Not necessary if you use proper flux, heat and make sure to sweat the seam full. Pre-tinning was invented by east coast architects to combat poor field soldering techniques. Same with "stitching" the seam. None of it is necessary if the work is done properly
The solder is at or above the liquidus temperature within ~1.5 inches of proximity to the iron: if I touched the solder bar to the bare copper there, the solder becomes a liquid, which is what we want
Я не понимаю смысла в такой пайке. Смысл должен быть в том, чтобы олово затекло внутрь фальца, а не было снаружи красивой бесполезной полосой. Требуется слегка разжать фальц, промазать внутри флюсом, разогреть и подать припой в проволоке 2-3 мм диаметром, он сам туда затечёт насколько нужно. Пайка такая называется капиллярной, а расход олова (именно олова, безсвинцового припоя) минимален.
@jadeturt PEOPLE HAVE BEEN SOLDERING ROOFING FOR CENTURIES, from tinning old steel panels tin roof) to todays copper roof whis were very popular in italy and the mediteranian...but for a roof with good fall a seam like standing single or double lock is a little more reliable only cause the work requires less complex work ..the law of averages..
i use hydrochloric acid /spirits of salts with a snip of gal tin as flux i have soldered copper steel stainless steel gal sheet, tractor gas tanks / old water tanks spouting guttering over the years .
I was schooled to pre tin copper at the joint section prior to making the fold for the seam. This ensures a more positive flow of solder into the seam/joint. This is also more inportant when you solder verticle seams. Is this a pratice that you use for solder copper seams?
We have often pre-tinned joints. You can also use a tinning flux, instead of pre-tinning. You can also solder copper without tinning, but pre-tinning or tinning flux will make it more fool-proof.
Do you know if rolled tin is still available for boxgutter and flatlock work anymore. Follensbee was the last known suppler that I used. It is no longer a manufacter of this material.
This video was very helpful to me. I am a detail carpenter who has been recruited from a roofing firm in an effort to heighten the the level of craftsmanship of the roofing crew. I'm on a huge learning curve to say the least. My question is how can I execute this level of mastery on a steep slope roof, with wind, low temps and overall poor conditions? Or should that not be expected? And therefore not be an expected of the client?
You can do it on the roof, or you can make the flashings ahead of time and install them after soldering. Why would you need a phone number? slateroofers.org/members.htm
Im trying to build a piece with 1.2mm sheets. Its just a hobby project and Im by far in no way a trained metal worker, this is just an interest im picking up... Can you tell me how I should form and solder or join the seams on copper that is 1.2mm thick or 18gauge i believe. Needs to be watertight.
Thats the best looking solder joints on youtube. Good form! Respect.
Thanks for the nice comment
Great video and beautifully done soldering.
thanks for the nice comment George
What a pretty joint!
Thanks for the nice comment
What do you use to clean the waxy flux residue on copper afer soldering.
See this article: Soldering Copper Roof Flashings (www.traditionalroofing.com/downloads/TR6_solder.pdf)
You should lay the iron on the seem and wait till the solder draws into the seem!
You could lay it down, but the solder is drawn all the way through the seam using just the tip: the puddle conducts the heat
Third generation sheet metal worker here. I can solder and teach as good as anyone.
Where are you located?
Very nice
great iron control though
You left out the first step of pre tinning
Yes, pre-tinning is recommended. It isn't necessary, but it makes the soldering easier, faster, and more fool-proof.
Not necessary if you use proper flux, heat and make sure to sweat the seam full. Pre-tinning was invented by east coast architects to combat poor field soldering techniques. Same with "stitching" the seam. None of it is necessary if the work is done properly
You don't melt the solder with the iron, you melt it with the copper. This is classic "almost" correct.
Please post a video.
The heat comes from the iron and is conducted by the solder puddle through the seam
The solder is at or above the liquidus temperature within ~1.5 inches of proximity to the iron: if I touched the solder bar to the bare copper there, the solder becomes a liquid, which is what we want
UNPLUG !!!!! torch by itself ???? This isn't plumbing........... SMH !!!
I guess the I'll just solder circles around you and this guy then, especially on vertical joints. I still use an iron for stitching though.
He doesn’t how to do a good soldering
Я не понимаю смысла в такой пайке. Смысл должен быть в том, чтобы олово затекло внутрь фальца, а не было снаружи красивой бесполезной полосой. Требуется слегка разжать фальц, промазать внутри флюсом, разогреть и подать припой в проволоке 2-3 мм диаметром, он сам туда затечёт насколько нужно. Пайка такая называется капиллярной, а расход олова (именно олова, безсвинцового припоя) минимален.
I agree, although some people who solder like the finished job to have a certain appearance. Kind of a "signature" look for them.
Thanks for telling us about the ambient temp requirement on the American Beauty. I just thought I sucked at soldering!
@jadeturt
PEOPLE HAVE BEEN SOLDERING ROOFING FOR CENTURIES, from tinning old steel panels tin roof) to todays copper roof whis were very popular in italy and the mediteranian...but for a roof with good fall a seam like standing single or double lock is a little more reliable only cause the work requires less complex work ..the law of averages..
I really like this “walking” technique with the chisel point tip. You know that seam is sweating all the way back. Looks very nice too.
i use hydrochloric acid /spirits of salts with a snip of gal tin as flux i have soldered copper steel stainless steel gal sheet, tractor gas tanks / old water tanks spouting guttering over the years .
Good job! Very professional way to do . I have 1000 watt soldering iron but not using it the correct way. This is the correct way to do it.
I was schooled to pre tin copper at the joint section prior to making the fold for the seam. This ensures a more positive flow of solder into the seam/joint. This is also more inportant when you solder verticle seams. Is this a pratice that you use for solder copper seams?
We have often pre-tinned joints. You can also use a tinning flux, instead of pre-tinning. You can also solder copper without tinning, but pre-tinning or tinning flux will make it more fool-proof.
Do you know if rolled tin is still available for boxgutter and flatlock work anymore. Follensbee was the last known suppler that I used. It is no longer a manufacter of this material.
I don't know of any source for what used to be Follansbee terne metal. @@forrestcheck-c3q
Full proof is exactly what I like!!!
Nice, like the clean 1" soldered joints. Thats a good trick with the goozle tool recessing the bottom edge of the lap.
Quality!!
nice seams! but dont you have to lace those verticals,and how is that amish guy going to use that electric iron?
Yes ,lace them,but for educational purposes that was left out.
Lacing or stitching the seam is purely cosmetic, and can be used to hide an improperly soldered seam
Man, you need to learn to use a soldering iron. Seriously.
Please post a link to your soldering video so we can learn how to do it correctly.
Good job Chris!
Thanks for making great tools!
This video was very helpful to me. I am a detail carpenter who has been recruited from a roofing firm in an effort to heighten the the level of craftsmanship of the roofing crew. I'm on a huge learning curve to say the least. My question is how can I execute this level of mastery on a steep slope roof, with wind, low temps and overall poor conditions? Or should that not be expected? And therefore not be an expected of the client?
Typically, you would NOT use a soldered seam metal roof on a steep slope. You would use a standing seam or some type of lock seam.
@@jcjenkins01 thanks for the reply.
Nailing copper flashing
Ze z een
Do you do around skylights ON roof if so need phone #
You can do it on the roof, or you can make the flashings ahead of time and install them after soldering. Why would you need a phone number? slateroofers.org/members.htm
He's good.but check out frankch25 he's got the cleanest solder technique...
This is better than Frank because the solder here is being drawn back into the seam. Not as much with Franks.
Im trying to build a piece with 1.2mm sheets. Its just a hobby project and Im by far in no way a trained metal worker, this is just an interest im picking up...
Can you tell me how I should form and solder or join the seams on copper that is 1.2mm thick or 18gauge i believe. Needs to be watertight.
use the torch by itself.... high heat, small area