I recently researched this. I just spent a few hours researching and compiling a list of the correct fluids to use for all the major fluids: oil, coolant, transmission, and differential. My intention is not to stir the hornets nest... I know fluid especially oil choices can be very personal, I just wanted to share what I found and hopefully it will help someone else. I'm very particular about using the exact correct fluids and quality parts. This is for an '84 280E automatic so if you have a diesel or manual obviously those will be different. ENGINE OIL: Motul Classic Eighties 10W40 (semi-synthetic with ZDDP additive. Most oils with ZDDP are conventional, whereas most synthetics don't have enough ZDDP. This oil is ideal for engines like the M110 that need valve adjustments) TRANSMISSION: Febi 08971 ATF (meets Mercedes-Benz factory specification, ideal for older vacuum controlled transmissions like the 722.) Elring 1232700098 transmission filter kit DIFFERENTIAL: Liqui Moly 20010 85W-90 GL-5 (everything from Liqui Moly is high quality. Most gear oil these days is 75W-90, which is the wrong weight. 85W-90 is the correct factory spec.) COOLANT: Valvoline Zerex G48 -or- Rowe Q6880187 (correct blue color low-silicate/no phosphate coolant that is safe for mixed aluminum and iron engines) AIR FILTER: Mann (these are one of few filters still made in Germany for Mercedes, as far as I know.
Hi Pierre, you provide great advice and information on your channel, which I watch avidly. I have a young timer S211 E63 AMG which I intend to keep and not sell. Hence I have learned so much from your extensive classics experience. I wanted to suggest you do a video on Fuses and Relays, as my car is 18 years old and I feel that I should replace all the fuses and relays as a precaution. Particularly relays as they work all the time and the repeated load/unload switching at this age may present future problems. Looking forward to your take and experience on this topic , through a video as a suggestion, because I am sure I am not the only young timer owner subscribed to your great channel. I drive my car regularly for pleasure and touring holidays . Many thanks for reading this and look forward to your future videos. Kind Regards Simeon in Uk
There should be some clarity on power steering pumps. Surely power steering fluid is better than ATF now. I serviced mine a few years back with a new Mann filter and MB power steering fluid.
@@solsol1624 yep, Mercedessource sells the febi fluid as an upgrade and I used it. It was one of the first jobs I did two years ago and I'm wondering if it's rated for the w126 ps box.
I have a 1990 w124 300TE with 150,000 miles and am adding 2% 2 cycle oil as recommended. Should I be using a fuel injection cleaner in addition to the oil? I am concerned about carbon buildup in the injectors. Thanks!
Pennzoil Synchromesh is made to replace ALL MTFs, inc 10w-30, dexron....etc. It doesn't have the friction modifiers of GL-5 gear oil, which is ideal....like GL-4 MTF...Synchromesh
Could a bad steering damper cause vibration when braking from 85 miles an hour to 75 mph in a W201? Disk pads, tie rod ends, shock absorbers, and lower ball joints all replaced.
I always appreciate your videos. Quick question, do you not advise the use of Febi Bilstien Power Steering fluid? *Confused Here* You stated the "Other Flids" can/will do damge to the seals. Thank You in advance! ☺
not related,but I am trying to decide between a 1990 MB 190 2.6,or a similar era 300e.Which is the better car? Both are very clean,but I am sure will need fluid changes
Have you driven (a nice example of) both? If not, do it. Find the one that pulls at your heart strings more - and go with that. Both are great. Both will need maintenance and upkeep. So go with the one that you enjoy more as you will be more likely to invest the resources into it, thus keeping it in better condition, and subsequently will be a better ownership experience…and isn’t that what it’s all about
@@MIAthe305 .yes,thank you.I had a 72 280se 4.5 once and loved it,wish I had not sold it.There is one around the corner from me,but the owner just lets it rot in the garage,(it hasnt moved since last December),nor will he sell.I have driven a nice 300 e,but curious about the 190e,and may have an opportunity to drive one.They seem quite a bit smaller.Thank you
Greetings Pierre, what's your take on the rumor that's floating on the internet about using ATF for the power steering actually causes or accelerates wear and play on the steering boxes ?
I mean... these boxes are largely still working 40 years on using atf. It was specified by MB for w123 and w126 chassis in their technical service manuals. What would you use instead? He mentioned "standard" PS fluid ruins the MB seals.
Further information on the hydropneumatic rear suspension oil: Do NOT, under ANY circumstances use ATF in this suspension!! It WILL DESTROY the seals in the rams, AND the oil cushion (often wrongly called "accumulators") spheres diaphragms. The fluid used in this suspension is LHM type hydraulic oil. This stuff is water clear. The system holds about 2.5 litrers. If you buy a Mercedes with the SLS type rear suspension, & it has trans fluid in it, FLUSH IT OUT, ASAP!! Talking about manual gearbox oil, I had an old fintail. I asked Mercedes what oil it used. I was told to use engine oil, 20W40 grade. Go ahead & laugh, but that gearbox never gave trouble, & is now in another car.
Water clear? The MB specified stuff I got for a w123 sls is light amber and fairly translucent. Also why aren't those spheres accumulators? Do you mean MB might have a different name? They're just like any other gas bladder accumulator I've ever seen.
@@MBNB85 the spheres do not accumulate anything. They are the part of the system that allows the rams to work like shock absorbers. Accumulators accumulate pressure, like in the CIS type fuel injection system. These accumulators in the fuel system are not nitrogen charged, whereas the spheres in the sls suspension are.
@christophermarshall5765 I think they're accumulators. They're nitrogen gas bladder accumulators like I've used in household water and industrial systems and they accumulate pressure spikes (up or down) caused by bumps or holes and release that pressure back into the system.
@@MBNB85 no, they are not accumulators. They are often incorrectly called that. They do not accumulate anything, like I said before. The actual accumulator is in the older k type jetronic fuel system. It has a large spring behind the diaphragm that stores fuel under pressure. The spheres found in the sls hydraulic suspension are charged with nitrogen gas and they don’t store the hydraulic fluid at all. They give it the cushioning required to allow the rams to move up and down like shock absorbers in a normal car. My W116, & S123 both have this system. When I did the oil and filter change in this system, the LHM fluid I bought from Mercedes is water clear, no colour at all. This stuff cost me $40 a litre. The filter was $30. By the way, I am not one of the fools who calls wheel bolts and nuts that stupid and extremely wrong name lug nuts or lug bolts, because cars do not and never did have these. You want lug nuts? Go look at the big trucks that you stupidly call tractor units, they have wheel lugs and nuts. This should be the end of today’s important lesson on car parts and terminology. Come back at me with any more crap, and I will simply laugh at you. I spent over 40 years of my life in the auto industry working on cars. I stepped up to repairer of last resort, meaning that if the garage could not fix it, the company I worked for was called on to repair it. Most engines, diffs, transmissions and gearboxes were either GM, Ford, or Japanese. On a few occasions, we did European ones. Lesson and rant over.
@christophermarshall5765 Christopher, I'm not trying to upset you or tell you you don't know your business. But you're saying everyone is calling these by the wrong name? I thought an accumulator is meant to maintain pressure in a fluid system via a weight or spring or gas piston or gas bladder? Does it have to store significant amounts of fluid to be an accumulator? Do you think it's weird mercedes calls them accumulators and air cells and hydraulic oil chambers and suspension fluid reservoirs? My box (part 123-320-02-15) is labeled as a federspeicher in German (spring accumulator) or accumulateur in French (accumulator) or acumulador in Spanish (accumulator) just fyi. I think they're accumulators because they accumulate fluid that pushes the rubber diaphragm compressing the gas charged bladder to maintain system pressure like the other three applications for accumulators I've installed for water systems. True, they may not hold much, and they may not hold it for long. The hydraulic fluid MB specifies in their technical literature for an SLS in a US w123 1985 300TD (PN A 000-989-91-03-10) is certainly light amber. Am i using the wrong stuff? What fluid (part number) did you use that is clear?
Pierre is always kept busy, even when shooting a video 😂. Thank you for finding time to do this for us!👍🏻
I recently researched this. I just spent a few hours researching and compiling a list of the correct fluids to use for all the major fluids: oil, coolant, transmission, and differential.
My intention is not to stir the hornets nest... I know fluid especially oil choices can be very personal, I just wanted to share what I found and hopefully it will help someone else. I'm very particular about using the exact correct fluids and quality parts.
This is for an '84 280E automatic so if you have a diesel or manual obviously those will be different.
ENGINE OIL: Motul Classic Eighties 10W40 (semi-synthetic with ZDDP additive. Most oils with ZDDP are conventional, whereas most synthetics don't have enough ZDDP. This oil is ideal for engines like the M110 that need valve adjustments)
TRANSMISSION: Febi 08971 ATF (meets Mercedes-Benz factory specification, ideal for older vacuum controlled transmissions like the 722.)
Elring 1232700098 transmission filter kit
DIFFERENTIAL: Liqui Moly 20010 85W-90 GL-5 (everything from Liqui Moly is high quality. Most gear oil these days is 75W-90, which is the wrong weight. 85W-90 is the correct factory spec.)
COOLANT: Valvoline Zerex G48 -or- Rowe Q6880187 (correct blue color low-silicate/no phosphate coolant that is safe for mixed aluminum and iron engines)
AIR FILTER: Mann (these are one of few filters still made in Germany for Mercedes, as far as I know.
All of these videos are boosting my confidence to one day own one of these machines and joining the club. Your expertise is much appreciated.
Great video as always.
Could you do a similar video about which things to grease, how often and with what type of grease?
Outstanding! Thank you. I'll see you early next year for fluid changes. I appreciate you!
Nice job on explaining all of that.
Thanks!
Thanks very informative as always. Absolutely essential :) Greetings from Hungary
Hi Pierre, you provide great advice and information on your channel, which I watch avidly. I have a young timer S211 E63 AMG which I intend to keep and not sell. Hence I have learned so much from your extensive classics experience. I wanted to suggest you do a video on Fuses and Relays, as my car is 18 years old and I feel that I should replace all the fuses and relays as a precaution. Particularly relays as they work all the time and the repeated load/unload switching at this age may present future problems. Looking forward to your take and experience on this topic , through a video as a suggestion, because I am sure I am not the only young timer owner subscribed to your great channel. I drive my car regularly for pleasure and touring holidays . Many thanks for reading this and look forward to your future videos. Kind Regards Simeon in Uk
There should be some clarity on power steering pumps. Surely power steering fluid is better than ATF now. I serviced mine a few years back with a new Mann filter and MB power steering fluid.
Pierre, good overview! What's your opinion on the febi 08972 power steering fluid for a w123 power steering box?
He said to use atf. That's the only fluid I've not changed so next job, was on fence as to what to use but will go at now!
@@solsol1624 yep, Mercedessource sells the febi fluid as an upgrade and I used it. It was one of the first jobs I did two years ago and I'm wondering if it's rated for the w126 ps box.
@MBNB85 yeah Kent has great stuff but I'm in Ireland so shipping and tax etc would be too much unfortunately for me.
I'm inclined to use it; FCP Euro says is similar to Dexron 2
Newer ATF fluids like Dexron 6 last much longer. I use Maxlife in trans, but regular Dex 6 in PSF.
Great video, just a Clarification, what type of oil to use in the limited slip diff of a 560sl?
Al list of the changes would be really usefull ? Cheers
I have a 1990 w124 300TE with 150,000 miles and am adding 2% 2 cycle oil as recommended. Should I be using a fuel injection cleaner in addition to the oil? I am concerned about carbon buildup in the injectors. Thanks!
What about fuel filters? Especially the diesel filters?
Pennzoil Synchromesh is made to replace ALL MTFs, inc 10w-30, dexron....etc. It doesn't have the friction modifiers of GL-5 gear oil, which is ideal....like GL-4 MTF...Synchromesh
Could a bad steering damper cause vibration when braking from 85 miles an hour to 75 mph in a W201?
Disk pads, tie rod ends, shock absorbers, and lower ball joints all replaced.
You forgot about the oil in the FI pump. I use truck oil.
I always appreciate your videos. Quick question, do you not advise the use of Febi Bilstien Power Steering fluid? *Confused Here* You stated the "Other Flids" can/will do damge to the seals. Thank You in advance! ☺
I think he means actual PS fluid will ruin seals, whereas ATF won't...that's opposite what Mercedessource says though 😁
@@MrRjnr I agree! I am literally going to do a P/S fluid change tomorrw! NOW I am 2nd guessing myself!
not related,but I am trying to decide between a 1990 MB 190 2.6,or a similar era 300e.Which is the better car? Both are very clean,but I am sure will need fluid changes
Have you driven (a nice example of) both?
If not, do it. Find the one that pulls at your heart strings more - and go with that.
Both are great. Both will need maintenance and upkeep. So go with the one that you enjoy more as you will be more likely to invest the resources into it, thus keeping it in better condition, and subsequently will be a better ownership experience…and isn’t that what it’s all about
@@MIAthe305 .yes,thank you.I had a 72 280se 4.5 once and loved it,wish I had not sold it.There is one around the corner from me,but the owner just lets it rot in the garage,(it hasnt moved since last December),nor will he sell.I have driven a nice 300 e,but curious about the 190e,and may have an opportunity to drive one.They seem quite a bit smaller.Thank you
Greetings Pierre, what's your take on the rumor that's floating on the internet about using ATF for the power steering actually causes or accelerates wear and play on the steering boxes ?
I mean... these boxes are largely still working 40 years on using atf. It was specified by MB for w123 and w126 chassis in their technical service manuals. What would you use instead? He mentioned "standard" PS fluid ruins the MB seals.
steering box oil and diesel injection pump oil
MAKE A LIST MAYBR
Further information on the hydropneumatic rear suspension oil: Do NOT, under ANY circumstances use ATF in this suspension!! It WILL DESTROY the seals in the rams, AND the oil cushion (often wrongly called "accumulators") spheres diaphragms. The fluid used in this suspension is LHM type hydraulic oil. This stuff is water clear. The system holds about 2.5 litrers. If you buy a Mercedes with the SLS type rear suspension, & it has trans fluid in it, FLUSH IT OUT, ASAP!! Talking about manual gearbox oil, I had an old fintail. I asked Mercedes what oil it used. I was told to use engine oil, 20W40 grade. Go ahead & laugh, but that gearbox never gave trouble, & is now in another car.
Water clear? The MB specified stuff I got for a w123 sls is light amber and fairly translucent. Also why aren't those spheres accumulators? Do you mean MB might have a different name? They're just like any other gas bladder accumulator I've ever seen.
@@MBNB85 the spheres do not accumulate anything. They are the part of the system that allows the rams to work like shock absorbers. Accumulators accumulate pressure, like in the CIS type fuel injection system. These accumulators in the fuel system are not nitrogen charged, whereas the spheres in the sls suspension are.
@christophermarshall5765 I think they're accumulators. They're nitrogen gas bladder accumulators like I've used in household water and industrial systems and they accumulate pressure spikes (up or down) caused by bumps or holes and release that pressure back into the system.
@@MBNB85 no, they are not accumulators. They are often incorrectly called that. They do not accumulate anything, like I said before. The actual accumulator is in the older k type jetronic fuel system. It has a large spring behind the diaphragm that stores fuel under pressure. The spheres found in the sls hydraulic suspension are charged with nitrogen gas and they don’t store the hydraulic fluid at all. They give it the cushioning required to allow the rams to move up and down like shock absorbers in a normal car. My W116, & S123 both have this system. When I did the oil and filter change in this system, the LHM fluid I bought from Mercedes is water clear, no colour at all. This stuff cost me $40 a litre. The filter was $30. By the way, I am not one of the fools who calls wheel bolts and nuts that stupid and extremely wrong name lug nuts or lug bolts, because cars do not and never did have these. You want lug nuts? Go look at the big trucks that you stupidly call tractor units, they have wheel lugs and nuts. This should be the end of today’s important lesson on car parts and terminology. Come back at me with any more crap, and I will simply laugh at you. I spent over 40 years of my life in the auto industry working on cars. I stepped up to repairer of last resort, meaning that if the garage could not fix it, the company I worked for was called on to repair it. Most engines, diffs, transmissions and gearboxes were either GM, Ford, or Japanese. On a few occasions, we did European ones. Lesson and rant over.
@christophermarshall5765 Christopher, I'm not trying to upset you or tell you you don't know your business. But you're saying everyone is calling these by the wrong name?
I thought an accumulator is meant to maintain pressure in a fluid system via a weight or spring or gas piston or gas bladder? Does it have to store significant amounts of fluid to be an accumulator?
Do you think it's weird mercedes calls them accumulators and air cells and hydraulic oil chambers and suspension fluid reservoirs? My box (part 123-320-02-15) is labeled as a federspeicher in German (spring accumulator) or accumulateur in French (accumulator) or acumulador in Spanish (accumulator) just fyi.
I think they're accumulators because they accumulate fluid that pushes the rubber diaphragm compressing the gas charged bladder to maintain system pressure like the other three applications for accumulators I've installed for water systems. True, they may not hold much, and they may not hold it for long.
The hydraulic fluid MB specifies in their technical literature for an SLS in a US w123 1985 300TD (PN A 000-989-91-03-10) is certainly light amber. Am i using the wrong stuff? What fluid (part number) did you use that is clear?
What about the differential oil ?
5:00 "rear axle oil"
After much research and what was available locally I went with liqui molly gl5 85w 90 on my 123
@@solsol1624 This is the correct fluid. Most available now is 75W-90, which is too thin. Correct is the 85W-90, and Liqui Moly makes a good product.