very very clear and informative video,,,,id never seen any of this and neeeeded it badly!!!Thanks for all these videos,,,i just purchased 3 a couple of weeks ago at the southern store and need to learn what to do!!! And above all,,,what not to do,,,thanks
Maybe I'm wrong but aren't the gear teeth in the aperture supposed to "match" the lock bar? How can you have coarse or fine teeth on one but not on the other? I would think they come in a "set". Can you explain??
The first style lock bar used the existing thread found with the flush nut. They realized the pinion shaft was too short and lengthen it but with the same threads. The third, and last lockbar, the length of shaft was long again but the thread pitch was changed. So not all lockbars match the pinion.
hello, been watching all your videos and they are very good. I am thinking on finding a lock bar and adding it to my rifle. Is this an item that is low on the priority list if I wanted to make my Garand "correct" and maybe better to just have it rather than install it? I have a few Garands and only got them to shoot, but last month I was at the North Store and got a Feb 1944 that had everything original but stock, trigger group, bolt, front hand guard and the rear site items. Had uncut op rod, etc. that were correct.
It is your preference. Personally they are cheap enough to buy on eBay and easy to install. If the serial number puts it in WWII then maybe it can be 1 of your rifles with that feature.
@@norwich93CMP thanks. not sure I follow your serial number comment. I said the wrong year above, it is a Jan 1945. the Feb 44 is my other rifle. USriflecal30M1.com says for Jan 45: Locking bar, long pinion, 8-36NF thread, with squared ends and squared binding ridges.
As I may have mentioned earlier, I am new to these rifles. Mine does not have a lock bar. Purpose is what? do you need a different windage knob? ETC. Thank you for your time sir.
I have this same dear sight, and the windage knob moves left and right nicely if i loosen the lock bar by two clicks. but the elevation knob makes no audible clicks... it moves up and down, but no clicks, which makes zeroing tough. any advice?
Type III is post-war, your SN is in late WWII. It should have a Lock Bar with squared ends, -36NF threads. This is a type 2C according to Poyer, page 42.
It should but sometimes the ridges and peaks are worn. If so it may not work well. Usually you tighten all the way down and back off 1 or 2 clicks. This allows the windage knob to take up on the spring slack and still turn, just take some heavy turning.
I put a lock bar sight on my M1, I've yet to shoot the rifle, when I move the rear sight to the right I'm getting audible clicks, but moving it to the left, the windage knob is backing off the pinion and the sight is moving erratically with no audible clicks, I'm going to assume I did something wrong?
Moving to the left (either the sight base or the windage) condenses the spring in the knob if the lock bar stays still and should lock at one point. Moving it right should relieve the tension and create gentler clicks because you are create slack in the length of the pinion.
Unscrew like normal. But beware it maybe really tight or rusted up. I recommend doing this on the gun screwed all the way counterclockwise wise before trying a tight fitting screwdriver on the the cap's screw. Pretreat with a penetrating type oil or spray too after cleaning well. If you get it out really clean the inner portions not accessible when assembled.
All of your videos have been invaluable to me. Thank you for doing these!
Great, thank you for the compliment.
Just what I needed to understand my Garand rear sight, thanks.
Glad it worked for you!
Extremely helpful to make my old Winchester look right again!
Excellent!!!
very very clear and informative video,,,,id never seen any of this and neeeeded it badly!!!Thanks for all these videos,,,i just purchased 3 a couple of weeks ago at the southern store and need to learn what to do!!! And above all,,,what not to do,,,thanks
Glad it was helpful for you. If you need any particular help you can always e-mail.
I can't wait to install my Type II lock bar rear sight on my Jan 44 Garand. Great video will be a big help.
Great! Glad it helped!!
I had no idea removing the cap on the elevation knop to line it up at 100, the videos I seen to battle zero never mentioned that.
Glad you had new information!
Maybe I'm wrong but aren't the gear teeth in the aperture supposed to "match" the lock bar? How can you have coarse or fine teeth on one but not on the other? I would think they come in a "set". Can you explain??
The first style lock bar used the existing thread found with the flush nut. They realized the pinion shaft was too short and lengthen it but with the same threads. The third, and last lockbar, the length of shaft was long again but the thread pitch was changed. So not all lockbars match the pinion.
hello, been watching all your videos and they are very good. I am thinking on finding a lock bar and adding it to my rifle. Is this an item that is low on the priority list if I wanted to make my Garand "correct" and maybe better to just have it rather than install it? I have a few Garands and only got them to shoot, but last month I was at the North Store and got a Feb 1944 that had everything original but stock, trigger group, bolt, front hand guard and the rear site items. Had uncut op rod, etc. that were correct.
It is your preference. Personally they are cheap enough to buy on eBay and easy to install. If the serial number puts it in WWII then maybe it can be 1 of your rifles with that feature.
@@norwich93CMP thanks. not sure I follow your serial number comment. I said the wrong year above, it is a Jan 1945. the Feb 44 is my other rifle. USriflecal30M1.com says for Jan 45: Locking bar, long pinion, 8-36NF thread, with squared ends and squared binding ridges.
As I may have mentioned earlier, I am new to these rifles. Mine does not have a lock bar. Purpose is what? do you need a different windage knob? ETC. Thank you for your time sir.
Use this video. th-cam.com/video/ovrAzjrqPDs/w-d-xo.html
I have this same dear sight, and the windage knob moves left and right nicely if i loosen the lock bar by two clicks. but the elevation knob makes no audible clicks... it moves up and down, but no clicks, which makes zeroing tough. any advice?
Try removing the elevation cap and cleaning the inside and the matting surface of the pinion. Ensure the screw is tight once you're done.
Would a type 2 or 3 be correct for a Springfield with a 288xxxx serial number? I found some places say type 2 and some say type 3?
Type III is post-war, your SN is in late WWII. It should have a Lock Bar with squared ends, -36NF threads. This is a type 2C according to Poyer, page 42.
Very helpful! Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
does the lock bar also lock the elevation knob to where you can't make quick sight adjustments or not
It should but sometimes the ridges and peaks are worn. If so it may not work well. Usually you tighten all the way down and back off 1 or 2 clicks. This allows the windage knob to take up on the spring slack and still turn, just take some heavy turning.
norwich93CMP thanks alot
I put a lock bar sight on my M1, I've yet to shoot the rifle, when I move the rear sight to the right I'm getting audible clicks, but moving it to the left, the windage knob is backing off the pinion and the sight is moving erratically with no audible clicks, I'm going to assume I did something wrong?
Moving to the left (either the sight base or the windage) condenses the spring in the knob if the lock bar stays still and should lock at one point. Moving it right should relieve the tension and create gentler clicks because you are create slack in the length of the pinion.
How do you remove the elevation knob screw off the elevation drum/knob?
Unscrew like normal. But beware it maybe really tight or rusted up. I recommend doing this on the gun screwed all the way counterclockwise wise before trying a tight fitting screwdriver on the the cap's screw. Pretreat with a penetrating type oil or spray too after cleaning well. If you get it out really clean the inner portions not accessible when assembled.
@@norwich93CMP thanks. I used WD-40 to loosen it up.
Thank you
You're welcome
I got the lock bar on my December 1940 Springfield last night. With your help.
Nice!!!!
awesome video thank you
I kept cutting my thumb on the bar so I went back to the newer style.