Hi. Thank you for the nice video. I am trying to replace the seal on my GS 650 forks but I cannot get the bottom screw off, it keeps on turning forever. Could you please help me on this issue? Thanks
You can pull the inner tube upward to tense the pipe inside up.That will hold the bolt tensed and you can unlock it to CCW. Turning forever means that your twist to CCW is not unlock the bolt and is turning the bolt and pipe together.
another trick is to get a broomstick handle, taper one end with a knife, stick it down the tube and tap it down lightly with a hammer so its wedged in the top of the tube the screw is in, then hold the broom handle to stop it turning while you undo the bolt
Guys I think I should point this important fact out - when installing new seals/bushing cover the upper part of the tube in some rubber material (I think condoms are good for this no kidding) -> when not doing this the sharp edge of the tube can damage those seals so all the effort would be for nothing !!!
Glad to see you not doing what I'm not going to do, that is, not take the upper part of the fork apart - there's no need (although lots of other videos do it)!
ya we would. Looking like I am not going to be able to fly to the UK this year bud, was really looking at making this happen but now all my plans are canceled. And I'm sick again- really sucks
Great video. I reassembled my fork after installing new oil and seals and the fork is completely stiff now! Not good! Not sure what's going on but I think I may have installed the bushing that sits under the seal incorrectly...
Did you use the correct oil Viscosity. Could be a mechanical issue as you mentioned. I would take it apart and inspect all. I know it sucks but better safe than sorry, as they say. Good luck.
any chance you had to deal with the fork support bracket one of the bolts being red loctighted in , rear right one , that also has the wire cable guard , if so torch ? /
@@TechnMoto seems if I had looked at the bottom that bracket I would have seen that the bolt goes completely through and a nut with holds the wire retaining bracket for the frt abs sensor cable and the brake cable , the replacement lower mud flap , the front was too close to the tire , the original had a hole worn through , so I shined up with washers , and hunted downn a 8mmx70x1,25 socket head bolt that felt with washers
@@TechnMoto Hi, thx for your video - it gave me self confident to do it :) I didn't find the bottom bolt torque in the repair manual ... Only the drain one is mentioned. Do you remember it ?
@@katmarana Front forks Fork stabiliser to fork leg 21 Clamp screws for fork bridges, top/bottom 21 Plate for bottom fork bridge to fork bridge 9 Oil drain plug 6 Damper retaining screw 20 Knurled nut/bearing preload 25 Locknut at upper fork bridge 65 All in NM for torque specs this is what it says in my manual
![[Live] : ONE 168 วันนี้!! "โจนาธาน vs ซุปเปอร์เล็ก"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0jIN65KgJsI/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi. Thank you for the nice video. I am trying to replace the seal on my GS 650 forks but I cannot get the bottom screw off, it keeps on turning forever. Could you please help me on this issue? Thanks
Find a impact wrench. Works every time
@@TechnMoto Thank you very much. I managed to get them out just like you said.
Glad I could help
You can pull the inner tube upward to tense the pipe inside up.That will hold the bolt tensed and you can unlock it to CCW. Turning forever means that your twist to CCW is not unlock the bolt and is turning the bolt and pipe together.
another trick is to get a broomstick handle, taper one end with a knife, stick it down the tube and tap it down lightly with a hammer so its wedged in the top of the tube the screw is in, then hold the broom handle to stop it turning while you undo the bolt
You make it look easy. Nice work area. That makes a difference. Thanks for sharing.
thanks
Guys I think I should point this important fact out - when installing new seals/bushing cover the upper part of the tube in some rubber material (I think condoms are good for this no kidding) -> when not doing this the sharp edge of the tube can damage those seals so all the effort would be for nothing !!!
Nice tip.
Glad to see you not doing what I'm not going to do, that is, not take the upper part of the fork apart - there's no need (although lots of other videos do it)!
Thanks?
Wish I lived next door to you, we'd have so much fun tinkering with our bikes , stay safe 😷😷👍
ya we would. Looking like I am not going to be able to fly to the UK this year bud, was really looking at making this happen but now all my plans are canceled. And I'm sick again- really sucks
@@TechnMoto just get well Mike, & stay safe
@@geoffozevans4500 thanks bro I'm really trying but being exposed literally daily is making it difficult, may god help us all
😷😷👍👍
Nice Project, it will keep you busy during all this mess we have going. Air Tools are sweet to have! Be Safe out there👌👍
thanks bro
@@TechnMoto No Problem!
You definitely have more skills than I have buddy, nicely done 😃👍
motogspot I’m sure you too can do this but thanks
Great video. I reassembled my fork after installing new oil and seals and the fork is completely stiff now! Not good! Not sure what's going on but I think I may have installed the bushing that sits under the seal incorrectly...
Did you use the correct oil Viscosity. Could be a mechanical issue as you mentioned. I would take it apart and inspect all. I know it sucks but better safe than sorry, as they say. Good luck.
I think changing the fork oil is one of the things most neglected by so many. I have seen some really stinky oil coming out, no thicker than water!
OldManTony easiest thing to change but I think your right, most don’t, take care buddy
سپاس کاکو
thanks
any chance you had to deal with the fork support bracket one of the bolts being red loctighted in , rear right one , that also has the wire cable guard , if so torch ?
/
No I had no problems with those. See my other comment.
@@TechnMoto seems if I had looked at the bottom that bracket I would have seen that the bolt goes completely through and a nut with holds the wire retaining bracket for the frt abs sensor cable and the brake cable , the replacement lower mud flap , the front was too close to the tire , the original had a hole worn through , so I shined up with washers , and hunted downn a 8mmx70x1,25 socket head bolt that felt with washers
Would this be the same procedure for a 2012 g650gs sertao?
Not sure but I would think it may be almost the same.
Hey Mike when did you join the BMW squad ....
Ryan Woodman end of last year when I bought the bike. Did a video on it
What part of the video did he put the oil in and how much?
th-cam.com/video/eHPMRYuxhsA/w-d-xo.html
At 5:20
@@TechnMoto Thanks!!
Were you able to find the torque specs?
Sure, specs should be in the manual
@@TechnMoto Hi, thx for your video - it gave me self confident to do it :) I didn't find the bottom bolt torque in the repair manual ... Only the drain one is mentioned. Do you remember it ?
@@katmarana Front forks
Fork stabiliser to fork leg 21
Clamp screws for fork bridges, top/bottom 21
Plate for bottom fork bridge to fork bridge 9
Oil drain plug 6
Damper retaining screw 20
Knurled nut/bearing preload 25
Locknut at upper fork bridge 65
All in NM for torque specs
this is what it says in my manual
@@TechnMoto Thanks a lot ! all your videos on the F650 GS are really helpful 👍
Where is your favorite place to order parts?
JP Cycles, Amazon, EBay in that order. Last would be dealerships