Wanna know what drives me nuts about the videos? I've never fully understood these steps and I've watched loads of videos. I finally find these ones and I get it! Your explanations are perfect for a person like me to get. Thanks!
Man I used to struggle a lot with this, I just realized that I never understood the process, and it is easy now that you explained that way, thanks a lot, great videos
I want to clarify something for those who want to better understand why you lengthen the string when the fretted note is sharp and shorten the string when the fretted note is flat, because it has nothing to do with string tension. Doubling the frequency of a note increases the note by one octave, which is why the 12th fret is exactly 1/2 way between the nut and bridge, and why the 24th fret (on a bass that has one) is exactly 1/2 way between the 12th fret and bridge. From a practical standpoint, what this means is that if the distance from the bridge to the 12th fret is different than the distance from the 12th fret to the nut (or, in other words, that the 12th fret isn't exactly 1/2 way between the nut and bridge), each fretted note, which is at a fixed position set by the manufacturer when the bass is built, will be proportionately out of tune. If the 12th fret note played is sharp, the bridge-to-12th fret length is shorter than the 12th fret-to-nut length, so the saddle has to be moved farther away from the nut to increase the bridge-to-12th fret length, to get that ratio back to 50-50, and vice-versa. Note that string thickness and other factors change the math a little bit, but it doesn't change the reasoning why we have to move bridge saddles forward or backward. I hope this helps!
Another great video Jason! Thanks for the refresher course! I was taught to play the harmonic at the 12 th fret I can't wait to get my new strings tomorrow and out this to work!
All your videos are fantastic and a great educational experience regarding your basses. I wish I could afford to purchase a fodera. Tried one in nyc at sam ash and I was quite impressed...thx for the videos..
Extremely useful these videos. I had a problem once with intonating, and I am very curious if anybody else had the same. I was trying to set up my bass with a traditional Fender-style bridge. While intonating I found out (at least that was my conclusion) that the process of intonating my bass was actually changing my string height. The result was that I wound up in some kind of vicious cirkel where I changed the string height to my preferences, then did the intonating, then corrected the string height again, then etc. etc. Is this seen as a common problem out there? The problem to me is that the screw that adjusts the string saddle is changing its angle with the bass depending on how close the saddle is screwed towards the bridge. This happens necessarily if the height of the saddle is not the same as the height of the saddle-screw entering the bridge, which will be the case most of the time. Let's say the saddle is higher than the entry of the saddle-screw into the bridge. This means that the saddle-screw will point upwards and any tightening of that screw will result in an increase of the string height. This seems to me to be an important piece of information? Or am I making a mistake?
What would give rise to a situation where, assuming all other steps have been performed properly (truss rod adjustment, string height adjustment, etc.), the intonation is correct at the 12th fret, but is off in the higher registers? It's just enough to bother me when I'm playing octaves or heads of tunes. It is absolutely a high quality instrument, and to be fair, the strings are new. When you intone for the 12th fret, by default should the 24th fret also be in tune, assuming the other steps have been performed properly?
Hi Fodera team, I just got a new yin yang standard, it is very cool and I really love it. I would like to ask that whether I can check the intonation by comparing an open string with the 24th fret instead of the fret 12 which you suggested. Thank you :)
I guess it is best to use a strobe tuner to do this, as it is the most accurate? Some tuners may not big up very small variations in pitch like the strobe.
To keep things straight, sometimes I use this to remember: if a sax player plays sharp while tuning, they pull their mouthpiece out a bit and essentially make the instrument longer. Trumpet players move their tuning slide out. Same idea with string instruments. If the fingered note is sharp relative to the open string, the string needs to be made longer by moving the bridge saddle back.
Fodera? What type of Bridge is mounted on this Bass Guitar? My FPB sports a bridge half the size is width albeit has the fine tune mechanism. Should i make a change?
+zenderlike Most modern metal bridges have the saddles on a threaded bolt, you can rotate it with a screwdriver and the sadle will move back or forth depending on which way you turn. If you don`t intonate your instrument the high notes will be off key. Once it`s set right it stays good, but if you put new strings on, it might change a little, that is why he says check it when you put new strings on.
Im surprised you dont loosen your string before each move of the saddle! Considering pushing a saddle against the winding of a string under tension is like a file in the groove and also the saddle screws all have a gear lash which the more lash or looseness of the screw in te threads can have you chasing a problem! Plus, you will aggravate the lash ( cause it to happen to good saddles or make it worse in worn saddles) as the screw will act like a tap when the string is tight! LOOSEN STRING BEFORE ADJUSTING AND, PUSH THE SADDLE AGAINST THE SCREW IN THE DIRECTION YOURE TURNING TO GET RID OF THE LASH!!!
Jason. Clear, clean without ego. Fantastic, and thank you
Best advice on the subject. Each bass and player needs specific adjustments that suits their particular style. This also includes action.
Wanna know what drives me nuts about the videos? I've never fully understood these steps and I've watched loads of videos. I finally find these ones and I get it! Your explanations are perfect for a person like me to get. Thanks!
Man I used to struggle a lot with this, I just realized that I never understood the process, and it is easy now that you explained that way, thanks a lot, great videos
Hey, did this series of videos ever helped me out. Thanks guys!
Really Great Tutorial! Thank you very much!
I want to clarify something for those who want to better understand why you lengthen the string when the fretted note is sharp and shorten the string when the fretted note is flat, because it has nothing to do with string tension.
Doubling the frequency of a note increases the note by one octave, which is why the 12th fret is exactly 1/2 way between the nut and bridge, and why the 24th fret (on a bass that has one) is exactly 1/2 way between the 12th fret and bridge.
From a practical standpoint, what this means is that if the distance from the bridge to the 12th fret is different than the distance from the 12th fret to the nut (or, in other words, that the 12th fret isn't exactly 1/2 way between the nut and bridge), each fretted note, which is at a fixed position set by the manufacturer when the bass is built, will be proportionately out of tune. If the 12th fret note played is sharp, the bridge-to-12th fret length is shorter than the 12th fret-to-nut length, so the saddle has to be moved farther away from the nut to increase the bridge-to-12th fret length, to get that ratio back to 50-50, and vice-versa.
Note that string thickness and other factors change the math a little bit, but it doesn't change the reasoning why we have to move bridge saddles forward or backward.
I hope this helps!
Also that bass is stunning! One of the nicest Fodera's I've seen
Thank you very much... I found my bass completely out of intonation, and now it is great. The bass sounds better now.
Would be helpful if you indicated which way you are turning E.g. clockwise or counterclockwise. Thanks!
Thanks for the straightforward video!
As the other ones : great vid. Easy explanation thkx.
Great explanation, easy to understand, thanks!
Another great video Jason! Thanks for the refresher course! I was taught to play the harmonic at the 12 th fret I can't wait to get my new strings tomorrow and out this to work!
All your videos are fantastic and a great educational experience regarding your basses. I wish I could afford to purchase a fodera. Tried one in nyc at sam ash and I was quite impressed...thx for the videos..
Extremely useful these videos. I had a problem once with intonating, and I am very curious if anybody else had the same. I was trying to set up my bass with a traditional Fender-style bridge. While intonating I found out (at least that was my conclusion) that the process of intonating my bass was actually changing my string height. The result was that I wound up in some kind of vicious cirkel where I changed the string height to my preferences, then did the intonating, then corrected the string height again, then etc. etc. Is this seen as a common problem out there? The problem to me is that the screw that adjusts the string saddle is changing its angle with the bass depending on how close the saddle is screwed towards the bridge. This happens necessarily if the height of the saddle is not the same as the height of the saddle-screw entering the bridge, which will be the case most of the time. Let's say the saddle is higher than the entry of the saddle-screw into the bridge. This means that the saddle-screw will point upwards and any tightening of that screw will result in an increase of the string height. This seems to me to be an important piece of information? Or am I making a mistake?
amazing! I tried it worked... thanks Jason
I love these videos! Thank you!
Great video! Thanks very much!
What would give rise to a situation where, assuming all other steps have been performed properly (truss rod adjustment, string height adjustment, etc.), the intonation is correct at the 12th fret, but is off in the higher registers? It's just enough to bother me when I'm playing octaves or heads of tunes. It is absolutely a high quality instrument, and to be fair, the strings are new. When you intone for the 12th fret, by default should the 24th fret also be in tune, assuming the other steps have been performed properly?
I love this bass!! Would like to buy the same one to myself!!:D Any tips?
Hi Fodera team, I just got a new yin yang standard, it is very cool and I really love it. I would like to ask that whether I can check the intonation by comparing an open string with the 24th fret instead of the fret 12 which you suggested. Thank you :)
I guess it is best to use a strobe tuner to do this, as it is the most accurate? Some tuners may not big up very small variations in pitch like the strobe.
To keep things straight, sometimes I use this to remember: if a sax player plays sharp while tuning, they pull their mouthpiece out a bit and essentially make the instrument longer. Trumpet players move their tuning slide out. Same idea with string instruments. If the fingered note is sharp relative to the open string, the string needs to be made longer by moving the bridge saddle back.
EXCELLENT!
Fodera? What type of Bridge is mounted on this Bass Guitar? My FPB sports a bridge half the size is width albeit has the fine tune mechanism. Should i make a change?
What is the tuner you are using ? I'd like to buy one. Thanks for the info.
How can the saddles move ? I don't get the point of each time adjusting the tone. Do you have an answer from the physical point of view ? Thanks a lot
+zenderlike Most modern metal bridges have the saddles on a threaded bolt, you can rotate it with a screwdriver and the sadle will move back or forth depending on which way you turn.
If you don`t intonate your instrument the high notes will be off key. Once it`s set right it stays good, but if you put new strings on, it might change a little, that is why he says check it when you put new strings on.
+ Koen Ok ! Good to learn ! Thanks a lot
Thanks!
What if the saddle is as far out as possible and the 12th fret is still flat?
Tabbyknocker same here. And I have new strings
Im surprised you dont loosen your string before each move of the saddle!
Considering pushing a saddle against the winding of a string under tension is like a file in the groove and also the saddle screws all have a gear lash which the more lash or looseness of the screw in te threads can have you chasing a problem!
Plus, you will aggravate the lash ( cause it to happen to good saddles or make it worse in worn saddles) as the screw will act like a tap when the string is tight!
LOOSEN STRING BEFORE ADJUSTING AND, PUSH THE SADDLE AGAINST THE SCREW IN THE DIRECTION YOURE TURNING TO GET RID OF THE LASH!!!