Howdy Dan! Nicely done. Really like this effect on a black tank car. The tapping off for the patch work is so brilliant in its simplicity lol. I don't think I would have ever thought of that. I didn't notice when this video was posted (7 years ago)... and I saw the Cool Whip for $.99 in the Meijer ad and I thought what a great deal 🤣
For trucks, wheels, freight car bodies and locos to add rust I use REAL rust. I take a roll of fine steel wool and put it into a quart jar and fill it up with white vinegar and set it on a window sill so the sun can shine on it. After a month or two, I pour the liquid out into a stainless photo tray from my darkroom (10X14). After it is completely dry I use a single edged razor blade scraper and scrape the rust out of the tray. It usually comes out as a fine powder. I then store it in a snuff container. Depending on how long you leave the steel wool in the vinegar my batches come out with different colors of rust, i.e., some are orange and others are a deeper colored red. When I get ready to use it I put several scoops of my rust into a plastic communion cup (neat little cups for mixing paints) and add some alcohol, Elemer's white glue and a dab of water soluble glycerin. Then I just brush it on. If I want an area where the rust has eaten through the metal (plastic) I use my X-acto knife and make some gouges in the sides of a car and fill it up with my rust. It looks very realistic 'cause it is REAL rust! Happy Railroading! W Rusty Lane in eastern Tennessee (Witherington Place Railroad)
Good video, Danny Boy! You've helped more modelers than you'll truly know. Hell, you've helped me and I'm an old fart that's been in the hobby a long time. Due to the size, I'd like to see you do some N Scale as well, to see if your techniques work on it. If you need equipment to experiment with, I've got it. Thanks, Bill
Ya know, I've found that using some eye shadow make-up I got from the Dollar Tree works better than using weathering pastel chalks. Since it is make-up it sticks a lot better than chalk. And it is only $1.00. I get the darker earth tones that are from light to dark earth tone. Really works well and is sooooo much cheaper.
Very informative video! Honestly probably the most helpful when it comes to fading. I hope to see more how to videos in the future, preferably how you weather your trucks and wheel sets.
Something I do when airbrushing a car is to remove the metal wheels and pop in some plastic wheels. That way I don't get paint all over the treads of the metal wheels, and the axle ends keep paint out of the trucks.
I ended up using white instead and added dry brushing effects of grey. It was an ADM tank car. Thanks for the demonstration, I will certainly use it in the future.
Great Video! really learned something. Could you do a video or explain how you did the graffiti on that tank car? Looks just like somebody used a spray can, great job.
Hi There! Just wanted to ask you a couple of questions. First, have you ever tried the use an airbrush medium and distilled water as opposed to the 50% isopropyl alcohol that you use to mix with the paint? Secondly, have you ever used an ultrasonic cleaner to clean your airbrush? Great videos as always, very informative and well done Thank you!
Dan you said you use 40psi I have heard other people using 20-25psi what are your reasons ? I am just starting out with an air brush. Great videos keep it up. :~)
Looks great Dan! Quick question on the reflective striping do you fade over those as well or just apply new or old looking striping afterwards? I know every now and then you well put new next to the old chipped ones which looks awesome!!
Very helpful and a great looking result. What tape do you use for masking the reporting marks etc.? Apologies if you've answered that question on another video.
Great vid. I have a few questions. I have been weathering using an airbrush for over 20yrs now, using the Floquil and Polly S. I have always used thinner or water, respectively to thin out my paints and sprayed with about 15 p.s.i. Acrylic is water based paint. What is the advantage of using alcohol? Wouldn’t straight water thin it out just as well.
Hi there, thanks for the videos. I've got a problem, my tank cars are made from glossy plastic and the paint coagulates, doesn't stay spread. Have you ever met this kind of problem? Thanks.
What you need to do is spray a dullcoat on your models before spraying fade to fix the issue. The dullcoat provides tooth for the paint to stick. Also, you may want to go with less thinner in your dilution.
Hi Dan, got a question more. My problem is still there: even after applying dull coat, the wash liquid still coagulates. I used water to dilute marabu acrylic paint. What do you think could go wrong? Thanks in advance.
Honestly I think airbrush fading a locomotive is better with a light gray or white airbush ready paint. This method Daniel used is great for freight cars.
Howdy Dan! Nicely done. Really like this effect on a black tank car. The tapping off for the patch work is so brilliant in its simplicity lol. I don't think I would have ever thought of that.
I didn't notice when this video was posted (7 years ago)... and I saw the Cool Whip for $.99 in the Meijer ad and I thought what a great deal 🤣
Your advice was brilliant. I needed to fade a Tiger I tank and used this method only using dark yellow for a fade. Exactly the look I wanted. Thanks !
For trucks, wheels, freight car bodies and locos to add rust I use REAL rust. I take a roll of fine steel wool and put it into a quart jar and fill it up with white vinegar and set it on a window sill so the sun can shine on it. After a month or two, I pour the liquid out into a stainless photo tray from my darkroom (10X14). After it is completely dry I use a single edged razor blade scraper and scrape the rust out of the tray. It usually comes out as a fine powder. I then store it in a snuff container. Depending on how long you leave the steel wool in the vinegar my batches come out with different colors of rust, i.e., some are orange and others are a deeper colored red. When I get ready to use it I put several scoops of my rust into a plastic communion cup (neat little cups for mixing paints) and add some alcohol, Elemer's white glue and a dab of water soluble glycerin. Then I just brush it on. If I want an area where the rust has eaten through the metal (plastic) I use my X-acto knife and make some gouges in the sides of a car and fill it up with my rust. It looks very realistic 'cause it is REAL rust! Happy Railroading!
W Rusty Lane in eastern Tennessee (Witherington Place Railroad)
Good video, Danny Boy!
You've helped more modelers than you'll truly know.
Hell, you've helped me and I'm an old fart that's been in the hobby a long time.
Due to the size, I'd like to see you do some N Scale as well, to see if your techniques work on it.
If you need equipment to experiment with, I've got it.
Thanks, Bill
Great job on the tank car Dan.
Ya know, I've found that using some eye shadow make-up I got from the Dollar Tree works better than using weathering pastel chalks. Since it is make-up it sticks a lot better than chalk. And it is only $1.00. I get the darker earth tones that are from light to dark earth tone. Really works well and is sooooo much cheaper.
Looks great man! Thanks for the tips. I'm just starting out with airbrush weathering.
thanks for another fantastic tutorial. Going into my favourites .
Very informative video! Honestly probably the most helpful when it comes to fading. I hope to see more how to videos in the future, preferably how you weather your trucks and wheel sets.
It's coming in the next how to video on weathering a hopper. ~Daniel
Excellent excellent excellent I can't wait to try this. I have been wanting to give my Badger 360 a try. Thanks for the info and how to.
Something I do when airbrushing a car is to remove the metal wheels and pop in some plastic wheels. That way I don't get paint all over the treads of the metal wheels, and the axle ends keep paint out of the trucks.
Better yet just remove the whole truck assembly. Paint those with acrylics and brush then powders
Great method, I use it on the military vehicles to 👍
Thanks Dan, It helps out How to do weathering
Cool whhhhhip. Can hear Stewie Griffin now lol.
Great weathering and video though.
Great tutorial
Thanks for answering my question.
I ended up using white instead and added dry brushing effects of grey. It was an ADM tank car. Thanks for the demonstration, I will certainly use it in the future.
@@josephross8373 what ended up being better? Gray or white? Like on the previous UTLX acid car, that finish was fantastic.
What airbrush and compressor do you use for this weathering?
Awesome work!!!!
WOW! 99 cents for cool whip!
Great Video! really learned something. Could you do a video or explain how you did the graffiti on that tank car? Looks just like somebody used a spray can, great job.
Nice, very nice.
Hi There! Just wanted to ask you a couple of questions. First, have you ever tried the use an airbrush medium and distilled water as opposed to the 50% isopropyl alcohol that you use to mix with the paint? Secondly, have you ever used an ultrasonic cleaner to clean your airbrush? Great videos as always, very informative and well done Thank you!
Dan you said you use 40psi I have heard other people using 20-25psi what are your reasons ? I am just starting out with an air brush. Great videos keep it up. :~)
Bravo!
Thank you for sharing that. What tape did you use. Is it scotch tape? Or does it matter?
Looks great Dan! Quick question on the reflective striping do you fade over those as well or just apply new or old looking striping afterwards? I know every now and then you well put new next to the old chipped ones which looks awesome!!
In this case, I cleaned the striping off after the fading was done.
Very helpful and a great looking result. What tape do you use for masking the reporting marks etc.? Apologies if you've answered that question on another video.
I use blue painter's tape, but the best way to use this is to cut your own straight edges in the strips. NEVER trust the factory cut edge.
excellent, the alcohol that makes you paint?
Great video! Curios - did you mask the safety strips or clean them off? Thanks.
I think they're cleaned off. He probably did it just before the clearcoating
He mentioned in a reply to another comment that he cleaned them off.
What airbrush are you using? It looks like a Paasch H or a Badger 350.
I cant find 50% alcohol anywhere. is it ok to use 70%?
Yes, 70 percent will work fine! Don't go above that though, otherwise you are using paint stripper.
Great vid. I have a few questions. I have been weathering using an airbrush for over 20yrs now, using the Floquil and Polly S. I have always used thinner or water, respectively to thin out my paints and sprayed with about 15 p.s.i. Acrylic is water based paint. What is the advantage of using alcohol? Wouldn’t straight water thin it out just as well.
I think he uses alcohol for a faster drying time. I usually thin with equal parts alcohol and distilled water.
Hi there, thanks for the videos. I've got a problem, my tank cars are made from glossy plastic and the paint coagulates, doesn't stay spread. Have you ever met this kind of problem? Thanks.
What you need to do is spray a dullcoat on your models before spraying fade to fix the issue. The dullcoat provides tooth for the paint to stick. Also, you may want to go with less thinner in your dilution.
Thanks a lot Dan!
Hi Dan, got a question more.
My problem is still there: even after applying dull coat, the wash liquid still coagulates. I used water to dilute marabu acrylic paint. What do you think could go wrong?
Thanks in advance.
Do you use the same technique on engines?
Honestly I think airbrush fading a locomotive is better with a light gray or white airbush ready paint. This method Daniel used is great for freight cars.