ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- A saw that was way too hard from the factory. It had several cracks and broke in two at one time but the cutter teeth are also very hard and hold an edge better then most saws.
More details here: www.jimthode.ne... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
i'm a retired logger that has been doing volunteer trail work for the forest service for the last 4 years. for my bucking i've used a chainsaw outside our two wilderness areas and silky saws where needed. i recently observed a contracted trail crew working a trail with a Dolly Chapman sharpened saw WOW! hooked immediately i rescued 3 saws badly rusted leaning on a structure on forest service property. thanks to your videos I'm currently working on a 5' bucking saw that i will put to use when finished. they had properly stored but dull one man saws that I've touched up and although very few noodles they cut quite well. thank you for all your information
Still going into his 70's. Very impressive and a great example
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. In your opinion, thinking along the lines of your video about “topping saws or shortened older felling saws for use as a one man felling saw” how short is useless? A 36” was mentioned but you later said it was 42”, would a 36 or a 33 be fruitful? I know you said on your blog website that for a one man it could be as short as the diameter of the log, plus a little room for your hand, but would you ever mess around with 36? 24!!!?I.e. if you had a lot of damaged older saws to cut SOMEWHERE, and you desired to maximize the useable pieces, what is the smallest crosscut saw (same PNW/INW western lance teeth/perforated lance and woods and all that). If you ever see this thanks for your time you’re like our buckin billy ray who I say is a Canadian national treasure
Thanks for the comment. The shortest user I have is 41" and I would not go less then 36". For a small log user I prefer close to 48" and often add a 2 to 3 lb weight on the free end of lighter weight cut off falling saws when single bucking.
pbase.com/jimthode/image/174152332
Thank you!
Can you free hand a 48” felling saw for a felling cut? or I guess it would depend on the saw, one of the unnamed felling saws I want to cut is probably way more noodly than a royal chinook and I guess that would determine the spot to cut. If it’s deflecting down dramatically with its own weight I guess it would be a birch to start and work horizontal/felling cuts. But good to know you would not bother with shorter than 36”. I was wondering if something like that would be useful for starting the kerf on bigger trees if the longer and well tapered felling saw was noodly until it got deeper in the wood, but I guess your technique and experience would start to be a factor more than a generalized rule on lengths, also the specific saw. I guess my problem is I have a really noodly felling saw (extremely well tapered) and a stiff one (barely tapered at all), I want the ideal one man felling saw. I imagine cutting the stiff one at 37.5” and maybe the noodle one around 42, as that was the longest I’ve found mentioned anywhere or in any videos of yours that is manageable being used freehand. That way I could utilize the taper in the bigger wood but have a stiffer more functional saw for 98% of the time. But maybe I should cut the stiffer one longer and the noodly one shorter, hate to waste maximizing the tapered section of the noodle saw or the maximum stiffness of the poorly tapered saw for horizontal cuts.
Side question, I noticed in an old picture of a high climber with his topping saw, (a) the handle is the same as your preferred, with the mount on the top vs the side, a sells style and one of the atkins. Is this just random or is there some reasoning/benefit. B) the guys handle was mounted at the narrower end, vs at the longer end, where it was cut, which gives it a really odd look, like the opposite of a classic handsaw. That picture is the only time I’ve seen that, and I was wondering, is he trying to maximize the crescent taper in the cut saw, putting the handle where the metals actually thickest, even though it’s only 2” wide there, and having the best tapered middle section for the majority of the cutting, even though that’s like 4” wide there? I ask because I haven’t seen it anywhere else and I figure you could either confirm or add some useful information. Would like to make an ideal one man felling saw
Thanks Jim, no noodles from that saw eh? More videos about saws please!
Noodles are nice but they do not really indicate if a saw if cuttings efficiently as possible. A better indication is how much the saw advances on each stroke or just measuring the thickness of cuttings. Thin cuttings will make noodles and thicker cuttings will break up and not make noodles. Also with dryer wood the cuttings will break up and not make noodles.
@@jimthode Thanks! So if it feels good, it is good huh?
Your the man! Many thanks for all the great videos and tonnes of top tips, keep em coming
Wow, you work fast!😂
oof. you gotta try a silky, you'll never go back
What’s a Silky? Could you provide a link please.
@@vickiereed643 He did. th-cam.com/video/SFeCUdnk48g/w-d-xo.html
A Silky KATANABOY is fine for smaller logs but they cost many times more then a vintage crosscut and don't work at all on larger logs like 3 to 4 Ft diameter.
He already disproved that in another video I use silly’s all the time as a climber but I would rather try to cut a 2’+ log with my forehead than a silky, that’s why I’m here watching all his stuff. Great resource I wonder if he knows the guy on the selway river