Onya Tim. Excellent content as always. Thanks for pointing out the importance of the bits bucket. I’m forever going round behind picking up the bits and bobs ...not all contractors consider that the cost to the farmer is so much higher down the line when they don’t. Stay safe.
S G, yeah, we could trade. I’ll help you build and you help me build. That’s what neighbors are for. I could even bring my 14 yr. old. He’s a digging machine! How close are you to North Carolina? 😁✈️
Brilliant Mr. Thompson. Thanks for being so clear. When you explain it... it all makes sense. You sure are working in some BEAUTIFUL country. Also... great drone footage!
how would you have done if you hung field fence ?? I understand the wire holding down and holding the frame and the Barbed Wire but would you do with welded wire or field fence?
Must be pretty soft country there. Every time I'm drill holes I have to stop and pull quartz rocks out! On shorter runs where I don't need a post, I just ram a couple of short star pickets at angles and tie them on. It keeps that star picket before the incline from lifting. You can also use your broken star pickets and just put a sharp end back on them. It's a good trick too if the lands a bit boggy and won't keep pickets in the ground. Best of all - no digging! Thanks for the video Tim.
How about the opposite? I have a prominent hill arch that I’m needing to stretch a fence over. The run is only 100m. Any video you could please make and notify me 🙏
Great instructional. I have about a half a dozen dips in my rocky/rooty yard and was wondering how to approach them outside of lashing the wire to a deadman. Thank you!
Great information in this video ,I found that a magnet is a critical piece of equipment as well . The cow magnets used to prevent hardware disease , are an excellent choice when tethered to a line .This allows you to swing or drag it thru the area. Neat and tidy taking up little room in the Ditty Bag~~~
Very useful thanks Tim I've been fencing my own property now that I've Learnt how via your channel. I've also ordered some spiral fast ties to make it a bit easier. Great channel mate.
Thank you. This makes alot of sense. But I don't have pine posts. I need to get the fencestay assembly. I like how that works. Can you tell me please what Auger you are using and blade diameter? Please and thank you. I want to get one in the future for pine posts. But I've seen cheapys on the internet. Wondering if they are just as good as the expensive models which are a pretty penny.
Thanks Tim, another beaut video...would like to see your techniques working with 11 and 13 strand mesh (Stoksafe etc.) Are there tricks that don't use Gripples? Removing vertical stringers to get enough wire for knots very time consuming, also not much room between strands for tying.
Just a quick question. The start of my fence run is on a slope. Do I set up the end assembly following the lay of the land or keep it horizontal. Thanks
In NZ which has steep country we use what is called a foot. A piece of wood rammed in horizontally at the bottom of the post hole then attached to the post with wire before filling in the hole. Much simpler.
Superb, as always. Really helpful. 10 more man points to Mr T. Need to have a think about how to fasten mesh to the fence when the elevation changes. Cheers mate.
Interesting concept I've never seen before, we generally try to go deep, most valley strainers we try to get in the ground minimum 1500mm aposed to 1100mm on straight runs or ram in a footer. Mind you it's easier with our machinery. If it's steep I always use a double box assembly like you do.
@@FarmLearningTim - hell I wish, billiard ball size everywhere about 1 foot down, scattered bigger chunks of granite up to bowling ball sized. I put in 12 posts today using a posthole digger, big iron bar, and a sledge hammer. Every post hole was a rock garden. 😆
You can also drive a star picket at 30-45 degrees at the pinchpoint all the way into the ground. Then attach it to each wire. There is a few videos with this technique. you wont see the star pickett since its driven all the way in
Great video as usual. But how do you keep long grass or weeds out of and along the fence line and specially on a horse type fence. what kind of spray packs do you use manual or electric or battery operated backpack? I have not seen a video on that
Question Tim, The post set on the slope was set vertical corresponding to a plumb bob. Why did you not set it vertical according to the slope of the land?
Another great and very helpful video. Slowly fencing 40 undulating acres into paddocks, the rocky terrain in a nightmare to dig. With regards to the tamping what is considered enough? We try and get the post holes to 600mm, I find that I can tamp to where the post is stable and come back the next day or strain the fence and the posts move, what do we need to do to overcome this?
My Dad always said to tamp the bottom of the post the most . Pee gravel also works well to put and tamp in the hole . Dad also said you had to put back all the dirt back in the hole .
I have a question regarding the depth you plant your poles at. Looks to be about 75cm to 1m depth? Do all poles get planted at the same depth? Also, is it important that the wire loop holding the center pole down, is not crossed over? Thank you very much for the fencing videos. I have learned a tremendous amount already and made use of a lot of the information already.
Seen many of those assemblies, knocked sideways by cattle. especially in soft ground, in steep dips we foot posts, and peg them , with S/S wire, hard wood pegs, where we cant use post rammer.
G'day Tim, great work. You're videos have helped a great deal, that's for sure! Had a q regarding the external strainers, in particular regarding the wire used to anchor the centre strainer. Did you drill holes in the external posts to run the wire, or did you just use a 50mm barbed staple to keep the wire in place?
we use plants thats help hold the wire. so basically a living post. they're easy to cut down (no emotional stress) as theyre mainly grown for that purpose list if ever someone is looking for -madre de cacao (leaves and wood are very useful) -malabago (my personal favorite. good only for shade) -moringga can also be used prop method: cuttings
Thoroughly enjoyed this vid as well Tim. I have to stop watching these, as I'm building way too large of a tool list ..... Wife's gonna kill me when I buy it all :(
Cheers Tim, great video. I have just about finished fencing off 4 acres for some sheep. I've never done any fencing before and everything I know I've learnt from you - end assemblies, straining, mesh, the lot. And it's looking great so far! I'm a kiwi in the UK and my main gripe is the complete lack of star pickets here 😮 I just bought some Daveles post made in NZ from a distributor here and they were brilliant.
I wish I could auger fence post with a hand auger ! I require bobcat skid steer w/ rock auger, iron digger, multiple types of sledgehammers, post hole hand diggers and in some cases hilti sds max hammer drill and a touch of dynamite 🧨 helps.
In my gully's, all I did was go to the bottom apex of the gully and plant a strainer post and tie the wire off in both directions . No lift on the bottom post then, its just a normal fence pull
Gloves make a fiddly job even more so. So, there’s a trade off: added dexterity with the adventure of a little danger vs. harder to work the wire and let your gloves take some of the beating. For me it usually plays out as starting off with gloves on only to use my teeth to pull one or both off when things get frustrating, then shoving them back on when a barb snags me pretty good and draws some blood. Maybe he forgoes the gloves to prevent all that distraction from the education-laced videoing?? Just my two cents worth
Mmm, this fencing across a gully may be OK in some locations, but skinny posts set into three foot deep holes in soft dirt and backfilled with soft dirt is not going to cut it in places where floodwater flow after heavy rains. The gullies have eroded because of fast-flowing water in the past, so flooding and associated debri will make short work out of a fence that has weakness in its construction. But, in areas where heavy rainfall is a rarity lighter duty fences may be fine for years, especially if they have a section designed to move with the flow of water at the lowest level.👍 PS I have fences that have handled serious foods, including one section of boundary fence I replaced a few years ago getting under meters of fast flowing water with debri and only suffered minor damage. If I had relied on skinny strainer posts and ordinary starpickets the whole fence section would have been destroyed.😭 But, not everyone need, or want to build their fences extra tough as it take more effort, and cost more in material, and obviously you know that because you cater to the majoriety who just want a fence to do its job well, and if a big flood wipe it out they will just replace it.🙄 Regards Niels.
No water flow in this gully. Interestingly had record rains on this property over last two years. Nearby fences where we had not done this pulled 4-5 foot out of the ground (see here th-cam.com/video/QPRGD6kivGg/w-d-xo.html ). Interestingly, the gully fence in this video was fine. Stayed put. It's not always the size of the post, it's how you use it..... Hahaha
Men I like what you done in this gully but I have fixed many miles of fense as the ramrod on a 20,000 acere Ranch I set two semi load of posts in one year most repairs but a few miles of new fenses too. We allways just use what we call dead men when fensesing a gully. It is faster and will always hold if you do it right. depending on the gully you have to cross it useilly only takes two dead men. I have seen dead men that have been in the ground for over 50 years and still hold. Darrell Dawson
Onya Tim. Excellent content as always. Thanks for pointing out the importance of the bits bucket. I’m forever going round behind picking up the bits and bobs ...not all contractors consider that the cost to the farmer is so much higher down the line when they don’t. Stay safe.
I don't even have a gully on my property and I still enjoyed watching this come to fruition. Excellent information as always.
S G, I’ve got gullies to spare. Want some of mine to practice on?
fomoco300k haha no I quite enjoy my flat land. But if you want to build me a couple kms of fence I’d appreciate it.
i dont even own land and i enjoyed watching 😅
S G, yeah, we could trade. I’ll help you build and you help me build. That’s what neighbors are for. I could even bring my 14 yr. old. He’s a digging machine! How close are you to North Carolina? 😁✈️
It must be so warm and fuzzy to be able to just drill a hole in soft earth. Very lucky.
Brilliant Mr. Thompson. Thanks for being so clear. When you explain it... it all makes sense. You sure are working in some BEAUTIFUL country. Also... great drone footage!
Onya Tim, I’ve been procrastinating and pondering about how to repair my gully’s. Cheers, this sets me up nicely.
Brilliant! I’ve been struggling with this very problem on one end of my field here in Tennessee. Simple, efficient solution - Thanks friend!
how would you have done if you hung field fence ?? I understand the wire holding down and holding the frame and the Barbed Wire but would you do with welded wire or field fence?
Must be pretty soft country there. Every time I'm drill holes I have to stop and pull quartz rocks out! On shorter runs where I don't need a post, I just ram a couple of short star pickets at angles and tie them on. It keeps that star picket before the incline from lifting. You can also use your broken star pickets and just put a sharp end back on them. It's a good trick too if the lands a bit boggy and won't keep pickets in the ground. Best of all - no digging!
Thanks for the video Tim.
I have exactly the same situation with the new fence I'm putting in thanks for the tip brilliant idea.
Hurray!! Another problem solving (and fun to watch) Saturday morning video from Tim Thompson! Thanks, Tim.
How about the opposite? I have a prominent hill arch that I’m needing to stretch a fence over. The run is only 100m. Any video you could please make and notify me 🙏
Great instructional. I have about a half a dozen dips in my rocky/rooty yard and was wondering how to approach them outside of lashing the wire to a deadman. Thank you!
Friggin’ brilliant and nicely produced video too. Way to go Tim
Great information in this video ,I found that a magnet is a critical piece of equipment as well . The cow magnets used to prevent hardware disease , are an excellent choice when tethered to a line .This allows you to swing or drag it thru the area. Neat and tidy taking up little room in the Ditty Bag~~~
Excellent again thank you for sharing your tips and experience
I happen to be dealing with multiple inclines myself right now. Great content Tim. I’ll be following you!
Very useful thanks Tim I've been fencing my own property now that I've Learnt how via your channel. I've also ordered some spiral fast ties to make it a bit easier. Great channel mate.
Thank you. This makes alot of sense. But I don't have pine posts. I need to get the fencestay assembly. I like how that works. Can you tell me please what Auger you are using and blade diameter? Please and thank you. I want to get one in the future for pine posts. But I've seen cheapys on the internet. Wondering if they are just as good as the expensive models which are a pretty penny.
How deep are those posts in the ground?
Just the best instructional videos, thank you Tim.
Thanks Tim, another beaut video...would like to see your techniques working with 11 and 13 strand mesh (Stoksafe etc.) Are there tricks that don't use Gripples? Removing vertical stringers to get enough wire for knots very time consuming, also not much room between strands for tying.
Cheers Tim some great advice as usual!
Just a quick question. The start of my fence run is on a slope. Do I set up the end assembly following the lay of the land or keep it horizontal. Thanks
Normally follow the lay of the land mate
@@FarmLearningTim Tim, straight to the point. Advice gratefully received. Thanks
I can’t believe I missed this video!!! GREAT VIDEO! Thanks You!!
In NZ which has steep country we use what is called a foot. A piece of wood rammed in horizontally at the bottom of the post hole then attached to the post with wire before filling in the hole. Much simpler.
Very nice! Could you explain how to know which posts will pull up out of the ground, why does that happen?
The one in the bottom of the dip. Because the strained wire pulls up on it.
Great tips as usual Tim. Cheers!
What kind of fence post puller are using?
Superb, as always. Really helpful. 10 more man points to Mr T. Need to have a think about how to fasten mesh to the fence when the elevation changes. Cheers mate.
Your videos are so informative & helpful. Please some extra videos using steel posts ! Thank you for your awesome content
Interesting concept I've never seen before, we generally try to go deep, most valley strainers we try to get in the ground minimum 1500mm aposed to 1100mm on straight runs or ram in a footer. Mind you it's easier with our machinery. If it's steep I always use a double box assembly like you do.
How well do those augers handle stones in the soil?
Depends on the size. Gravel fine. Larger you’ll need a bar and some muscle.
@@FarmLearningTim - hell I wish, billiard ball size everywhere about 1 foot down, scattered bigger chunks of granite up to bowling ball sized. I put in 12 posts today using a posthole digger, big iron bar, and a sledge hammer. Every post hole was a rock garden. 😆
Hey Tim can you please explain what a gut strain is I can't find anything on google?
Straining in the middle of a fence. I’m doing it in this weeks video and I’ll be sure to point it out.
Excellent info Tim. Never built a fence but always wondered how they stopped those bottom posts from pulling out under strain
You can also drive a star picket at 30-45 degrees at the pinchpoint all the way into the ground. Then attach it to each wire. There is a few videos with this technique. you wont see the star pickett since its driven all the way in
Swinging foot, fixed foot underground would have been much more simple. Wire has to be underground though or it will rot.
Great video as usual. But how do you keep long grass or weeds out of and along the fence line and specially on a horse type fence. what kind of spray packs do you use manual or electric or battery operated backpack? I have not seen a video on that
Hi mate. I use roundup. Sprayer depends on amount you plan on doing.
This is a great idea!
Question Tim, The post set on the slope was set vertical corresponding to a plumb bob. Why did you not set it vertical according to the slope of the land?
Bob was more "friendlier" than the slope.
Can’t believe how interesting I find this fence erecting stuff
Another great and very helpful video. Slowly fencing 40 undulating acres into paddocks, the rocky terrain in a nightmare to dig. With regards to the tamping what is considered enough? We try and get the post holes to 600mm, I find that I can tamp to where the post is stable and come back the next day or strain the fence and the posts move, what do we need to do to overcome this?
1m deep.
2 inches at a time.
Use a crow bar with heavyhead on it.
Chuck some rocks in as u go and smash them hard son.
My Dad always said to tamp the bottom of the post the most . Pee gravel also works well to put and tamp in the hole . Dad also said you had to put back all the dirt back in the hole .
Too good Tim 👍🏾🙂
I have a question regarding the depth you plant your poles at. Looks to be about 75cm to 1m depth? Do all poles get planted at the same depth? Also, is it important that the wire loop holding the center pole down, is not crossed over?
Thank you very much for the fencing videos. I have learned a tremendous amount already and made use of a lot of the information already.
Thank you for your replies.
Amazing as always mate thanks
Seen many of those assemblies, knocked sideways by cattle. especially in soft ground, in steep dips we foot posts, and peg them , with S/S wire, hard wood pegs, where we cant use post rammer.
G'day Tim, great work. You're videos have helped a great deal, that's for sure! Had a q regarding the external strainers, in particular regarding the wire used to anchor the centre strainer. Did you drill holes in the external posts to run the wire, or did you just use a 50mm barbed staple to keep the wire in place?
Love your videos!
Tim what can we do dispose small or large bits of wire ?
Tip..
Recyclers
How deep did ya put the posts in
Say 25 mm
Hi Tim how are you mate great video mate stay safe out there
we use plants thats help hold the wire. so basically a living post.
they're easy to cut down (no emotional stress) as theyre mainly grown for that purpose
list if ever someone is looking for
-madre de cacao (leaves and wood are very useful)
-malabago (my personal favorite. good only for shade)
-moringga can also be used
prop method: cuttings
Great tips. Where are you based?
Thoroughly enjoyed this vid as well Tim.
I have to stop watching these, as I'm building way too large of a tool list ..... Wife's gonna kill me when I buy it all :(
Agreed 100%!
Hi Tim can you do a run on flood gates and or creek crossing
Piece of tin for flap.
Cheers Tim, great video. I have just about finished fencing off 4 acres for some sheep. I've never done any fencing before and everything I know I've learnt from you - end assemblies, straining, mesh, the lot. And it's looking great so far! I'm a kiwi in the UK and my main gripe is the complete lack of star pickets here 😮 I just bought some Daveles post made in NZ from a distributor here and they were brilliant.
Another interesting video Tim. Sure was a windy day out in the paddock. Your beard flew off half way through filming...
Interesting method
Worth the bit of extra effort
Nice! Music is not required, it blew my ears off when it started...
I wish I could auger fence post with a hand auger ! I require bobcat skid steer w/ rock auger, iron digger, multiple types of sledgehammers, post hole hand diggers and in some cases hilti sds max hammer drill and a touch of dynamite 🧨 helps.
Check out the Thor post driver video I did a month or so back
Another excellent video. I always learn something. I could have done without the music tho
In my gully's, all I did was go to the bottom apex of the gully and plant a strainer post and tie the wire off in both directions .
No lift on the bottom post then, its just a normal fence pull
Just wondering why in the interest of H & S Tim chooses not to wear gloves when working with barbed wire
That's what I thought as well!
Gloves make a fiddly job even more so. So, there’s a trade off: added dexterity with the adventure of a little danger vs. harder to work the wire and let your gloves take some of the beating. For me it usually plays out as starting off with gloves on only to use my teeth to pull one or both off when things get frustrating, then shoving them back on when a barb snags me pretty good and draws some blood. Maybe he forgoes the gloves to prevent all that distraction from the education-laced videoing??
Just my two cents worth
@@fomoco300k agreed.
I never wear gloves as the barb catches on them.
Mmm, this fencing across a gully may be OK in some locations, but skinny posts set into three foot deep holes in soft dirt and backfilled with soft dirt is not going to cut it in places where floodwater flow after heavy rains. The gullies have eroded because of fast-flowing water in the past, so flooding and associated debri will make short work out of a fence that has weakness in its construction. But, in areas where heavy rainfall is a rarity lighter duty fences may be fine for years, especially if they have a section designed to move with the flow of water at the lowest level.👍
PS I have fences that have handled serious foods, including one section of boundary fence I replaced a few years ago getting under meters of fast flowing water with debri and only suffered minor damage. If I had relied on skinny strainer posts and ordinary starpickets the whole fence section would have been destroyed.😭
But, not everyone need, or want to build their fences extra tough as it take more effort, and cost more in material, and obviously you know that because you cater to the majoriety who just want a fence to do its job well, and if a big flood wipe it out they will just replace it.🙄
Regards Niels.
No water flow in this gully. Interestingly had record rains on this property over last two years. Nearby fences where we had not done this pulled 4-5 foot out of the ground (see here th-cam.com/video/QPRGD6kivGg/w-d-xo.html ). Interestingly, the gully fence in this video was fine. Stayed put. It's not always the size of the post, it's how you use it..... Hahaha
Ingenious
good!
👍👍👍.
We gut gullies but granite rock a plenty, trust me you have to be inventive if you can’t drill into it
Coey-Close
Why is the guy digging soil to fill the hole at 3:50..
When you have enough from the hole u dug
Men I like what you done in this gully but I have fixed many miles of fense as the ramrod on a 20,000 acere Ranch I set two semi load of posts in one year most repairs but a few miles of new fenses too. We allways just use what we call dead men when fensesing a gully. It is faster and will always hold if you do it right. depending on the gully you have to cross it useilly only takes two dead men. I have seen dead men that have been in the ground for over 50 years and still hold. Darrell Dawson
Not concerned about hardware disease a such as stray metal affecting my metal detector when I'm hunting gold.
Haja
That would turn into a bloody big mess every time it flooded where I come from , that's a valley not a gully 🤣
That’s why there’s more than one solution. You might be surprised to find out that this survived record rainfall just last year.