Well dang Mr Chris, I was hoping to see the ole gal out in the field! I Can totally understand your views though, time is money!! If it wasn't so wide, I would venture up and take it off your hands ,😉 That diesel can be a touch aggravating to start, and they do slobber alot "unburnt" fuel if not ran at a pretty good pace. Lots if idling will add to that. The shifter most likely is an adjustment and lubricant issue. My K had the same shifter style and wouldn't go in 1 or R either. Lots of lube and some adjustments did the trick. The hydraulic block on those series do leak, o-rings usually take care of that. The unload auger belt will drive a man crazy flopping over there like that 🤣 The shaft could be some work, depending so I understand. I would totally take it off your hands if you were closer. The transport would kill me. Keep us posted, I hope it all works out in the end in your favor sir!! I love the ole gleaners!! You should be able to sell it outright especially with a diesel and 30" corn head. Thank you sir for bringing us along! Look fwd to seeing whats next!! 😁😁👌🏻👌🏻🍉🍉🌽🌽
Nelson I think your advice is brilliant, Mr Chris must make the call but I see some life left on it if someone really like the old Gleaners for restorations and use again
I appreciate the advice more than you know, and will definitely investigate things further. I bet we could disassemble it into manageable pieces for transportation to NC 😉😁 Thank you my friend!!
Good evening Ed! It is unfortunate that it has developed more issues than it originally had when we bought it. Maybe sitting all winter caused some gremlins....
In south central Minnesota Gleaner combines were common. Having said that we had 3 used IH combines of the same model. Interchangeable parts. Thank you Chris.
All one hydraulics on the side under the radiator -- lift , variable speed shiv (under unloading auger), power steering ! shifters go Directly down to the transmission / front diff can get to under header/ feeder housing get under and spray all the linkages and where the rods go into the trans.!!!! main brake and clutch on different sides on the trans. the shifter linkages has a bunch of triangle direction change plates. well at least 2. may be worn out. you can make them the shaft that is broke is on the feeder chain that brings the material back to the straw walkers i think think it is just a strait shaft with sets for chain sprockets! i have a full manual for it and a parts manual not in great shape but !!! ran one of the old girls many years dad had 3 of them at different times on on propane the engine by itself ought to be worth a grand to someone!! Hope you dont give up on the old girl sound like she runs pretty good , all the wiring runs on the radiator side of the combine ,big red light is the trap door on the thrashing cylinder btw
Just my opinion, I’d send that combine down the road and focus on less stressful/complex projects and machinery that can turn a profit. Best of luck with your decision… 👍
That's the curse of most old combines that you're dealing with. I'd say auction it, but don't think you'll get your money back. That's about a $200 - $300 combine in SEWI. Maybe $100 ea per head. The manuals might bring around $20. Parting it out may be the way to go. Get rid of what you know is good & scrap the rest. OR.... get your money from the parts & turn the rest of the combine into an amusement piece for the kids. Gut out the separator unit & put in a slide that ends out the back or something. 🤔 I'm fairly certain that's been done before too. And.... you'd have the only one in the area.
The shaft thats broken/bent is the drive for the raddle chain. Shouldnt be too bad to rplace. To get it to shift into first or reverse the other side has to be perfectly centered in neutral. Not sure why it sticking in gear unless its just the linkage letting it go too far.
I'm not sure about combines, but you said it wouldn't start and it was in gear. my Volvo 240 has a "shiftlock" which is a series of electronic connectors that tells the computer that the car is in gear and it will not start. I had to pull my shifter out, clean the connectors, tighten the bolts (this caused me to have "sloppy" shifting and I believe that this was the culprit), and replace the missing nylon bushings in the shifter linkage to the transmission. Starting problem solved. Maybe there is something similar on your tractor? Hopefully your transmission isn't failing.
@@frrapp2366 @frrapp2366 It's not a lock as in a door lock. It's an electrical contact point. Depending on were the shifter is determines if there is a flow of electricity or not. That signal gets sent to the vehicles computer and if it's not in park or the computer thinks it's not in park then the car will not start. It's a more complex system than let's say a riding lawn mowers safety switch when the rider leaves the seat, thereby releasing the switch and cutting power to the engine. There is also a safety switch in mowers clutch / brake pedal that prevents current from going to the engine when the pedal is not depressed at startup. If the combine has some kind of electrical safety device on it then it would probably be hidden within the shifter or the toe clutch / brake pedal. If a previous owner had bypassed such a switch rather than replacing it, then this could make diagnosing the no start much harder even though it doesn't have a computer to further complicate matters.
I am not sure if this combine has that type of safety switch, but is something I will look in to. I am really not sure about the transmission, but it seems to be more than just a linkage issue. Thanks for the advice!!
@@mrpete9958 again pete it has no shifter lock, no computer not even any safeties on the seat or such!!!! i ran one for many years, dad had 2 and my brother n law had one just like it tho a wheat machine with a 18ft header . it will start with the machine in a gear and the clutch out, or even with the thrasher engaged !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Chris, how were you planning to use this machine? Corn, soybeans, wheat, oats? Depending on how many acres you have maybe an old pull type unit would do the job. For the first two years I shelled organic corn I used a two row New Idea corn picker with a sheller. Got the job done fine for 10-15 acres.
I was going to harvest some corn and maybe rye. I have only seen one of those new idea picker/shellers before. I sure wouldn't mind having one though, and it would do just fine. Now you've got me thinking... Thank you Pete!
Chris I've heard there's not many things more expensive than a cheap combine. That machine looks very fixable but a man needs the time. You don't have too much money into it so no one would blame you for scraping it and moving on.
It’s not gone to far still worth fixing it as it is you can get all the parts you will need out of okly combine out of Oxford Nc but will be cheaper in long term to fix what you got so you don’t have to to go thow it again on another one and on them most of the time getting it stuck in gear is the wages needs to be adjusted and you gat that for a good price for what it is I gave 3500 for one that needed 4 tires and a lot of other work to get going then I had to move it all home lol
Blessed wishes with whichever way you go Chris, as they say, farming is a gamble. Hope you have a blessed day and week ahead my friend.
I can definitely agree with that statement. Sometimes it might be better to just play the lottery 🤪 Thank you Tony!!
Well dang Mr Chris, I was hoping to see the ole gal out in the field! I Can totally understand your views though, time is money!! If it wasn't so wide, I would venture up and take it off your hands ,😉
That diesel can be a touch aggravating to start, and they do slobber alot "unburnt" fuel if not ran at a pretty good pace. Lots if idling will add to that. The shifter most likely is an adjustment and lubricant issue. My K had the same shifter style and wouldn't go in 1 or R either. Lots of lube and some adjustments did the trick. The hydraulic block on those series do leak, o-rings usually take care of that. The unload auger belt will drive a man crazy flopping over there like that 🤣 The shaft could be some work, depending so I understand. I would totally take it off your hands if you were closer. The transport would kill me.
Keep us posted, I hope it all works out in the end in your favor sir!! I love the ole gleaners!! You should be able to sell it outright especially with a diesel and 30" corn head. Thank you sir for bringing us along! Look fwd to seeing whats next!! 😁😁👌🏻👌🏻🍉🍉🌽🌽
Nelson I think your advice is brilliant, Mr Chris must make the call but I see some life left on it if someone really like the old Gleaners for restorations and use again
@@jankotze1959 Thank you Mr Jan!! 😁
I appreciate the advice more than you know, and will definitely investigate things further. I bet we could disassemble it into manageable pieces for transportation to NC 😉😁 Thank you my friend!!
@@dehavenfamilyfarm 😉😉😁😁👍🏻👍🏻👌🏻👌🏻🤔🤔
Good morning Chris ☕☕☕
It's too bad the ol gal needs so much love..
Good evening Ed! It is unfortunate that it has developed more issues than it originally had when we bought it. Maybe sitting all winter caused some gremlins....
@@dehavenfamilyfarm kinda like our Versatile... Wish I had a competent person to have come in and fix it up! But.... For now, it's on the list...
@GosselinFarmsEdGosselin don't feel bad, I have a long list too 😆
Chris that is a classic old machine, sorry it disappoint you at this time, I am sure someone will be interested in that
It sure is a piece of history. Hopefully we can figure out how to keep it going. Thank you Jan 🙂
In south central Minnesota Gleaner combines were common. Having said that we had 3 used IH combines of the same model. Interchangeable parts.
Thank you Chris.
Having parts machines on hand is really the best thing- especially when dealing with old equipment. Wish I had another one for parts... Thanks Bryce 🙂
Good morning Chris ☕☕☕
Good evening! I didn't get to comments early 😁
Looks like a good project. Good luck with which ever way you go.
Thank you!
Somewhere on youtube i seen a Durby with those in some fair😮
I think I've seen something like that as well. Thanks!
All one hydraulics on the side under the radiator -- lift , variable speed shiv (under unloading auger), power steering ! shifters go Directly down to the transmission / front diff can get to under header/ feeder housing get under and spray all the linkages and where the rods go into the trans.!!!! main brake and clutch on different sides on the trans. the shifter linkages has a bunch of triangle direction change plates. well at least 2. may be worn out. you can make them the shaft that is broke is on the feeder chain that brings the material back to the straw walkers i think think it is just a strait shaft with sets for chain sprockets! i have a full manual for it and a parts manual not in great shape but !!! ran one of the old girls many years dad had 3 of them at different times on on propane the engine by itself ought to be worth a grand to someone!! Hope you dont give up on the old girl sound like she runs pretty good , all the wiring runs on the radiator side of the combine ,big red light is the trap door on the thrashing cylinder btw
This info is really helpful- thank you for taking the time to comment 🙂 You have given me a list of things I will look in to.
Just my opinion, I’d send that combine down the road and focus on less stressful/complex projects and machinery that can turn a profit. Best of luck with your decision… 👍
Absolutely great advice- that is the direction I am leaning. Thank you!
Looks very usable , old diesel fuel smokes don't be afraid to Power Service it.
That's the curse of most old combines that you're dealing with. I'd say auction it, but don't think you'll get your money back. That's about a $200 - $300 combine in SEWI. Maybe $100 ea per head. The manuals might bring around $20. Parting it out may be the way to go. Get rid of what you know is good & scrap the rest. OR.... get your money from the parts & turn the rest of the combine into an amusement piece for the kids. Gut out the separator unit & put in a slide that ends out the back or something. 🤔 I'm fairly certain that's been done before too. And.... you'd have the only one in the area.
Wow, prices are really low in your area. Either that or I paid way to much! The idea of it becoming an attraction is one we are considering. Thanks!!!
Keiter farm equipment parts yard north of Harrisburg has all the parts you would need
Thank you for the info!
The shaft thats broken/bent is the drive for the raddle chain. Shouldnt be too bad to rplace. To get it to shift into first or reverse the other side has to be perfectly centered in neutral. Not sure why it sticking in gear unless its just the linkage letting it go too far.
Thanks for the info!!
I'm not sure about combines, but you said it wouldn't start and it was in gear. my Volvo 240 has a "shiftlock" which is a series of electronic connectors that tells the computer that the car is in gear and it will not start. I had to pull my shifter out, clean the connectors, tighten the bolts (this caused me to have "sloppy" shifting and I believe that this was the culprit), and replace the missing nylon bushings in the shifter linkage to the transmission. Starting problem solved. Maybe there is something similar on your tractor? Hopefully your transmission isn't failing.
no lock on the gleaner g all manual linkage to the transmission/ drive axle (all one unit/bolted together)
@@frrapp2366 @frrapp2366 It's not a lock as in a door lock. It's an electrical contact point. Depending on were the shifter is determines if there is a flow of electricity or not. That signal gets sent to the vehicles computer and if it's not in park or the computer thinks it's not in park then the car will not start. It's a more complex system than let's say a riding lawn mowers safety switch when the rider leaves the seat, thereby releasing the switch and cutting power to the engine. There is also a safety switch in mowers clutch / brake pedal that prevents current from going to the engine when the pedal is not depressed at startup. If the combine has some kind of electrical safety device on it then it would probably be hidden within the shifter or the toe clutch / brake pedal. If a previous owner had bypassed such a switch rather than replacing it, then this could make diagnosing the no start much harder even though it doesn't have a computer to further complicate matters.
I am not sure if this combine has that type of safety switch, but is something I will look in to. I am really not sure about the transmission, but it seems to be more than just a linkage issue. Thanks for the advice!!
@@mrpete9958 again pete it has no shifter lock, no computer not even any safeties on the seat or such!!!! i ran one for many years, dad had 2 and my brother n law had one just like it tho a wheat machine with a 18ft header . it will start with the machine in a gear and the clutch out, or even with the thrasher engaged !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Chris, how were you planning to use this machine? Corn, soybeans, wheat, oats? Depending on how many acres you have maybe an old pull type unit would do the job. For the first two years I shelled organic corn I used a two row New Idea corn picker with a sheller. Got the job done fine for 10-15 acres.
I was going to harvest some corn and maybe rye. I have only seen one of those new idea picker/shellers before. I sure wouldn't mind having one though, and it would do just fine. Now you've got me thinking... Thank you Pete!
Chris I've heard there's not many things more expensive than a cheap combine. That machine looks very fixable but a man needs the time. You don't have too much money into it so no one would blame you for scraping it and moving on.
That's definitely true! I may leave it until winter and try to start fixing things. Thanks 🙂
It’s not gone to far still worth fixing it as it is you can get all the parts you will need out of okly combine out of Oxford Nc but will be cheaper in long term to fix what you got so you don’t have to to go thow it again on another one and on them most of the time getting it stuck in gear is the wages needs to be adjusted and you gat that for a good price for what it is I gave 3500 for one that needed 4 tires and a lot of other work to get going then I had to move it all home lol
I have a hydrostatic drive pump off of a G cleaner. Hydrostat Drive.. if anyone is interested in it. 🤷🏻♂️👨🌾
Put in on tractor house for $2,500 or best offer you’ll be surprised
I might try that, though I think their ads are getting a bit pricey. Thanks Andy!
Did you decide what you are going to do with combine I my be interested
@@mrutledge9853 not really. We wouldn't mind selling it.