I watched a few of your videos multiple times and they were very easy to follow, and entertaining! I built all new upper kitchen cabinets with shaker style doors and crown moulding at the top. People can't believe I made them. I used Zinsser Bullseye 123 as the primer and Sherwin Williams Emerald semi-gloss urethane with an airless sprayer and a fine finish tip. They came out beautifully. Then I used Watco satin lacquer and brushed it on for inside the case and shelves. Maple veneer edge banding was added to the sides of the shelves. Sanded each coat with 220 grit and they came out great. I didn't want to muck up the sprayer with the lacquer. I have $1,400 into all new uppers using 3/4" maple. Saved so much money and enjoyed doing the work. Thanks for videos!
For the first time since I’ve been doing my own work, I felt like I understood everything you were saying and was picturing it all in my head as I watched ( I’ve never been good at visualizing ). It’s a good feeling when things start to come together. The way you lay out the steps gets through to my brain better than anyone I’ve watched in the past. Thank you.
I priced out 3/4 maple and it was very affordable. This simple, straight forward technique for upper cabinets is easy to follow making it very helpful.
I requested my upper cabinets to be 16" deep when I remodeled my kitchen 4 years ago. So many don't think about the need for deeper uppers to accommodate larger dinner plates or more storage in general. I like that you do 14" deep uppers. Just a small adjustment to depth makes uppers so much more useful.
Hi, watched your channel from the Philippines. Thank you so much on your videos it has inspired us how to make furnitures ourselves. You make it looked so easy and fun to watch. More power on you.
Love 14” uppers! I install mine at 22.5” above counter top and use 2” miter stone edges on my countertops. I also ALWAYS fill the opening on the top of the base cabinets using kregg jig pocket holes so that makes for a solid base to lay stone countertops on. It raises the top measurement on the counter to floor but I have never had any clients complain about the taller measurements for all the new appliances that if you install in manner of older measurements means you have to pull your coffee maker out to flip the lid open to add water as the lid hits the upper in older installs. 😊
of all the videos this was the best!! simple no bs to the point...thank you. Obviously everyone has different ways they would like to do it. But this brings it to the masses.Great vid. 🤓
Just began watching your videos. I enjoyed the presentation along with the explanations of what is being done. The humor adds to the presentation and is appreciated.
I will be replacing the cabinet faces on my mobile home in Texas this year. Your face frame video was a great help. I have watched most all of your cabinet videos and have enjoyed them immensely !!!
So far I’ve seen all your videos about building cabinets. I like your build technique, straightforward and your explanations are easy to reference/follow. Well done. My 1st project was to build shaker cabinet doors. Had to really stay on my contractor table saw so it’s accurate, but other than that it went really good. I’m now ready to paint. I have a Graco 16N659 TrueCoat Plus II Paint Sprayer, with a Graco-TC-Pro-514 tip. Sure hope I don’t screw them up! WOW paint has gone up! I paid 75.00 for a gal. of Sherwin Williams trim and cabinet paint. Sweet Mother Martha!!
I love how intuitive your videos are. You definitely give me the confidence I need to build my own kitchen cabinets. Keep up the great videos. I'm just curious why you put the pocket holes for the face frame inside the cabinet where they can be seen instead of between the cabinets on the outside?
Nice to see that you use glue. I have seen other cabinet builders who don't and I've always wondered why not. The glue is to me, more important that the nails. Thanks again for your videos
What is your preferred method for hanging upper cabinets? Is the glue/brad nail method strong enough for the cabinet floor? How do you make holes in the sides for shelf pins? Enjoyed the video and found it helpful.
Great videos. I am getting ready to build new cabinets for my kitchen and also a few built-ins. Can you share the measurements you used here and what size cabinet that will end up as?
Many woodworkers use dados which can take away from usable space. Attaching flush, except for bottom panel, can allow for max use of space. I like how he did the bottom panel as it hides under cabinet lighting a bit and screws needed to attach cabinet to the wall.
Just discovered your channel and enjoy the way you teach. I’m newly retired and picked up woodworking as a hobbie. What would be very helpful to people like me is if you would give measurements of the overall cabinet such as height, width, length. I feel when you do give measurements as you did building the face frame it makes understanding the process so much easier. Thank you for putting together all these videos, I’m a retired photographer so I know the work that goes into producing these videos. Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing more of your work. Next up…….. building my shop cabinet’s
Typical base cabinets are 24 inches deep and 36 inches high. As he stated Typically upper cabinets are 12 inches deep but he prefers 14, the height is determined by the ceiling height or how high you want your cabinets. The width of the cabinets are determined by the space you are building the cabinets for, each job is different, you divide the space by the number of cabinets. I noticed you're building cabinets in your shop so this should make sense.
@@bobproulx6621 anytime. I'm a carpenter of 40 years and install a lot of cabinets vs building them. As I stated each scenario is unique to itself, kitchen vs bathroom vs shop. I would recommend for a shop determine the exact use for each cabinet. Will it have all drawers or will it have doors? The other thing you want to keep in mind is you're working with 4 x 8 plywood, you want to maximize the cabinet size while minimizing waste. I would recommend finding some videos on that very subject. Good Luck in your new hobby there's a world of knowledge at your fingertips.
I see that you use the international glue spreader just as we all do.. Actually, it's nice to see that someone uses glue on their joints. I have talked to a lot of people that just don't use glue anymore and trust the face frame screws to do the job. That's nuts!!!!! Got to watch the color of poplar but it stains great too.. I stain it a lot.. I like your face frame demension..
I just subscribed a few videos ago. . Long story short, insurance loss, kitchen, cabinets are expensive and garbage from a store. The last customer I did woodworking for was the President of Ducks Unlimited and that was 20 years ago. For $20,000.00 I can build my own cabinets. Thanks for sharing with us 🙏 God Bless
Hello. So we have bit of a change coming up and must learn whole hekka load of custom make...things, which is my favorite things but never been swinging this way so know-how is low. Bunch of learning ahead, hah haa, I can't wait all this to get going. I like your videos and you are funny. Lotion, eh ;) Put it on the Santa list ;);) You have a mighty fine place over there and dat pocket hole maker was amazing. Anyways...you are gonna get handy. Thanks 👍
You clearly have skills and make this look easy. How hard would it be for a beginner to do this? My neighbor just got kitchen cabinets from Lowes for $12,000. Not installed, just dropped off at his house. I can't afford that. But, I could afford to spend $3,000 right now on some tools and materials. Maybe build some practice cabinets for my garage. And then as I save up some money, get more materials and build some more cabinets. Maybe they are good enough for my kitchen. If not, more cabinets for my garage. Hopefully, I could get good enough to build cabinets worthy of going in the kitchen. Am I crazy for considering this?
I'm curious why the pocket hole screws on the side to the face frame aren't on the outside where they may be hidden between cabinets and/or an end panel.
Great video. It is a shame that there're youtubers out there that have more subscribers and don't offer a fraction of what you do. Keep up the good work bud.
Hey!! I really enjoy your videos. You have had helping me a lot, since I just started building cabinets. On you upper cabinet video I have a question. Why the pocket holes to attach the face frame are in the inside? Just wonder.. I really enjoy watching your videos very well explained and very helpful Thank You in advance 🙏🏽
Man, I love how you build cabinets you have taught me a whole lot I do have a question however, do you sell a set of plans on how you set up your miter saw station
So I was curious why you don’t put the cabinet bottom in like you do in a bottom cabinet. I kinda get that the back is smooth because it makes the most room out of a reduced cabinet depth of upper cabinets.
So can we talk here??? Can you take pictures of your entire shop set up????? Seriously I have been in a ton of shops from people go do many different types of trades. I have never been happy with any one of them. I have never had a shop set up as most of my work was on site. But the more I look at yours, I am in love with it! PLEASE PRETTY PLEASE!!!
I like the work you do and the techniques you demonstrate. Your humor is great and nicely based on the work and situation at hand. I do wish you would either turn the music way down or eliminate it altogether as it detracts from what you're doing and makes wearing earphones very difficult. I really wish I had access to the poplar you have. I've worked with it and do love it.
I recently stumbled across your channel. No worries, I'm not hurt so I decided to subscribe. 🙂 I love building cabinets and simple furniture. I drill my shelf peg holes before assembly. Was that an oops or do you just drill them after the cabinet is assembled? I'm an East carolinian myself and live near Raleigh.
Thanks for the sub! And no I didn’t forget I usually do them on site and let the customer determine where they want the shelves. Not a huge fan of shelf pin holes all the way up the sides of cabinets. Awesome to see a local nearby! 👍🏻
hi! been looking for your videos for a couple of months, I would like to know, if you have to do a door that is smooth and not like a shaker style, would you use the same plywood that you use for your cabinets frame? thank you! keep up with the good videos!
Curious... 9:03... unless you can see under the cabinet and the sides are visible, why not use pocket holes around the entire bottom piece underside, so you don't have brad nail holes to fill on the sides? Same goes for the top piece topside. I put my face frame pocket holes on the outside, if the sides are not visible *and* the face frames are to be pre-installed before hanging the cabinets. Another trick I've seen is to build all cabinets the same, then use something like 1/4" plywood to dress out the visible sides (hides any mounting holes). The face frame would have to account for the extra 1/4".
Very good question! That’s exactly how I use to do it but realized pocket hole screws cost more and you really only have to fill holes on the end cabinets that will be seen. It takes about roughly 10-15 more pocket screws per cabinet and depending on how many you have to build can add up. But by all means you can certainly do it with pocket holes all round 👍🏻
Couple questions…the pocket holes that hold face frame, is it better to put pocket holes inside cabinet? Do they grab better?..2nd question…I have this same Kreg Forman, similar setup also. Just a question, why not use the dust collection underneath so you can push Forman back towards the wall abit.
Pocket holes don’t really matter inside or out. If the upper cabinet is going to be between cabinets you can put them on the outside that way they aren’t inside the cabinet. Also the foreman has to be stuck out slightly because it is inline with my miter fence so I can do pocket holes on long pieces. Hope this helps 👍🏻
Upper cabinets that attached to each other and a range upper cabinet that has a transition from top to bottom with the top dimensions the same as the dimensions of the cabinets on both sides transitioning to a bottom that protrudes out to a bigger diameter. Please do one video for me. I do like your videos we build the same way. There very good.
Most of the time clients don’t even pay it attention but if I need to cover them I’ll make my own plugs with dowels and that usually gives me great results! 👍🏻
I usually do this once cabinet is onsite and installed. Just because I’m not a fan of shelf pin holes top to bottom. Instead I like the client to tell me where they want shelves and I’ll add a few for adjustability 👍🏻
I usually drill shelf pin holes for shelves once cabinet is installed on-site. That way I can get a good location where the client wants them. Not a huge fan of shelf pin holes top to bottom I like the more custom look 👍🏻 thanks for subscribing and glad you enjoyed!
Would this be a strong enough top joint to suspend from the ceiling over a kitchen island? I am trying to figure out the best upper cabinet construction to be able to screw into the ceiling joists for mounting in my situation
Another excellent video! I do have a couple questions, as I’m new to this, and I’m truly trying to learn. When you make your drawer bottoms, you cut out the back piece of the drawer so the drawer bottom could slide in. Why do you do this instead of just Leaving the dado and building the drawer bottom into the drawer, like where it is built in it is not sliding in and out? Second question, with the upper cabinet you use Brad nails to hold the lower plywood in, do you have concerns with too much weight being placed on the lower shelf and the brad nails not supporting it? I know you use glue as well, But I was just thinking of how many dishes are on our lower shelf and yes that is sufficient for the weight. I’m sure it is, as you are a professional and wouldn’t keep doing something if it didn’t work, so I’m truly just looking for an education and not questioning your motives. If that makes sense.
All great questions! For the drawer bottoms I just like being able to slide in and out makes it easier during assembly. Plus if you do Undermount drawer slides you will have to do it this way or cut notches. Also for the brad nails on the bottom of the cabinet I don’t worry about it because it is glued. Also the bottom shelf is tied in the face frame with glue as well so it’s rock solid and not going anywhere 👍🏻 hope this answers your questions 😎
@6:00, I find it easier to simply clamp a block behind the piece being attached. This keeps the piece from doing the "Kreg Walk". Also, how do you plug the pocket holes on the "inside" of the cabinet?
Can I ask a question? Suppose that I want to place several carcasses together, how do I handle the face frame width (stile width) between two carcasses. If I make face frame for each box, the width will get doubled? Or do I need to compensate the width? I hope I make myself clear. . .
Really depends on the job and customer. Sometimes I find it easier to do on site so I know where and what the customer is going to put in them so I can drill my holes accordingly. I’m not a huge fan of drilling holes top to bottom inside the cabinet. I like drilling sets of 3-5 in locations where they want them for some adjustability. Looks more custom especially when there is glass doors 👍🏻
So assuming you had more shop space, would you still go about cutting your plywood the same way? Also, do you primarily use face frame cabinets for the same reason?
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Well congratulations on the success your having which is allowing for the addition to your shop. My reason for the questions, was that my son is also in the cabinet business here in Florida. His background is the building business, I was in the home building business for more than 45 years. That said, he was always attracted to the finish end of the business. He is a Florida state licensed building contractor, but his speciality is kitchen and bathroom remodeling and additions, primarily for kitchen remodels. He started his cabinet building business about 20 years ago in a small shop, and of coarse that limited the equipment he had. After a few years he moved to a new building with about 800 SF plus an office he really didnt need. 2 years later he moved within the same complex into 2 of the same units side by side. Even then, he was very limited as for space requirements necessary for buying material in larger quantities which result in better profit margins. But even more than that he was limited with the amount of and the size of the equipment he was able to use. For example, how do you drill the holes for the shelves in your cabinets? You use face frame cabinets primarily because you dont have an edge banding machine, and lack the required space to have one. And, hand edge banding is very time consuming. But, the Euro style cabinets will make you more competitive, and you can still offer the face frame cabinets to those who prefer them at an up charge. With an edge bander and a good saw setup you alone will do all the cutting and all the edge banding for a large kitchen in one day. As for the saw, There are 2 large rack saws worth considering. One is the Streibig and the other is the Holzher, both are very expensive new and not easy to find used. I would suggest calling Holzher in NC, they are a first class company to work with. About 5 years ago my son bought a 4000 sq ft shop that had been a cabinet shop. The owner had become very ill and has since died. The only piece of machinery worth saving was the large Striebig rack saw and the Oniada dust collection system. He traded the unusable edge bander for an older Holzher, which he is still using. Learn to service your own machinery, thats very important, and another reason to work with Holzher. He rather recently bought a new Grizzley sliding table saw also. Both the rack saw and the sliding table saw are used for the cutting process, and both work very well for that. He prefers using the rack saw for the long cuts, but the sliding table saw for all the others. He can also do long straight line rips on the table saw, pretty much eliminating the need for the jointer. So both saws have certain advantages. Neither of his saws are the programable type, and both have large 3 phase motors. When you build your new shop, be sure to wire it for 3 phase power. You will also cut your planer time by at least half, and have better results as well with a good planer with the right cutter head.
You briefly mentioned your relationship with your plywood dealer. Just wondering how you found that person? The only place I can find to deliver plywood is the big box stores. I get my hardwood from the lumber yard, but they don't deliver. Is there somewhere else I should be looking?
Really just depends on the size of the cabinet. Typically lower cabinets are bigger and so the 1/4 makes it lighter and easy to move around and better cost effective. Uppers depending on the job aren’t as big and from a building standpoint I don’t dado the uppers so this makes it easy to assemble. However when I do have big uppers I will dado a 1/4 panel in the back just like the lowers.
Question for myself and fellow cheapskates: Could you use 1/2 inch plywood instead of 3/4? It would cost less and be lighter to move around when you're mounting them.
Question - if that upper cabinet is one of a group of cabinets, should the face frame be flush with the outside wall of the cabinet? I am picturing several cabinets screwed together.
I wonder the same thing. Building cabinets today. Came to the comments to see how to deal with that space between the cabinets, the result of the face frame overhang
Well it just depends. There’s a lot of factors that play into it. This cabinet had an exposed end that would be painted so I moved the pocket holes to the inside. Pocket holes on the inside don’t affect most clients 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks I'm interested in your response here, what do you mean with from the face frame? how do you do it? you put holes in the face frame upside or something? and if there is a difference in the space between two cabinets because of the face frame, doesn't that get seen from the downside of the cabinets? like a separation space between them? sorry, english is not my language!
I’m not a fan of having holes top to bottom inside the cabinet. I let the client tell me how many shelves they want and where they want them and then I’ll drill a few holes above and below the shelf for some adjustability!
Depends on the cabinet. If it has exposed sides I put the pocket holes on the inside. If the cabinet is in between other cabinets I put them on the outside 👍🏻
0:40 "Start breaking down your plywood" ... ECW shouts insults at the plywood to break it down and make it feel inferior. Yah yah that was a bad 'knotty' joke. :)
Cabinets can display anything. Nobody but nobody addresses the issue of shop dust covering the French cleat items. Cabinets with sliding doors will solve the problem. Use lexan for visibility. Your thoughts. Better yet build one and make the video!!!! Thx
If I'm paying for custom cabinets the last thing I would want to see are exposed pocket holes. I would think, "why are they there?" Did I really pay for that? I'm just saying...
“Measure once cuss twice” is the most relatable phrase in woodworking
I’ve watched MANY videos on this and YOU are the only one who explained everything so well. I feel others are speaking to professional carpenters.
It might be boring, but I appreciate seeing all the glue parts. It’s a good reminder for us noobs to use the glue 👍
Lol definitely use glue! 👍🏻
I watched a few of your videos multiple times and they were very easy to follow, and entertaining! I built all new upper kitchen cabinets with shaker style doors and crown moulding at the top. People can't believe I made them. I used Zinsser Bullseye 123 as the primer and Sherwin Williams Emerald semi-gloss urethane with an airless sprayer and a fine finish tip. They came out beautifully. Then I used Watco satin lacquer and brushed it on for inside the case and shelves. Maple veneer edge banding was added to the sides of the shelves. Sanded each coat with 220 grit and they came out great. I didn't want to muck up the sprayer with the lacquer. I have $1,400 into all new uppers using 3/4" maple. Saved so much money and enjoyed doing the work. Thanks for videos!
Awesome! Love hearing how people save money and do it themselves!
For the first time since I’ve been doing my own work, I felt like I understood everything you were saying and was picturing it all in my head as I watched ( I’ve never been good at visualizing ). It’s a good feeling when things start to come together. The way you lay out the steps gets through to my brain better than anyone I’ve watched in the past. Thank you.
This is awesome! So glad I could help 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks for real bro. I’ve been woodworking for 20 years or so. You changing the game. Keep them coming! 🤙
I priced out 3/4 maple and it was very affordable. This simple, straight forward technique for upper cabinets is easy to follow making it very helpful.
Thanks for the great feedback 👍🏻
I requested my upper cabinets to be 16" deep when I remodeled my kitchen 4 years ago. So many don't think about the need for deeper uppers to accommodate larger dinner plates or more storage in general. I like that you do 14" deep uppers. Just a small adjustment to depth makes uppers so much more useful.
However it gets in the way of working on your counters. Really depends where they are mounted and what work is being done below them.
Hi, watched your channel from the Philippines. Thank you so much on your videos it has inspired us how to make furnitures ourselves. You make it looked so easy and fun to watch. More power on you.
Love 14” uppers! I install mine at 22.5” above counter top and use 2” miter stone edges on my countertops. I also ALWAYS fill the opening on the top of the base cabinets using kregg jig pocket holes so that makes for a solid base to lay stone countertops on. It raises the top measurement on the counter to floor but I have never had any clients complain about the taller measurements for all the new appliances that if you install in manner of older measurements means you have to pull your coffee maker out to flip the lid open to add water as the lid hits the upper in older installs. 😊
of all the videos this was the best!! simple no bs to the point...thank you. Obviously everyone has different ways they would like to do it. But this brings it to the masses.Great vid.
🤓
Just began watching your videos. I enjoyed the presentation along with the explanations of what is being done. The humor adds to the presentation and is appreciated.
I will be replacing the cabinet faces on my mobile home in Texas this year. Your face frame video was a great help. I have watched most all of your cabinet videos and have enjoyed them immensely !!!
That’s awesome! Glad I could help 🤙🏼
So far I’ve seen all your videos about building cabinets. I like your build technique, straightforward and your explanations are easy to reference/follow. Well done.
My 1st project was to build shaker cabinet doors. Had to really stay on my contractor table saw so it’s accurate, but other than that it went really good. I’m now ready to paint. I have a Graco 16N659 TrueCoat Plus II Paint Sprayer, with a Graco-TC-Pro-514 tip. Sure hope I don’t screw them up! WOW paint has gone up! I paid 75.00 for a gal. of Sherwin Williams trim and cabinet paint. Sweet Mother Martha!!
I love how intuitive your videos are. You definitely give me the confidence I need to build my own kitchen cabinets. Keep up the great videos. I'm just curious why you put the pocket holes for the face frame inside the cabinet where they can be seen instead of between the cabinets on the outside?
Nice to see that you use glue. I have seen other cabinet builders who don't and I've always wondered why not. The glue is to me, more important that the nails. Thanks again for your videos
I completely agree! Thanks for the feedback 👍🏻
What is your preferred method for hanging upper cabinets? Is the glue/brad nail method strong enough for the cabinet floor? How do you make holes in the sides for shelf pins? Enjoyed the video and found it helpful.
I'd like to see a video on how you install these? Do you use a French cleat or just screw it to the wall?
I screw it to the wall. Underneath the cabinet where the cutout is I place screws and up top in the cabinet. Super simple and easy! 👍🏻
Great videos. I am getting ready to build new cabinets for my kitchen and also a few built-ins. Can you share the measurements you used here and what size cabinet that will end up as?
Many woodworkers use dados which can take away from usable space. Attaching flush, except for bottom panel, can allow for max use of space. I like how he did the bottom panel as it hides under cabinet lighting a bit and screws needed to attach cabinet to the wall.
Just discovered your channel and enjoy the way you teach. I’m newly retired and picked up woodworking as a hobbie. What would be very helpful to people like me is if you would give measurements of the overall cabinet such as height, width, length. I feel when you do give measurements as you did building the face frame it makes understanding the process so much easier. Thank you for putting together all these videos, I’m a retired photographer so I know the work that goes into producing these videos. Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing more of your work. Next up…….. building my shop cabinet’s
Thanks for the great feedback 👍🏻
Typical base cabinets are 24 inches deep and 36 inches high. As he stated Typically upper cabinets are 12 inches deep but he prefers 14, the height is determined by the ceiling height or how high you want your cabinets. The width of the cabinets are determined by the space you are building the cabinets for, each job is different, you divide the space by the number of cabinets. I noticed you're building cabinets in your shop so this should make sense.
@@VAFSH4LIF thank you for the info.
@@bobproulx6621 anytime. I'm a carpenter of 40 years and install a lot of cabinets vs building them. As I stated each scenario is unique to itself, kitchen vs bathroom vs shop. I would recommend for a shop determine the exact use for each cabinet. Will it have all drawers or will it have doors? The other thing you want to keep in mind is you're working with 4 x 8 plywood, you want to maximize the cabinet size while minimizing waste. I would recommend finding some videos on that very subject. Good Luck in your new hobby there's a world of knowledge at your fingertips.
I see that you use the international glue spreader just as we all do.. Actually, it's nice to see that someone uses glue on their joints. I have talked to a lot of people that just don't use glue anymore and trust the face frame screws to do the job. That's nuts!!!!! Got to watch the color of poplar but it stains great too.. I stain it a lot.. I like your face frame demension..
I like all your videos. Easy to understand. And I would love to have your shop and all the equipment.❤❤❤❤
I just subscribed a few videos ago. . Long story short, insurance loss, kitchen, cabinets are expensive and garbage from a store. The last customer I did woodworking for was the President of Ducks Unlimited and that was 20 years ago. For $20,000.00 I can build my own cabinets. Thanks for sharing with us 🙏 God Bless
Hello. So we have bit of a change coming up and must learn whole hekka load of custom make...things, which is my favorite things but never been swinging this way so know-how is low. Bunch of learning ahead, hah haa, I can't wait all this to get going. I like your videos and you are funny. Lotion, eh ;) Put it on the Santa list ;);) You have a mighty fine place over there and dat pocket hole maker was amazing. Anyways...you are gonna get handy. Thanks 👍
Very high quality of ply wood.
You clearly have skills and make this look easy. How hard would it be for a beginner to do this? My neighbor just got kitchen cabinets from Lowes for $12,000. Not installed, just dropped off at his house. I can't afford that. But, I could afford to spend $3,000 right now on some tools and materials. Maybe build some practice cabinets for my garage. And then as I save up some money, get more materials and build some more cabinets. Maybe they are good enough for my kitchen. If not, more cabinets for my garage. Hopefully, I could get good enough to build cabinets worthy of going in the kitchen. Am I crazy for considering this?
Nicely done homie!
Thanks you 👍🏻
Great channel! So happy I found it today :D
I'm curious why the pocket hole screws on the side to the face frame aren't on the outside where they may be hidden between cabinets and/or an end panel.
Great video. It is a shame that there're youtubers out there that have more subscribers and don't offer a fraction of what you do. Keep up the good work bud.
Looks Great 👍
Hey!! I really enjoy your videos. You have had helping me a lot, since I just started building cabinets.
On you upper cabinet video I have a question. Why the pocket holes to attach the face frame are in the inside? Just wonder..
I really enjoy watching your videos very well explained and very helpful
Thank You in advance 🙏🏽
Good job
Man, I love how you build cabinets you have taught me a whole lot I do have a question however, do you sell a set of plans on how you set up your miter saw station
So I was curious why you don’t put the cabinet bottom in like you do in a bottom cabinet. I kinda get that the back is smooth because it makes the most room out of a reduced cabinet depth of upper cabinets.
So can we talk here??? Can you take pictures of your entire shop set up????? Seriously I have been in a ton of shops from people go do many different types of trades. I have never been happy with any one of them. I have never had a shop set up as most of my work was on site. But the more I look at yours, I am in love with it! PLEASE PRETTY PLEASE!!!
You should drive down from gville to the beach and come give me some ideas on my shop!!! 🍻
Awesome videos! Quick question tho, how would you attach another cabinet to this with the face frame overhanging the way it is?
I am so jealous of your logo…..😂
I like the work you do and the techniques you demonstrate. Your humor is great and nicely based on the work and situation at hand. I do wish you would either turn the music way down or eliminate it altogether as it detracts from what you're doing and makes wearing earphones very difficult. I really wish I had access to the poplar you have. I've worked with it and do love it.
Moving forward I’ve tried to dial back the music some but thanks for the feedback and I’m glad you enjoy my channel 👍🏻
I recently stumbled across your channel. No worries, I'm not hurt so I decided to subscribe. 🙂 I love building cabinets and simple furniture. I drill my shelf peg holes before assembly. Was that an oops or do you just drill them after the cabinet is assembled? I'm an East carolinian myself and live near Raleigh.
Thanks for the sub! And no I didn’t forget I usually do them on site and let the customer determine where they want the shelves. Not a huge fan of shelf pin holes all the way up the sides of cabinets. Awesome to see a local nearby! 👍🏻
hi! been looking for your videos for a couple of months, I would like to know, if you have to do a door that is smooth and not like a shaker style, would you use the same plywood that you use for your cabinets frame? thank you! keep up with the good videos!
Hi, I'm currently building my first set of kitchen cabinets and I decided to go with mdf, it has a very smooth surface. It has its cons like anything
I would like to know what size is your tubbing for your vacuum system?
Also do you have plans for your outfeed table?
4” sewer pipe and no I don’t have plans for it but I’ve been asked several times so I think I will make plans soon 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Thanks for the info! Great advice looking forward to your video on the outfeed table!
Curious... 9:03... unless you can see under the cabinet and the sides are visible, why not use pocket holes around the entire bottom piece underside, so you don't have brad nail holes to fill on the sides? Same goes for the top piece topside. I put my face frame pocket holes on the outside, if the sides are not visible *and* the face frames are to be pre-installed before hanging the cabinets. Another trick I've seen is to build all cabinets the same, then use something like 1/4" plywood to dress out the visible sides (hides any mounting holes). The face frame would have to account for the extra 1/4".
Very good question! That’s exactly how I use to do it but realized pocket hole screws cost more and you really only have to fill holes on the end cabinets that will be seen. It takes about roughly 10-15 more pocket screws per cabinet and depending on how many you have to build can add up. But by all means you can certainly do it with pocket holes all round 👍🏻
Couple questions…the pocket holes that hold face frame, is it better to put pocket holes inside cabinet? Do they grab better?..2nd question…I have this same Kreg Forman, similar setup also. Just a question, why not use the dust collection underneath so you can push Forman back towards the wall abit.
Pocket holes don’t really matter inside or out. If the upper cabinet is going to be between cabinets you can put them on the outside that way they aren’t inside the cabinet. Also the foreman has to be stuck out slightly because it is inline with my miter fence so I can do pocket holes on long pieces. Hope this helps 👍🏻
Great video what kind of plywood do you use
I use 3/4 maple ply 👍🏻
Upper cabinets that attached to each other and a range upper cabinet that has a transition from top to bottom with the top dimensions the same as the dimensions of the cabinets on both sides transitioning to a bottom that protrudes out to a bigger diameter.
Please do one video for me. I do like your videos we build the same way. There very good.
Do a video on your outfeed table!!!!
How do you like to hide the pocket holes on the inside of the cabinet carcass that you use to attach the face frame? Great video too!
Most of the time clients don’t even pay it attention but if I need to cover them I’ll make my own plugs with dowels and that usually gives me great results! 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks thank you for the reply :).
Great tutorials. Please did you use a 3/4 plywood for the back cover?
Thank you! And yes I did 👍🏻
When and how do you put your pin holes in for shelving?
I usually do this once cabinet is onsite and installed. Just because I’m not a fan of shelf pin holes top to bottom. Instead I like the client to tell me where they want shelves and I’ll add a few for adjustability 👍🏻
Great video, and yes, I subscribed, so don't bust my chops! When do you address the accommodations for the inner shelf supports? After painting?
I usually drill shelf pin holes for shelves once cabinet is installed on-site. That way I can get a good location where the client wants them. Not a huge fan of shelf pin holes top to bottom I like the more custom look 👍🏻 thanks for subscribing and glad you enjoyed!
Would this be a strong enough top joint to suspend from the ceiling over a kitchen island? I am trying to figure out the best upper cabinet construction to be able to screw into the ceiling joists for mounting in my situation
The music is to loud when you are not talking.... But the video is good
Too*
@@MrNateJSutton🙄
Another excellent video! I do have a couple questions, as I’m new to this, and I’m truly trying to learn. When you make your drawer bottoms, you cut out the back piece of the drawer so the drawer bottom could slide in. Why do you do this instead of just Leaving the dado and building the drawer bottom into the drawer, like where it is built in it is not sliding in and out? Second question, with the upper cabinet you use Brad nails to hold the lower plywood in, do you have concerns with too much weight being placed on the lower shelf and the brad nails not supporting it? I know you use glue as well, But I was just thinking of how many dishes are on our lower shelf and yes that is sufficient for the weight. I’m sure it is, as you are a professional and wouldn’t keep doing something if it didn’t work, so I’m truly just looking for an education and not questioning your motives. If that makes sense.
All great questions! For the drawer bottoms I just like being able to slide in and out makes it easier during assembly. Plus if you do Undermount drawer slides you will have to do it this way or cut notches. Also for the brad nails on the bottom of the cabinet I don’t worry about it because it is glued. Also the bottom shelf is tied in the face frame with glue as well so it’s rock solid and not going anywhere 👍🏻 hope this answers your questions 😎
@6:00, I find it easier to simply clamp a block behind the piece being attached. This keeps the piece from doing the "Kreg Walk". Also, how do you plug the pocket holes on the "inside" of the cabinet?
Depends on the customer. 90% of the customers don’t even care but when I do I use dowels or the pocket hole plugs 👍🏻
At your chop saw what kind of stop and track are you using?
I’m using t track and I just made a wooden stop but I’m in the process of designing a a better top block 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks can't wait to see what you come up with. Share a vid or some pics!
On your upper rail that you cut to 3 inches how much of a lip between the top panel overhang do you allow?
Can I ask a question? Suppose that I want to place several carcasses together, how do I handle the face frame width (stile width) between two carcasses. If I make face frame for each box, the width will get doubled? Or do I need to compensate the width? I hope I make myself clear. . .
If you were going to put holes for shelf pins at what stage would you have drilled those?
Really depends on the job and customer. Sometimes I find it easier to do on site so I know where and what the customer is going to put in them so I can drill my holes accordingly. I’m not a huge fan of drilling holes top to bottom inside the cabinet. I like drilling sets of 3-5 in locations where they want them for some adjustability. Looks more custom especially when there is glass doors 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks thank you
So assuming you had more shop space, would you still go about cutting your plywood the same way?
Also, do you primarily use face frame cabinets for the same reason?
No I would get a vertical panel saw. I’m getting a 50x30 added to my shop soon so I will definitely be getting one 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Well congratulations on the success your having which is allowing for the addition to your shop.
My reason for the questions, was that my son is also in the cabinet business here in Florida.
His background is the building business, I was in the home building business for more than 45 years.
That said, he was always attracted to the finish end of the business.
He is a Florida state licensed building contractor, but his speciality is kitchen and bathroom remodeling and additions, primarily for kitchen remodels.
He started his cabinet building business about 20 years ago in a small shop, and of coarse that limited the equipment he had.
After a few years he moved to a new building with about 800 SF plus an office he really didnt need.
2 years later he moved within the same complex into 2 of the same units side by side.
Even then, he was very limited as for space requirements necessary for buying material in larger quantities which result in better profit margins.
But even more than that he was limited with the amount of and the size of the equipment he was able to use.
For example, how do you drill the holes for the shelves in your cabinets?
You use face frame cabinets primarily because you dont have an edge banding machine, and lack the required space to have one.
And, hand edge banding is very time consuming.
But, the Euro style cabinets will make you more competitive, and you can still offer the face frame cabinets to those who prefer them at an up charge.
With an edge bander and a good saw setup you alone will do all the cutting and all the edge banding for a large kitchen in one day.
As for the saw, There are 2 large rack saws worth considering.
One is the Streibig and the other is the Holzher, both are very expensive new and not easy to find used.
I would suggest calling Holzher in NC, they are a first class company to work with.
About 5 years ago my son bought a 4000 sq ft shop that had been a cabinet shop.
The owner had become very ill and has since died.
The only piece of machinery worth saving was the large Striebig rack saw and the Oniada dust collection system.
He traded the unusable edge bander for an older Holzher, which he is still using.
Learn to service your own machinery, thats very important, and another reason to work with Holzher.
He rather recently bought a new Grizzley sliding table saw also.
Both the rack saw and the sliding table saw are used for the cutting process, and both work very well for that.
He prefers using the rack saw for the long cuts, but the sliding table saw for all the others.
He can also do long straight line rips on the table saw, pretty much eliminating the need for the jointer.
So both saws have certain advantages.
Neither of his saws are the programable type, and both have large 3 phase motors.
When you build your new shop, be sure to wire it for 3 phase power.
You will also cut your planer time by at least half, and have better results as well with a good planer with the right cutter head.
Where can I get woodpeckers mini t square
Old carpenters always say a fine line is always better than a measurement
Why not pocket screw the bottom shelf and the middle one is brad nails enough to hold any weight ?
You briefly mentioned your relationship with your plywood dealer. Just wondering how you found that person? The only place I can find to deliver plywood is the big box stores. I get my hardwood from the lumber yard, but they don't deliver. Is there somewhere else I should be looking?
Why put the pocket holes on the inside of the cabinet, did you plug them at least?
I thought you said you were going to round over the tops of the boxes after edge banding 😮
I usually break edges by hand when doing edge banding 😁
How about adjustable shelves?
How do you drill shelf holes
What type and size screws do you use
I use 1 1/4” pocket screws and 1 1/2 wood screws 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks thank you Sir
That mitre saw blade is spinning so fast that it looks like it's not spinning at all 😂
😂
Hi. Why are you placing the pocket screws on the inside of the cabinet? Why leave them visible?
can u build this frameless.
Ok I'm picking up on the glue. . . 🤠
Why do you use 3/4” ply on the back of the upper cabinet but only 1/4” ply on the bottom cabinet?
Really just depends on the size of the cabinet. Typically lower cabinets are bigger and so the 1/4 makes it lighter and easy to move around and better cost effective. Uppers depending on the job aren’t as big and from a building standpoint I don’t dado the uppers so this makes it easy to assemble. However when I do have big uppers I will dado a 1/4 panel in the back just like the lowers.
Question for myself and fellow cheapskates: Could you use 1/2 inch plywood instead of 3/4? It would cost less and be lighter to move around when you're mounting them.
Sure can! 👍🏻
Question - if that upper cabinet is one of a group of cabinets, should the face frame be flush with the outside wall of the cabinet? I am picturing several cabinets screwed together.
Not necessarily I screw my cabinet together through the face frames. There are multiple ways to build uppers this is just how I do it 👍🏻
I wonder the same thing. Building cabinets today. Came to the comments to see how to deal with that space between the cabinets, the result of the face frame overhang
Can you please advise what hose you are using for your track saw? I have seen this one in numerous videos but no one ever leaves a link for it.
It’s the festool midi dust extractor that I’m using and the hose it comes with! 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks thank you
How you like the Jessum attachment?
Love it 👌🏻
🔥🔥🔥
Do you work this off cad or sketch etc or just can visualize this easy?
Mostly visualize but if it’s complex I’ll take it to sketchup 👍🏻
Just curious why you put the pocket holes on the inside of the upper cabinet?
Well it just depends. There’s a lot of factors that play into it. This cabinet had an exposed end that would be painted so I moved the pocket holes to the inside. Pocket holes on the inside don’t affect most clients 👍🏻
Sorry if you said it and I missed it but what’s your typical face frame overhang? And do you use a spacer in the rear if screwing two sets together?
Typical overhang is 1/4” and I screw my cabinets together through the face frame. I don’t screw the actual carcass’s together. Hope this helps! 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks I'm interested in your response here, what do you mean with from the face frame? how do you do it? you put holes in the face frame upside or something? and if there is a difference in the space between two cabinets because of the face frame, doesn't that get seen from the downside of the cabinets? like a separation space between them? sorry, english is not my language!
On this upper cabinet, why did you not drill the 1/4 in holes for the shelving??
I’m not a fan of having holes top to bottom inside the cabinet. I let the client tell me how many shelves they want and where they want them and then I’ll drill a few holes above and below the shelf for some adjustability!
How far above your top do you have your face frame extend?
1 3/4”…I make the top rail 3” 👍🏻
What size brads do you use for the top and bottom shelf?
I usually do 3” at the top and 1.5” at the bottom 👍🏻
I’m sorry. I meant what size nails. Length and guage?
Why did you put pocket holes that are exposed on the inside of the cabinet instead of putting pocket holes on the outside of the cabinet?
Depends on the cabinet. If it has exposed sides I put the pocket holes on the inside. If the cabinet is in between other cabinets I put them on the outside 👍🏻
0:40 "Start breaking down your plywood" ... ECW shouts insults at the plywood to break it down and make it feel inferior. Yah yah that was a bad 'knotty' joke. :)
Why not put the pocket hole on the outside of the side pieces so they won’t show on the interior of the cabinet?
Do you fill the pocket holes with seen ty
Depends on the client. Some don’t care cause it’s inside the cabinet. But if they do I fill them 👍🏻
@@eastcarolinawoodworks Ty you keep up good work
what type of screws do you use? Size?
1 1/4” pocket screws 👍🏻
I’m really surprised you didn’t dado the lower shelf into place. Why not?
speed, I'm sure
What size screws go in the face frame?
I use 1 1/4” kreg screws for 3/4” material 👍🏻
👍
What’s the height of your upper cabinets usually?
Depends on the ceiling height. I usually like to take my cabinets all the way up to the ceiling
Cabinets can display anything. Nobody but nobody addresses the issue of shop dust covering the French cleat items. Cabinets with sliding doors will solve the problem. Use lexan for visibility. Your thoughts. Better yet build one and make the video!!!! Thx
I cannot believe how you lean over the table saw. One slip and you are gone
Hello I really like your work, do you write books on how to build cabinets?
Unfortunately I don’t sorry 😢
Why are you pocket holes on the inside of your cabinet?
If I'm paying for custom cabinets the last thing I would want to see are exposed pocket holes. I would think, "why are they there?" Did I really pay for that? I'm just saying...
Depends on the customer…some don’t care but for those who do instead of pocket holes I just glue and clamp the face frame on 👍🏻