Dear Terry, I have been missing your fantastic YT videos. Thank you for this nice video, as I also have an archive of thousands of photos from 1976 -2005. Thank you!
I have a very similar set up,except without the light, I have one from a different digitising set up. I also use the 30 mm macro instead of the 60mm. The main thing I have found using the high res mode on HP5 that’s been pushed two stops is it tends to smooth out the grain. So I use my old Canon full-frame for that as it retains the grain. But high res with my old Kodachrome slides is fantastic. One of my earliest attempts, years ago, at digitising slides was with an old slide duplicator I found on eBay for a couple of quid, but this JJC devise is much better and more versatile. And a fraction of the cost of Nikon’s version, and a whole lot quicker and better than my old Nikon Coolscan 4000.
Thank you very much Terry. This is the exact device and tutorial I've been looking for. I've recently got back into 35mm film and wanted a cost effective way to scan the negatives. I also have the very same Olympus OM-D EM1 Mark II and various adapted 1:1 macro lenses ( 55mm Sigma, 60mm Yongnuo and 90mm Tamron ). Your results are amazing and I'm convinced I now don't need to spends hundreds of pounds on a scanner. Thanks for the inspiration.
Hi Terry, I am a similar age bracket to you and my first 35 mm camera was a Kodak Retina (forgotten the actual model, it was German made with Schneider 50m f3.5). I took it to New Zealand in 1966 for a working holiday and it produced terrific images with Kodachrome 25 asa. most of my images after that were positives right up till I swapped to digital in 2006 . My first camera was a Box Brownie 620 for my 6th birthday so I too have lots of unsorted film. I also use the JJC digitising adapter and find it very convenient and as you mentioned the image quality is far superior to other forms of digitising. I have MFT lumix G9 20mp and also have EOS R 30mp though the G9 at 80mp hi res gives better results. I have also owned several medium format film cameras, so I use a 120 film mask in much the same fashion though I use my smart phone with mask elevated about 10ml to provide a bright lightsource. Although I have several thousand images of my own I have also inherited about 10 thousand images from my late father's collection which will keep me busy for a while. My father was a professional photographer with his own studio in Sydney, he was also the Ilford Film NSW State rep and his first 35mm camera was the Oska Barnak Leica ( I have a 111f Leica in my collection). I have seen a few of your videos and am delighted to see this video and your beautilul digitized results, thank you and keep up the good work
A pleasure to see a new video on this channel! Coincidentally I bought the JCC one that goes without the adaptor for macro lenses. It works good enough for me for 30€, I don't have old negatives and I’ve been experimenting with film lately.
Hi Sir, thanks for recommending JJC FDA for negative film scanning. Negative film and editing are very new to me. My late father had a lot of negative films from the 1970s up to 2005. Do you use only Photoshop to color them? What is the best Kelvin for the LED backlight? Is the APSC camera enough for scanning? I just realized that the old negatives are mostly in 35mm (sorry, I'm not a pro photographer, only use it for family photos).
Great to see a new video and looks like a great product to convert film to digital. I had investigated previously and found that the affordable solutions were very limited. I can see a JCC Adapter encouraging me to use my old 35mm cameras again as well as digitising old negatives.
Great to see another of your very informative videos. Although most of my photography is digital, I still enjoy film , so this device is of real interest.
Thanks Terry. I have just started using this system thanks to you. So much easier than my old system of putting a camera vertically on a tripod and lighting film strips from underneath. What happened to all your older TH-cam videos? Thanks again.
Dear, Terry. Firstly, congrats on the video. I hope you could give me some advice on troubleshooting some hurdles I have met. Whilst JJC lists only the Canon RF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens (for the mirrorless mount), I risked buying this very same JJC Digitizing Adapter Set for using with my Canon RF 85mm f/2 Macro IS lens. Unfortunately, so far I am struggling to make it work, since it displays "Error 60" continuously. It seems that the set is "jamming" the lens movement (aka Err 60 code). The few times I get rid of this error, I just cannot fix the focus. It's been very disappointing an experience. In the footnote, JJC guarantees that the set would work with other (not listed) lenses, notwithstanding, provided one uses extension tubes. I wonder if you have had any trouble (like mine) when first using the JJC digitizing set. And, naturally, if you could shed some light on my plight. kkkk Thanks and greetings from Rio.
Ariel: I am sorry that your experience has been disappointing and frustrating. I have only used the adapter with the recommended Olympus lens and I have had no problems. I don't have a Canon camera/lens combination to try it out. And even if your setup doesn't works perfectly in automatic focus mode I would have expected manual focus to work. The adapter is a passive device so it is hard to see how it could cause the lens to jam. I will keep looking to see if anyone else haas the same problem. Terry
any hot spots from the LED? what sort of SS and Apperture were you getting; and is the LED able to be adjusted in temperature? Deciding between this and the Valoi Easy 35 - but it is 3D printed and twice the cost.
Zuiko Macro; Aperture Priority f8; ISO 250; Shutter 1/125; tripod mounted; high resolution 10368x6912 image size; no hot spots; no light colour variation - white balance adjusted in Photoshop when necessary. Exposure comp is generally done in camera when necessary. Construction quality good - adapter rings and tube sections nice metal with precise threads. My one small complaint - I wish that the slide holder would take more than 2.
Just bought one...saved about $250 not buying the fancyValoi one, which is essentially the same. Now to start developing film at home as well - maybe 😊
Thanks for the video. I have bought one JJC led light set. My negatives turn out very blue and green. Have you also this experience. It´s hard to find turn the color in lightroom. Have you had this experience?
Ola: Colourr negative film has an orange cast that has to be dealt with in the conversion to positive. I worked out a way to do it but it is hard to explain in words - I might make a video. If you can find a pure black or white in the photo you can do the correction and set it in a PS Action for easy replication. Here's the thing - the line between adjacent frames in the neg strip is pure black. Put the Levels Black Eyedropper in the black divider and the orange cast will be removed. I will try to find time today to make a video. My way might not be the best or most elegant but it works for me. If I get the video made I will let you know here. Terry
@@terryandvalda Yes please do a video. I use lightroom. but I have Photoshop too. In lightroom I do a correction but it turns out to be full to the left on the marker for blue color. Because the colors are negative blue takes a way blue. It is bluegreenish. I read on the JJC ledlight yesterday it was kelvin 6500. That would be a little blue and green to, so I thought it was the light that made the problem. But I guess your answer is more correct. I don't know if kelvin 6500 makes the problem better or worse. I have to experiment more. But yesterday I thought maybe it works with BW. And it did. Strange thing is when setting a white balance in BW the marker turns towards yellow. Removing colors totally also helped. So this led light was easier in BW. I try to compete with the shop who develops my film. They make very good digital copies but I would like to control the prossess myself. I think I can compete in BW but in colour I have not find out yet. I thought I had to buy a new light, but it works in BW. But I have only tried for a week.. There are led lamps with possibillity to change colour. But not to this nice price. Thanks for answer. Yours Ola.
Sir, being of a similar age as yourself, I have seen a number of videos in my time. I would characterise your as 'pre-eminent', not only in terms of content but, in terms of production values, in its style and structure. I may comment in detail on this in another 'rant'. For now, I really need to comment (a euphemism for asking a lot of questions') on the scanning equipment you use: I have purchased exactly the same JJC kit as you use, but I have yet to purchase a macro/micro lens. When I calculate if it possible to position the objective at the lens manufacturer's minimum focus distance to achieve a 1:1 reproduction ratio on a number of the lenses which JJC quote as being 'compatible' with their kit, and which I could attach to my Fuji X-T30 (via an a adapter), I find the answer is 'no' - the minimum focus distance cannot be achieved at 1:1. It might be out by only a few mm (e.g for the 40mm Nikkor) but it is out - you just cannot push accessory #1 far enough into the bell housing. This situation has been reported in other YT videos and in the DPReview forums. This condition applies to your Olympus configuration too (assuming my calculations, based on manufacturer's data and my measurements of the kit's accessories are correct + or 1 mm), so I assume you are photographing your slides at less than 1:1 (aside from consideration of the fact that micro4/3 is obviously smaller than FF) and indeed your video shows accessory #1 pushed into the bell housing as far as it will go. What has been your experience? Are you able to achieve 1:1 (in theory)? What reproduction ratio do you use, in practice, to ensure the frame is full on your camera's sensor? I would ap[appreciate your advice.
I have had no problems with the Olympus OMD-EM1.2/60mm mZuiko Macro lens. Mind you I haven't thought about it as you have - I just assembled the scanner according to JJC instructions and was satisfied with the instant sharp focus. The focus is good enough to be able to see the grain in the B&W negatives. I could be missing something but I am satisfied with the results.
Dear Terry, I have been missing your fantastic YT videos. Thank you for this nice video, as I also have an archive of thousands of photos from 1976 -2005. Thank you!
I’m so happy to see that you are still with us.
I have a very similar set up,except without the light, I have one from a different digitising set up. I also use the 30 mm macro instead of the 60mm. The main thing I have found using the high res mode on HP5 that’s been pushed two stops is it tends to smooth out the grain. So I use my old Canon full-frame for that as it retains the grain. But high res with my old Kodachrome slides is fantastic. One of my earliest attempts, years ago, at digitising slides was with an old slide duplicator I found on eBay for a couple of quid, but this JJC devise is much better and more versatile. And a fraction of the cost of Nikon’s version, and a whole lot quicker and better than my old Nikon Coolscan 4000.
Thank you very much Terry. This is the exact device and tutorial I've been looking for. I've recently got back into 35mm film and wanted a cost effective way to scan the negatives. I also have the very same Olympus OM-D EM1 Mark II and various adapted 1:1 macro lenses ( 55mm Sigma, 60mm Yongnuo and 90mm Tamron ). Your results are amazing and I'm convinced I now don't need to spends hundreds of pounds on a scanner. Thanks for the inspiration.
Terry! I'm so glad you've posted another video. It's been far too long, we've missed you. Thank you so much!
Terry please bring back your EM1 uploads
glad to have you back!
Dear Mr Lane, great to see that you are still making these wonderful videos !
Hi Terry, I am a similar age bracket to you and my first 35 mm camera was a Kodak Retina (forgotten the actual model, it was German made with Schneider 50m f3.5). I took it to New Zealand in 1966 for a working holiday and it produced terrific images with Kodachrome 25 asa. most of my images after that were positives right up till I swapped to digital in 2006 . My first camera was a Box Brownie 620 for my 6th birthday so I too have lots of unsorted film. I also use the JJC digitising adapter and find it very convenient and as you mentioned the image quality is far superior to other forms of digitising. I have MFT lumix G9 20mp and also have EOS R 30mp though the G9 at 80mp hi res gives better results. I have also owned several medium format film cameras, so I use a 120 film mask in much the same fashion though I use my smart phone with mask elevated about 10ml to provide a bright lightsource. Although I have several thousand images of my own I have also inherited about 10 thousand images from my late father's collection which will keep me busy for a while. My father was a professional photographer with his own studio in Sydney, he was also the Ilford Film NSW State rep and his first 35mm camera was the Oska Barnak Leica ( I have a 111f Leica in my collection). I have seen a few of your videos and am delighted to see this video and your beautilul digitized results, thank you and keep up the good work
A pleasure to see a new video on this channel! Coincidentally I bought the JCC one that goes without the adaptor for macro lenses. It works good enough for me for 30€, I don't have old negatives and I’ve been experimenting with film lately.
Hi Sir, thanks for recommending JJC FDA for negative film scanning. Negative film and editing are very new to me. My late father had a lot of negative films from the 1970s up to 2005. Do you use only Photoshop to color them? What is the best Kelvin for the LED backlight? Is the APSC camera enough for scanning? I just realized that the old negatives are mostly in 35mm (sorry, I'm not a pro photographer, only use it for family photos).
Great to see a new video and looks like a great product to convert film to digital. I had investigated previously and found that the affordable solutions were very limited. I can see a JCC Adapter encouraging me to use my old 35mm cameras again as well as digitising old negatives.
Great to see another of your very informative videos. Although most of my photography is digital, I still enjoy film , so this device is of real interest.
Good to see you back, Terry!
Welcome back -- I've been meaning to look into this; thanks!
Very nice pictures. The Comet Picture is great.
Thanks Terry. I have just started using this system thanks to you. So much easier than my old system of putting a camera vertically on a tripod and lighting film strips from underneath.
What happened to all your older TH-cam videos?
Thanks again.
Dear, Terry. Firstly, congrats on the video. I hope you could give me some advice on troubleshooting some hurdles I have met.
Whilst JJC lists only the Canon RF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens (for the mirrorless mount), I risked buying this very same JJC Digitizing Adapter Set for using with my Canon RF 85mm f/2 Macro IS lens. Unfortunately, so far I am struggling to make it work, since it displays "Error 60" continuously. It seems that the set is "jamming" the lens movement (aka Err 60 code). The few times I get rid of this error, I just cannot fix the focus. It's been very disappointing an experience. In the footnote, JJC guarantees that the set would work with other (not listed) lenses, notwithstanding, provided one uses extension tubes. I wonder if you have had any trouble (like mine) when first using the JJC digitizing set. And, naturally, if you could shed some light on my plight. kkkk Thanks and greetings from Rio.
Ariel: I am sorry that your experience has been disappointing and frustrating. I have only used the adapter with the recommended Olympus lens and I have had no problems. I don't have a Canon camera/lens combination to try it out. And even if your setup doesn't works perfectly in automatic focus mode I would have expected manual focus to work. The adapter is a passive device so it is hard to see how it could cause the lens to jam. I will keep looking to see if anyone else haas the same problem. Terry
any hot spots from the LED? what sort of SS and Apperture were you getting; and is the LED able to be adjusted in temperature? Deciding between this and the Valoi Easy 35 - but it is 3D printed and twice the cost.
Zuiko Macro; Aperture Priority f8; ISO 250; Shutter 1/125; tripod mounted; high resolution 10368x6912 image size; no hot spots; no light colour variation - white balance adjusted in Photoshop when necessary. Exposure comp is generally done in camera when necessary. Construction quality good - adapter rings and tube sections nice metal with precise threads. My one small complaint - I wish that the slide holder would take more than 2.
Thanks Terry!
Just bought one...saved about $250 not buying the fancyValoi one, which is essentially the same. Now to start developing film at home as well - maybe 😊
Is there anywhere to watch your previous uploads, they've been removed from your channel, sadly.
Same here, I would love to see them again although I watched each more than 10 times ❤.
Nice to here you again Terry
I own a Fujifilm XH2 -- can I use this camera with the JJC Digitisling adapter.
the JJC adapter will work will any digital camera
Thanks for the video. I have bought one JJC led light set. My negatives turn out very blue and green. Have you also this experience. It´s hard to find turn the color in lightroom.
Have you had this experience?
Ola: Colourr negative film has an orange cast that has to be dealt with in the conversion to positive. I worked out a way to do it but it is hard to explain in words - I might make a video. If you can find a pure black or white in the photo you can do the correction and set it in a PS Action for easy replication. Here's the thing - the line between adjacent frames in the neg strip is pure black. Put the Levels Black Eyedropper in the black divider and the orange cast will be removed. I will try to find time today to make a video. My way might not be the best or most elegant but it works for me. If I get the video made I will let you know here. Terry
@@terryandvalda Yes please do a video. I use lightroom. but I have Photoshop too. In lightroom I do a correction but it turns out to be full to the left on the marker for blue color. Because the colors are negative blue takes a way blue. It is bluegreenish. I read on the JJC ledlight yesterday it was kelvin 6500. That would be a little blue and green to, so I thought it was the light that made the problem. But I guess your answer is more correct. I don't know if kelvin 6500 makes the problem better or worse. I have to experiment more.
But yesterday I thought maybe it works with BW. And it did. Strange thing is when setting a white balance in BW the marker turns towards yellow. Removing colors totally also helped. So this led light was easier in BW.
I try to compete with the shop who develops my film. They make very good digital copies but I would like to control the prossess myself. I think I can compete in BW but in colour I have not find out yet. I thought I had to buy a new light, but it works in BW. But I have only tried for a week.. There are led lamps with possibillity to change colour. But not to this nice price. Thanks for answer. Yours Ola.
@@olaandersson3599 Ola: The promised video is here. th-cam.com/video/nTMAt-rhwLY/w-d-xo.html I hope it helps. Terry
Is a certain lens needed to use this system, Terry? I don't own a macro lens.
Edit: never mind, I checked your link.
Sir, being of a similar age as yourself, I have seen a number of videos in my time. I would characterise your as 'pre-eminent', not only in terms of content but, in terms of production values, in its style and structure. I may comment in detail on this in another 'rant'. For now, I really need to comment (a euphemism for asking a lot of questions') on the scanning equipment you use: I have purchased exactly the same JJC kit as you use, but I have yet to purchase a macro/micro lens. When I calculate if it possible to position the objective at the lens manufacturer's minimum focus distance to achieve a 1:1 reproduction ratio on a number of the lenses which JJC quote as being 'compatible' with their kit, and which I could attach to my Fuji X-T30 (via an a adapter), I find the answer is 'no' - the minimum focus distance cannot be achieved at 1:1. It might be out by only a few mm (e.g for the 40mm Nikkor) but it is out - you just cannot push accessory #1 far enough into the bell housing. This situation has been reported in other YT videos and in the DPReview forums. This condition applies to your Olympus configuration too (assuming my calculations, based on manufacturer's data and my measurements of the kit's accessories are correct + or 1 mm), so I assume you are photographing your slides at less than 1:1 (aside from consideration of the fact that micro4/3 is obviously smaller than FF) and indeed your video shows accessory #1 pushed into the bell housing as far as it will go. What has been your experience? Are you able to achieve 1:1 (in theory)? What reproduction ratio do you use, in practice, to ensure the frame is full on your camera's sensor? I would ap[appreciate your advice.
I have had no problems with the Olympus OMD-EM1.2/60mm mZuiko Macro lens. Mind you I haven't thought about it as you have - I just assembled the scanner according to JJC instructions and was satisfied with the instant sharp focus. The focus is good enough to be able to see the grain in the B&W negatives. I could be missing something but I am satisfied with the results.
Great video. Thank you
I hope it works with my 80mm Fuji macro😂
Nice one 👍