I don't think a SINGLE tiny whoop pilot knows you can change the low voltage warning value because every video I see goes like this: take off fly for 3 seconds and then LOW BATTERY LOW BATTERY LAND NOW LAND NOW for the entire flight. Who wants to fly with that flashing on their screen the whole time?? Apparently I'm the only one who cares 😂Really enjoying this series Joshua, I appreciate all of the time you put into these videos!
I know you get a ton of comments but I'm really in need of some help. My betaflight is showing a battery connected 24/7 whether there actually is one connected or not, and not only that but the voltage is incorrect. Is my FC cooked?
@@baaao then do not set it and rely on the ... mostly right... but possible inaccurate readings but if u mean "I only fly 4S" then "force_battery_cell_count = 4" .... 2 s then only set =2.... ...1s ... =1 ... clear?
@@Ryet9 hey, i have 2 types of batteries 6s li ion and 6s lihv.. im having problem getting inaccurate osd displays because my lihv max cell is 4.35 and t he li ion has only 4.20 is there anyway to correct this? or do i need to change betaflight settings everytime i change batteries?
@@baaaotry setting Maximum Cell Voltage in the PWR & Battery tab to 4.38? ... but keep the warning levels set to ..whatever u current settings are.. say 3.3X volts... so u still get warnings when on the HV... and ur just going to have to deal with battery low warnings when using the lions 🐯 constantly popping up.. or.. ya change it every damn time.. no way to detect if it's lion or lipo, sorry ...welp .. edit.. if u really got creative.. im sure there is a way opentx/edge tx could deal with.. if battery starts at XYZ... then give audiable warning when it gets to .. blahh, warn me... and disable OSD battery low warnings... but thats a bit byond the scope of a youtube comment
What about the capacity option in BF? Should I input there the battery capacity of the current battery that I'm using? What if I use a 1550mah battery and then use a 1100mah one? Do I have to switch that value in BF before flying?
Sir I need help. Lol no really I started your TH-cam series on betsflite 4.3 Well I got thru 1 vid setup, 2nd video ports I think so, 3rd receiver I crashed no movement of sticks. My arm flag is rx fail safe and can't fig what's going on.
New guy here. Thank you for what you do Mr Bardwell. I'm halfway through this video and I'm thinking that DJI fpv drone is looking really good right about now. I don't have the time to take a college course to learn all this stuff. Really a bummer too because I know the flight characteristics of these "real" fpv drones is the way. Not a rocket scientist
Well keep in mind he is doing a break down for those who are interested in knowing what this all means and how to work it.. but alot of betaflight 4.3 is set for you by default..and you can buy bind and fly pre-built kwads...I would recommend a bind and fly if your new cause the dji fpv is very expensive and it's made of plastic if you crash in anyway its toast. As opposed to a bind n fly freestyle made of carbon fiber wich is incredibly durable and better in everyway.
I'm not getting voltage on a radix v1 board. Can I solder the "volt" pad on the radix directly to the red battery + pad? I have a hobbywing 60amp 4in1. Then would I use the onboard ADC setting or from the esc sensor? thanks
So, what does the mAh offset do? You didn't explain how to make it work or how to make adjustments with it. Also, from my experience with the current scale that the manufacturer provides is always wrong. It's never correct. Best way to get it close is to just fly the quad and record how many mAh you used up, charge it back up to find out how many mAh went back in. Or if you have a bench top power supply to calibrate it. Since the mAh offset wasn't explained, I'll explain it. It's usually always a negative number you input for the offset to correct for the amount of current you are actually pulling. You can put the correct scale in after you do your initial test, but it will still pull say 3 amps for instance when disarmed and your mAh counter will start climbing up when that isn't correct. The accurate way would be to use a clamp meter to see how much current you are pulling when disarmed since the quad will always be pulling a small amount of current due to the FC, camera, VTX, LEDs etc. Fun fact, if you put too negative of a value in for the mAh offset it either takes forever for the mAh counter to count +1mAh or the mAh counter will start counting backwards 🤣
i actually dont know what to search for the current/scale of cinelog35 6s, so in the amperage meter section, min i just 100 mVA and 0 offset mA. so im not sure if that works
Very helpful, thank you so much! I do have a question. When I'm flying, I'm getting a voltage reading that tells me time to come home (let's say 21V for a 6S so 3.5V/cell). When I get home and put the battery on the charger, I'm reading something like 22.8V (3.8V/cell). I'm fairly confident that my battery checker is correct, so I go and plug in my battery and my drone to BetaFlight, but it now says the same as the battery checker (22.8V or 3.8V/cell). Then I connect my headset to the drone and look at the voltage on the OSD, it ALSO now says 22.8V (instead of the previous 21V). Any idea why this would this have a mis-reading in the field, and be correct when I get home? I have the same result if I display the total voltage or the voltage/cell on my OSD. Any thoughts would be helpful, it's maddening..
Man, this video was awesome, i have all manuals of the FC the ESCs, I always use same batteries, but i cannot set the amperage meter (scale, offset). So i decided to leave them as you 400 and 0.
I having a issue with the battery voltage. When i fly my tinywhoop, for some reason, the battery voltage is showing me 0.00V and the “low battery” warning, even not showing also. I check in betaflight, I reebot once but nothing change. Do i need to calibrate or something?
Thx for this valuable content! Just a remark to the current sensing example with the F55A Pro II ESC, which I own: the manufacturer's value of 15.2 mV/A seems to give me totally wrong readings of 10 A current draw during idle condition. It appears the manufacture gives this exact value for all of the F series EFCs. I have put in 300 mV/A, which also seems too high. 5A current draw seems odd.
Thanks a lot for your great video jashua , I have searched a lot to find the “tmotor v50a 6s 4in1 “ esc current scale but unfortunately I haven’t found that . Would you please help me?
josh, are you a memory trap!!!!??? haha, I heard you did not script your videos... Is that true? These videos are awesome dude, thank you! I'll drop a buck in the cup at patreon for these!
One thing to note is if you accidentally flash the wrong firmware for your board, it *can* bork out your voltage readings. For the longest time I couldn't understand why when plugged into USB only it was registering a ridiculously high voltage reading - even worse when I plugged in a battery. Incorrect FW will wreak havoc on your life. Attention to detail is key.
Capacity in mAh is always 1 cell. Because the cells are in series. Therefore the voltage increases as the cell count goes up but the mAh stays the same.
so if i want to run a mix of regular lipos and hv just bump the value up to 4.4v max...is there anything data wise I might be missing in the OSD when i fly non-hv packs? or everything works fine like "business as usual"? thanks!
Nice quick breakdown of a lot of the gotchas in dealing with power-related settings. I remember pulling my hair out trying to figure out why my individual ESCs didn't have telemetry when I got my first 4-in-1, but as you explained it's not very common.
I’m running a Beast F7 55A v2 and I have everything connected. I always run a smoke stopper. When I went to test the motors they all worked collectively if I raised the motors individually. But when I used to the master scale the smoke stopper turns red and shuts the drone off. Any idea what’s causing this problem?
Hi. Fist and foremost, thank you. I have learn a lot from watching you videos. As for the new version of Betaflight, I could not find the “tab” that let me reduce the power to the motors if, for exemple, using a 6s battery on a 4s drone. Before we could reduce the power to 67% when using a 6s battery on a 4s drone, now I cannot find this option. Do you know of this option is no longer available? Thanks
That's up to you. If you set it at 1500, you're going to kill your battery (assuming the current sensor is accurately calibrated, which it often is not).
RC6 just released. If there are no bugs in it, then it will become the final release. If bugs are found, then there will be more RC. There was a time when we were pretty sure RC4 was going to be final, until a serious bug was found. We can't know whether that will happen with RC6 or not.
@@morgalion sorry i meant to leave the lipos when i am racing at 3.7/3.8v when the voltage has increased. If you are racing the voltage sag is much bigger so i usually land looking at the mAh draw.
The problem with running down to 3.2 is that we have such spiky load that if you're at 3.2 while cruising, you'll go below 3.0 when you touch the throttle.
I don't think a SINGLE tiny whoop pilot knows you can change the low voltage warning value because every video I see goes like this: take off fly for 3 seconds and then LOW BATTERY LOW BATTERY LAND NOW LAND NOW for the entire flight. Who wants to fly with that flashing on their screen the whole time?? Apparently I'm the only one who cares 😂Really enjoying this series Joshua, I appreciate all of the time you put into these videos!
This playlist is going to help SO many new pilots, thanks!
aaaaaaand i am back to drone flying after 5 years.hi again joshua, missed you!
You didn't talk about the capacity Tab
I know you get a ton of comments but I'm really in need of some help. My betaflight is showing a battery connected 24/7 whether there actually is one connected or not, and not only that but the voltage is incorrect. Is my FC cooked?
If you only fly one type of battery (all same cell count) I strongly suggest setting "force_battery_cell_count"
E.g.
set force_battery_cell_count = 6
That's a good one. Perfect for 1s hv.
how about different types of batteries?
@@baaao then do not set it and rely on the ... mostly right... but possible inaccurate readings
but if u mean "I only fly 4S" then "force_battery_cell_count = 4" .... 2 s then only set =2.... ...1s ... =1 ... clear?
@@Ryet9 hey, i have 2 types of batteries 6s li ion and 6s lihv.. im having problem getting inaccurate osd displays because my lihv max cell is 4.35 and t he li ion has only 4.20 is there anyway to correct this? or do i need to change betaflight settings everytime i change batteries?
@@baaaotry setting Maximum Cell Voltage in the PWR & Battery tab to 4.38?
... but keep the warning levels set to ..whatever u current settings are.. say 3.3X volts... so u still get warnings when on the HV... and ur just going to have to deal with battery low warnings when using the lions 🐯 constantly popping up.. or.. ya change it every damn time.. no way to detect if it's lion or lipo, sorry ...welp
.. edit.. if u really got creative.. im sure there is a way opentx/edge tx could deal with.. if battery starts at XYZ... then give audiable warning when it gets to .. blahh, warn me... and disable OSD battery low warnings... but thats a bit byond the scope of a youtube comment
My Quad , The mAh Used it seems not correct. just connected the battery and mAh used show 300mAh and keep go up (osd) . how to fix this"?
What about the capacity option in BF? Should I input there the battery capacity of the current battery that I'm using? What if I use a 1550mah battery and then use a 1100mah one? Do I have to switch that value in BF before flying?
Sir I need help. Lol no really I started your TH-cam series on betsflite 4.3
Well I got thru 1 vid setup, 2nd video ports I think so, 3rd receiver I crashed no movement of sticks. My arm flag is rx fail safe and can't fig what's going on.
In my power and battery it keeps showing 3s and 10.4 even though my lipo is a 4s and full, no matter what I do I can't change it, any ideas?
And for li-ion 6s? set it for 4.25v-2.5v?
Yep that sounds right. Warning at 3.0 critical at like 2.7.
New guy here. Thank you for what you do Mr Bardwell. I'm halfway through this video and I'm thinking that DJI fpv drone is looking really good right about now. I don't have the time to take a college course to learn all this stuff. Really a bummer too because I know the flight characteristics of these "real" fpv drones is the way. Not a rocket scientist
Well keep in mind he is doing a break down for those who are interested in knowing what this all means and how to work it.. but alot of betaflight 4.3 is set for you by default..and you can buy bind and fly pre-built kwads...I would recommend a bind and fly if your new cause the dji fpv is very expensive and it's made of plastic if you crash in anyway its toast. As opposed to a bind n fly freestyle made of carbon fiber wich is incredibly durable and better in everyway.
New guy here analog
Great info Joshua. This is very helpful. You rock brother 👊🏻
That's awesome info right here -- thanks for making this !!
Bardwell my teacher on my FPV post doc degree .
I'm not getting voltage on a radix v1 board. Can I solder the "volt" pad on the radix directly to the red battery + pad? I have a hobbywing 60amp 4in1. Then would I use the onboard ADC setting or from the esc sensor? thanks
Thank you! I used to know just enough in this tab to get by now I feel like I understand it and I’m excited to finally get this part right!
Thanks!
So, what does the mAh offset do? You didn't explain how to make it work or how to make adjustments with it.
Also, from my experience with the current scale that the manufacturer provides is always wrong. It's never correct. Best way to get it close is to just fly the quad and record how many mAh you used up, charge it back up to find out how many mAh went back in. Or if you have a bench top power supply to calibrate it.
Since the mAh offset wasn't explained, I'll explain it. It's usually always a negative number you input for the offset to correct for the amount of current you are actually pulling. You can put the correct scale in after you do your initial test, but it will still pull say 3 amps for instance when disarmed and your mAh counter will start climbing up when that isn't correct. The accurate way would be to use a clamp meter to see how much current you are pulling when disarmed since the quad will always be pulling a small amount of current due to the FC, camera, VTX, LEDs etc.
Fun fact, if you put too negative of a value in for the mAh offset it either takes forever for the mAh counter to count +1mAh or the mAh counter will start counting backwards 🤣
i actually dont know what to search for the current/scale of cinelog35 6s, so in the amperage meter section, min i just 100 mVA and 0 offset mA. so im not sure if that works
Why they just don't let you select how many S battery you have which would resolve all wrong guesses from Betaflight...
You can do that in the CLI.
I guess some selection box with Auto and 1S, 2S, 3S, 4S, 5S, etc. selection would be much easier than changing it in the CLI...@@JoshuaBardwell
Very helpful, thank you so much! I do have a question. When I'm flying, I'm getting a voltage reading that tells me time to come home (let's say 21V for a 6S so 3.5V/cell). When I get home and put the battery on the charger, I'm reading something like 22.8V (3.8V/cell). I'm fairly confident that my battery checker is correct, so I go and plug in my battery and my drone to BetaFlight, but it now says the same as the battery checker (22.8V or 3.8V/cell). Then I connect my headset to the drone and look at the voltage on the OSD, it ALSO now says 22.8V (instead of the previous 21V). Any idea why this would this have a mis-reading in the field, and be correct when I get home? I have the same result if I display the total voltage or the voltage/cell on my OSD. Any thoughts would be helpful, it's maddening..
Duuuuude what?!?! At 20:10 when he read "warning" that could EXACTLY be a voice in a flightsimulator like from microsoft XD
Man, this video was awesome, i have all manuals of the FC the ESCs, I always use same batteries, but i cannot set the amperage meter (scale, offset). So i decided to leave them as you 400 and 0.
I having a issue with the battery voltage. When i fly my tinywhoop, for some reason, the battery voltage is showing me 0.00V and the “low battery” warning, even not showing also. I check in betaflight, I reebot once but nothing change. Do i need to calibrate or something?
Any idea why a 300mah 1S would work but a 380mah 1S cuts out when I punch the throttle? Mobula 6, manual says 5A continuous current, peak 6A. TIA
Thx for this valuable content! Just a remark to the current sensing example with the F55A Pro II ESC, which I own: the manufacturer's value of 15.2 mV/A seems to give me totally wrong readings of 10 A current draw during idle condition. It appears the manufacture gives this exact value for all of the F series EFCs. I have put in 300 mV/A, which also seems too high. 5A current draw seems odd.
Thanks a lot for your great video jashua , I have searched a lot to find the “tmotor v50a 6s 4in1 “ esc current scale but unfortunately I haven’t found that . Would you please help me?
josh, are you a memory trap!!!!??? haha, I heard you did not script your videos... Is that true? These videos are awesome dude, thank you! I'll drop a buck in the cup at patreon for these!
One thing to note is if you accidentally flash the wrong firmware for your board, it *can* bork out your voltage readings.
For the longest time I couldn't understand why when plugged into USB only it was registering a ridiculously high voltage reading - even worse when I plugged in a battery.
Incorrect FW will wreak havoc on your life.
Attention to detail is key.
You mentioned lipo battery, but what happens if you are using Lithium-Ion batteries on your build?
Is there way to run a 4s and 6s on the same quad without getting a "low battery warning" while using a 4s?
Thanks master JB, this is the knowledge I was looking for….
Does anyone know what the amperage and voltage meter for the mobula7 1s elrs is?
I'm confused between "scale" and "1/10th mV/A".
"Capacity" should be specified in one cell or total?
Capacity in mAh is always 1 cell. Because the cells are in series. Therefore the voltage increases as the cell count goes up but the mAh stays the same.
but what is it needed for? because the alarms are set in the OSD tab, correct?
You da best, Bardwell! Now I can actually use this tab 😆
so if i want to run a mix of regular lipos and hv just bump the value up to 4.4v max...is there anything data wise I might be missing in the OSD when i fly non-hv packs? or everything works fine like "business as usual"? thanks!
I can't think of anything that would be missing.
Nice quick breakdown of a lot of the gotchas in dealing with power-related settings. I remember pulling my hair out trying to figure out why my individual ESCs didn't have telemetry when I got my first 4-in-1, but as you explained it's not very common.
I’m running a Beast F7 55A v2 and I have everything connected. I always run a smoke stopper. When I went to test the motors they all worked collectively if I raised the motors individually. But when I used to the master scale the smoke stopper turns red and shuts the drone off. Any idea what’s causing this problem?
th-cam.com/video/0CQA5dPMYJQ/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=JoshuaBardwell
Thank you Joshua!🙏💪
Is there a way to use this on a Bwine f7 drone?
Hi. Fist and foremost, thank you. I have learn a lot from watching you videos. As for the new version of Betaflight, I could not find the “tab” that let me reduce the power to the motors if, for exemple, using a 6s battery on a 4s drone. Before we could reduce the power to 67% when using a 6s battery on a 4s drone, now I cannot find this option. Do you know of this option is no longer available? Thanks
It's in the PID tuning tab, the motor output limit option.
Great video.Thx Joshua.
Finally , been waiting for this.
THUMBS UP
awesome thank you
Many thanks!👍
Thank you!
So... What value goes into the "Capacity (mAh)" field and what does the setting do?
That is the max mAh after which an alarm will appear in the OSD.
@@JoshuaBardwell If you were using a 1500 mAh battery, would you set this to 1350?
That's up to you. If you set it at 1500, you're going to kill your battery (assuming the current sensor is accurately calibrated, which it often is not).
Great vid
when is 4.3 coming ? not RC
RC6 just released. If there are no bugs in it, then it will become the final release. If bugs are found, then there will be more RC. There was a time when we were pretty sure RC4 was going to be final, until a serious bug was found. We can't know whether that will happen with RC6 or not.
@@JoshuaBardwell thanks Joshua for the reply when it drops ill be watching all the 4.3 tutorials you made thanks again
3.5v turn around? I usually land at 3.7v- 3.8v so I don’t damage the lipos.
Yes but 3.5v is under load (during flight) ;) when you land, the voltage increases up to approximately 3.65/3.7v
Landing at 3.5v under load won't hurt anything. They'll rebound to 3.7 or so after they rest.
@@morgalion sorry i meant to leave the lipos when i am racing at 3.7/3.8v when the voltage has increased. If you are racing the voltage sag is much bigger so i usually land looking at the mAh draw.
The problem with running down to 3.2 is that we have such spiky load that if you're at 3.2 while cruising, you'll go below 3.0 when you touch the throttle.