Great job as always Colin. I have had varying opinions from different printers who tell me p/f/p for your underbase is either totally what they do and I’m wasting my time with a highlight white or they tell me p/f/p for the base is a rookie move and I should never ever in a million years do it again. What’s your take on it? I find I’ve 99% been moving to highlight whites for myself as I find three things can happen really easily: A. The print gets more tacky like what you experienced with it peeling off onto the next colour if it’s too hot or not quite flashed. I find the print is just a bit too thick sometimes. B. The top colour in most cases gets more pitting or speckled areas where the white pokes through and colour is missing unless I use a flattening screen to ensure a perfect 2 layers of white. Plus it has more of a glossy effect on the colours (which if you want gloss I suppose you could just use a flattening screen with teflon on the bottom at the end or a heat press with teflon). C. The registration becomes increasingly more difficult unless the base is undercut enough which for some intricate designs you could lose the base in parts altogether. I find the choke that I used to struggle with when I p/f/p the base (usually a standard .5 choke like you described) is a breeze now. I do understand that you have to be bang on the highlight white and that can be very tough to do so I understand someone who is newer or struggling with registration wanting an easy out to just p/f/p instead. Would love to hear your insights on this. Looking forward to signing up for a class next year! Have a great Christmas and keep up the amazing videos you so graciously share with all of us.
Base white: Only PFP your base if you have colors on top that are very translucent like yellows or fluorescents. OR, if you have a specific need. We all find specific reasons why we may need a pfp white base. BUT - in general you want to NOT pfp your base and work / improve your skills and tools to create a better base white with 1 or two print strokes.
@ I had that yellow/fluorescent issue as well. I found one workaround other than trying to mix some more body into the colours with a custom mix job (I’ve heard some ink mixing systems are better for more of a body to their colours). I simply p/f/p the top colour that needed to be more opaque but there are some instances I could see that not working well. If I wasn’t able to have it be the final colour and another colour was required to trap it there might be too much of an ink wall built up that another colour would have trouble depositing in those sections the print was raised up. Thanks again!
i don't like you sir. You keep coming out with all these cool things you do and got me to even bought a 250 6x4 press... Have a blessed holiday. Looking forward to seeing more of your ideas next year, but knowing you, you going to hit us with something for before the New Year. Blessings to all.
Happy Holidays to everyone! 🎄
Great job man. That looks dope! We appreciate these videos more than you know. ❤
Very cool 🤪
Great job as always Colin.
I have had varying opinions from different printers who tell me p/f/p for your underbase is either totally what they do and I’m wasting my time with a highlight white or they tell me p/f/p for the base is a rookie move and I should never ever in a million years do it again. What’s your take on it? I find I’ve 99% been moving to highlight whites for myself as I find three things can happen really easily:
A. The print gets more tacky like what you experienced with it peeling off onto the next colour if it’s too hot or not quite flashed. I find the print is just a bit too thick sometimes.
B. The top colour in most cases gets more pitting or speckled areas where the white pokes through and colour is missing unless I use a flattening screen to ensure a perfect 2 layers of white. Plus it has more of a glossy effect on the colours (which if you want gloss I suppose you could just use a flattening screen with teflon on the bottom at the end or a heat press with teflon).
C. The registration becomes increasingly more difficult unless the base is undercut enough which for some intricate designs you could lose the base in parts altogether. I find the choke that I used to struggle with when I p/f/p the base (usually a standard .5 choke like you described) is a breeze now. I do understand that you have to be bang on the highlight white and that can be very tough to do so I understand someone who is newer or struggling with registration wanting an easy out to just p/f/p instead.
Would love to hear your insights on this. Looking forward to signing up for a class next year! Have a great Christmas and keep up the amazing videos you so graciously share with all of us.
Base white: Only PFP your base if you have colors on top that are very translucent like yellows or fluorescents. OR, if you have a specific need. We all find specific reasons why we may need a pfp white base.
BUT - in general you want to NOT pfp your base and work / improve your skills and tools to create a better base white with 1 or two print strokes.
@ I had that yellow/fluorescent issue as well. I found one workaround other than trying to mix some more body into the colours with a custom mix job (I’ve heard some ink mixing systems are better for more of a body to their colours).
I simply p/f/p the top colour that needed to be more opaque but there are some instances I could see that not working well. If I wasn’t able to have it be the final colour and another colour was required to trap it there might be too much of an ink wall built up that another colour would have trouble depositing in those sections the print was raised up.
Thanks again!
Great
i don't like you sir. You keep coming out with all these cool things you do and got me to even bought a 250 6x4 press... Have a blessed holiday. Looking forward to seeing more of your ideas next year, but knowing you, you going to hit us with something for before the New Year.
Blessings to all.