I just bought a spare roller arm assembly so I can quickly change between different feed rollers: a rubber roller and a ridged steel roller (for thicker and harder vegetable tanned saddle leather).
A long time ago, Mr. Iwabuchi received it from a fellow craftsman, so I don't know where he sells it now. Please patiently find it on Amazon etc. Alternatively, please contact a magnet sales company.
What is the length of the presser foot you use here, 55mm or longer? I have been told not to panel skive with a foot longer than 35mm. I will buy some spare presser feet and experiment with grinding down the front and back tips.
I just tried panel skiving (with a Nippy 301A knife and a 30mm presser foot) some vegetable-tanned saddle leather, 3mm down to 2.2mm. It did not go well. I now know what burnt flesh smells like. Edge beveling is satisfactory, put panel skiving poses problems. Is there a method to getting better results with this type of leather? Here are some things I've been considering: 1. Don't sharpen while skiving, as this adds to heat build up on the knife, a big issue with skiving hard, thick vegetable-tanned saddle leather. 2. Try the tension "comb" on the first or second notch. 3. Apply a silicone spray periodically to the knife??? 4. Sharpen and hone the knife after every two or three passes (30cm for each pass of the leather). 5. Would a Nippy 301N knife perform better in this situation? 6. Use a ridged steel feed roller instead of a rubber roller??? 7. Using a presser foot shorter than 30mm???
I think it's better to cool it regularly to increase the sharpness of the blade. It is also good to make it thinner little by little with a short presser. Sharpen the blade well. Even once every two times is OK. Also use a silicone spray.
@@kawataka1218 The two best things I have done so far are using a ridged steel roller and silicone spray. I am using a non-aerosol silicone liquid that I use in a thread-lube pot for my industrial sewing machine. This has provided much improved results. I may need to respray the knife every four passes of 30cm in length, as well as sharpening after the same number of passes. I experimented with a 25mm presser foot. That may have had a positive effect as well. I will try a 35mm presser foot to see if I can maintain the same level of effectiveness. Thank you, again, for helping me think through this process.
いつも親切丁寧に貴重なご教示をいただき有難うございます。
とても勉強になりました。
本当に心から感謝してます。
これからも楽しみに拝聴させていただきますので宜しくお願い致します。
ありがとうございます!
そう言って下さると励みになります!
こちらこそ今後とも宜しくお願い致します😄
リクエストに答えて貰いありがとうございます❗️
家に有るネットで買った姫路レザーの 3㎜カチカチの使い道の限られた半裁が色んな事に使えそうです〜
1.5㎜ぐらいに漉きにチャレンジしてみます‼️
姫路レザー3.5㎜カチカチを1.5㎜ぐらいに漉く事ができました、カチカチの革が柔らかくなり使い勝手の良いヌメ革に生まれ代わりました☺️
岩渕さんありがとうございます‼️
おめでとうございます😊
お役に立てて光栄です!
また何か分からないことがありましたらコメントしてくださいね👍
これは本当に難しいんです。表は傷つくし・・・。岩渕さんはとにかく刃研ぎが神業!
厚物ベタ漉きは本当に難しいと思います!
打ち合わせ台本なしで、一発撮りの即興で何もかもやっていますのでまさに神業です!😂
いつも切れ味が素晴らしいですよ✨
good Morning;
thank You artist
Thank you so much finally i can learn more.
Thank you for your words. I'm glad to help you
非常に参考になりました!
ありがとうございました。
伺いたいのですが、左右の厚さのバランスを合わす事はできたのですが、革を機械に入れた時、前半よりも後半が薄くなってしまうことがあります。
何か問題があるのでしょうか?
左右前後の厚みを均一に合わす事が目標です。
ご教示いただけましたら幸いです。
コメントありがとうございます!
岩渕さんのところに行った時に詳しく聞いてみますね!
岩渕さんから回答です。
前半と後半の厚みを均一にするには
①刃の切れ味を良くする
②徐々に薄くしていく
この2点が肝だそうです。
また、革は場所によって厚みが変化する事は避けられない。
ということだそうです。
ご参考までに宜しくお願い致します。
私のはNP2ですが、ビアダルの送り(仮に私のは3速式?)が一番遅く(一番右)ベルトがセッティングされてましたので、真ん中(2速)にしてみたら3ミリもそれなりにできました。
これを見ても困ってる方ご参考までに😅
コメントありがとうございます😊
硬い革のベタ漉きとても勉強になります!
ゴムの樽の方が送る力が弱く硬い革には適していないと思っていたのですが、動画を見る限りそれは間違い?の様ですね、、ビア樽についての動画も上げていただけると嬉しいです!
もし可能でしたらお願いします!
コメントありがとうございます!
ビア樽に関しては明日岩渕さんにお伺いしてみますね🎵
岩渕さん現在業務多忙のようで伝言お伝えします。
スリックタイヤのイメージを持って頂れば分かりやすいと思います。
石よりもゴムの方が送りやすいということです。
過去動画でちょくちょくビア樽についても説明しているところがありますので、もし宜しければさかのぼってご覧頂ければと思います。
宜しくお願い致します。
@@kawataka1218
わざわざご返信ありがとうございます!
なかなか硬い革が送れなくて困っていたのでゴムの送り試してみます^_^
過去動画も遡ってみます!
革漉き実演4 コバ漉き
th-cam.com/video/fE3nqGBoDQQ/w-d-xo.html
こちらでも触れています
↑こちら
ビア樽に関して説明している動画
I just bought a spare roller arm assembly so I can quickly change between different feed rollers: a rubber roller and a ridged steel roller (for thicker and harder vegetable tanned saddle leather).
yes.
Are you using a black rubber roller here with the thicker, harder leather?
Yes Uses a black rubber roller
If one is always using Nitto tape on the presser feet, is there no need to polish the feet to a mirror finish?
There is no problem if the tape does not come off. The finish is normal and okay.
Is it possible to find those rectangular workshop magnets online?
A long time ago, Mr. Iwabuchi received it from a fellow craftsman, so I don't know where he sells it now. Please patiently find it on Amazon etc. Alternatively, please contact a magnet sales company.
@@kawataka1218 Thanks. I'm looking.
Is it not necessary to grease both sides of the dogbone when inserting the roller arm assembly?
There is no problem without applying grease
@@kawataka1218 This is helpful to know. There is a subtle art to positioning the dogbone just right when inserting the roller arm assembly.
What is the length of the presser foot you use here, 55mm or longer? I have been told not to panel skive with a foot longer than 35mm. I will buy some spare presser feet and experiment with grinding down the front and back tips.
I am using 50 mm or more Please do your best so that you can control it well.
I just tried panel skiving (with a Nippy 301A knife and a 30mm presser foot) some vegetable-tanned saddle leather, 3mm down to 2.2mm. It did not go well. I now know what burnt flesh smells like. Edge beveling is satisfactory, put panel skiving poses problems.
Is there a method to getting better results with this type of leather?
Here are some things I've been considering:
1. Don't sharpen while skiving, as this adds to heat build up on the knife, a big issue with skiving hard, thick vegetable-tanned saddle leather.
2. Try the tension "comb" on the first or second notch.
3. Apply a silicone spray periodically to the knife???
4. Sharpen and hone the knife after every two or three passes (30cm for each pass of the leather).
5. Would a Nippy 301N knife perform better in this situation?
6. Use a ridged steel feed roller instead of a rubber roller???
7. Using a presser foot shorter than 30mm???
I think it's better to cool it regularly to increase the sharpness of the blade. It is also good to make it thinner little by little with a short presser.
Sharpen the blade well. Even once every two times is OK. Also use a silicone spray.
@@kawataka1218 I've tried a ridged steel roller with a little better results.
@@kawataka1218 The two best things I have done so far are using a ridged steel roller and silicone spray. I am using a non-aerosol silicone liquid that I use in a thread-lube pot for my industrial sewing machine. This has provided much improved results. I may need to respray the knife every four passes of 30cm in length, as well as sharpening after the same number of passes.
I experimented with a 25mm presser foot. That may have had a positive effect as well. I will try a 35mm presser foot to see if I can maintain the same level of effectiveness.
Thank you, again, for helping me think through this process.
半裁を漉いてくれる革漉き屋さんが受付を辞めてしまったので、卓上革漉き機である程度の大きさのものが漉けないか調べていました。
革漉き機買います!。
ちなみに、後半の方で刃の位置でミリ数をおっしゃっていましたが、押さえ金と回転刃の距離をおっしゃっていたのでしょうか?
革漉き屋さんどんどん減ってしまっている現状ですね😢
岩渕さんはNIPPY製を推奨されていますよ!
革漉き精度と部品交換等のちのちのメンテナンスを考えたときにNIPPY製に勝るものなしです😀
そうですね!
押さえ金と回転の刃の距離ですね。