soft limits will keep you from ever hitting the ends again. Video 10 covers that.
Jerry I remember you saying in an ealier video (probably 10) that you don't need limit switches if you have home switches..What is the difference between a home switch and a limit switch? In my mind they are one in the same.
A limit switch resides at BOTH limits of a machine... it is there so that if your table is 20 inches, and you tell the machine to go 30 inches... it will hit the switch before the end of travel and stop the machine with an error. A HOME switch can be mounted at the end like a limit switch... but it is used to set a "HOME" position... a known spot on the machine. Then the machine is programmed to "know" how far it can possibly move. So in the same situation, when you tell the machine to move 30 inches but it could only ever go 20 inches... it won't even start moving... it will say "NOPE... I can't do that." And this happens BEFORE you start cutting into that expensive aluminum or brass and realize that you just screwed it up.
I just realized that on my MONSTER mill... I have the magnetic sensors set to trigger on the approx of the magnet... instead of on crossing the magnet... and so my big monster will "home" plus or minus 2mm from the same spot. But the little Frankenlab is accurate to 0.03mm or so. Looks like I may have to rethink my method on the big mill. : - /
very nice series on CNC for absolute beginners.. My total home brew runs with mach 3. I went with mach 3 as its very similar in function and appearances to industrial grade milling centers. Never looked at Linus CNC so thats what I find interesting in this series..
Mach 3 has a method to do custom screens but its not as easy to do as liniux CNC appears to be. The main screen in mach 3 has most of what I use. the main exception is manual g-cone entry. I may fix that one of these days.
I have standard microswitch limit switches at each end of the axis , wired in series using the normally closed side. When one goes open or a wire breaks travel stops. The idea is to create a fail safe mode. I have a series of connectors on the CNC and the controller with cables on plugs connecting them. All cables are wired and pinned the same so any cable will work anywhere.. You just have to make sure say X on the controller is conected to X on the cnc.. That ay there isnt any dangling cables when you unplug stuff to move things around.
The only thing I will quibble about is the microstepping.. The more microstepping you use, the less effective power you get out of a stepper. I run microstepping at 2 when my mechanics are figured in I get .0015 per step resolution X and Y, .0005 on Z with about a 30% power loss Good enough for most uses. By going to higher microstepping the resolution increases but that setting fulfills my needs. G0 moves are in the order of 200ipm on X and Y and about 75ipm on Z. Cutting area is 25 X 18.5 Y and 6 Z currently using a trim router but the controller is wired to use a 1.5 KW spindle with an external VFD if I ever get one.. :) Typically with say Oak I use roughly 3/4 bit diameter dept of cut at speeds normally around 100 IPM and 10 to 12K on the router. With 450 OZ/in Steppers on 5 start 1/2 10 acme rods theres enough omph to snap a quarter inch bit clean into if you hit a clamp moving at 200 IPM.. Only done it once.. :)
Ive been half way thinking about adding some encoders to the 3 steppers so i can use the CNC like a bridge port with readouts without any computer control instead of just cranking to layout lines. I have a switch on my controller that cuts the power to the steppers but is otherwise fully functional. Sometimes I cut the power to the steppers and hand crank to some point then power the steppers back up and set zeros.. A manual zero cheat.. :) All 3 steppers have decent sized hand wheels on the other end of the drive shaft...
Overall a very nice series on doing a home brew CNC.... The only thing I didnt see is some explanation about why tramming the spindle, why ramp ups and downs, and stepper rates are so important to have right..
Keep it going as this can be very helpful for those new to homebrew CNC...
Great video Jerry
Now I have to sit down and watch the rest of your series. :-)
It is interesting that your home point is an arbatory point on than table rather than the extreme bottom left or top right.
It is something I had never considered.
Cheers
Peter
Great hearing from you again. The current home point is just a function of where I stuck the magnetic switches when I built it... the extruded aluminum has slots... and I just tucked the switches into the slots "fairly close" to the edge. My large mill has them installed at the ends of the travel... except for Z...which also got tucked in there about 20mm from the end.
I could tell the software that the switch is actually located 18.263mm from the end... and it would compensate accordingly... but honestly... laziness crept in. I just set ZERO (G53) wherever it happened to be... and calibrated from that point in space. It is more critical to have a repeatable location than anything else.
In your video, you use the "touch method" which is the bring the axis to the physical hard stop and set zero... nothing wrong with that... as long as you use the same offset each time. Had I used the cherry switches... they would have been mounted within 5mm off the end. I made an indicator to show if any one (or more) switch is in contact prior to starting the home routine. (Ran out of inputs so I shared X,Y,Z home inputs.) When I had it with individual inputs... if it was in contact, it would move off-position... then come back. But as they are shared... it doesn't know the difference and could crash... so I check to be sure none are engaged first.
Researching MACH3... you have many more possible pallet locations... interesting how they tweaked it to accomplish that.
Thank you so much!!!
I ordered some magnetic switches a few days ago. Hopefully with this video and the switches, I will be close to getting the system / process I want.
I had searched for a video like this for a long time, and I could never find one for LinuxCNC (there are a few good ones out there for Mach3). Great job explaining the process.
Thanks. Once you get started, just let me know if you need help tweaking it in... if I have the time, I'm happy to assist.
I don't know if you have release the plans for you frankenalb machine but I would like to build one myself to follow the exercises.
Unfortunately... as of right now there are no plans. I contacted my friend Riley about building one... got an estimate for parts, and gave him some money. I thought that when i returned from a job in another state, we would have the parts, make a design, and build it. When i returned, he had already assembled it. We made some modifications... but haven't drawn up actual plans. My suggestion is to contact Marshal at protobuilds.com and ask them directly. (That is where all my supplies came from except for the electronics.)
Thanks
Thanks Jerry!!! Excellent as always. Where do you set the part surface zero when you use the the touch off plate (bottom of part when you use the touch off on the table of your machine)?
Mark Cranch The surface of the item being measured.
Nice video Jerry. Ive got a question for you. I recently bought a cnc router that was all ready built and running. I wanted to build one myself but know nothing about all the configuring involved. its using Linux cnc which I had never herd of. The problem Im having is I set my G54 X and Y zero to the center of my part and wanted to rerun the tool a little deeper and all a sudden my X zero seems off. So I reset G54 X zero and then went to X-7. and Y-7. and plunged a hole in the wast board then re run the tool. when done I can go into MDI and say G1 G90 G54 X-7. Y-7. F50. and sure enough X will be off about a 1/2 inch. Its allways off in the same direction. I got to move x minus to indicate the hole back in. I talked to the guy I bought it from and he had me slow down the acceleration I think it was for X axis but still same thing happens. Any one have any ideas. Thank you , Shawn
Shawn Baker It sounds like the X-axis may be physically slipping. Check the set screws for each axis. If it vibrated loose, pull the setscrew out, put in a drop of Loktite Blue, and re-tighten the screw.
If the axis continues to slip, we can check the current settings on the driver... Acceleration... Etc.
Go to my web page and get my email if you like.
Hello, Jerry, thank you a lot for your job!
I have a little bit off top question: can one advise me how can I do homing not in manual mode but with g-code command?
Thanks
If you know what your offsets are... you can use G10 L20 : linuxcnc.org/docs/html/gcode/g-code.html#gcode:g10-l20
You need to know what your offsets are... if for example you wanted to set the current G54 (P1) location to zero... you would issue a G10L20 P1 X0 Y0 Z0 and the current location would be set as ZERO. Same as if you did a touch off on those axis.
looks like I just found the right channel! Do you explain how you build this linuxcnc setup in other videos? I'll plow trough your channel later this week when I have the chance :D
S bezuijen I do! Not only that... but if time permits I jump on Skype or Google Hangouts and help when I can. I have also been known to help tweak your files to fix/add features. Read the description... there is a link to the whole playlist.
Jerry, I`ve been watching your series and was wondering if its possible to use a normal button as a toggle button?
Yes it is. LinuxCNC has a whole bunch of functions that you can use, one of them is toggle... you point the button at the function... then the function at the item you want to control.
wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/wiki.pl?One_Button_Toggle
Jerry,
Great series on configuring LinuxCNC, Axis and PyVCP. Thank you for sharing. Now if you take questions I have one. I am guessing your gantry machine is driven with two joints, and I think I seen somewhere you are using the same stepgen signal to both joints to run your gantry. While this works, and I do it myself on my KRMx01 machine that I built, you have to manually square the gantry if it ever becomes racked. And I do this with hard stops before I start work, but I know there are better ways. Can you demonstrate the gantry hal component for homing, or the JA14 stuff for gantry homing using multiple joints for an axis?
Regards,
Joe
I use the hard reset myself. On the back of the machine I have two hard stops... one fixed, one adjustable. I dialed it in. If I move the machine to an event or something, I force it back into the hard stops, then move forward until the switch indicator shows it's clear... and I hit the HOME ALL button. As for multiple joints... nope... one stepper driver for both steppers... just a "Y" cable. You see... a single stepper would likely draw 2A so you would think that you need 4A for the two. Not so... it's not like each needs to drive 2X the power... they are just splitting the load evenly... so the other joints are running 2A, and these two BOTH share a 2.5A setting. Each is therefore running a bit less torque than the other steppers... but combined they are about the same or a bit higher. Most correct setting? Eh... not sure about that... but it has been working fine... no errors, no missed steps... so I'm happy with it.
Thanks!
Jerry
hi Jerry, Neighbor Ned met you a while back At Marshall's when he was in my warehouse . I have a couple questions for you one about CNC for surfboards and the other about radio communications. How can I reach you?
You can email me: jerryarutherford(at)gmail(dot)com
Hello Jerry, when i am homing all axis in Linuxcnc , the z axis is moving down, not moving up, to the point where the prox npn home switch is. What is the cause of this problem and how do i fix this ?
KInd Regards, Pieter
Go into your STEPCONFIG and you will see the search speed setting... make it a NEGATIVE number... that will cause it to search in the opposite direction. This is true for any axis.
askjerry. Thanks i will try to fix thuis !!
That will work... I had to do it on my Y and my Z axis for the Monster machine.
Thanks, my compliments for the great TH-cams !!!
FYI I am using my mom's computer which is why it has her name not mine