Just watched this again. Agree with your comments. I have just made a couple of OO gauge railway plastic wagon kits. The moulds date back to the mid-sixties. They came with the original instructions and original plastic couplings and wheels on the spruce. However the company that owns them now includes a set of ‘corrections and upgrade hints’ plus a little pack with modern metal wheels and couplings. It ain’t rocket science. Many plastic model kits especially the big modern expensive ones will come with an ‘error correction’ sheet detailing changes to a couple of stages, maybe also with a replacement part.
Dear Gary greetings from the Netherlands. Your comment on the quality of the kits is right to the point. In the Netherlands there are sellers who give a quality indication of the kits. For instance the HMS Bounty you can get from about 140 dollar to 440 dollar . The last one is from manufacturer Caldercraft and is absolute top. I don't know who the manufactures is of your model of the bluenose in our country you can get four different kits. For instance Billing Boats have two models of the bluenose a cheap one for about 125 dollar and a model for about 200 dollars. the problem for us as modelmakers is you don't now with kit is the right one. Thank you for sharing with us your experience . Piet Nieuwpoort
Piet Nieuwpoort Not to many model builders do a review after they finish a model. So I search for pictures of finished models and compare what I see. I also search forums to see what people are saying, and one forum recommended Model Shipway as a better model. Sometimes it's hard to come up with $200 for a model knowing your going to spend another $100 for add on's. This is a very nice model once you overcome some problems which I'm sure exist with all kits. Thanks for watching.
Gary: I will have to start uploading photos of my rig but I don't see anything here that allows for uploading photos with my comments. Anyway.......I haven't yet started on my dead eyes and chain plates. I have however finished painting my ship and have also added all the white trim to the hull as well as painting the main railing. I will probably cover up the hull with some thick shipping paper and tape so that I can work on the deck and all the rigging without scratching and messing up the hull. I haven't started on the dead eyes and chain plates yet but I know from experience that it is very exacting work. You seem to have come up with a really good way of making them. I have never approached the problem that way but I will probably use your method because the results look so good.As per what you said about the manufacturers needing to make these models better I couldn't agree with you more even though I have built much more poorly made ships. There's just no reason for it. If they did things right the first time and stayed up on quality control this wouldn't be a problem. These ships can be hard enough to put together but the entire industry seems to have this problem. Sometimes it gets to the point where if I did my own research I could put together a scratch-built ship with less problems. Ed.
Hypergolica1 If you have windows live movie maker go to this web site, th-cam.com/users/TheMeejahChannelvideos. He may have a video that shows how to do what you want. Do everything you need to do in windows movie maker, then (save movie) to (my computer). Then upload that video to you-tube. I had a hell of a time at first too, but nothing to it now. Just finished RE-PAINTING my ship today, you will see why in next video. Be careful putting tape on a fresh paint job for any period of time. You might think about putting a clear coat on you paint job to help protect it. But don't let happen to you what happen to me in next video. Buy a good clear and not the junk I had. I would let that paint job set for about a week or two before messing with it. Your right, give me some pictures and good set of blueprints and I'll build the ship. Thanks for watching.
Hi Gary. I have a problem, and it's probably me. All of your instructions, up to the chain plate, have helped me so much. However, I am unable to drill holes through the brass chain plates. I have tried drill bits purchased from model expo, (and I have a lot of them), and also used a thumbtack as per your recommendation.....all to no avail. Can you please tell me how you did it? I'm sure there is a simple answer, but it is eluding me. Thanks for all of the help!
Randy Cooper I had the same problem at first. The best and I mean best drill bits I have came from Hobby Town. They keep them in a locked case and I bought a container of the smallest mixed bits. I don't know the brand name, there pricey, but they are the best I have, and I have a lot of drill bits. They are even better then Dremel drill bits. Forget going to harbor freight. Now with that being said is was not easy, in-fact I broke two bits pushing to hard. It was a bitch and I got blisters to prove it. I used the best pin-vice I have (holds the drill bit tight and keeps it from being pushed up inside) with the drill bit just sticking out (to much drill bit sticking out and they will snap). The pin-vice I used is in that video. It took some time but you must have good drill bits to start with. It took me a couple days and sometimes I didn't think I was going to get the hole drilled. And did I say your going to get blisters. Good luck
Randy Cooper I just got a comment from someone that said if you heat the brass till it is almost red hot then let it cool down it should make it easier to drill. Worth a try. Comment was on my SMS Dresden build part 3.
That is just great, my kit does not have the 1/8 deadeyes and they are not even listed on the parts list. Yet they are clearly shown on the plans. Clearly something has been changed and updated since you purchased your kit. As you said about having to build all the deck furniture, I have no problem with it either but one thing they omitted is the decorative posts that show on the plans that hold up the rail around the back mast. Sorry but I dont have a lathe and I think it sucks that I have to somehow figure out how to create those without one! These plans and this kit are leaving a bad taste in my mouth and I have emailed them three times now and have not heard back from them in two weeks. THis is the last thing I ever buy from Model Expo!
Calm down, this is what everyone goes through on building wooden ships. This kit is about the best out there. Now with that said I think your talking about the fife rail, I used tooth picks that I think I show in one of my videos. You should have got two sizes of deadeyes, i think they measure 2mm and 4mm. If you didn't get any you have to contact there parts dept. forget e-mail, call them. I ordered extra because I didn't like the laser cut ones. You will find on page 28 the blocks that are substituted for what you got also.
Thanks Gary, I will give them a call tomorrow because I definitely did not get the larger deadeyes. I did get the smaller ones, just not the larger ones. Not sure what they are called, but they are the round poles that go under that laser cut piece that is an elongated half circle. It is the one you punch the holes in for the belay pins. This is in video 20 at 8 minutes where you show that. Did not say if you used tooth picks or not but I probably missed that. Still it shows them on the plans as typical rounded posts that are clearly turned on a lath to get the nice teardrops in them. I found some online I am going to order once I measure and make sure I get the right size. Still things like this should be included. To be honest I built the Bluenose 2 from the kit made by Artesania Latina about 5 years ago and comparing the two kits which are real close in size and price that Bluenose 2 kit was hands down a superior kit in every possible way. Even though it is the sister ship the kit itself totally blows this one from Model Expo out of the water for quality and for accuracy of everything. Thanks for answering my questions by the way, I really do appreciate it...;)
You should try a warship next, this bluenose looks way more complicated with the weird rails and the hull shape. Something like a double deck warship or even ship of the line has a simple hull shape and no funky rail stuff. Plus in the time you spent getting the rail perfect you could have easily done like 50 cannons. I´m doing the galleon San Mateo (constructo) and it seems way easier than the bluenose- Also the plans are very good and clear, no writing on top of writing on top of tiny detail.
Thanks Gary......... I've been working with Photoshop and Adobe Premiere (film editing software) for about 13 years. I have uploaded a few videos onto TH-cam in the past but TH-cam doesn't seem very photo friendly. TH-cam makes uploading videos very easy but apparently not still photos. I just want to upload some photographs but I can't see how. I will check out the link you kindly sent me. I know what a pain in the ass shooting and editing video can be. Adding that to your already existing workload with the ship makes your videos something everybody should and I'm sure do highly appreciate. Thanks........ Ed.
Hypergolica1 It's been a few months since I loaded my still pictures of the Arizona but you just open windows movie maker and drag a picture from your files and your done. But you still have to save it to "my computer" to change the file format that you-tube will accept. I don't know if you can do voice over, haven't tried that yet. Windows movie maker does have it's limitations, but it's simple, free, and get's the job done. I'm running windows 7 and it was already installed on my computer. Watch that guy on the Meeajh Channel, his videos are great and he's very funny. He is using the old version of movie maker that you can still download from microsoft. Hope that helps.
The worker you mentioned probably just said (or thought) "Whatever". Very few people nowadays don't care about their reputation or the quality of work they do. You shouldn't get crap for your money, regardless of the price.
I couldn't agree more Gary! I bought the Bluenose 6 or 7 years ago as my first wooden ship,it was sold as a beginners kit. I would pull it out and stare at it every couple of days and I couldn't even figure out where to start,nothing made sense to me. Then I found the modelshipworld.com with their build logs and helpful members.One of the members posted the instructions for another manufacturer Occre . they had photos , written instructions, and blue prints for each step of the build , it was like a light went off .I have now built a few kits, just finished a two year build of the Apostol Felipe and had so much fun doing it(which I was not having with the bluenose) and after finding your videos have decided to revisit my bluenose and fight my way through. Here is a link that shows the actual ship and chainplates , zoom in and you will notice that they are actually mounted flush with the surface of the hull not on, they are barely noticeable . novascotia.ca/archives/virtual/bluenose/archives.asp?ID=88&Language= It would be a lot of work to achieve that effect . Also remember for later that the flag that comes with "this highly accuarate kit" is not correct, the maple leaf is incorrect for a Canadian flag to start and Canada at this time had the Red Ensign as our flag ,here is a link if you want to order one www.modelflags.com/acatalog/CDN42_CANADA_Red_Ensign.html Keep up the good work enjoying every minute or your videos! Steve
***** Wow...Looked at that picture of chainplate and it does look like they are mounted flush. If not flush, as on the rear set (zoomed in) very very close to it. Yes I picked that up about the maple leaf, in next video, but did not know about the ensign flag. I get all my flags from modelflags.com, best selection out there. Ordered my new flag when I first got the ship, now it looks like I will have to order another. All the research I did and missed these two. Two years on a ship, I could never do that, they would have to take me to the funny farm. Thanks for the info.
I bought my model in Nov of 2006 still working on it, some times it sit for a year or two , lots of head scratching but I’m far form be finished
Excellent. This looks quite daunting for a newbie like myself.
Just watched this again. Agree with your comments. I have just made a couple of OO gauge railway plastic wagon kits. The moulds date back to the mid-sixties. They came with the original instructions and original plastic couplings and wheels on the spruce. However the company that owns them now includes a set of ‘corrections and upgrade hints’ plus a little pack with modern metal wheels and couplings. It ain’t rocket science. Many plastic model kits especially the big modern expensive ones will come with an ‘error correction’ sheet detailing changes to a couple of stages, maybe also with a replacement part.
Say it like it is well done Gary
Dear Gary greetings from the Netherlands.
Your comment on the quality of the kits is right to the point.
In the Netherlands there are sellers who give a quality indication of the kits.
For instance the HMS Bounty you can get from about 140 dollar to 440 dollar .
The last one is from manufacturer Caldercraft and is absolute top.
I don't know who the manufactures is of your model of the bluenose in our country you can get four different kits.
For instance Billing Boats have two models of the bluenose a cheap one for about 125 dollar and a model for about 200 dollars.
the problem for us as modelmakers is you don't now with kit is the right one.
Thank you for sharing with us your experience .
Piet Nieuwpoort
Piet Nieuwpoort Not to many model builders do a review after they finish a model. So I search for pictures of finished models and compare what I see. I also search forums to see what people are saying, and one forum recommended Model Shipway as a better model. Sometimes it's hard to come up with $200 for a model knowing your going to spend another $100 for add on's. This is a very nice model once you overcome some problems which I'm sure exist with all kits. Thanks for watching.
Gary:
I will have to start uploading photos of my rig but I don't see anything here that allows for uploading photos with my comments. Anyway.......I haven't yet started on my dead eyes and chain plates. I have however finished painting my ship and have also added all the white trim to the hull as well as painting the main railing. I will probably cover up the hull with some thick shipping paper and tape so that I can work on the deck and all the rigging without scratching and messing up the hull. I haven't started on the dead eyes and chain plates yet but I know from experience that it is very exacting work. You seem to have come up with a really good way of making them. I have never approached the problem that way but I will probably use your method because the results look so good.As per what you said about the manufacturers needing to make these models better I couldn't agree with you more even though I have built much more poorly made ships. There's just no reason for it. If they did things right the first time and stayed up on quality control this wouldn't be a problem. These ships can be hard enough to put together but the entire industry seems to have this problem. Sometimes it gets to the point where if I did my own research I could put together a scratch-built ship with less problems.
Ed.
Hypergolica1 If you have windows live movie maker go to this web site, th-cam.com/users/TheMeejahChannelvideos. He may have a video that shows how to do what you want. Do everything you need to do in windows movie maker, then (save movie) to (my computer). Then upload that video to you-tube. I had a hell of a time at first too, but nothing to it now.
Just finished RE-PAINTING my ship today, you will see why in next video. Be careful putting tape on a fresh paint job for any period of time. You might think about putting a clear coat on you paint job to help protect it. But don't let happen to you what happen to me in next video. Buy a good clear and not the junk I had. I would let that paint job set for about a week or two before messing with it.
Your right, give me some pictures and good set of blueprints and I'll build the ship. Thanks for watching.
Hi Gary. I have a problem, and it's probably me. All of your instructions, up to the chain plate, have helped me so much. However, I am unable to drill holes through the brass chain plates. I have tried drill bits purchased from model expo, (and I have a lot of them), and also used a thumbtack as per your recommendation.....all to no avail. Can you please tell me how you did it? I'm sure there is a simple answer, but it is eluding me. Thanks for all of the help!
Randy Cooper I had the same problem at first. The best and I mean best drill bits I have came from Hobby Town. They keep them in a locked case and I bought a container of the smallest mixed bits. I don't know the brand name, there pricey, but they are the best I have, and I have a lot of drill bits. They are even better then Dremel drill bits. Forget going to harbor freight. Now with that being said is was not easy, in-fact I broke two bits pushing to hard. It was a bitch and I got blisters to prove it. I used the best pin-vice I have (holds the drill bit tight and keeps it from being pushed up inside) with the drill bit just sticking out (to much drill bit sticking out and they will snap). The pin-vice I used is in that video. It took some time but you must have good drill bits to start with. It took me a couple days and sometimes I didn't think I was going to get the hole drilled. And did I say your going to get blisters. Good luck
Randy Cooper I just got a comment from someone that said if you heat the brass till it is almost red hot then let it cool down it should make it easier to drill. Worth a try. Comment was on my SMS Dresden build part 3.
That is just great, my kit does not have the 1/8 deadeyes and they are not even listed on the parts list. Yet they are clearly shown on the plans. Clearly something has been changed and updated since you purchased your kit.
As you said about having to build all the deck furniture, I have no problem with it either but one thing they omitted is the decorative posts that show on the plans that hold up the rail around the back mast. Sorry but I dont have a lathe and I think it sucks that I have to somehow figure out how to create those without one! These plans and this kit are leaving a bad taste in my mouth and I have emailed them three times now and have not heard back from them in two weeks. THis is the last thing I ever buy from Model Expo!
Calm down, this is what everyone goes through on building wooden ships. This kit is about the best out there. Now with that said I think your talking about the fife rail, I used tooth picks that I think I show in one of my videos. You should have got two sizes of deadeyes, i think they measure 2mm and 4mm. If you didn't get any you have to contact there parts dept. forget e-mail, call them. I ordered extra because I didn't like the laser cut ones. You will find on page 28 the blocks that are substituted for what you got also.
Thanks Gary, I will give them a call tomorrow because I definitely did not get the larger deadeyes. I did get the smaller ones, just not the larger ones.
Not sure what they are called, but they are the round poles that go under that laser cut piece that is an elongated half circle. It is the one you punch the holes in for the belay pins. This is in video 20 at 8 minutes where you show that. Did not say if you used tooth picks or not but I probably missed that. Still it shows them on the plans as typical rounded posts that are clearly turned on a lath to get the nice teardrops in them. I found some online I am going to order once I measure and make sure I get the right size. Still things like this should be included.
To be honest I built the Bluenose 2 from the kit made by Artesania Latina about 5 years ago and comparing the two kits which are real close in size and price that Bluenose 2 kit was hands down a superior kit in every possible way. Even though it is the sister ship the kit itself totally blows this one from Model Expo out of the water for quality and for accuracy of everything.
Thanks for answering my questions by the way, I really do appreciate it...;)
You should try a warship next, this bluenose looks way more complicated with the weird rails and the hull shape. Something like a double deck warship or even ship of the line has a simple hull shape and no funky rail stuff. Plus in the time you spent getting the rail perfect you could have easily done like 50 cannons. I´m doing the galleon San Mateo (constructo) and it seems way easier than the bluenose- Also the plans are very good and clear, no writing on top of writing on top of tiny detail.
Thanks Gary.........
I've been working with Photoshop and Adobe Premiere (film editing software) for about 13 years. I have uploaded a few videos onto TH-cam in the past but TH-cam doesn't seem very photo friendly. TH-cam makes uploading videos very easy but apparently not still photos. I just want to upload some photographs but I can't see how. I will check out the link you kindly sent me. I know what a pain in the ass shooting and editing video can be. Adding that to your already existing workload with the ship makes your videos something everybody should and I'm sure do highly appreciate.
Thanks........
Ed.
Hypergolica1 It's been a few months since I loaded my still pictures of the Arizona but you just open windows movie maker and drag a picture from your files and your done. But you still have to save it to "my computer" to change the file format that you-tube will accept. I don't know if you can do voice over, haven't tried that yet. Windows movie maker does have it's limitations, but it's simple, free, and get's the job done. I'm running windows 7 and it was already installed on my computer. Watch that guy on the Meeajh Channel, his videos are great and he's very funny. He is using the old version of movie maker that you can still download from microsoft. Hope that helps.
The worker you mentioned probably just said (or thought) "Whatever". Very few people nowadays don't care about their reputation or the quality of work they do. You shouldn't get crap for your money, regardless of the price.
I couldn't agree more Gary! I bought the Bluenose 6 or 7 years ago as my first wooden ship,it was sold as a beginners kit. I would pull it out and stare at it every couple of days and I couldn't even figure out where to start,nothing made sense to me. Then I found the modelshipworld.com with their build logs and helpful members.One of the members posted the instructions for another manufacturer Occre . they had photos , written instructions, and blue prints for each step of the build , it was like a light went off .I have now built a few kits, just finished a two year build of the Apostol Felipe and had so much fun doing it(which I was not having with the bluenose) and after finding your videos have decided to revisit my bluenose and fight my way through.
Here is a link that shows the actual ship and chainplates , zoom in and you will notice that they are actually mounted flush with the surface of the hull not on, they are barely noticeable . novascotia.ca/archives/virtual/bluenose/archives.asp?ID=88&Language= It would be a lot of work to achieve that effect . Also remember for later that the flag that comes with "this highly accuarate kit" is not correct, the maple leaf is incorrect for a Canadian flag to start and Canada at this time had the Red Ensign as our flag ,here is a link if you want to order one www.modelflags.com/acatalog/CDN42_CANADA_Red_Ensign.html Keep up the good work enjoying every minute or your videos! Steve
***** Wow...Looked at that picture of chainplate and it does look like they are mounted flush. If not flush, as on the rear set (zoomed in) very very close to it. Yes I picked that up about the maple leaf, in next video, but did not know about the ensign flag. I get all my flags from modelflags.com, best selection out there. Ordered my new flag when I first got the ship, now it looks like I will have to order another. All the research I did and missed these two.
Two years on a ship, I could never do that, they would have to take me to the funny farm. Thanks for the info.