You only needed a *single* micro switch. Both are connecting to the same common -12V so we only need to worry about any interaction when the switch is open. There is a diode (LED) in the slew rate control (Fig. 1 - 11:51) circuit already so it is protected so adding another diode to the circuit before the analog switch (11:36) may be needed to protect it from being pulled up from the slew rate control circuit. In any case this would make a good video showing some breadboard circuit analysis using a scope. And finding a circuit fix would be *way more interesting* than just doing that brute force hardware mod. IMHO.
@@stephenstebbing9460 - OK, a little wishful thinking on my part. But Julian is a good guy and I'm just trying to help him out a bit with a few suggests. And it would be an easy _money in the bank_ video to make. He's got the equipment and know how to investigate this. Heck he probably has these circuits built up on breadboards already and just needs to add the switch and diodes to try it out. Easy money.
@@JulianIlett Nah you only need two wires to the foot switch to activate the relay that would be installed on the pcb inside the main housing. Then there would be no reason to modify the foot pedal at all.
You could have used a flat top LED. Most of them are shorter too, so you should be able to get it flush with the surface. Or file down a domed top, for a one off project. Just a thought.
Take this apart "more further" - excellent!!! There has been a distinct lack of Julianisms lately and the world was becoming wrapped in a damp veil of normality. This may have been asked before, but what does the man best known for having deep discharges in his garden, want with a vocoder? Is this a prelude to mind-altering videos, maybe even full length features? The well painted little people of Breadboardville face the wrath of VocoderMan. He is armed with the fearsome wrong screwdriver, they have only a jar of cut off leads and some discarded DuPont connectors - can they possibly survive??? Coming soon to a video device near you... (a JLCPCB production)
You might have just used the single contacts in the switch as purchased. Add a single diode to the base of the transistor on the Excitation board to connect to the (now) common single switch. This diode in combination with the LED on the mixer would completely isolate the two separate circuits. I've used this sort of "diode-OR gate" solution for more than 40 years. No mechanics required.
If you want to pay the shipping on 3m of cable, then I'm sure they would sell you a different version. But yes, it does look like it was intended for another product and they cut it short, otherwise why fit a cable at all.
I'm leery about the switch ratings. What's generally unappreciated is that switches have a MINIMUM rating as well. If your voltage and current falls below that, the current won't be able to break though any oxidation layer and switch won't be reliable in the long-term. I experienced this first hand with a system that used Micro Switches to control TTL electronics. These switches will probability work until you get board with it, but won't last in the long run. Proper design would call for gold-plated contacts (gold doesn't oxidize).
Correct me if I am wrong, but couldn't you tie both circuits to the same switch? You don't need two switches, one will suffice. No need to worry about synchronizing the two actuators. If you have two switches and the COM of both are connected to -12VDC rail then the NO contacts will essentially be the same point electrically when both of the switches are activated. Simply attach two wires to the NO contact to feed to the appropriate circuit as per the schematic.
That will work when the switch is closed, but you have to worry that you're still tying two parts of the circuit together when the switch is open. However, the suggestion to use a pair of diodes to isolate them seems like it should work.
Fun fact: in 1988 when I was not being dragged around and poked into doing actual real work, I used to disassemble rotary dial telephone instruments so that I could get my hands on the “standard” microswitches that were contained within... [I was a trainee at the time, so often got a pile of “faulty”, “old” or “unknown state” phones to try to “repair” dumped in front of me...].
Julian. you do realize the listing said 1 NC and 1 NO right? One switch will be normally open and one will be normally closed? I could be wrong about the listing entirely but I'd double check the switches properly work.
Both NC NC because it's a momentary switch pedal. I bought three of those because it said on/off not momentary and then when I got them I had to replace the switches because I had to hold the pedal down to get what I was using to stay on was so frustrating!! but I guess that's what you get for paying what we pay 😂 I like the videos they keeps me entertained while I'm working. Keep up the good work!
Those switches look identical to the ones they use in microwave ovens. It's the switch that use when the door is closed, when the doors open it shuts off.
I would have gone with the back - get a small rectangular LED like the ones in level meters, shave a bit off one side of the back edge of the moving part of the pedal, and let it stick out there. It's great that the LED fits under your toes, but I really can't see being sock footed (or barefoot) on stage somewhere...
I think the two switches are going to disengage the moment you lift your foot up. I think maybe the original switch was push down to turn on and it stays on. Push down to turn off and then it stays off. I don't know for sure?
You could bulk out the underside of the pedal so the led is flush with the top, i would even file the top of the led to make it flat I have also had success with filling the hole with epoxy and sticking a led to the underside
Looking at this situation, I was thinking: fill the hole with epoxy, but mount the LED on the bottom of the switch, pointing at the hole. That way you don't need to have excess wiring between top/bottom plates.
Having the supply rail on a jack connector, this is not very good or safe! The low voltage will not damage humans, but a short may damage electronic parts. Another solution would be a relay triggered by the foot switch and then no modifications would be needed, except a longer cable. Why do they even bother with a cable, you have to replace it anyway. I would prefer a 2 meter cable or no cable. The led in the switch is a bit silly, it would work better in your front panel.
I bought a generic usb pedal. The driver that was provided allows me basic functions such as choosing a keyboard or mouse key. However, there is no key repeat while I'm pressing down the pedal, it only triggers once. Is it possible to the key to be held while I am pressing the pedal and released when I stop pressing it. Is there any setting in Windows 10 that I can enable the "holding button" instead of just pressing? I tried to use the PCSENSOR software, but the USB pedal I bought is not recognized by this software. I also tried to look for a universal software for USB pedals but without success.
Why not just use fets? Or if you want to be old school a DPDT relay and controll the gates / coil with the foot switch? Instead of hacking a foot switch with huge screws? It would also eliminate any delay between the switches ... sometimes your solutions are so weird :(
Yes, I have scrapped several and salvaged these switches, haven't found a use for them yet though I'm thinking limit switches on a CNC machine might be one use for them...
An LED on the foot switch...if your playing merrily away do you need to look down an check if you've pressed the footswitch or not ?...just wondering cos aint got a musical bone in my body, I suppose if you weren't sure that the switch or your foot was working it would be invaluable or I suppose it does show you've plugged it in so diagnostically relevant...teheh!..sorry!.. had visions of you manicaly vocoding (?) with your head under a table checking the LED.
Cool. It's even the proper Kekistani green, just like Pepe! LOL. pepethefrogfaith.wordpress.com/ OK, enough of the memes. I'm using one of those switches for my dual pulse spot welder. Going with the Dan Conner build. The switches appear to be durable, and they're considerably less expensive than their nearest competitor at $15. After that, the next tiers are $30, then $54.
Top Kek.
You only needed a *single* micro switch. Both are connecting to the same common -12V so we only need to worry about any interaction when the switch is open. There is a diode (LED) in the slew rate control (Fig. 1 - 11:51) circuit already so it is protected so adding another diode to the circuit before the analog switch (11:36) may be needed to protect it from being pulled up from the slew rate control circuit.
In any case this would make a good video showing some breadboard circuit analysis using a scope. And finding a circuit fix would be *way more interesting* than just doing that brute force hardware mod. IMHO.
@@stephenstebbing9460 - OK, a little wishful thinking on my part. But Julian is a good guy and I'm just trying to help him out a bit with a few suggests. And it would be an easy _money in the bank_ video to make. He's got the equipment and know how to investigate this. Heck he probably has these circuits built up on breadboards already and just needs to add the switch and diodes to try it out. Easy money.
Stephen, why not start your own TH-cam channel - you have a lot to say - that's all you need :)
OMFG that guy chats shit 😂😂😂
Why not use the one switch to flip a relay? That way you don't have one switch activating first.
I'd need another wire to supply power to the relay.
@@JulianIlett Nah you only need two wires to the foot switch to activate the relay that would be installed on the pcb inside the main housing. Then there would be no reason to modify the foot pedal at all.
Add a couple of isolation diodes and just use the original single pole switch.
Yeah, that should work - thanks Bill.
You could have used a flat top LED. Most of them are shorter too, so you should be able to get it flush with the surface. Or file down a domed top, for a one off project. Just a thought.
I would have put the LED as a front panel LED on the main electronics box. I have no idea why you'd want the LED on the foot switch itself.
Take this apart "more further" - excellent!!!
There has been a distinct lack of Julianisms lately and the world was becoming wrapped in a damp veil of normality.
This may have been asked before, but what does the man best known for having deep discharges in his garden, want with a vocoder?
Is this a prelude to mind-altering videos, maybe even full length features?
The well painted little people of Breadboardville face the wrath of VocoderMan. He is armed with the fearsome wrong screwdriver, they have only a jar of cut off leads and some discarded DuPont connectors - can they possibly survive???
Coming soon to a video device near you... (a JLCPCB production)
You might have just used the single contacts in the switch as purchased. Add a single diode to the base of the transistor on the Excitation board to connect to the (now) common single switch. This diode in combination with the LED on the mixer would completely isolate the two separate circuits. I've used this sort of "diode-OR gate" solution for more than 40 years. No mechanics required.
I might try that
a relay would have made this a great deal easier!!!
just about to post this. :)
Always makes you wonder where products like this originally came from. The short cable is useless, so what product was it cut off?
If you want to pay the shipping on 3m of cable, then I'm sure they would sell you a different version.
But yes, it does look like it was intended for another product and they cut it short, otherwise why fit a cable at all.
I'm leery about the switch ratings. What's generally unappreciated is that switches have a MINIMUM rating as well. If your voltage and current falls below that, the current won't be able to break though any oxidation layer and switch won't be reliable in the long-term. I experienced this first hand with a system that used Micro Switches to control TTL electronics. These switches will probability work until you get board with it, but won't last in the long run. Proper design would call for gold-plated contacts (gold doesn't oxidize).
Correct me if I am wrong, but couldn't you tie both circuits to the same switch? You don't need two switches, one will suffice. No need to worry about synchronizing the two actuators.
If you have two switches and the COM of both are connected to -12VDC rail then the NO contacts will essentially be the same point electrically when both of the switches are activated. Simply attach two wires to the NO contact to feed to the appropriate circuit as per the schematic.
That will work when the switch is closed, but you have to worry that you're still tying two parts of the circuit together when the switch is open. However, the suggestion to use a pair of diodes to isolate them seems like it should work.
Fun fact: in 1988 when I was not being dragged around and poked into doing actual real work, I used to disassemble rotary dial telephone instruments so that I could get my hands on the “standard” microswitches that were contained within... [I was a trainee at the time, so often got a pile of “faulty”, “old” or “unknown state” phones to try to “repair” dumped in front of me...].
Julian. you do realize the listing said 1 NC and 1 NO right? One switch will be normally open and one will be normally closed? I could be wrong about the listing entirely but I'd double check the switches properly work.
Both NC NC because it's a momentary switch pedal. I bought three of those because it said on/off not momentary and then when I got them I had to replace the switches because I had to hold the pedal down to get what I was using to stay on was so frustrating!! but I guess that's what you get for paying what we pay 😂 I like the videos they keeps me entertained while I'm working. Keep up the good work!
Those switches look identical to the ones they use in microwave ovens. It's the switch that use when the door is closed, when the doors open it shuts off.
I would have put the LED on the front panel. It's not terribly useful to have an indicator on a foot switch but I do agree that it looks very retro.
I would have gone with the back - get a small rectangular LED like the ones in level meters, shave a bit off one side of the back edge of the moving part of the pedal, and let it stick out there. It's great that the LED fits under your toes, but I really can't see being sock footed (or barefoot) on stage somewhere...
I think the two switches are going to disengage the moment you lift your foot up.
I think maybe the original switch was push down to turn on and it stays on.
Push down to turn off and then it stays off. I don't know for sure?
You could bulk out the underside of the pedal so the led is flush with the top, i would even file the top of the led to make it flat
I have also had success with filling the hole with epoxy and sticking a led to the underside
I'm with you on filing off the top of the LED. If it becomes a problem, I'll try that.
Looking at this situation, I was thinking: fill the hole with epoxy, but mount the LED on the bottom of the switch, pointing at the hole. That way you don't need to have excess wiring between top/bottom plates.
They should invent LEDs with a flat top...
There are flat top LED's, but just for one project, it's easy enough to file an existing one
Where's the link? I don't need a foot pedal, but I should probably still praise Kek, just to be on the safe side.
Bought for of them to make a foot controlled mp3 player for a friend who plays backing tracks on it at weddings
Yes, Shenzen makes 'what would have been uneconomic' years ago... 'simples' :)
I'm surprised to didn't make a custom pedal. Sometimes the easy way out leads to going all in.
Having the supply rail on a jack connector, this is not very good or safe! The low voltage will not damage humans, but a short may damage electronic parts.
Another solution would be a relay triggered by the foot switch and then no modifications would be needed, except a longer cable. Why do they even bother with a cable, you have to replace it anyway. I would prefer a 2 meter cable or no cable.
The led in the switch is a bit silly, it would work better in your front panel.
a led underneath your foot? just to check if all your toes are still there??
In World of Warcraft's chat, 'kek' actually means LOL for the opposing faction xD
kik
Typo of lol.
I guess people ironically misspelled the typo to kek...
@@rich1051414 Nope. Check knowyourmeme.com/memes/kek for more info.
Top kek
Replacing the plastic bracket with a metal one would be the way to go.
I bought a generic usb pedal. The driver that was provided allows me basic functions such as choosing a keyboard or mouse key. However, there is no key repeat while I'm pressing down the pedal, it only triggers once. Is it possible to the key to be held while I am pressing the pedal and released when I stop pressing it. Is there any setting in Windows 10 that I can enable the "holding button" instead of just pressing? I tried to use the PCSENSOR software, but the USB pedal I bought is not recognized by this software. I also tried to look for a universal software for USB pedals but without success.
OMG Is that the switch that Kek used to bring light from the darkness and to defeat Hillary?
This will definitely allow you to dispense keks.
Free Kekistan!
why should the led be in the foot pedal and not in the top unit which you can see?
Why not just use fets? Or if you want to be old school a DPDT relay and controll the gates / coil with the foot switch? Instead of hacking a foot switch with huge screws?
It would also eliminate any delay between the switches ... sometimes your solutions are so weird :(
Top kek! :P
Can find this type of switches in Microwave Ovens........Door latch switch......
Yes, I have scrapped several and salvaged these switches, haven't found a use for them yet though I'm thinking limit switches on a CNC machine might be one use for them...
does it bother anyone that on the bottom it says red black white. but the actual wires are red, yellow, and green.
I would put the LED on the cable somehow
An LED on the foot switch...if your playing merrily away do you need to look down an check if you've pressed the footswitch or not ?...just wondering cos aint got a musical bone in my body, I suppose if you weren't sure that the switch or your foot was working it would be invaluable or I suppose it does show you've plugged it in so diagnostically relevant...teheh!..sorry!.. had visions of you manicaly vocoding (?) with your head under a table checking the LED.
I don't know either :)
I think I would have mounted the foot switch LED indicator on the front panel instead of the foot switch itself, but to each his own.
make a vim clutch out of it
Kek as in Kekistan lol 🤣😂
vive le Kekistan! kek.
A fine product of kekistan !
I love you !!!
That golden sticker is misleading.
Yeah, all the wire colours are wrong :)
LOL, long live kekistan! down with the normies
Me, i'd have used a high speed relay, But then I love relay logic ;)
Cool. It's even the proper Kekistani green, just like Pepe! LOL. pepethefrogfaith.wordpress.com/ OK, enough of the memes.
I'm using one of those switches for my dual pulse spot welder. Going with the Dan Conner build. The switches appear to be durable, and they're considerably less expensive than their nearest competitor at $15. After that, the next tiers are $30, then $54.
Lol... right?
I guess he'll hook it up to a huge horn or something :P (Still watching)
Praise Kek!
a bit cheapie and plasticky but if it does the job then why not. I would have used bolts rather than those screws !
kek
Kekistan switch? Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Demonetised in 3... 2...1... lol