What is the best decal solution?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- In this test we will look at which decal setter, solution, or solvent performs the best for common decal manufacturers.
We will test:
Mark fit strong
mr mark setter and softer
vms set and soften
Mr hobby leveling thinner
solvaset
micro sol and set
![ได้เวลา! พาน้องแฝดฉีดวัคซีนครบ 1 เดือน🫣 [cc] แดนแพทตี้ SS2 | EP.52 |](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IzeLtaXBLNE/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for sharing this video. Decal solvents work in mysterious ways sometimes. The underlying surface makes a huge difference in many ways
Better results in gloss surface
Any thought on applying decals on german zimmerit?
I personally have not but will in the near future. Patience I think is key
@@WasatchModeler . Thanks to your video I went with getting some of the Tamiya Mark Fit.I found that Tamiya Mark Fit Strong worked pretty well. You must apply pressure to the decal with a Q-tip after moistening the area of the decal application with the Mark Fit. This will soften the decal to the point it will began to stretch. I also applied all of this over a clear gloss varnish. This was the first time I’ve done decals this way.
Boy the Mark Fit Strong looks like it did the best out of the bunch. Better than the DSPIAE. A couple questions:
1. What is the substrate? Is it paint? Varnish?
2. Which of the decals were just Mr. Mark Setter used on, vs. Setter and Softer? I’m sure you know they’re big fans of Setter over Softer on SMCG group.
I think Solvaset was neutered a couple years ago. I don’t have proof, other than rumor and my latest bottle doesn’t seem stronger than anything else I’ve used.
It would be great to get back to the basics. A lot of people using different techniques:
- Cold or hot water?
- How long to let the decal sit in the water? Some people think you don’t want to wash the adhesive off the back.
- Some people think squeezing the moisture out from underneath once on the model is actually counterproductive - squeezing the adhesive out.
- I apply a “bubble” of softener to the decal from edge to edge once applied and dry, letting it work and evaporate. Some people apply it, let it sit for a few minutes then mop it up.
Mr surfacer 1500. Ones on the left have set below and soft above. Ones on the right have just softer.
Must have missed those posts in smcg but don't doubt it.
Yeah, not sure what is the story with solvaset.
Mark fit strong is definitely a go to. Dspiae i worry is too strong for some decals.
@@WasatchModeler so Mr. Surfacer isn’t a glossy surface. It’s a reasonably smooth surface…which I guess was in the spirit of this series?
@CFster exactly. Not working with ideal circumstances but kinda with a handicap. And definitely a nod to previous videos that using gloss for reasons that people think they need gloss is debunked.
Solvaset that all I use everyday
Another thing I've done is where you've got excess carrier film going over a smaller part (e.g.: instrument panel, compass, etc), you can melt back the film with a bit of Tamiya Extra Thin cement carefully applied to the corners of the decal (i.e. the film, rather than the printed section).
Yes, great explanation, I think the best combo currently is Tamiya Decal adhesive and then Mark Fit Super Stong.
That is a great combo. The decal adhesive is hard to come by here though.
Never heard of the DSPIAE brand. I have the Microscale stuff and the Solvaset. I think, depending on the application, I could probably get by with those two, at least until I run out. Then maybe get some Mark Fit Strong.
Great video brother!!!
Thanks!