I’ve watch many many videos due to my “art” of cutting a curve whether with a bread knife or a chainsaw and you certainly expressed very simply. Thank you. And your now obvious idea of balancing the bar is much appreciated.
My last sharpening gadget purchase was a Pferd CS-X. It does the tooth and raker at the same time. Unfortunately you can't just simply change the file size for your different chains. The proper guide is determined by the pitch of the chain. That being said, it's small enough to put in your pocket or tool pouch and I'm happy with it. I still have and use a Granberg that works great on all saw chains that I've had over the years. It's probably 45/50 yrs. old. It's my understanding Pferd makes the same guide for Stihl. Different color. 🥴 Another good video. 👍🍻
Another very informative tutorial. I like "little and often" as a rule for touch ups. Today i ripped the rounds of birch from one of the trees i took down yesterday. There were large stems going in every direction at the base of the tree, and i had to get the cut as flush to the ground at the request of the customer. I used the stihl 501(light weight bar), freshly sharpened, and sharpened twice more before i cut small enough pieces that i could dolly up the ramp in to my truck. Because of the hardness, 60" diameter and every direction of grain of the wood, im curious what tips you have to make that part of the job easier on my saw and chain. Id love to here what you've got to say!
Thanks for watching and commenting! Dirt ingress around the base of trees is incredibly hard on chains and bars and you’ll find it will dull the teeth very quickly. Save and use old chains and solid nose bars where possible, but the answer, especially if you can’t remove the bark prior is to just sharpen frequently and don’t use your best chains, bars and saws if possible. Keep them just for stumping! Warm regards, Tom. Edit: you can consider tungsten chains for that specific job but I don’t have experience with them personally and I think you’re better off just sharpening frequently :)
I don’t have any book recommendations I’m afraid! I must admit I never read books, apart from my bible! I find TH-cam, google and forums to be superior. With that said one must be discerning as to what you trust and give worth to - there is both amazing and terrible advise out there 🤣 thanks again!
I like books just cuz I dont like scrolling on the phone screen too much. I use a map book when I'm planning trips to jobs lol. The fact that I've found you and your channel is super helpful. We save all of our old chains and bars etc. I'll make a combo chain/bar for each saw to help with the dirtier cuts. Have a great day brother! Keep on doing what you do!
@@VintageEngineRepairsin the video you mentioned that you'll leave links to the bar dressing tools in the description but they're not there. No drama, just wondering what you use. My wheels are a bit knackered and i file my bar by hand, interested in what you recommend
I bought a brand new chain and bar 20imch ,husqvarna 450 rancher and it hooks to the left ,when I start the cut it boggs down and just doesn't cut right, I've never seen anything thing like this In 40 years
I have 25 acres of woods and am constantly cutting trees to either clear stuff that fell, create trails, or cut firewood. Lately I noticed my saw will bind on larger logs as if it's being pinched, except I'm cutting a tree that is hanging in midair. i.e. it is anything but pinched. However, I watched your video and it so complicates the dynamics of a chainsaw chain, that it just makes me want to throw the whole thing away. It's simply not worth that much effort and "precision". At least not to me. If it's really that hard, why do people do it? Interestingly, in the 70's we would cut tons of firewood out of alder in the Seattle area and never had any problems. Cuts were always smooth and fast. And on rare occasion we would sharpen the blade with a simple file. It had a thumb press blade oiler. Now, I live in Kentucky and there is poplar, oak, walnut, hickory, cedar, etc. And cutting firewood is a royal pain. In fact, about a quarter inch of the edges of the top and bottom of the blade (I reversed it) are blue with heat, even though there is plenty of oil getting to it. I will occasionally even see sparks come off the chain even though there is no metal, rocks or dirt coming in contact with it. I use a Stihl MS 290, BTW. FWIW, I always thought a hydraulic wood splitter was just an extravagance. Then I tried to split Hickory. I bought a hydraulic splitter.😉
@@VintageEngineRepairs Noooooo! I mean yeah. You're probably right. Good thing I'm now retired. Regarding your video, it is very good, but I think it falls under this category: The truth shall set you free, but first it will make you sick.😎
Hi! I don’t have the part number for the Stihl I’m afraid. A quick google search will tell you though. I have included a link to a generic one in the description which is identical and much cheaper. Thanks for watching!,
Real good advice I have just had to order a new Valorbe bar dresser as mine finally gave out. I really wish Stihl would make Hexa chain in .325 as filling by hand in the field is so much easier.
@@patrickvennard838 ahh yeah out in Australia some of the woods we cut have a Janka hardness rating 3-5 x harder than oak, ash, beech etc. Most people use semi chisel out here.
I’ve watch many many videos due to my “art” of cutting a curve whether with a bread knife or a chainsaw and you certainly expressed very simply. Thank you. And your now obvious idea of balancing the bar is much appreciated.
You’re very welcome! 😊
I have never spent much time thinking anything more than sharp and not sharp. Good video 👍
Hopefully it will be helpful in the future :)
Great information. When dressing the bar please remember the sharp edges and put just a slight slight bevel on them with a file.
Absolutely right Steve! A couple of quick 45 degree passes to cut the sharp edge is very worth while!
My last sharpening gadget purchase was a Pferd CS-X. It does the tooth and raker at the same time. Unfortunately you can't just simply change the file size for your different chains. The proper guide is determined by the pitch of the chain. That being said, it's small enough to put in your pocket or tool pouch and I'm happy with it.
I still have and use a Granberg that works great on all saw chains that I've had over the years. It's probably 45/50 yrs. old.
It's my understanding Pferd makes the same guide for Stihl. Different color. 🥴
Another good video. 👍🍻
Thanks for sharing, I believe it’s what stihl refer to as the 2 in 1? Glad you like yours :) thanks for commenting!
Good advice Tom 😊
Thank you!
Another very informative tutorial.
I like "little and often" as a rule for touch ups.
Today i ripped the rounds of birch from one of the trees i took down yesterday. There were large stems going in every direction at the base of the tree, and i had to get the cut as flush to the ground at the request of the customer. I used the stihl 501(light weight bar), freshly sharpened, and sharpened twice more before i cut small enough pieces that i could dolly up the ramp in to my truck.
Because of the hardness, 60" diameter and every direction of grain of the wood, im curious what tips you have to make that part of the job easier on my saw and chain.
Id love to here what you've got to say!
Also, do you have a recommendation for any books that thoroughly cover this type of material?
Thanks for watching and commenting! Dirt ingress around the base of trees is incredibly hard on chains and bars and you’ll find it will dull the teeth very quickly. Save and use old chains and solid nose bars where possible, but the answer, especially if you can’t remove the bark prior is to just sharpen frequently and don’t use your best chains, bars and saws if possible. Keep them just for stumping!
Warm regards, Tom. Edit: you can consider tungsten chains for that specific job but I don’t have experience with them personally and I think you’re better off just sharpening frequently :)
I don’t have any book recommendations I’m afraid! I must admit I never read books, apart from my bible! I find TH-cam, google and forums to be superior. With that said one must be discerning as to what you trust and give worth to - there is both amazing and terrible advise out there 🤣 thanks again!
I like books just cuz I dont like scrolling on the phone screen too much. I use a map book when I'm planning trips to jobs lol.
The fact that I've found you and your channel is super helpful.
We save all of our old chains and bars etc. I'll make a combo chain/bar for each saw to help with the dirtier cuts.
Have a great day brother! Keep on doing what you do!
@@tl6282 thank you mate :) I understand completely! Best of luck, keep a file always to hand and don’t wait until it’s dull to pull the file out :)
Good info Tom.
Mr Pete! Thank you sir!
Can't see the bar dressing tools in the list.
Are they somewhere else?
Hey, sorry mate what list? It’s been a while since I made the video lol
@@VintageEngineRepairsin the video you mentioned that you'll leave links to the bar dressing tools in the description but they're not there.
No drama, just wondering what you use.
My wheels are a bit knackered and i file my bar by hand, interested in what you recommend
Gotcha!! Here you go :) amzn.to/44AFT1i
Very helpful my friend
Thanks for watching!
I bought a brand new chain and bar 20imch ,husqvarna 450 rancher and it hooks to the left ,when I start the cut it boggs down and just doesn't cut right, I've never seen anything thing like this In 40 years
Sorry to hear it, take it back and ask for a replacement. It could be the wrong gauge
Really good advise Tom, i think you missed one reason and thats the operator 🤣🤣
So true Nev 🤣
I can be problematic 🤪
I bought chains ( it came as a 2pack ) and one cut at an angle must have been made on a Monday 😡
How annoying! You can file it to fix it hopefully :)
Great video Tom! I had no idea you could get a tool to straighten/align the bar. I learnt something today!
Thanks Stella! Glad you enjoyed it :)
Good info Tom. Most consumers just chuck the old bar out and buy a new one!
Thanks Ken, yep, they will! This video is aimed at the more frequent user of saws.
I have 25 acres of woods and am constantly cutting trees to either clear stuff that fell, create trails, or cut firewood. Lately I noticed my saw will bind on larger logs as if it's being pinched, except I'm cutting a tree that is hanging in midair. i.e. it is anything but pinched.
However, I watched your video and it so complicates the dynamics of a chainsaw chain, that it just makes me want to throw the whole thing away. It's simply not worth that much effort and "precision". At least not to me. If it's really that hard, why do people do it?
Interestingly, in the 70's we would cut tons of firewood out of alder in the Seattle area and never had any problems. Cuts were always smooth and fast. And on rare occasion we would sharpen the blade with a simple file. It had a thumb press blade oiler. Now, I live in Kentucky and there is poplar, oak, walnut, hickory, cedar, etc. And cutting firewood is a royal pain. In fact, about a quarter inch of the edges of the top and bottom of the blade (I reversed it) are blue with heat, even though there is plenty of oil getting to it. I will occasionally even see sparks come off the chain even though there is no metal, rocks or dirt coming in contact with it. I use a Stihl MS 290, BTW.
FWIW, I always thought a hydraulic wood splitter was just an extravagance. Then I tried to split Hickory. I bought a hydraulic splitter.😉
Thanks for watching :) yep, it takes some elegance to get a good chain! With 25 acres you’ll want sharpening and maintenance to be second nature haha.
@@VintageEngineRepairs Noooooo!
I mean yeah. You're probably right. Good thing I'm now retired.
Regarding your video, it is very good, but I think it falls under this category:
The truth shall set you free, but first it will make you sick.😎
It’s surprising how much can be involved with maintaining a bar and chain can’t it!
Good tips Tom. One thing though, when sharpening a chain or dressing the bar wear gloves. Ask me how I know ! 😁
Thanks for watching Al :) you have to be careful yep!
What is the part number for that bar dressing tool?
Hi! I don’t have the part number for the Stihl I’m afraid. A quick google search will tell you though. I have included a link to a generic one in the description which is identical and much cheaper. Thanks for watching!,
Congratulations on reaching over 4,000 Subscribers
Thank you!
@@VintageEngineRepairsWas really fast, congrats from me as well!
Real good advice I have just had to order a new Valorbe bar dresser as mine finally gave out. I really wish Stihl would make Hexa chain in .325 as filling by hand in the field is so much easier.
Useful to have :) I haven’t tried hexa, out here the wood is too hard, it wouldn’t last, but I bet it’s excellent in the softer woods!
@@VintageEngineRepairs I live in the UK and cut a lot of Oak and Ash and Hexa appears to be a durable as RS chain.
@@patrickvennard838 ahh yeah out in Australia some of the woods we cut have a Janka hardness rating 3-5 x harder than oak, ash, beech etc. Most people use semi chisel out here.
@@VintageEngineRepairs That's interesting to know.