I know you don't care who I am, but I just wanted to add my 2 cents worth, and say, thank you for your advice. Now you've given me another bloody job to do on the weekend. lol - Thanks for the clarity in your video. excellent audio and video work
Thank you Craig for this easy to follow tutorial! Just did my mondeo in 2 hours on my own. was a straight forward procedure if anyone's on the fence about doing it at home. Just took a little bit of time to jack / take wheel off each corner to get to the bleed nipple each time
Thank you for that easy explanation. I have argued with too many people to NEVER push the pedal all the way to the floor when bleeding. A lot of old school mechanics do this too!
Nice vid. The order should be done with the furthest caliper from the master cylinder first. Ie if the master is on the front right, you should do the left rear first and working you way to the shortest line being at the front right.
Thank you. This helped me greatly. Bleeding the brakes on my 2000 Ford focus. I had never done this before and was able to successfully do this with just this video for guidance.
The best video on how to bleed breaks. Thank you very much. It seems as though taking off the wheels is the hardest part of this job, which isn't all that hard. Thanks again for this excellent video.
A very good video and thank you, a couple of small points however to help. 1. use a bungee to hold the bottle in place. 2. go round the vehicle and clean/crack open the nipples first. It can be heartbreaking to bleed 3 calipers only to find you cannot open the 4th. There are special 3/4 ring spanners available for brake nipples if required. Just my 2 penneth worth. Again thanks for the video.
Great video.....the important thing I learned from this is to keep the flushing tube / catch bottle above the caliper (this is still well below the reservoir level )& to keep it submerged always....I got air in system once because I didn`t....its all logical....and well explained thank you (y)
The best video on the subject I have seen. Highly detailed; everything is on point. The only thing I would add is that sometimes you’ll get air bubbles at nipple-hose connection. Covering the joint with a little grease will keep the air out.
One downside of using the brake to flush the fluid is that you can ruin the master cylinder. The piston goes into the master cylinder bore further than usual and can get stuck. Time for a new master cylinder. To help prevent this place a brick or piece of wood on the floor under the brake pedal to limit how far you can depress brake. Or better yet use a pressure bleeder to bleed the system and avoid this potential pit fall. Nice video though.
Or damaging the bladder inside the brake booster...this pressure bleed ur mentioning...would that be similar to using suction on the bleeder valve to pull the bubbles and new fluid through? Like hooking a spray bottle top onto the tube and opening the valve and spraying the spray top to pull it from the bleeder valve?
O.K., so if you are not going to use the foot-operated brake pedal to flush the fluid out of the system, how do you get the fluid out of the system? Provided that the reservoir fluid level is always between MIN and MAX, when the pedal is pushed, the result - as far as the master cylinder is concerned - is the same as when the brakes are operating normally. O.K., so the brake pedal goes down a lot easier - but that is not the point.
This idea is genius. I used this method last year because I had nobody to pump the brakes for me and leaving the system open to drain into the bottle will keep your brakes squishy and very easy to pump. Plus the process is very fast, compared to the "buddy system" of bleeding. And best of all...no mess! WATCH THE RESERVOIR! And only pump a few times before checking. That reservoir will drain and suck air very quickly. I had that happen the first time and I had to re-bleed my system from the start.
Should of watched this 4 months ago and saves the hassle getting it done in the garage.....becasue you explained it very good and this video would give confidence to anyone doing their brakes.It is a simple as that.
Some useful things to remember in this video. Thanks! just to be on the safe side, I use a Vizibleed. It has a non-return valve. The model without a bottle is only £3.50 at eBay
This video really helped me out,since my mechanic told me to bleed brakes It would cost me 80eur what is insane since I can do It myself... Thanks again for this great video explaining everything that I needed to know!
Great video. 2 things: 1- check level of existing fluid (and mark it on the tank) to determine brake pad wear, before starting, to avoid over filling should your pads/shoes be worn - topping to max not always a good idea. 2- it's a good idea to remove the abs relay (if equipped) to avoid a potential fault.
Two tricks I learned while battling the bolts and bleeder valves on my trailblazer...put a drill bit that fits nicely into the bleeder valve before trying to loosen it..that way it doesn’t collapse when u r trying to break it loose...I damaged one of mine so bad I have to replace it cuz the sucker collapsed on the side the wrench was putting most of the pressure..generally they’re brass which is pretty soft...and u can take a spray bottle tube and spray top and attach the hose to the end of the spray top tube and the other end of the hose on the bleeder...open the bleeder and start spraying...it’ll suck the fluid out as well as any bubbles and won’t let air back up the tube to the bleeder..
fed up with paying a garage to do stuff on my puma i can learn to do myself. changed the radiator before xmas in the rain. got brake hoses, lower control arms, tie rod ends and a wheel hub and bearing to replace within the next few days, never done this before but i'll have to take the hub assembly to the garage to pres in the bearings as i dont have a hydraulic press. wish me luck
DON'T ever use an adjustable wrench on a brake bleeder. It's is quite small and can sometimes require a good bit of torque to get loose. Adjustable wrench is a good way to round off the bleeder. Use a box end wrench only.
Hey Craig, Thank you very much for sharing this. I did it yesterday but it took me a lot of time to finish the work. How long does it take for you to finish the work?
Sick and tired of putting the seat belt over my white shirt only to discover some mechanic, tyre or exhaust fitter has put the seat belt on with filthy hands, left a car locked in a hot summer unused and there was all mold and growth on the front seat belts mainly
well done video I just subscribed! is anything additional necessary to get the pedal firm? do we need to pump the pedal additionally after securing the brake master cylinder cap? would this be necessary after each brake or only after all brakes are bled?
@@CraigsDIY Yeah -- my son bought me a really cool metric wrench set that ratchets at both the open (neat trick) and box ends, but it skips 9 and 11 mm. I gave Home Depot a lukewarm *** review because of the two missing sizes. For brake work I splurged on a topnotch Schwaben wrench set designed with brake work in mind.
Well both, not sure what you're asking. Best to have cap on loosely when you're not filling, to ensure no contamination of the fluid. And top up between each wheel, ideally, it's important not to let the tank go empty.
Hi craig's, can you do a video how to open and close CLAMPS that is holding the Air filter? Please, inform me when you will put it online. you have a good view on it at 12min:06s
Hi Craig! I have a strange problem. My dashboard randomly shows brake warning light ( exclamation mark icon ) and stays for a long time. I have new brake pads and also fluid level seems to be fine. Recently the hand brake cables were even replaced assuming it was due to that but still the warning light pops up when driving. What could be the issue mate?
What is your car and what is the light symbol? If it's the handbrake warning, and the handbrake is obviously functioning ok, then it could be the switch on the hand lever.
Hey man I've got to bleed the breaks on my Focus. what size tubes did you use on yours? you said they were different from front to back? Also in what order did you bleed the calipers? cheers mate
The valve nut sizes were different, not the nozzles. The tube is about 4 mm internal diameter, it just wants to be smaller than the nozzle and will go on with some encouragement.
Has anyone tried repeatedly changing only the brake fluid in the reservoir method over a period of several weeks? Although not perfect, I believe this "Turkey-Baster" method does somewhat of a good job as a lot of the brake fluid eventually circulates throughout the entire system anyways and the brake lines will eventually fill with new brake fluid.
It doesn't really circulate, which is why you need to flush/bleed the at the brakes. Otherwise the fluid in the calipers will not get much circulation, certainly not after just a few weeks. But it would be better than nothing.
Never use an adjustable spanner, you run the risk of rounding the nipple hex. Use a crow foot spanner of the correct size. I prefer to pressure up the master cylinder to about 15psi to bleed, too much hassle pumping brake. Good job though!
@@CraigsDIY I've seen videos recently which recommending cracking the bleed valves prior to winding in the piston to avoid forcing fluid back down towards the master cylinder - seems reasonable to me, do you bother with that? Also what do you do with the old fluid you've collected, are there collections for it where you live or do you need to dispose of it at the tip?
This video's about bleeding the brakes, you wouldn't wind in pistons for that (only when replacing pads or calipers themselves, and yes crack the nipple). Auto shops usually have disposal bins for old oil, I use them.
The whole object of 'bleeding the brakes' is to make sure that there are no contaminants in the brake fluid - and that includes air. Therefore, if you do anything to a car's brakes, make sure that the last thing you do is 'bleed the brakes'. Note that if you worked on the brakes on only one wheel (unlikely), or the pair on one axle only, you still need to bleed the brakes on all FOUR wheels
Amazon links to relevant products (from the description):
* Brake fluid - Amazon US: amzn.to/2BbX6Pb | UK: amzn.to/2DRlatX
* Brake bleed kit - Amazon US: amzn.to/2rk35Sm | UK: amzn.to/2EUAULK
* Flare nut spanners/wrenches - Amazon US: amzn.to/2rkSzum | UK: amzn.to/2mNEKPo
* Brake clean - Amazon US: amzn.to/2DNbGj6 | UK: amzn.to/2Bfp4d4
Hey craig im having trouble on my modeo we watched this video and did the same but know my cruise cintrol has stopped working completely? Any ideas
A very simple, clearly explained video. Brilliant, exactly what is needed by the majority of us home mechanics.
And a good job so we can pay a professional to do it, they can spot other potential problems on your car when they're doing the job.
I know you don't care who I am, but I just wanted to add my 2 cents worth, and say, thank you for your advice. Now you've given me another bloody job to do on the weekend. lol - Thanks for the clarity in your video. excellent audio and video work
Thank you Craig for this easy to follow tutorial! Just did my mondeo in 2 hours on my own. was a straight forward procedure if anyone's on the fence about doing it at home. Just took a little bit of time to jack / take wheel off each corner to get to the bleed nipple each time
Thank you for that easy explanation. I have argued with too many people to NEVER push the pedal all the way to the floor when bleeding. A lot of old school mechanics do this too!
This is great, thank you for taking the time to make such a thorough video!
One of the best car DIY videos on youtube! Precise yet simple!
Nice vid. The order should be done with the furthest caliper from the master cylinder first. Ie if the master is on the front right, you should do the left rear first and working you way to the shortest line being at the front right.
This is a fantastic tutorial - well explained and simple to follow, thanks - it helped me out a lot!
simply and elegantly put. Well done, feel very comfortable completing this job now. :)
Thank you. This helped me greatly. Bleeding the brakes on my 2000 Ford focus. I had never done this before and was able to successfully do this with just this video for guidance.
The best video on how to bleed breaks. Thank you very much. It seems as though taking off the wheels is the hardest part of this job, which isn't all that hard. Thanks again for this excellent video.
A very good video and thank you, a couple of small points however to help. 1. use a bungee to hold the bottle in place. 2. go round the vehicle and clean/crack open the nipples first. It can be heartbreaking to bleed 3 calipers only to find you cannot open the 4th. There are special 3/4 ring spanners available for brake nipples if required. Just my 2 penneth worth. Again thanks for the video.
Great video.....the important thing I learned from this is to keep the flushing tube / catch bottle above the caliper (this is still well below the reservoir level )& to keep it submerged always....I got air in system once because I didn`t....its all logical....and well explained thank you (y)
The best video on the subject I have seen. Highly detailed; everything is on point. The only thing I would add is that sometimes you’ll get air bubbles at nipple-hose connection. Covering the joint with a little grease will keep the air out.
Very educational, thank you for putting in the effort when making the video!
The mic setup for this sounds like tennis match commentary
I was waiting for the score lol
👍😂😂
You're bloody awesome perfect explanation simple & on point 👍🏼👍🏼
One downside of using the brake to flush the fluid is that you can ruin the master cylinder. The piston goes into the master cylinder bore further than usual and can get stuck. Time for a new master cylinder. To help prevent this place a brick or piece of wood on the floor under the brake pedal to limit how far you can depress brake. Or better yet use a pressure bleeder to bleed the system and avoid this potential pit fall. Nice video though.
I've learnt something new, thanks.
Really!? Never knew this,cheers for the info.
Or damaging the bladder inside the brake booster...this pressure bleed ur mentioning...would that be similar to using suction on the bleeder valve to pull the bubbles and new fluid through? Like hooking a spray bottle top onto the tube and opening the valve and spraying the spray top to pull it from the bleeder valve?
O.K., so if you are not going to use the foot-operated brake pedal to flush the fluid out of the system, how do you get the fluid out of the system? Provided that the reservoir fluid level is always between MIN and MAX, when the pedal is pushed, the result - as far as the master cylinder is concerned - is the same as when the brakes are operating normally. O.K., so the brake pedal goes down a lot easier - but that is not the point.
th-cam.com/video/bbm9xSpzA0A/w-d-xo.html please subscribe to my channel
This idea is genius. I used this method last year because I had nobody to pump the brakes for me and leaving the system open to drain into the bottle will keep your brakes squishy and very easy to pump. Plus the process is very fast, compared to the "buddy system" of bleeding. And best of all...no mess! WATCH THE RESERVOIR! And only pump a few times before checking. That reservoir will drain and suck air very quickly. I had that happen the first time and I had to re-bleed my system from the start.
I wish all DIY videos were made this simple. great job
Should of watched this 4 months ago and saves the hassle getting it done in the garage.....becasue you explained it very good and this video would give confidence to anyone doing their brakes.It is a simple as that.
Finally! A clear and concise explanation. Thank you very much 🙏
Terrific video. Well explained and also well filmed
Thanks for the tips on your video, they're very helpful.
Thank you. i did find this visual beneficial. There are other visuals out there. This one is simpler in application.
And another great video with clear explanation. Time to raise the hood, er I mean bonnet, and get to work.
Great video.. I’m gonna do it!.. noted below only push brake pedal down half way to prevent over extending and knackering your master cylinder
Well done! Excellent video and step by step guide.
He really wiped it off with a speedo
I fucking died when you started wiping with your underwear lmfao
Some useful things to remember in this video. Thanks!
just to be on the safe side, I use a Vizibleed. It has a non-return valve.
The model without a bottle is only £3.50 at eBay
Cheers dude - you helped me a lot with this video. Much appreciated.
Clear and concise Craig 👍
very good explanation. Thank you.
I could listen to this guy all day. Nice vid.
Thanks for the good explanations - I feel I could tackle this on my own car for the first time after watching this
This video really helped me out,since my mechanic told me to bleed brakes It would cost me 80eur what is insane since I can do It myself... Thanks again for this great video explaining everything that I needed to know!
Great video. 2 things: 1- check level of existing fluid (and mark it on the tank) to determine brake pad wear, before starting, to avoid over filling should your pads/shoes be worn - topping to max not always a good idea. 2- it's a good idea to remove the abs relay (if equipped) to avoid a potential fault.
Yeah that's a good tip using brake fluid level to judge brake pad wear, thanks
Brilliant guide. Many thanks
outstanding video!
Perfect demo. Thanks
really good DIY job
you are The Best, tanks so much! I have to do it with my Dodge Caliber
Brilliant and good job!
Brilliant video thank you...
Thank you. Very helpful!
Great video!
Super clear video
very helpful thank you
Great video 👍🏻
Great video well done 👏
Great vid dude, thanks alot
Using the bottle pump is quite smart never thought of that
Very well done.
great video love the accent and intelligence, felt like a documentary
Good explanation nice clear voice 👌
great video.
Gret job!! LOL!! Were you using an old underwear to wipe the reservoir?? HAHAHA!!!
I do exactly the same! All my old clothing is used for working :D
Eh why not? Reduce, re-use, recycle.
I saw that too. An old pair of scants lolz
Please make more videos like this and how to do engine overhaul
Two tricks I learned while battling the bolts and bleeder valves on my trailblazer...put a drill bit that fits nicely into the bleeder valve before trying to loosen it..that way it doesn’t collapse when u r trying to break it loose...I damaged one of mine so bad I have to replace it cuz the sucker collapsed on the side the wrench was putting most of the pressure..generally they’re brass which is pretty soft...and u can take a spray bottle tube and spray top and attach the hose to the end of the spray top tube and the other end of the hose on the bleeder...open the bleeder and start spraying...it’ll suck the fluid out as well as any bubbles and won’t let air back up the tube to the bleeder..
over 100 likes and 0 dislikes and I can see why very well explained very simple and very useful video Thanks
fed up with paying a garage to do stuff on my puma i can learn to do myself. changed the radiator before xmas in the rain. got brake hoses, lower control arms, tie rod ends and a wheel hub and bearing to replace within the next few days, never done this before but i'll have to take the hub assembly to the garage to pres in the bearings as i dont have a hydraulic press. wish me luck
Well done.
Good video mate, questionable choice in rags. but if it works, it works. Thanks again
Thank you
Hi Craig, great video, really useful. I’m assuming this works with fluid travelling through the ABS pump as you bleed the system? Thanks again :)
nice video
DON'T ever use an adjustable wrench on a brake bleeder. It's is quite small and can sometimes require a good bit of torque to get loose. Adjustable wrench is a good way to round off the bleeder. Use a box end wrench only.
Compliqué comme tous les anglais ,bon brexit.
Awesome Mechanical Education
English people are masters of speech lol. I love their diverse inteligent word choice!
Thanks!
Hey Craig, Thank you very much for sharing this. I did it yesterday but it took me a lot of time to finish the work. How long does it take for you to finish the work?
cleanliness is a must. even.when opening or closing your door or turning the steering wheel u dont want brake fluid on those surfaces.......
Sick and tired of putting the seat belt over my white shirt only to discover some mechanic, tyre or exhaust fitter has put the seat belt on with filthy hands, left a car locked in a hot summer unused and there was all mold and growth on the front seat belts mainly
Yeah no video is a 100% explanation of all the potential possibilities.
Is there anyboady knows what is the bleeding order for Peugeot 2010 3008 1.6 hdi england so righthand drive??
спасибо
Is that regular strength Break clean.. or the non chlorinated spray?
Is he using a pair of old pants to clean his master cylinder? 😂
haha, love the purple pants!!
Closed eyes all I can hear is Elon musk 😂👌🏽nice vid btw
well done video I just subscribed! is anything additional necessary to get the pedal firm? do we need to pump the pedal additionally after securing the brake master cylinder cap? would this be necessary after each brake or only after all brakes are bled?
Nothing additional necessary. If your pedal is not firm, you may have let air into the system.
Nice video! By the way, why are you turning your wheel with the brake fluid glove on? Did you clean your steering wheel after?? 11:08
cheers
One does not generally need an 11mm wrench, since 7/16" = 11.1mm. Likewise, 5/8" = 15.9mm, and 3/4" = 19.05mm.
You're right. Generally - if you have imperial spanners. The little spanner set I was grumbling about has only metric sizes.
Europe is mostly metric so most people won't have any standard wrenches. Good tip for people in the US. though.
@@CraigsDIY Yeah -- my son bought me a really cool metric wrench set that ratchets at both the open (neat trick) and box ends, but it skips 9 and 11 mm. I gave Home Depot a lukewarm *** review because of the two missing sizes. For brake work I splurged on a topnotch Schwaben wrench set designed with brake work in mind.
Hi. Sorry is it 6.5mm outer or inner diameter, thank you.
Using Aussie brake fluid too. Greetings from Sydney,Australia. Nulon is a very good brand, suits Australian conditions......bloody hot !
Do you press brake pedal with cap off when. Bleeding each wheel or just top up with the cap off until all wheels are done?
Well both, not sure what you're asking. Best to have cap on loosely when you're not filling, to ensure no contamination of the fluid. And top up between each wheel, ideally, it's important not to let the tank go empty.
Might be worth mentioning the difference between doing it solo or with a pedal presser person x LOL at kegs to wipe clean eeeeeek
Hi craig's, can you do a video how to open and close CLAMPS that is holding the Air filter? Please, inform me when you will put it online. you have a good view on it at 12min:06s
Yeah it's demo'ed later as you see, I also focus on it a bit more in my throttle-body video as it's more specific to that.
Hi Craig! I have a strange problem. My dashboard randomly shows brake warning light ( exclamation mark icon ) and stays for a long time. I have new brake pads and also fluid level seems to be fine. Recently the hand brake cables were even replaced assuming it was due to that but still the warning light pops up when driving. What could be the issue mate?
What is your car and what is the light symbol? If it's the handbrake warning, and the handbrake is obviously functioning ok, then it could be the switch on the hand lever.
Do you replace the cap back on the master after each fill during the process of bleeding. Oak Cliff Dallas. God bless you and your viewers.
No need to tighten/seal it. But leave it on as a cover.
Thanks for everything.
Hey man I've got to bleed the breaks on my Focus. what size tubes did you use on yours? you said they were different from front to back?
Also in what order did you bleed the calipers?
cheers mate
The valve nut sizes were different, not the nozzles. The tube is about 4 mm internal diameter, it just wants to be smaller than the nozzle and will go on with some encouragement.
Do you need to keep the master cylinder cap on while pumping brakes?
No it should be off.
hi do you replace the brake fluid resovior cap when you bleed each nipple.....thanks alan
Just put it on loose.
Do i replace the master cylinder cap in between wheels?
No or you will generate a vacuum and make it harder to bleed. Put the cap on loosely maybe as a dust cover.
Good video.
Tho I always cringe a bit when people turn the wheels while the car's stationary.
Has anyone tried repeatedly changing only the brake fluid in the reservoir method over a period of several weeks? Although not perfect, I believe this "Turkey-Baster" method does somewhat of a good job as a lot of the brake fluid eventually circulates throughout the entire system anyways and the brake lines will eventually fill with new brake fluid.
It doesn't really circulate, which is why you need to flush/bleed the at the brakes. Otherwise the fluid in the calipers will not get much circulation, certainly not after just a few weeks. But it would be better than nothing.
Do we need to close the fluid tank while pumping out the brake fluid?
No, and I suggest you don't because it will end up putting a vacuum in there. You could rest the cap on top just as a dust cover tho.
For 2008 mondeo mk4, 500 ml brake fluid it's enough ?
As I say in the video for most cars to do a full replace and flush/bleed you would want 1 L.
Amazing. You should be a teacher of some sort sir. Your way of explaining things is very easy to comprehend.
Never use an adjustable spanner, you run the risk of rounding the nipple hex. Use a crow foot spanner of the correct size.
I prefer to pressure up the master cylinder to about 15psi to bleed, too much hassle pumping brake.
Good job though!
I need to change my brake fluid, discs and pads, should I do the fluid before changing the discs and pads or the other way around?
Thanks
Do the pads before fluid.
@@CraigsDIY I've seen videos recently which recommending cracking the bleed valves prior to winding in the piston to avoid forcing fluid back down towards the master cylinder - seems reasonable to me, do you bother with that? Also what do you do with the old fluid you've collected, are there collections for it where you live or do you need to dispose of it at the tip?
This video's about bleeding the brakes, you wouldn't wind in pistons for that (only when replacing pads or calipers themselves, and yes crack the nipple). Auto shops usually have disposal bins for old oil, I use them.
The whole object of 'bleeding the brakes' is to make sure that there are no contaminants in the brake fluid - and that includes air. Therefore, if you do anything to a car's brakes, make sure that the last thing you do is 'bleed the brakes'. Note that if you worked on the brakes on only one wheel (unlikely), or the pair on one axle only, you still need to bleed the brakes on all FOUR wheels