Thank you Chris. That is so encouraging. It's great to hear feedback like this as it's hard to get traction on TH-cam and the video creation process is time consuming.
@@LawrenceMathon Basically I am following the instructions that come with the Zipbolt. I believe it is meant for ease in installation and to allow for micro adjustments on the install. If you drilled a half-inch hole you’d be threading the post onto the rod which is not how this system works. Thank you for the comment. Scott
Hi Scott, Thanks for showing us mere mortals that even the pros can make an error from time to time. The lesson to learn here is to fix the mistake and keep going. Have a great week.
i usually never comment on video's but , what a fantastic job of explaining how to do this not so easy task and in an easy to relate way ! Thank you it is very much appreciated !
Thank you so much for this video! It is very helpful to see how you used the Zipbolts. I am working on finishing my stair project, now to the point of railings and balusters.
Just installed the zip bolt system. That is before I saw your channel. I ran into all the problems you show on your video. Should have watched this before I started. 😂 but it turned out ok. Great video!
Thank you for the compliment. Glad it worked out. That particular zip bolt is the only one I have had complications with. Watching a video on something - after you do it and have complications - seems to be the norm. I've done that too! Cheers Scott
Great video. I am starting my first staircase renovation soon. I have half open, half wall like in this video but I want a hand rail all the way up. Thinking I need to use a base rail at the bottom and then do a couple of right angles in the hand rail so it can connect to the wall further up. Looks tricky, but I have always wanted an excuse to purchase a circular saw! ;)
That's a great reason to buy a saw and a nice reward for you at the same time. It is definitely doable if you take your time and think it out it. I'm sur it will look great. Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for reaching out. Scott
Thank you for allowing me to ask the dumb questions. @14:33 or so, you mention measuring from the bottom 3 3/16". Is it from the top or bottom? Looks like the top because the fill strip is opposite from where you're measuring.
Yes I am measuring from the top of the railing. I mispoke and didn't catch that in the edits. Kudos to you as you are at the first to comment on that. Shows you are paying attention. Thank you for commenting, Scott
@@scottearlsmithFTC your videos are helping me a lot as I am dumber than a post about woodworking… I am trying desperately to learn how to make a return on a handrail without screws or nails showing
@@johnpetrea John I have a number of videos on my channel on that. Glad they are helping. The Zipbolt products are good way to hide your connections. I came across them about 10 years ago doing a pre-finished maple railing system. I just couldn't bare the thought of putting a lag bolt with a plug into the joint; so I did a bit of research and found Zipbolt. If you take your time and practice on a 2x4 you'll be very happy with the end product. Good luck and remember that everyone starts out at ground zero with this stuff. Cheers Scott
Roughly 38.75...😂. Great work sir. I determine where the bottom of my rail sits on the bottom post and clamp a block there for my rail to sit on. I mark where the top of the rail sits on the half post. Set my rail on the block out near the edge of the bottom post, mark the top and leave an 1/16th strong for adjustment. Just a way to do it without marking from the rail sitting on the treads to avoid having to adjust for the half newel being out of plumb.
After reading the comments, I didn't notice anyone asking about the lower rail connection to the Newell post. I bought the Slipfix angled bolt (2 pkg). Can I use these for both the lower and top connections? If so, do I register the 1" Forstner hole for the connection to the bottom newell by measuring to the center of the 3/8" hole in the rail (from the top or bottom of that rail)? I am also wondering if this product is designed for both the top and bottom, is the bottom newell "disk" oriented the same as the top or upside down? The instructions explain only the top rail process. Thank you for helping me and so many more!
Thank you for your time, but I think I answered my own question(I just ordered the angled railbolt to connect the bottom rail to the Newell). It helps to actually read the instructions (somebody slap me!).
The Angled Slipfix is designed specifically for the upstairs newel connection. In this job when I did the bottom railing,, I simply used a countersunk screw from underneath the railing to connect the bottom rail into the post. Hope this helps. Cheers, Scott
Amen on the Jesus comment! Nice job regardless of what you think you boogered up! It's perfect in my opinion. Your videos have taught me a lot! Thanks!
Hi there - I’m planning to remodel a closed set of carpeted stairs with treads/risers that are made out of framing lumber. I want to switch to a stair runner down the center, false treads caps on each side, and white painted risers. What material do you suggest for overlaying the risers? Looks like there are “retro risers”. Any reason not to just use hardwood plywood? My dealer has 1/8”, ¼”, and ½” birch ply. Would ¼” be the best choice?
I've used 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2. Don't use 1/8" because 23 gauge pins will drive right through them. If you're painting the risers then MDF works as well, and it doesn't warp when you paint one side. Good luck with the project, Scott
Great job, and thanks for sharing. Is there any reason I can't use the angled railbolt for top and bottom, with the 1 inch hole from the side? My rail like a 2x4, with the wider dimension horizontal. It's an open stairwell so the plug would be on the side opposite the stairs.
That I don't know. If I was doing it I'd try it on a 2x4 mockup and see if it works before I messed up a railing and post. I assume you don't have a lamello invis or a Domino 700 with the joiners. Those two systems would work for sure.
@@scottearlsmithFTC I did buy a $4 2x4. Initially I thought I could just use a straight rail bolt, with lag drilled on angle into the newell. I don't know why that wouldn't work, but I can't find any videos from experienced folks like yourself. I don't mind it taking a long time and being tedious, I am not doing this for a living. thanks much for your vids, they've been very helpful. The upside-down newell trick worked great to determine post lengths. cheers
Newbie here...😂 What type of hand and bottom board is that? I didnt see this style available at my local stores, what could be used in their place? Apologies in advance for my dumb question!
Not a dumb question! 😀 That railing is distributed by Windsor Plywood in Canada. It is manufactured by Woodland Supply (also in Canada). Here is their website where they list that railing. Thanks for your question, Scott www.woodlandsupply.ca/products/?c=2&p=7
Vance, That's and old leather pouch I bought probably in 1977. Not sure of the brand. I recently took it to a shoe maker and had the belt made longer (I guess it shrank LOL) and some other repairs. It's a legend in itself. Thanks for commenting, Scott
By itself it's not code compliant. But we added a continuous handrail on the other side of the stairs and in my jurisdiction that makes the staircase code compliant.
since long ago I didn’t watch such instructive, professional and honest carpentry… big thanks and respect I will follow your channel with pleasure
Thank you Chris. That is so encouraging. It's great to hear feedback like this as it's hard to get traction on TH-cam and the video creation process is time consuming.
It's not about avoiding mistakes it's about how you go about fixing them so others can't spot them. Great job!
That is absolutely correct. I will mention that in one of my videos. Thank you for the comment and the encouragement. Scott
why is a 5/8 inch hole drilled into the bottom of the newel post when the zipbolt is only 1/2 inch diameter. Shouldn't the hole be 1/2 inch? Thanks LM
@@LawrenceMathon Basically I am following the instructions that come with the Zipbolt. I believe it is meant for ease in installation and to allow for micro adjustments on the install. If you drilled a half-inch hole you’d be threading the post onto the rod which is not how this system works. Thank you for the comment. Scott
Hi Scott,
Thanks for showing us mere mortals that even the pros can make an error from time to time.
The lesson to learn here is to fix the mistake and keep going.
Have a great week.
You got it bro. The secret is not in being perfect, but being able to fix your mistakes.
i usually never comment on video's but , what a fantastic job of explaining how to do this not so easy task and in an easy to relate way ! Thank you it is very much appreciated !
Well thank you for commenting on this video Mike! That makes the comment even more encouraging. Keep watching. Cheers, Scott
Thank you so much for this video! It is very helpful to see how you used the Zipbolts. I am working on finishing my stair project, now to the point of railings and balusters.
Good luck with that Ken. Lots of good videos on my channel for railings and balusters. Thank you for commenting and all the best, Scott
Just installed the zip bolt system. That is before I saw your channel. I ran into all the problems you show on your video. Should have watched this before I started. 😂 but it turned out ok. Great video!
Thank you for the compliment. Glad it worked out. That particular zip bolt is the only one I have had complications with. Watching a video on something - after you do it and have complications - seems to be the norm. I've done that too! Cheers Scott
Thanks again Scott I am building knowledge here! I am building cabinets doors & drawers but also building stair knowledge!
Thank you Jim! All the best with the cabinets!
Thank You for all your help!!
Thank you John!
Always the best videos are the ones that tell the truth of there work. Either way great video I watch this tip of videos to learn all I can
Thank you so much John! I appreciate the encouragement.
Thank You again for your help and videos
You're welcome John. Thank you for all your support! Cheers, Scott
Great video. I am starting my first staircase renovation soon. I have half open, half wall like in this video but I want a hand rail all the way up. Thinking I need to use a base rail at the bottom and then do a couple of right angles in the hand rail so it can connect to the wall further up. Looks tricky, but I have always wanted an excuse to purchase a circular saw! ;)
That's a great reason to buy a saw and a nice reward for you at the same time. It is definitely doable if you take your time and think it out it. I'm sur it will look great. Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for reaching out. Scott
Taking the time to add in the pitfalls is helpful. Wish me luck 😅
Thank you Steven. And good luck with your project. I'm sure it will turn out great. Cheers, Scott
Nice video thanks for the great information.
Thank you so much. I will check out your channel. Looks interesting! Cheers, Scott
Thank you for allowing me to ask the dumb questions. @14:33 or so, you mention measuring from the bottom 3 3/16". Is it from the top or bottom? Looks like the top because the fill strip is opposite from where you're measuring.
Yes I am measuring from the top of the railing. I mispoke and didn't catch that in the edits. Kudos to you as you are at the first to comment on that. Shows you are paying attention. Thank you for commenting, Scott
Great video Scott
Thank you Jason!
thanks for the tips
You're welcome. Thank you for the comment. Cheers, Scott
Thanks
Thank you Mike! Scott
Thank You very much
You're welcome John. Appreciate the comment. Scott
@@scottearlsmithFTC your videos are helping me a lot as I am dumber than a post about woodworking… I am trying desperately to learn how to make a return on a handrail without screws or nails showing
@@johnpetrea John I have a number of videos on my channel on that. Glad they are helping. The Zipbolt products are good way to hide your connections. I came across them about 10 years ago doing a pre-finished maple railing system. I just couldn't bare the thought of putting a lag bolt with a plug into the joint; so I did a bit of research and found Zipbolt. If you take your time and practice on a 2x4 you'll be very happy with the end product. Good luck and remember that everyone starts out at ground zero with this stuff. Cheers Scott
Roughly 38.75...😂. Great work sir. I determine where the bottom of my rail sits on the bottom post and clamp a block there for my rail to sit on. I mark where the top of the rail sits on the half post. Set my rail on the block out near the edge of the bottom post, mark the top and leave an 1/16th strong for adjustment. Just a way to do it without marking from the rail sitting on the treads to avoid having to adjust for the half newel being out of plumb.
Excellent tips Dan. Often I will just use a clamp on the post but your idea is better. Thanks for commenting. Scott
@scottearlsmithFTC Thanks Scott. Great videos. You definitely know what's up. 👍👍
@@DanVegas-wm9ik Pun intended I imagine! Hahaha. Thanks Dan, Scott
After reading the comments, I didn't notice anyone asking about the lower rail connection to the Newell post. I bought the Slipfix angled bolt (2 pkg). Can I use these for both the lower and top connections? If so, do I register the 1" Forstner hole for the connection to the bottom newell by measuring to the center of the 3/8" hole in the rail (from the top or bottom of that rail)? I am also wondering if this product is designed for both the top and bottom, is the bottom newell "disk" oriented the same as the top or upside down? The instructions explain only the top rail process. Thank you for helping me and so many more!
Thank you for your time, but I think I answered my own question(I just ordered the angled railbolt to connect the bottom rail to the Newell). It helps to actually read the instructions (somebody slap me!).
The Angled Slipfix is designed specifically for the upstairs newel connection. In this job when I did the bottom railing,, I simply used a countersunk screw from underneath the railing to connect the bottom rail into the post. Hope this helps. Cheers, Scott
Amen on the Jesus comment! Nice job regardless of what you think you boogered up! It's perfect in my opinion. Your videos have taught me a lot! Thanks!
You're welcome! And thank you for the comment. "In all your ways acknowledge Him, and He will make your paths straight."
Hi there - I’m planning to remodel a closed set of carpeted stairs with treads/risers that are made out of framing lumber. I want to switch to a stair runner down the center, false treads caps on each side, and white painted risers.
What material do you suggest for overlaying the risers? Looks like there are “retro risers”. Any reason not to just use hardwood plywood? My dealer has 1/8”, ¼”, and ½” birch ply. Would ¼” be the best choice?
I've used 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2. Don't use 1/8" because 23 gauge pins will drive right through them. If you're painting the risers then MDF works as well, and it doesn't warp when you paint one side. Good luck with the project, Scott
Scott where do you show installing the female portion of the zipbolt to piece mounted on the wall
In the Balcony Railing Install with Railbolts video. Here's a link: th-cam.com/video/eSzbB-5yOyc/w-d-xo.html Thx Scott
@@scottearlsmithFTC
Scott, Thanks for getting back to me so quickly, your videos are great!
@@christopherhayes4962 thank youi and you are so welcome! Cheers, Scott
Does it make sense to use zip bolt on a hollow box newel? Maybe i should add blocking inside
@@jamesbeaulieu6195 It does make sense and yes, I would add blocking if possible.
Great video boss. Thank you! New subscriber to ur channel! Cheers 🍻
Thank you Jasser. I appreciate the encouraging comment and the sub. Enjoy the videos!!!
Great job, and thanks for sharing. Is there any reason I can't use the angled railbolt for top and bottom, with the 1 inch hole from the side? My rail like a 2x4, with the wider dimension horizontal. It's an open stairwell so the plug would be on the side opposite the stairs.
That I don't know. If I was doing it I'd try it on a 2x4 mockup and see if it works before I messed up a railing and post. I assume you don't have a lamello invis or a Domino 700 with the joiners. Those two systems would work for sure.
@@scottearlsmithFTC I did buy a $4 2x4. Initially I thought I could just use a straight rail bolt, with lag drilled on angle into the newell. I don't know why that wouldn't work, but I can't find any videos from experienced folks like yourself. I don't mind it taking a long time and being tedious, I am not doing this for a living. thanks much for your vids, they've been very helpful. The upside-down newell trick worked great to determine post lengths. cheers
I attached a 37 degree 2x4 to a scrap piece of post. 1 inch Forstner hold drilled from the side. Worked fine! Thanks, Scott!
@@mikehoncho7226 thanks for the feedback Mike. I'm glad it worked! Who says old dogs (me) can't learn new tricks.
Newbie here...😂 What type of hand and bottom board is that? I didnt see this style available at my local stores, what could be used in their place? Apologies in advance for my dumb question!
Not a dumb question! 😀 That railing is distributed by Windsor Plywood in Canada. It is manufactured by Woodland Supply (also in Canada). Here is their website where they list that railing. Thanks for your question, Scott www.woodlandsupply.ca/products/?c=2&p=7
Thank you! Your videos are helping so many🙏🏻
Thank you so much. That is encouraging, Scott@@destineeeverhart7
What brand toolbelt do you have ?
Vance, That's and old leather pouch I bought probably in 1977. Not sure of the brand. I recently took it to a shoe maker and had the belt made longer (I guess it shrank LOL) and some other repairs. It's a legend in itself. Thanks for commenting, Scott
I would love to hire you…. Where are you located? I’m in Dallas Tx
I'm in Thunder Bay Ontario. North shore of Lake Superior. Would love to see the Big D someday, but it's a 20 hour drive. Glad you like the video.
Unfortunately that rail is not code compliant. Rails must be continuous to the top with no break.
By itself it's not code compliant. But we added a continuous handrail on the other side of the stairs and in my jurisdiction that makes the staircase code compliant.
Watching this because i know i will make all possible mistake
Good luck! Cheers, Scott