How to Install a Grounding Rod The Easy Way (Full Demonstration)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ต.ค. 2013
- ** This is NOT for electricians or contractors or anyone subject to building codes. You have been warned**
This is a follow up video to a video I shot a while back where I wished I had shown a demonstration and more in-depth, step by step, instructions. Watch as I show you how to install an 8 foot copper grounding rod into the ground in about 15 minutes. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thanks for the great Idea!
You are welcome!
1. This method should NOT be used for ground rod installation. The ground rod(s) work by coupling with the surrounding soil. The electrical code requires that the soil be undisturberd or compacted. This method will create voids and the soil will not be compacted around the rod. This increases the resistance of the connection which in turn reduces the effectiveness of the driven rod. The bottom line is, do not use this method. Ground rods should be driven.
2. To answer the question regarding grounding below, you should not attach an equipment ground to a neutral bar, downstream of the electric service, as it creates a parallel path for current to flow. Current on the neutral will not flow on the equipment grounding conductors creating a shock hazard. Anything that is metal in the structure would now carry current as the current will seek all paths back to the service (or more properly said, the utility transformer on a grounded system). The amount of current will be dependant upon the resistance of the particular path but rest assured, it will take all paths. NEVER connect an equipment ground, downstream of an electrical service, to a neutral bar.
+mptashkin Read the video description.
Where does the code say undisturbed or compacted?
Where in article 250 is this?
Is it not possible for the soil to settle itself again?
How does this method of installation create a unsuitable connection with the earth?
What is the new resistance of a ground rod driven via this easier method?
Is a ground rod 8 feet in length so that every square inch makes contact, or so that a certain amount makes contact?
Why does the new code require 2 ground rods driven 6 feet apart?
What are the methods of testing a good ground rod installation and do inspectors carry the specialized equipment necessary for testing them as well as the site?
dangerdavefreestyle all they will ask is, "was the installation of electrical outlets, lights and the delivery of supply done by a registered person?" if no, vacate, prosecute + rewire. also, this is youtube - people watch this shit all around the world.
You are exactly correct. Also not to speak of the mess this makes. It isn't that difficult to drive in a gnd rod. It should measure less than 25 ohms resistance. Also the spacing between 2 gnd rods should equal the rod length.
Very nice exclamation right on the button
This is way too much needless work: just dig a small hole with a spoon or anything else, fill it with water, stick the rod in and start jerking it up and down, not by force, just pull it half way up and let it fall down or push it down using minimum effort, if the water drains, just add water without taking the rod out of the hole and keep jerking it... you will be amazed how easily and quickly it will dig its way through... I buried one in less than 5 minutes.
this is great thank you... I have a question, why are you grounding the box? does that mean all outlets in the house are now grounded? I live in a 1950's house and just found out that outlets in the bedroom and mainfloor aren't grounded. I'm just reading up on Earthing and Grounding for health benefits, and want to ground my house. Do you know what are the contraindications to not having a grounded house?
Grounding is a good idea because of static DC electricity that can build up on lines, even AC lines in your house, and discharge or cause modern sensitive appliances to fail. It probably isn't a big deal in your house unless you are planning to sell the house soon (would be a drawback for a potential buyer if they find it in the inspection) or if you are doing some remodeling anyway and have torn down the plaster or sheet rock walls so you can have access to the wiring. If you don't have either of those situations, it probably isn't worth the hassle.
To answer your other question, the grounding rod I installed will provide a ground for any circuits wired from that box that I installed on the side of the house. However, that doesn't mean that the interior of your house is wired for a ground, which is a third wire in your AC wiring in your walls. Older homes did not have the ground wire so even if you installed the grounding rod outside, your outlets with old wiring would still not be grounded.
We almost always do underground service, I just toss a ground plate in before backfill. I’ve never had to drive a ground rod now that I think of it.
That works but that's called of you for or horizontal ground I need to be at least 24 inches under the ground, and we always run 4/0 copper, for about 25 feet, to give the copper a good round diameter and lots of contact with ex around the Earth
Can you bury it with soild once done to conceal it so it will look clean and tidy? Thanks for this video man.
Yes, you can bury the entire rod once you make the connection to the wire. But keep in mind that the connection that the wire makes with the grounding rod may corrode over time and lose its effectiveness.
Why not use a 3/4" rigid pipe so that the hose bib fits on and does not leak? I have not tried that with rigid pipe but water tunneling with 3/4" PVC works like a champ with a 3/4" female adapter on there...
I don't have any trouble with leaking so far and it has been on there for well over a year. The box itself is underneath the eave of my roof so that helps but even driving rain doesn't penetrate. It is a NEMA-3R box for outdoor use.
I believe the reason for disallowing bonding between neutral and ground at a sub panel is the lack of a grounding rod at sub panels being closely connected as it is at the service entry. You can place sub panels wherever you want where as a main panel must be placed no more than six feet from the powers building entry point.
Second nothing can protect you from lighting strikes. You can only decrease your odds of damage by lightning arrestors outside of a building. Transformers are supposed to but not always be grounded at the pole.
If a sub panel is going to be used at a second building and is at least a one hundred amp main 240 volt panel can you supply it without a ground and use a ground rod system as long as you meet service entry qualifications?
Kim O'Brien Kim, unfortunately I am not experienced enough with AC electricity and electrical code requirements to know the answer to that. I am sorry!
lmao you are clueless
We disallow bonding the neutral and ground at subpanels because doing so introduces the possibility of a ground fault traveling through the neutral back to the main panel. Also, additional ground rods should NOT be driven separately for subpanels. Doing so introduces the possibility of side flashes in lightning strikes. All grounding should be done to the single grounding point on the structure, usually located at the main panel. Consult Mike Holt's grounding and bonding videos for further information.
I have to install two ground rods for a sub panel at my shed. Thanks for the video.
You are welcome. Good luck!
High Voltage Lab - Grounding Rods Part 1
48 Seconds with the Hilti
HAMMER DRILL IS THE WAY TO GO !!!!!
I was considering this method until I saw how close you are to the foundation, and then I read the comments... guess I’ll be doing it the hard way.
Also what the heck is on your panel bussing? That looks like #4 tied to #8 or something? All red?
Just wondering.
I need to do a video on my combiner boxes. They are load centers converted for use with DC. Basically I have one red wire connecting the two positive blades together. I have the negative side wired to ground. Then I have some breakers for being able to disconnect loads if I need to (I realize they could arc so if I need to work on them in a dangerous situation I physically disconnect the wires completely from the batteries). There is a black 1 AWG wire coming in from the batteries via a charge controller and a red 1 AWG coming from the same. Then it is converted to 4 or 6 AWG to each load, max 15 amps.
I used the same method to sink all my rods but then I came across a comment that kinda make sense. When we water drill it creates a hole which is wider then a rod. Common sense tels me my rod has no tide contact with earth soil. Any comments?
Just like with any hole you dig, it will eventually be filled in with soil from erosion and shifting due to rain water. It will compact itself and be like the rest of the earth. I shake my head when people say that the rod doesn't come in contact with the earth. Well, try pulling it back out then! Even before it dries that thing is in there and you can't move it.
This is absurd. Perhaps over years (decades) the ground near the bottom will fill back in, but in the meantime you still have a poor ground. NEC requires a full 2.5M of contacted into undisturbed soil. The soil at the top will recompact, but not down below. There is no mechanism for that to happen which is why posts are cemented or used aggregate back-fill. (non-compressible) Speak where you are an expert, or don't give advice.
All other comments aside, could you remove the hose and just drop the rod into the conduit, and then pull the conduit out?
Not sure.
The only thing I can say is that the upside the rod has to be concreted and it has to be suitable for inspection, not just filled with the soil.
I haven't seen any of these concreted before on any home I have lived in or owned. Is that a new thing?
I take it there is no footing under the foundation of your house lol!
Mark Davis Not 6 inches from the side, no.
I use an old black n decker spline drive hammer drill. Rod fit in nice. When i have no power i use a Milwaukee 18volt hammer drill, welded an old rusty socket on to a broken bit to cup the top of the rod. In both cases i Drill a 30" hole first then pour water in and ram the rod in. Angle away ftom footing of course. Always assume there is one. Pulling a rod is a bitch! Going to the store for another rod sucks. Cutting and calling it good is lame and just wrong
Good thoughts, thanks.
Do all American homes have there own ground rods? Seems weird, where I live in Sweden the grounding is made at the electricity station by the utility company.
gamingSlasher Yes I think all homes have grounding rods according to the electric code. I have read that it is not necessary but is more for an extra measure of safety.
gamingSlasher It is required by code in the US. The rods gives electricity an alternate path than through your home. With non-conducive materials being used for water. grounding to the water pipes can create problems ppzzzttt.
gamingSlasher Many years ago some systems were what is called floating systems with no ground used at all. It has been determined that a grounded system is safer than ungrounded or floating systems. Your implying that in Sweden that your ground wire runs the full length of the distribution system or ignores a separate ground until it comes into the home. if you have a fully underground system it might be safe to not use a separate ground until reaching the home. Or maybe you are mistaken and the ground originates at the last transformer. However except in big cities and new subdivisions most of us receive our power from wire on wooden poles which are subjected to auto crashes and weather downing. So it would not be unusual for a transformer to lose its ground after a pole comes down. Utility workers are usually private company employees and after a storm big pushes for getting stuff done often results in cutting safety corners which are put off to another time. If your service is properly grounded internally that should protect you from most external problems.
Kim O'Brien
Thanks for your input. I meant at the last transformer.
Grounding rods are for the pure purpose of dissipating the induced current produced from nearby lightning strikes. Otherwise, the induced current in metal parts of a structure can arc as they travel to ground.
Pretty cool, you get a shower at the same time...
+Junior D Bonus, right?
I use the rod itself to churn the water at the bottom, just poured from a jug, into the hole occasionally. No tools, no hose, no hose fitting/ Takes about 1 minute/foot. Be careful to avoid large roots, ground pipes, or foundation footings.
I'm sure that works well. Thanks for the tip!
how much did you pay for the copper rod ?
The actual grounding rod is about $10 for an 8 footer if I remember correctly.
Can't you just remove the hose from the pipe, and drop the copper rod in the center of the pipe, and then pull just the pipe out, leaving the copper rod in the ground? Should eliminate any need for pounding down the copper rod.
Good idea, but unfortunately it is too thick. The copper rod and the electrical conduit pipe that I used for the drill are pretty much the same diameter. You don't want to use a pipe that is too wide because then the dirt won't fill back in really snug around the rod. The rod needs very tight contact with the earth to provide the proper ground. If it is just loose fill around it then the rod will not be effective.
LDSreliance What if you used a 3/4 PCV digging rod that had a union at the top that converted to hose bib past the union? Seems like the catheter approach would work well.. PVC is pretty cheap too.. Won't the ground eventually settle and secure in the rod anyway? Can you backfill with anything?
Jeff Mucha Yes, the soil will eventually fill in as it rains a few times and will be every bit as secure as someone using an expensive machine or other method. No need to backfill, this method saturates the ground and turns it to mud so it will dry and harden around the rod once you get it down in there.
I don't know about the PVC. It might crack or chip against rocks. It should work but it might not be quite as effective as the metal conduit that I used and it was only a couple bucks.
i use full size jack hammer.
When it comes to grounding and bonding of electrical systems everyone is subject to building codes and esp. NEC.That said, it is messier than beating the rod through rocks, and clay. A larger pipe should enable you to disconnect the hose, insert the rod through the pipe then withdraw the pipe leaving the rod in place. Using water is a good idea, even better when its hot outside
MrSullione Good points. Thanks!
MrSullione That's actually what I thought he was going to do. I'm installing one this coming weekend, I'll give it a try and report back!
Cool, good luck!
then you've put a rod in the ground, but taken the ground away!
earthing rods work based on contect with the ground, more contact = better earth.
by your method you're doing your best to minimise how much contact the rod has with the earth around it because the pipe you pull out will leave a void around the rod
Matt Matt, try this experiment. Go dig a hole in your backyard. Now shoot it with water from your hose. What happens?
Nature compacts the earth again for us. Also, I can assure you that there was still plenty of resistance to the pounding of the rod into the ground even with the hole. There is plenty of ground in contact with the rod and within 2 rain showers that sucker will be in there tighter than anything you could possibly do with power tools.
The real solution to placing ground rods is to live in an area with sandy loam soil like my back yard where the only problem is; If you hit the ground rod too hard during the final foot or so, it'll disappear into the ground and you'll have to dig it out.....
Wouldn't that be amazing?! I have lived in rocky clay soil for so long I don't know what I would do.
Thats a nice problem to have lol. I live where the Brazos used to flow centuries ago. Hard compacted clay all 8 ft. Was a nightmare installing three of these things with a t post driver
Probable 80+ percent of the ground rods I have tested don't come anywhere close to 25 ohms not even two of them tied together. I still use them because they are required by the NEC but you should never count on ground rods to protect you!
Truth!
Over 2 hrs? I wouldn't advice doing this right next to my home's foundation, especially if you live in Florida.
To go a little deeper on mptashkin remarks (which are totally right)...you don't take a bare ground wire from the meter box or panel or sub panel without piping, the correct pipe BY CODE is 1/2 inch rigid pipe until ground surface and PVC SCHEDULE 40 from the surface down to the rod...That the rod is gonna loose copper because you drive it or hammer it?...its BS!!!!...the rod was made and construct to be driven once you drive it you measure it with an electrical meter and should give you no more than 25 ohms...Bottom line....use a 3/4 drill bit 1 foot long and insert the rod and then drive it in with a rotary hammer and a rod cup at least 6 inches bellow surface...PLEASE DO IT THE RIGHT WAY!!!!!
Did you bother reading the disclaimer in the video description? This is for low voltage DC and your NEC codes don't apply. In fact, there is quite a bit of evidence and research that shows that DC systems should not even be earth grounded at all.
Yes, if this was a homeowner installing their own house AC electrical this would not be the correct way to install it. But for HAM radio folks, off grid solar enthusiasts, or a landscape lighting installer this would be a very valid and easy way to install it.
Doesn't matter the application since the purpose is the same. You can claim it's not needed, but then why do it? And if you're going to do it, then it should serve the correct purpose and that would require the same physics of any system using Earth as the return path. High impedance and/or resistance can lead to problems with respect to the ACTUAL building ground by creating grounding loops, etc. STOP giving bad advice when it's apparent you have no expertise in this matter.
It actually violates code to run it through a metalic conduit unless you're using a bonding-bushing at one end. And, the only place any protection is required by code is where it could be mechanically damaged. In my municipality, the grounds must be visible for inspection (not just initial inspection) and anything 6AWG or large never requires protection even from mechanical abrasion.
Richard M l
@@LDSreliance I'm a ham radio operator.
I use extensive grounding for a large grounding for a large low voltage station which is all DC. A properly driven ground rod, is even more important for electronic devices that are running on low voltage, my computer my DC radios, any kind of electric devices. just because it's low voltage doesn't make water jetting okay you're still putting a worthless ground rod in the ground which does apsolutely nothing at all. Please stop telling people to do this. it doesn't matter if it's DC or AC high voltage and low voltage devices connected to the Rod, if you do the way you're doing it, it's completely worthless, as a ground, as a bond, as a lightning path.
like u said its a big mess.
what about new construction there's no water around. Fail inspection (electrical)
This isn't for electricians or anyone who wants to follow electrical code. This is for ham radio operators, solar panel hobbyists, and others who want a direct current ground and do not have access to big, expensive tools to drive the rod into the ground.
Dude, just get the $25 hammer drill from Harbor Freight. Any DIY'er will use it more than once. I question the integrity of your hole. Sorry, had to lol
Go rent a Hilti TE-76 hammer drill. It will take you longer to plug it in than it will to drive it...Plus no water.
Yes, there are power tools available to do this job. It will cost you $39 for 4 hours to rent that tool. You have to drive to go pick it up and you have to drive to go take it back. So if you are talking total time invested, your rental takes more time total. It also costs 4 times more and that is before you factor in the cost of fuel to drive all over.
The purpose of this video was to provide a DIYer an alternate, easy method to drive in a ground rod which is not something you will do every day. It is easy and quick. It is not meant to be the best way or the only way. Obviously if you are a contractor or electrician you are going to do it a better way but don't tell me it will be faster or cheaper.
LDSreliance it's faster and cheaper when you own two sds hammer drills. hire a pro for this stuff.
home made but not meet the code
When electricity flows threw that rod. It then become a hot Rod🌶️🚘. Brrrum brrrum. Chicks dig hot rods.
Wow! You made a mess! Did you say 15-20 min? Looks like I need to make a 3 min install (in real time) video with less than 20oz of water and NO mess!
If you can accomplish the same thing in that time with that much water, I would be all ears. Good luck!
Darwin Bird What's your method for installing a ground rod in 3 minutes with 20oz of water? Does it involve a hammer drill?
I don't know of any professional electricians that would use this method, I think I could do it quicker with a hammer drill, which is easily rented. Most good ham radio station grounding system will have multiple ground rods all tied together and tied back to the main ac service entrance. I don't do it this way, but to each his own.
Yeah, this is definitely not for a professional. This would be for a homeowner or DIYer that almost never has to do something like this and doesn't have the tools to do it the right way. This would be a very easy way to do it. I had to do this twice for my solar panel system and it was so much easier and saved me a bunch of money over running to the hardware store 4 times (pick up and return the drill on two occasions).
how to make a huge mess and a lousy connection in three times the time it would take to hammer it in with a small sledge hammer.
*Provided you have no rocks in your soil and you don't mind having the head of your rod mushroomed flat.
buh
and ..how is that an easy way???
Easier than pounding the end of it with a sledgehammer all morning.
@@LDSrelianceall morning, for 5 minuites, something like that.
this is ground loose enough to shove emt through with water so no chunks of wood or slate or root balls
Anywhere that driving a ground rod can be done with a sledge, this method will work. So why bother?
Why bother using this hydro drilling method? Or why bother using a sledge? I avoided using a sledge for two reasons: my soil has lots of rocks that the sledge method cannot help with and a sledge will mangle the top of the rod and remove some of the copper cladding which can cause the rod not to be an effective ground.
Do not do this. This method is driving ground rods is against every electrical code anywhere in the country.
when you use water to drive a ground rod, and creates a cavity around the ground rod. After the water drains away the rod is completely useless. Most of time you pull a ground rod right out of the dirt with your bare hands, after it's in water jetted . Using a water jetted ground rod, is just throwing a ground rod on top of the ground the ground, it's just as effective. Don't do this, it's dangerous, the ground will be worthless you will cause electrical hazard in the home because you will have no effective bond to ground, on anything in your entire house.
I have being an electrician or 35 years, and never once have I seen a water jetted a ground rod pass a ground rod test.
You see this all the time on TH-cam from people who don't know what they're doing, and when people put it on TH-cam, they put people's life at risk.
DON'T WATER JET GROUND RODS. They are DANGEROUS!
Please come to my house and pull these ground rods out. I have two of them. You clearly have never done this and know nothing about this method.
If you dig a hole in the back yard 5 feet deep and walk away, what happens? Erosion fills in the hole. Same principle here, but it is sped up by massive amounts of water and mud already at play during the process. Are you familiar with quicksand? Same thing happens to these rods. Liquifaction literally sucks the rod in and it is very hard to pull out even when the water is still shooting through the pipe.
There is no way on earth you can get that rod out of the ground.
Perry, you say "after the water drains away the rod is completely useless." That's not a credible statement. It's not as good, but "completely useless" is "completely wrong."
You will never make a living shooting video. hee
Yeah, I didn't have a great way to shoot this one. A tripod wouldn't work that close to the wall. And I don't pretend to be a videographer.
If you're going to be shooting DIY videos for TH-cam, buy a tripod. That's the easy solution for hands free camera management. You can get a cheap one that's good enough for less than $20 from Amazon.
I have one. I appreciate the suggestion but it was not possible to set up a tripod that close to the house. I was trying to get an angle as close to the brick as possible. I understand it was harder to watch but I think my videos have improved since then and I do use a tripod as often as possible.
ahahahaha
What is funny?
This is just dangerous. Get a post driver like a normal electrician and don't try to be CUTE with electrical installations. There's no shortcuts and no easy way out. Drive the damn rod into the ground if you'd like to pass inspection..... Water and electricity DO NOT MIX, so people DO NOT SPRAY YOUR BREAKER PANEL WITH A HOSE!! Removing the dirt to PLACE the rod into the ground defeats the purpose. It should be tightly FORCED into the ground where it should have ZERO wiggle room or play. I should not be able to walk up to your ground rod and move it in the slightest MUCH LESS PULL IT OUT OF THE GROUND!! Save the electrical work for the professionals and DON'T BURN YOUR HOUSE TO THE GROUND!!
Please come over and pull it out of the ground. I'll sign over the title to my car if you can.
1st- buy a tripod. 2nd- your just making a muddy mess. 3rd- find a new job. 4th- sell your camera and computer. 5th- eat a snickers bar. 😉
This video is completely bogus. He hit the footing with the contraption, then doctored the video with fake short rod. Shamefully misdirection.
And why would I do that? If I was that good at video editing would my videos have such average production quality? Where is your proof? Gotta love the drive-by keyboard warrior comments.