Thank you! If it’s like mine or even the newer style it should just be 4 bolts and a connector plug. Shouldn’t take more than than 20 minutes to put in a new one
Great video pretty sure I know the answer to this question but I have a classic model. I am assuming that both silinoids should be holding the flappers up when when the box is trying to get up to temp? Just checked my lower one is down. Tks for the help
Hi Thanks for the video, I have the same 1450 and I fired it up for the season a week ago. Today I could hear one of the secondary solinoids intermittently kicking on and off adn sometimes sticking. I disconnected the wires and only kept the one wired that wasn't sticking and the issues went away. Any thoughts on further trouble shooting? Anyway to check the computer? Thanks.
All the work I’ve done on my boilers was facilitated by my dealer giving me some tips. They have the diagnostic testing procedures for each model. I would get ahold of them and see if there’s any testing you can do
I have E classic 2300 furnace , came home and the temp was 202 degrees and fan was still going and solenoids were open. Any idea what I should check? Thanks
I actually had my computer unit go bad on me early on but it would do the opposite and not open the third phase solenoid. If it’s reading the temperature as 202 it should be shutting down so it’s gotta be whatever controls the fan and solenoids having a fault. That’s my thought anyhow, I’m not a repair tech. Just a guy who has worked on mine a lot and been able to solve all the problems so far
Thanks for the video. I have a model year 2012 E-Classic 2400 which looks similar to yours. Youre right there's not a lot of DIY self help info available. I'm having a hard time finding to reference to Firestar Codes. I came home today to a Code A-2 flashing on Firestar. Water temp dropped to 166 F. Any ideas? I
I’m going to have to think in that. Do you have a good rapport with the person who sold you the boiler? Since I buy all my parts through my guy he usually does me a solid and uses his repair manual to let me know what the code means. Then I buy the appropriate parts. I wish I could buy the repair manuals directly. If you give me some more details I can try to think what it may be. Changes in water temp and reaction chamber temps and stuff
hi, we have the same boiler, problem with it is this, turn it on close the door, trips out the power, disconnect the top solenoid and its dont trip out, any ideas?
Does that top solenoid open and close during the test cycle when you initiate it? You can look up in the owners manual how to do the self test if you don’t already know how.
Like I said it trips the power off the moment the door is closed. Once I disconnect the top solenoid it don’t trip . There is nothing in the manual troubleshooting about that
It the summer now so I’m working off memory but I think when you open the door the computer turns on the fan and opens the solenoid. I was asking if you did the diagnostic because if that solenoid is bad maybe it’s tripping a safety from requiring too much resistance or something. The door and that solenoid are tied together by the computer so it seems possible that the solenoid could be the issue. Just a preliminary impression
Good video, thanks. I have a burnt out fan, I believe. Not exactly sure how to replace it, but your video helps. My model is the E-Classic 2300.
Thank you! If it’s like mine or even the newer style it should just be 4 bolts and a connector plug. Shouldn’t take more than than 20 minutes to put in a new one
Great video pretty sure I know the answer to this question but I have a classic model. I am assuming that both silinoids should be holding the flappers up when when the box is trying to get up to temp? Just checked my lower one is down. Tks for the help
The changes in the models seem to have maintained the same concepts even though they changed how it’s done a little bit
Hi Thanks for the video, I have the same 1450 and I fired it up for the season a week ago. Today I could hear one of the secondary solinoids intermittently kicking on and off adn sometimes sticking. I disconnected the wires and only kept the one wired that wasn't sticking and the issues went away. Any thoughts on further trouble shooting? Anyway to check the computer? Thanks.
All the work I’ve done on my boilers was facilitated by my dealer giving me some tips. They have the diagnostic testing procedures for each model. I would get ahold of them and see if there’s any testing you can do
I have E classic 2300 furnace , came home and the temp was 202 degrees and fan was still going and solenoids were open. Any idea what I should check? Thanks
I actually had my computer unit go bad on me early on but it would do the opposite and not open the third phase solenoid. If it’s reading the temperature as 202 it should be shutting down so it’s gotta be whatever controls the fan and solenoids having a fault. That’s my thought anyhow, I’m not a repair tech. Just a guy who has worked on mine a lot and been able to solve all the problems so far
Thanks for the video. I have a model year 2012 E-Classic 2400 which looks similar to yours. Youre right there's not a lot of DIY self help info available. I'm having a hard time finding to reference to Firestar Codes. I came home today to a Code A-2 flashing on Firestar. Water temp dropped to 166 F. Any ideas? I
I’m going to have to think in that. Do you have a good rapport with the person who sold you the boiler? Since I buy all my parts through my guy he usually does me a solid and uses his repair manual to let me know what the code means. Then I buy the appropriate parts. I wish I could buy the repair manuals directly. If you give me some more details I can try to think what it may be. Changes in water temp and reaction chamber temps and stuff
hi, we have the same boiler, problem with it is this, turn it on close the door, trips out the power, disconnect the top solenoid and its dont trip out, any ideas?
Does that top solenoid open and close during the test cycle when you initiate it? You can look up in the owners manual how to do the self test if you don’t already know how.
Like I said it trips the power off the moment the door is closed. Once I disconnect the top solenoid it don’t trip . There is nothing in the manual troubleshooting about that
It the summer now so I’m working off memory but I think when you open the door the computer turns on the fan and opens the solenoid. I was asking if you did the diagnostic because if that solenoid is bad maybe it’s tripping a safety from requiring too much resistance or something. The door and that solenoid are tied together by the computer so it seems possible that the solenoid could be the issue. Just a preliminary impression
$700 for a solenoid! Good god! Glad we dont have those in texas lol
Maybe I miss spoke, the computer is 700. I’m not sure how much the solenoid is
@@RADIOACTIVEMASCULINITY ahhhhh