This is a great idea for a small layout . I live in a small apartment and with a few adjustments it will be able to get my stuff out of storage and start to play again . Looking forward to the next video
Thank you for letting me explore this awesome hobby through your videos. I love the way you are presenting your design ideas, and showing sketches. It's really fun to see such an awesome hobby!
This project looks like it’s the perfect balance between a too small of a layout and too large of one. Two train operation with the ability to run decent sized trains in a manageable footprint. DCC control, options for future expansion or staging... what’s not to like? I’m looking forward to seeing this layout take shape.
Excellent video. The proportions are the best I've seen and I LOVE the top and bottom rails to allow for expansion. A lot of track still allowing for a good amount of space for housing, industry. New subscriber. Well done!!
Awesome thanks for the upload! I started a 3x6 layout just about identical with a dog and bone track plan. Life has been mental the past year so I still have a layout with the base foam board and a box of flex track still to be dealt with! This is the perfect motivation for me to get things going again. You make the foam board stacking part with tunnels etc look so easy. Cant wait too see this layout of yours progress
Thank you for your construction design build! I went for the build and it looks great. I had to do some slight changes due to the 2 inch pick foam is not available right now or hard to find. I went with 1 1/2 white foam board. So i adjusted the supporting 3 1'2 inch rails inside to make the foam level with the top outside perimeter boards. I also added a sheet of plywood as the base for the foam to rest on. I also used the Kregg pocket hold system for the joinery and i like that method in all my projects. No screw holes to do on the outside perimeter boards to show. Lumber prices are like wow though (Jan 2022). I was able to build for just under 300.00 USD dollars. I borrowed the leg supports construction from the Lionel train board build on TH-cam. It's a super strong support structure using no 8 2 1/2 inch wood screws.
Oh goodness. I don’t have any experience. I’m going to give this a try 😎. Drove to a local hobby store and ordered all of the Kato track. Will build the table next weekend. Looks really cool.
This looks much better than Steve's tiny layouts, which were not helpful for designing larger layouts. This looks very applicable to 4 x 8 and larger layouts! My 4 x 8 has been stalled, but there is much here to apply; many ideas here that I can still use.
I’m overwhelmed by all the different layouts I’ve seen however, yours seem to very well thought out. I’m not sure how my layout is going to look. (34”x70”) is all I have room for right now. I’ve been playing with switches and reverse loops but I’m not very well versed in electrical. I’ll keep watching and maybe the lights will turn on. 😎
Everything you've done everything I've seen that you've done is amazing the problem I'm having is the train engines will not make the corners unless I have a wider sheet I would have to have a 5x5 or 5x6 in order to get them to turn most your engines only have two axles on each truck that's not that's why like a yard tractor to me I went to Big road ones you know with the eight axles for axles per truck the Wednesday hauled out of those cold cars with but was it 1200 and some odd cold cars and six engines any suggestions to help my project move forward
Yeah, big locomotives and smaller radius curves are a problem. It becomes hard to have a portable/island type layout if you want to run that type of equipment. Still, I would think most should be fine if you go to a 4 foot width and 20-22” radius curves. Really, I haven’t seen anything that can’t do 18” radius curves in N scale. Obviously larger curves make things look better. Bigger than that and you need to look at having a shelf layout mounted to the walls with the middle of the room open or something along those lines.
Hi Steve, I love this entire series of videos. Really inspiring and makes me feel like I can do it! Do you have an estimate of the grade on the inclines? I’m struggling with that on my current layout. I’d like to go up 2” to have an overpass, but it seems like it’ll take FEET to get up 2 inches.
I really like this layout Steve. I printed off a copy of your plan to play with and make a few possible building location changes. It looks like the grid lines are showing the layout to be just under 3.5 x 5.5 instead of the 3 x 5 you show in your video. Which is the real size? My wife is hoping we can make it into a lake side resort of some sort.
It is in fact 3.5 x 5.5 feet. I originally had planned to do it in 3x5 feet but then opted to push it out a bit and go with a little larger minimum radius.
It is sculptamold, available at a lot of arts and craft and hobby type stores. I mix in brown paint, but you don't have to. Most people just paint it afterward, but if it has some color mixed in then if you break a piece off it will still have some color to it and won't look as bad as a patch of white plaster.
Steve, I'm in the middle of building my benchwork. It is 64.5" x 31.5". The outside frame is made out of 1"x4"s with 3 1"x3" stringers on the inside to support the 1" foam insulation board. I will also support the foam around the perimeter with .75" strip so that the foam will not slip on the edges. I've noticed that a lot of layouts put the foam insulation board on some type of ply sheet. With this size layout, do I really need the ply?
Probably you will be fine without it. But, I would generally prefer a thicker piece of foam if no plywood is used, but your wood free spans will be fairly short. But, you may still have the foam flex on you between the stringers. A thin piece of luan or underlayment (1/8”) glued to the bottom of the foam would dramatically increase stiffness and give you something to screw things to if needed. Or, if you did a couple layers of 1” foam glued together it would be super rigid. Other scenery glued on top of the foam can also increase rigidity, so just depends. You can probably try what you have planned and see if the foam flexes at all between the stringers. If it does, glue on another layer of foam (maybe even just half inch).
@@StevesTrains Thanks for your thoughts. I haven't installed the foam insulation yet and I'm glad I raised this question now. I never even considered that I might have to mount something under the bottom. It would be better to have some kind of thin ply or like you say luan. I'd rather do it correct now in the building stage rather than later realize I should have done that. I'm going to add it. Thank you for your expertise and great videos. Tom
Thanks for the video! Will definitely be following along as I’m currently starting on a 4x4 N layout centered around a figure 8 after a few years out of the hobby. Would anyone be able to provide me with the track planning tool being used in this video? I’ve been trying to plan it out by hand but am struggling to piece it all together.
I used AnyRail. I’m using AnyRail 5 not the latest version since I’m running it using crossover on a Mac and the new version won’t work correctly in that way.
@@StevesTrains I’ll look into it! This is the first time I’d be using a track planning software and am not familiar with how they work. I plan on using Kato unitrack, so their product line modeled in the software?
It would be a big coffee table but certainly you could put short stubby legs on it and a put a glass top. However you would have to have a lot of framing visible across the top since the span would be too large for a single piece of glass that big only supported but the edges unless it was really thick glass
No, I had to cut them down a bit to fit. I had to cut off about 5-6" of the long side and a couple feet of the short side of the ones for the base. I think I just cut one sheet into two 2x8' sheets so I could slide those up to the front on the passenger side. I have a Rav4, so can't by any means get a full 4x8 sheet in there.
I just printed the tunnels big enough to clear all rolling stock. The opening is much larger than commercial tunnel portals. Since the tunnels are on a curve I needed more clearance than usual. I’ll see if I have the printer file to get the dimensions. The track spacing is just standard Kato double track spacing. I’ll have to see what it is center to center but it is a couple of inches or so.
Im in the process of designing an n scale layout that will be 36'' x 14 ft. The base will be all one by three or six glued and screwed for strength. I was originally going to use 1/2 '' ply for the top until I saw your build. is the foam board going to be strong enough if I use it instead of plywood? it certainly looks more usable.
The 2" foam board is very strong and stable, though you still don't want to have long spans that are unsupported. There are good and bad things to using the foam for the layout base. It is certainly easier to carve and do things with in terms of scenery, but it can make track laying harder in some cases. When using flex track, you have to glue the track down as you go, you can't nail or screw the track down to the foam, and that can make the track installation a little trickier when using flex if you have a lot of curves. It of course doesn't matter much for straight track areas. Also, adding turnout machines and the like can be a bit trickier with foam, though still doable. The foam can also get dented and distorted from pressure, to where it is not level because of those dimples and what not created by squeezing it, or laying something heavy on it, etc. It will crush a bit, and those little dents and what not can be a problem for N scale, and may require you to fill them in with patching plaster or something like that. Wood of course is stronger and consistent in terms of being flat once you sand it, if needed, but can also expand/contract with moisture changes which foam doesn't do. It of course is harder to do things like add terrain below track level. If you don't need to carve the scenery much below track level, you can do something like gluing a 1/2" or 1" thick layer of foam to the plywood (you can get away with 3/8" or even 1/4" if you are using the 1" foam since that will add a lot of strength when glued to the wood), this way you have something to screw things to if needed, but still have an easy to cut base for trackside ditches and the like.
it is on the website here: www.steves-trains.com/post/n-scale-track-plans and here: www.steves-trains.com/post/building-a-3-5-x-5-5-n-scale-layout-part-1-benchwork-and-base-scenery
Hi Steve, I’m doing a train set for my 86 yr old dad. He built us train layouts back in the 70’s and they were great but now he has Parkinson’s and he can’t remember. He told the care giver that he wanted a train set two weeks ago so I bout him a Bachman train set but I would like to build a scenery for him that he can keep in his room a play with it at his leisure. So will this layout work for an HO scale train?
Quick question I am building my first HO scale layout do I need to use sculpt a mold outside or can I use it in my house, and does it get hot b/c I always see it steaming in your videos.
It doesn't get hot at all. Regular plaster will get warm as it cures, but this is a mix of plaster and a paper mache type product, and so it stays cooler. The scupltamold doesn't steam, though sometimes I use hot water so it cures faster and at times the garage is quite cold so that may cause some steam to be visible. More likely though it is just the dust from the powered sculptamold mix. You do want to try to avoid breathing that as much as possible. It is less messy than regular plaster, and I've used it in the house, but I always mix it outside or in the garage because the dust when pouring it out of the bag. The same goes for any kind of product that has plaster or other powered materials.
Hey Steve: I have my table built 3.5' x 6'. I bought a lot of the track according to your track list, now it doesn't fit. Also had to call Kato for some of the track because your numbers went out of production, but the where able to help with new numbers. Can you tell me the grades you are using and how high the grades are? Also where do you start the grades at? Do you have that info? And could you send it to my email? Thanks: Charlie
The grades are less than 3% mostly. The high and low point are both in the right front area where the upper level track crosses over the lower level. I have about a 2” clearance between the rail head and bottom of the bridge in that area. The small track pieces from Kato are available in track packs, if any other track part numbers have changed, let me know so I can update the website. If you send me a email through the form on the website I can reply to that if you want more detail.
I created them in AnyRail. You can also view them on the steves-trains.com website and I have some of them available for free download (the AnyRail files I mean). You can obviously save any static images of the plans you like.
Curves range from 12.4” to 18.9”. You can see a full parts list on the part 1 blog post here: www.steves-trains.com/post/building-a-3-5-x-5-5-n-scale-layout-part-1-benchwork-and-base-scenery
In N scale like this even those will run on 12.75” radius curves, but of course will look better on curves >15”. If you are talking HO scale then 22” would still be tight for those but they should work ok.
Probably be a few more weeks at least for the next main video. I'm making progress on the wiring and track tweaking, but that is a slow process that takes a while. I might have a little preview video before then though of the first train running on the layout, we shall see.
I want to copy this track layout, but do completely different scenary etc....It would be a dream. i mean i actually can do it because you have posted this :D!!! Thank you SO MUCHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.
In your other video about which track to use, some one said problem with unitrack is that it's hard to get superelavation and grades and curve easment, but it looks like those tracks do have it, i am looking at the any file from yourwebsite, i dont get it.
Kato makes superelevated track, but only in double track with a few radius curves. So if you can use one of those, then it works great, otherwise it doesn’t.
@@StevesTrains What about Easments, it seems like that id designed for that because the legths of the radius, am i correct?. God these easments n shit are making me all paranoid.
Just catching on your playlists. I like the idea of the vertical scoring of the foam board to create the tunnel lining. Very cool.
This is a great idea for a small layout . I live in a small apartment and with a few adjustments it will be able to get my stuff out of storage and start to play again . Looking forward to the next video
I was thinking the same except that I want a layout this size to be my first.
Legitimately the perfect size
Beautiful Table.
Nice little layout, full of scenic fun and operation potential.
Thank you for letting me explore this awesome hobby through your videos. I love the way you are presenting your design ideas, and showing sketches. It's really fun to see such an awesome hobby!
This channel is really helping me as a first timer to get an idea of how to build layouts!
This project looks like it’s the perfect balance between a too small of a layout and too large of one. Two train operation with the ability to run decent sized trains in a manageable footprint. DCC control, options for future expansion or staging... what’s not to like? I’m looking forward to seeing this layout take shape.
Like it, so many layouts on one level. Only just thought how high speed trains don't look out of scale at speed.
Steve always enjoy watching your videos. Great inspiration and useful construction tips.
Thanks for sharing this video and information. I certainly like your track plan for operating sessions and the idea of expansion options.
👍 Steve from Philly PA
Excellent video. The proportions are the best I've seen and I LOVE the top and bottom rails to allow for expansion. A lot of track still allowing for a good amount of space for housing, industry. New subscriber. Well done!!
Awesome thanks for the upload! I started a 3x6 layout just about identical with a dog and bone track plan. Life has been mental the past year so I still have a layout with the base foam board and a box of flex track still to be dealt with! This is the perfect motivation for me to get things going again. You make the foam board stacking part with tunnels etc look so easy. Cant wait too see this layout of yours progress
Thank you for your construction design build! I went for the build and it looks great. I had to do some slight changes due to the 2 inch pick foam is not available right now or hard to find. I went with 1 1/2 white foam board. So i adjusted the supporting 3 1'2 inch rails inside to make the foam level with the top outside perimeter boards. I also added a sheet of plywood as the base for the foam to rest on. I also used the Kregg pocket hold system for the joinery and i like that method in all my projects. No screw holes to do on the outside perimeter boards to show. Lumber prices are like wow though (Jan 2022). I was able to build for just under 300.00 USD dollars. I borrowed the leg supports construction from the
Lionel train board build on TH-cam. It's a super strong support structure using no 8 2 1/2 inch wood screws.
This is amazing! So much track in so little space!
Well thought out and executed! Thanks for the video!
Nice build, this is exactly what I want For my N scale layout, nice and easy and simple....
The garage will never be the same now.
this looks really good. good amount of track to scenery ratio. (like almost all of your layouts)
Oh goodness. I don’t have any experience. I’m going to give this a try 😎. Drove to a local hobby store and ordered all of the Kato track. Will build the table next weekend. Looks really cool.
How much does all that track cost
This looks much better than Steve's tiny layouts, which were not helpful for designing larger layouts. This looks very applicable to 4 x 8 and larger layouts! My 4 x 8 has been stalled, but there is much here to apply; many ideas here that I can still use.
My buddy got me interested , this is a great size and I really appreciate your construction methods!
Lovley work Steve the layout will look great when finished i will do some N gauge in the future.
Awesome 👌
I’m overwhelmed by all the different layouts I’ve seen however, yours seem to very well thought out. I’m not sure how my layout is going to look. (34”x70”) is all I have room for right now. I’ve been playing with switches and reverse loops but I’m not very well versed in electrical. I’ll keep watching and maybe the lights will turn on. 😎
Looks awesome !!! Great video !!!
this looks like great layout, i am doing a HO layout but do have plans for a N scale too
Cool thanks mate
Very cool
Nice
Mais um excelente Projeto!!
Aguardo os próximos vídeos!!
Forte abraço!
AWESOME!!! Keep up the good work.
very nice! i have a similar one im making but single track and 2x3
You should make a video or two with it.
@@jamesparson been taking pictures of the progress
Nice! 👍
The N scale layout with Kato unitracks DCC 3'×5' . I used Atlas and Bachmann tracks , for the curves flexible tracks Atlas .
I would be very interested to know about how long it took to complete all the work in this video.
Where do you make your layout is it online or do you draw it out
I use AnyRail software. www.anyrail.com/en/buy
@@StevesTrains I can vouch that is a good tool. See: th-cam.com/video/Sw99ud2OMxE/w-d-xo.html
Everything you've done everything I've seen that you've done is amazing the problem I'm having is the train engines will not make the corners unless I have a wider sheet I would have to have a 5x5 or 5x6 in order to get them to turn most your engines only have two axles on each truck that's not that's why like a yard tractor to me I went to Big road ones you know with the eight axles for axles per truck the Wednesday hauled out of those cold cars with but was it 1200 and some odd cold cars and six engines any suggestions to help my project move forward
Yeah, big locomotives and smaller radius curves are a problem. It becomes hard to have a portable/island type layout if you want to run that type of equipment. Still, I would think most should be fine if you go to a 4 foot width and 20-22” radius curves. Really, I haven’t seen anything that can’t do 18” radius curves in N scale. Obviously larger curves make things look better. Bigger than that and you need to look at having a shelf layout mounted to the walls with the middle of the room open or something along those lines.
Hi Steve, I love this entire series of videos. Really inspiring and makes me feel like I can do it!
Do you have an estimate of the grade on the inclines? I’m struggling with that on my current layout. I’d like to go up 2” to have an overpass, but it seems like it’ll take FEET to get up 2 inches.
The grade maxes out around 3%. Even that takes almost three feet to go up an inch.
Always look forward to your videos--well presented. Are you keeping track of your expenses on this project? That would be very helpful. Thanks.
This layout should end up around $2500 for all materials. I’ve kept track of most purchases and ballparked other material costs.
Thanks! Very helpful.
I really like this layout Steve. I printed off a copy of your plan to play with and make a few possible building location changes. It looks like the grid lines are showing the layout to be just under 3.5 x 5.5 instead of the 3 x 5 you show in your video. Which is the real size? My wife is hoping we can make it into a lake side resort of some sort.
It is in fact 3.5 x 5.5 feet. I originally had planned to do it in 3x5 feet but then opted to push it out a bit and go with a little larger minimum radius.
@@StevesTrains Thanks for confirming what I was seeing on the plan.
Thank you! very nice! Can I ask what is that brown material that you put on? Sorry my english is not so good I couldnt catch it
It is sculptamold, available at a lot of arts and craft and hobby type stores. I mix in brown paint, but you don't have to. Most people just paint it afterward, but if it has some color mixed in then if you break a piece off it will still have some color to it and won't look as bad as a patch of white plaster.
Steve, I'm in the middle of building my benchwork. It is 64.5" x 31.5". The outside frame is made out of 1"x4"s with 3 1"x3" stringers on the inside to support the 1" foam insulation board. I will also support the foam around the perimeter with .75" strip so that the foam will not slip on the edges. I've noticed that a lot of layouts put the foam insulation board on some type of ply sheet. With this size layout, do I really need the ply?
Probably you will be fine without it. But, I would generally prefer a thicker piece of foam if no plywood is used, but your wood free spans will be fairly short. But, you may still have the foam flex on you between the stringers. A thin piece of luan or underlayment (1/8”) glued to the bottom of the foam would dramatically increase stiffness and give you something to screw things to if needed. Or, if you did a couple layers of 1” foam glued together it would be super rigid. Other scenery glued on top of the foam can also increase rigidity, so just depends. You can probably try what you have planned and see if the foam flexes at all between the stringers. If it does, glue on another layer of foam (maybe even just half inch).
@@StevesTrains Thanks for your thoughts. I haven't installed the foam insulation yet and I'm glad I raised this question now. I never even considered that I might have to mount something under the bottom. It would be better to have some kind of thin ply or like you say luan. I'd rather do it correct now in the building stage rather than later realize I should have done that. I'm going to add it. Thank you for your expertise and great videos. Tom
Hi Steve I am building this layout I love it. I have a question what expandable foam do you use. Foams have different levels of expansion thanks.
Thanks for the video! Will definitely be following along as I’m currently starting on a 4x4 N layout centered around a figure 8 after a few years out of the hobby. Would anyone be able to provide me with the track planning tool being used in this video? I’ve been trying to plan it out by hand but am struggling to piece it all together.
I used AnyRail. I’m using AnyRail 5 not the latest version since I’m running it using crossover on a Mac and the new version won’t work correctly in that way.
@@StevesTrains I’ll look into it! This is the first time I’d be using a track planning software and am not familiar with how they work. I plan on using Kato unitrack, so their product line modeled in the software?
Yep, Kato unitrack, Peco track, atlas track, and others are all in the included track libraries.
See my Any Rail video: th-cam.com/video/Sw99ud2OMxE/w-d-xo.html
@@fevinman7162 big thumbs up for Anyrail. It’s very easy to use and has Unitrack in its library. I highly recommend it.
Im thinking of making something like this, but the benchwork as a coffee table. would that be possible for this layout by chance?
It would be a big coffee table but certainly you could put short stubby legs on it and a put a glass top. However you would have to have a lot of framing visible across the top since the span would be too large for a single piece of glass that big only supported but the edges unless it was really thick glass
Great video Steve. Were you able to transport the 4x8 sheets of foam board in your vehicle?
No, I had to cut them down a bit to fit. I had to cut off about 5-6" of the long side and a couple feet of the short side of the ones for the base. I think I just cut one sheet into two 2x8' sheets so I could slide those up to the front on the passenger side. I have a Rav4, so can't by any means get a full 4x8 sheet in there.
Got it, Thanks!
Did your 2 inch pink foam board have score marks in the sheets or not?
Yes I think it did
How much distance between single tracks, also size of tunnels?
I just printed the tunnels big enough to clear all rolling stock. The opening is much larger than commercial tunnel portals. Since the tunnels are on a curve I needed more clearance than usual. I’ll see if I have the printer file to get the dimensions. The track spacing is just standard Kato double track spacing. I’ll have to see what it is center to center but it is a couple of inches or so.
Im in the process of designing an n scale layout that will be 36'' x 14 ft. The base will be all one by three or six glued and screwed for strength. I was originally going to use 1/2 '' ply for the top until I saw your build. is the foam board going to be strong enough if I use it instead of plywood? it certainly looks more usable.
The 2" foam board is very strong and stable, though you still don't want to have long spans that are unsupported. There are good and bad things to using the foam for the layout base. It is certainly easier to carve and do things with in terms of scenery, but it can make track laying harder in some cases. When using flex track, you have to glue the track down as you go, you can't nail or screw the track down to the foam, and that can make the track installation a little trickier when using flex if you have a lot of curves. It of course doesn't matter much for straight track areas. Also, adding turnout machines and the like can be a bit trickier with foam, though still doable. The foam can also get dented and distorted from pressure, to where it is not level because of those dimples and what not created by squeezing it, or laying something heavy on it, etc. It will crush a bit, and those little dents and what not can be a problem for N scale, and may require you to fill them in with patching plaster or something like that. Wood of course is stronger and consistent in terms of being flat once you sand it, if needed, but can also expand/contract with moisture changes which foam doesn't do. It of course is harder to do things like add terrain below track level. If you don't need to carve the scenery much below track level, you can do something like gluing a 1/2" or 1" thick layer of foam to the plywood (you can get away with 3/8" or even 1/4" if you are using the 1" foam since that will add a lot of strength when glued to the wood), this way you have something to screw things to if needed, but still have an easy to cut base for trackside ditches and the like.
If I was hired to Build A train Table I would do it why Cause it’s therapudic And I love Model Railroading.
Is it possible to get a list of the track you used and how many pieces
oh nvm sorry
How do I get the track list for this table????
it is on the website here: www.steves-trains.com/post/n-scale-track-plans and here: www.steves-trains.com/post/building-a-3-5-x-5-5-n-scale-layout-part-1-benchwork-and-base-scenery
Hi Steve, I’m doing a train set for my 86 yr old dad. He built us train layouts back in the 70’s and they were great but now he has Parkinson’s and he can’t remember. He told the care giver that he wanted a train set two weeks ago so I bout him a Bachman train set but I would like to build a scenery for him that he can keep in his room a play with it at his leisure. So will this layout work for an HO scale train?
It would work in HO in terms of design, but the layout size would be 7-8’ deep and about 12 feet long in HO scale.
Quick question I am building my first HO scale layout do I need to use sculpt a mold outside or can I use it in my house, and does it get hot b/c I always see it steaming in your videos.
It doesn't get hot at all. Regular plaster will get warm as it cures, but this is a mix of plaster and a paper mache type product, and so it stays cooler. The scupltamold doesn't steam, though sometimes I use hot water so it cures faster and at times the garage is quite cold so that may cause some steam to be visible. More likely though it is just the dust from the powered sculptamold mix. You do want to try to avoid breathing that as much as possible. It is less messy than regular plaster, and I've used it in the house, but I always mix it outside or in the garage because the dust when pouring it out of the bag. The same goes for any kind of product that has plaster or other powered materials.
@@StevesTrains Thank you this helps alot!
so I making the layout in the basement should I mix the plaster outside then bring it inside or does it give off dangerous gasses?
@@lucasdavison7119 No gasses, just a lot of fine dust that will get on everything. Don't want to breathe the dust in either really.
Hey Steve: I have my table built 3.5' x 6'. I bought a lot of the track according to your track list, now it doesn't fit. Also had to call Kato for some of the track because your numbers went out of production, but the where able to help with new numbers. Can you tell me the grades you are using and how high the grades are? Also where do you start the grades at?
Do you have that info? And could you send it to my email?
Thanks:
Charlie
The grades are less than 3% mostly. The high and low point are both in the right front area where the upper level track crosses over the lower level. I have about a 2” clearance between the rail head and bottom of the bridge in that area. The small track pieces from Kato are available in track packs, if any other track part numbers have changed, let me know so I can update the website. If you send me a email through the form on the website I can reply to that if you want more detail.
Where are the layout plans from?
I created them in AnyRail. You can also view them on the steves-trains.com website and I have some of them available for free download (the AnyRail files I mean). You can obviously save any static images of the plans you like.
Hi, what was the total cost of the project?
Including all the electronics, streetlights, structures, scenery, etc. the total materials cost was over $3,000.
What app or websites do you use to do track plans
At the moment I use AnyRail
@@StevesTrains thanks because before I had to lay my track down and plan it without having a digital version first thanks
What radius is this?
Curves range from 12.4” to 18.9”. You can see a full parts list on the part 1 blog post here: www.steves-trains.com/post/building-a-3-5-x-5-5-n-scale-layout-part-1-benchwork-and-base-scenery
@@StevesTrains Thx! I want to run those long auto parts boxcars and autoracks. I guess 22" radius would be best, you think?
In N scale like this even those will run on 12.75” radius curves, but of course will look better on curves >15”. If you are talking HO scale then 22” would still be tight for those but they should work ok.
@@StevesTrains Thx!
How long to the next video
Probably be a few more weeks at least for the next main video. I'm making progress on the wiring and track tweaking, but that is a slow process that takes a while. I might have a little preview video before then though of the first train running on the layout, we shall see.
I want to copy this track layout, but do completely different scenary etc....It would be a dream. i mean i actually can do it because you have posted this :D!!! Thank you SO MUCHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.
In your other video about which track to use, some one said problem with unitrack is that it's hard to get superelavation and grades and curve easment, but it looks like those tracks do have it, i am looking at the any file from yourwebsite, i dont get it.
Kato makes superelevated track, but only in double track with a few radius curves. So if you can use one of those, then it works great, otherwise it doesn’t.
@@StevesTrains Oh i see that's cool.
Cheers legend!
@@StevesTrains What about Easments, it seems like that id designed for that because the legths of the radius, am i correct?. God these easments n shit are making me all paranoid.
Kato makes easement sections you have to use to transition from regular to super elevated track.