I owned the sioux it had that industrial diamond to cut the stone at the correct angle. And the hand drill for the seats. All this brings back memories.keep sharing.
Depending on your valve grinder you can bevel the stem using your drill bit sharpening jig used on your bench grinder. Some valve grinding grinders need the stem bevel to be more accurate because the bevel is used to make sure the valve is running true. Check your valve grinder to if has this feature.
@@stevenjordan6389 what type does not matter as long as you use something. I prefer mineral base since I do not use my valve grinder often the fluid will not go rancid and smell.
there is a reason that the cooling fluid can be turned off and yes it should be used MOST of the time..... Some vehicles have sodium filled valve stems to aid in cooling the valve while the engine is running..... refacing sodium filled valves should ALWAYS be done dry as there is a violent explosive risk!
I had a lot of old pipes and rebar to cut up and from what I read th-cam.com/users/postUgkxPDBfLu68o58Aw85O_J-zIFfjJARBhp-3 this would be the tool for the job. Since I had never used one, I watched a couple of youtube videos and I'm so glad I did. Some really good safety tips, which I followed, and this tool did a splendid job. One good thing to know is the weight of the tool puts just about the right amount of pressure on the metal I was cutting, so I didn't have to use a lot of pressure, which is more likely to jam the tool. It made fast work of my job.
Part of resurfacing valves is supposed to be grinding the stem to compensate for resurfacing the face. Last set of big block heads I took to the machine shop for a basic valve job was $80-$100. I don't remember but it was relatively cheap. That was no parts I think, just straight grinding.
Hydraulic tappets and adjustable tappets on the rocker arms will take up that small amount of ground off material from the valve face the removal material at the Collet end of the valve should only be enough to square up the end and take out any wear on the top surface of the valve stem. it should be noted as well that the rocker arms should also be serviced so that they are true and a proper uniform valve stem gap be measured and set! this can also be done on this machine
i regretted so hard , i wanted this black and decker machine when it was being sold on fb marketplace , i just didnt have the funds then now i cant even find one
I am a French living close to Paris. I am curently refurbish an very old resurfacer like yours shown in video. could be Black and Decker or Van Dorn coming from US. As the two electirc motors is power with 110V. I dont have any information about electric motors installed to know what Power supply transformateur 200 V to 110V I need. 300 VA, 500VA or more ? someone can help me to read labels on your resurfacer.Thanks for any help.
The model information is as follows: Size: 5/8" Type NW Wheel Head (grinder) motor: 110v, 4.8A Work Head (chuck) motor: 110v, 1.3A Pump motor: 110v, 0.5A I didn't use the coolant pump in the video, but added the info, in case yours has one.
I used my late uncle's B&D valve refacer on PRE-1974 VALVES, but try it TODAY on modern un-leaded fuel engines and you'll remove the INDUCTION HARDENED surface of the valve and RUIN IT, just like the steatite or carbide valve seats! That's one reason 1950 Ford valves cost $2.38 each and modern valves may cost over $200 EACH!!! You CANNOT grind stainless steel or titanium valve "tulips" either, and you can't use a $49 three-angle flycutter on valve seats either. My Mitimosa 7 angle carbide flycutter for motorcycle valves cost over a Grand! Clover Compound(tm) and a suction cup won't do a thing on MODERN valves and heads but RUIN them!
Nobody has valve jobs done anymore really no need a modern engine with regular oil changes and using synthetic oil has no visible wear after 500k miles .. ZERO wear no need for valve grinding because only people to cheap to change oil would need the service and those are the same people that would never fix anything they would replace the engine / vehicle first. I would love to get one cheap.
HOWdy Yoshi, ... if the VALVES are appropriately ROTATING during operation the TIP of the VALVE should NOT need much "dressing" COOP the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA ...
True. But how do you know if they're rotating before you assemble and run it? I'd hate to go through all that work to find one needs to be done and have to pull it all back apart.
I owned the sioux it had that industrial diamond to cut the stone at the correct angle. And the hand drill for the seats. All this brings back memories.keep sharing.
Depending on your valve grinder you can bevel the stem using your drill bit sharpening jig used on your bench grinder. Some valve grinding grinders need the stem bevel to be more accurate because the bevel is used to make sure the valve is running true. Check your valve grinder to if has this feature.
Thank you. Extremely educational.
Fantastic! Love the channel. So cool that you & Dr. Torque have a long history together. I'm working on my '67 Corvair heads right now.
I always use cutting fluid to prevent any hot spots on the valve face from the grinding wheel. You have the attachment on your grinder too.
I didn't turn on the pump for this demo, so we could more easily see what was going on. Plus, SPARKS!
What kind of cutting fluid to use?
@@stevenjordan6389 what type does not matter as long as you use something. I prefer mineral base since I do not use my valve grinder often the fluid will not go rancid and smell.
The old machine were dry type so you have to slow down and let stem and surface cool
there is a reason that the cooling fluid can be turned off and yes it should be used MOST of the time..... Some vehicles have sodium filled valve stems to aid in cooling the valve while the engine is running..... refacing sodium filled valves should ALWAYS be done dry as there is a violent explosive risk!
Very Nice. I have a machine just like that.
I had a lot of old pipes and rebar to cut up and from what I read th-cam.com/users/postUgkxPDBfLu68o58Aw85O_J-zIFfjJARBhp-3 this would be the tool for the job. Since I had never used one, I watched a couple of youtube videos and I'm so glad I did. Some really good safety tips, which I followed, and this tool did a splendid job. One good thing to know is the weight of the tool puts just about the right amount of pressure on the metal I was cutting, so I didn't have to use a lot of pressure, which is more likely to jam the tool. It made fast work of my job.
I had a B&D grinder but sold it after finding I couldn’t find the rubber belts anywhere.
Could of got a universal leather belt with a fastener that looks a hog ring like on a sewing machine.
goodson?
Just think about all the machines that were in America at one time and nearly every shop had one or two 😊❤
My b/ d machine is all blk
And looks the same
Dad left it to me and all the tools for it
I still use it often
You need to hush and let Dr. Torque explain the process without being interrupted.
Jake gets pretty excited at times. He's the looks, and I'm the brains. We still haven't made lots of money, though... The Pet Shop Boys lied to us!
Part of resurfacing valves is supposed to be grinding the stem to compensate for resurfacing the face. Last set of big block heads I took to the machine shop for a basic valve job was $80-$100. I don't remember but it was relatively cheap. That was no parts I think, just straight grinding.
Hydraulic tappets and adjustable tappets on the rocker arms will take up that small amount of ground off material from the valve face the removal material at the Collet end of the valve should only be enough to square up the end and take out any wear on the top surface of the valve stem. it should be noted as well that the rocker arms should also be serviced so that they are true and a proper uniform valve stem gap be measured and set! this can also be done on this machine
Engines don’t seem to be as hard on valve as they once was , or better material now
But I still use it 😊
I thought you grind them at 44 degrees?
i regretted so hard , i wanted this black and decker machine when it was being sold on fb marketplace , i just didnt have the funds then now i cant even find one
Wonder who sales stones for them
There are places out there that still sell them. Beam Equipment is one. I have tried pasting a link to the correct page, but TH-cam keeps removing it.
goodson, probably
I am a French living close to Paris. I am curently refurbish an very old resurfacer like yours shown in video. could be Black and Decker or Van Dorn coming from US. As the two electirc motors is power with 110V. I dont have any information about electric motors installed to know what Power supply transformateur 200 V to 110V I need. 300 VA, 500VA or more ? someone can help me to read labels on your resurfacer.Thanks for any help.
The model information is as follows:
Size: 5/8"
Type NW
Wheel Head (grinder) motor: 110v, 4.8A
Work Head (chuck) motor: 110v, 1.3A
Pump motor: 110v, 0.5A
I didn't use the coolant pump in the video, but added the info, in case yours has one.
@@damnimcooltom1 Thank you a lot for quick response !
@@adrienmoreau2795 You're welcome. Hopefully it is the information you need.
Valve grinding...hmmmm!😂
I used my late uncle's B&D valve refacer on PRE-1974 VALVES, but try it TODAY on modern un-leaded fuel engines and you'll remove the INDUCTION HARDENED surface of the valve and RUIN IT, just like the steatite or carbide valve seats! That's one reason 1950 Ford valves cost $2.38 each and modern valves may cost over $200 EACH!!! You CANNOT grind stainless steel or titanium valve "tulips" either, and you can't use a $49 three-angle flycutter on valve seats either. My Mitimosa 7 angle carbide flycutter for motorcycle valves cost over a Grand! Clover Compound(tm) and a suction cup won't do a thing on MODERN valves and heads but RUIN them!
YEAH!!
Just lap them to double check seat contact
It's only for Chris.
Nobody has valve jobs done anymore really no need a modern engine with regular oil changes and using synthetic oil has no visible wear after 500k miles .. ZERO wear no need for valve grinding because only people to cheap to change oil would need the service and those are the same people that would never fix anything they would replace the engine / vehicle first. I would love to get one cheap.
HOWdy Yoshi, ...
if the VALVES are appropriately ROTATING during operation
the TIP of the VALVE should NOT need much "dressing"
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
True. But how do you know if they're rotating before you assemble and run it? I'd hate to go through all that work to find one needs to be done and have to pull it all back apart.
Seems the younger generation don’t want to learn how to rework heads or fix anything, dope heads 😢😢😢
Nothing like skipping details while trying to be comedians.
That Doctor Torque guy really cracks me up.