Hi question: i did swedish putty, now ready to spray hollandlac, when spray, what is better, to wet spraying or fast and thin coats when spraying? Thank you
Hi I’m going to be using this product to paint a front door. I understand the dust control is a huge factor in a quality finish, as well as allowing the door proper time before sanding between coats… how can I do this for a front door that is already on my house?
Hi Dan, Thank you for making these videos. I am on round three of all I could find of your videos. You’re a good teacher and very easy to follow and wish you were in my area. Unfortunately I am from Baltimore. There are a few painters in my area. They seem to be refinishing kitchen cabinets and I believe my job is too small to be on their busy schedules. I’m am attempting to refinish a solid mahogany casket. Yeah that right a casket. I can’t really afford to learn at the cost of FPOE. I recently purchased a painting tent and an exhaust system with a clean air intake. Would you consider talking to me at your convenience for about twenty minutes, I’m pretty sure I can find you contact info on the net. Dan, thanks again for making these videos…. Mike Molinaro I have an art background and really want to do this myself. I have purchased all of the solvents, finishes and supplies from fine paints. When I asked the paint store questions about the FP process they are tongue tied
@@DMZRPG I’m only intimidated by the subject of my project, I want to wine Hollanlac a mahogany casket. I fell like I should hire a certified pro but the estimate price was more that the coffin. The paint store should tell you this is paint for a seasoned professional.. before I spent the big dollars for the prep, primer, paint an all the supplies. I think I need to buy a spraying system and an exhausted painting tent next. I know a speck of dust is your enemy. I’m in over my head or maybe 6 feet under
I’m about to attempt this project (after the holidays) for my front door. I want the high gloss black piano finish. I’m doing all my research and purchasing now. I thought I was going to buy a sprayer. But it looks like this product is best with the brush. Do you have a product list available for everything that would be needed?
Product list: sandpaper 2 sheets of 220 and 400 grit each primer: FPE Universal primer tinted to final coat color 1 quart Solvent: 1 liter FPE mineral spirits Paint: 1 liter Hollandlac 98 Brushes: Omega S57 2.5 Flat. or Corona Ox Sash #11459 find and area that you can control the dust, wet the floor area to keep the dust down
@@HDFPainting Thank you so much for taking the time to get back to me. You are awesome! I will let you know how things are going and ask you if I have any other questions… you are the best!
Would you mind sharing the exact make and model of the brush you use in this video? It appears thinner than the 2 you listed and I' d like to try that for laying-off. Thank you very much for a superb video.
Dan I am getting ready to paint a historic entrance in Savannah and as it is a fixed exterior project what do you recommend I do to filter the air once I have assembled a plastic enclosure? I'm really worried about dust infiltration
in the uk for oil it would be oil wood primer oil undercoat 1or 2 coats of oil gloss but this traditional process cost far more than using acrylics so doesn't get used more no more
I’m painting with this kind of paint but I cleaned up really well where I’m painting i cleaned up with tack clothe really deep but when I painted the doors, the paint has a lot of garbage I don’t know what to do could you give me some tips please I’m using the dust exhaust machine but the paint still has garbage Im painting by brush windows and doors thank you
I have never tried spraying Fine Paints of Europe with and airless sprayer. I have only used an air assisted sprayer. The best results I have had are with a Kremlin sprayer.
Is there anything comparable in the states that is maybe a little cheaper? I've looked at automotive but it's expensive as well and maybe marine. Have you tried the Elite F.F. in 90?
Do u have a video on the putty? Do u sand after and then apply 1 coat primer, sand again and then first coat paint? Making sure I have this correct. Thanks for video!
@@Wisteria_Lane Have not tried E.F. Elite 90. I do not know of a high gloss product similar to FPE. We will be adding a video with Swedish Putty soon. Subscribe so you don't miss it. For now, after applying a thin coat of Swedish Putty and you sand it smooth with 320 grit sandpaper you don’t have to prime it before first coat of Brilliant.
It is a personal choice weather to wear a respirator when applying FPE solvent based products. I would suggest using one when sanding Fine Paints of Europe Swedish putty though.
I have been working on my front door for over 3 weeks. I am on my 3rd coat of paint and am still getting tiny bubbles. Getting very discouraged. Is there something I have missed? Should I spray instead of brush? and yes, I have all of their products. I called them direct and they said to add boiled linseed oil - which I did and I am still getting bubbles. HELP
The tiny bubbles are frustrating, so we feel your pain. Unfortunately, there are multiple potential causes for the bubbling. A process of elimination usually works best in troubleshooting this kind of issue. Make sure that: -The temperature and humidity in the room that the door is being painted in are within the manufacturer's recommendation -There is nothing on the surface of the door that could be causing the problem. Make sure that you sand the surface entirely, and that the door was properly sealed, and primed. -Make sure that you allow the primer to cure appropriately -Strain the product -Apply the finish in thin layers, allowing for cure time in between coats, with a clean (preferably new brush). If you are going to thin the paint before application, do not exceed 15% thinner and only use fine paints of europe mineral spirits. -Make sure the door is left to dry in a dust-free environment -Spraying this product requires a uniquely high level of skill and patience so that's not something I am inclined to recommend unless you have experience spraying oil-based finishes. -if the bubbles remain after you have tried all of this, you could try sanding the entire surface with 600, 800, and then 1200 grit paper to cut the bubbles. Then using boiled linseed oil and an electric buffer (sheep's wool works well) to polish the surface. This is not a typically recommended solution, but it will give you a finish that a lot of people would be happy with without having to shell out for a professional. - if all else fails, and you are at your wit's end, hire a Fine Paints of Europe Certified Painter and you will be much happier with the results.
So I have done everything u mentioned. This will be the 4th time I have sanded but not with 600 or 1200 grit. I call FPE and they told me to use boiled linseed in the paint so I did that but didn’t buff with linseed. What do u mean by straining the paint? Pour it in another can when adding thinner? My husband and I painted a practice piece of wood and the bubbles didn’t disappear until we cut the paint by 50% with FPE mineral oil and then it was a lighter color of course
@robinmorgan3269 hello, I may have a solution to your problem. "straining" the paint means is passing the paint through a mesh paint strainer/funnel. Around 100 microns should be good. But I don't think that's your issue. Reason I can say that is becuase I'm assuming the bubbles are consistently and uniformly spread out throughout the door correct? If so and you're not just getting bubbles in different small local areas, you can rule out dust and things of that nature (hence strainer). That being said, you're now left with a few other things. By the way you confidently speak, I would also assume you mixed the paint + additives properly without any contamination of your mix due to oil/silicon or other any chemical from outside/unknown source. This leads me to my conclusion. I believe is the result of the paint drying and flashing off too fast. I haven't used this brand before so I don't know what type of retarder they have for it. But you need to slow down the drying. Once it flashes off and develops a skin, it's still trying to off-gas through the surface. The surface even though a skin, is still fragile enough to be punctured by the gas bubble comming up from underneath. It's drying too fast because of your climate. Humidity+heat. I could be wrong. But I hope this helps.
I had the problem of solvent pop too on the 2nd coat of Brilliant. The first coat of Brilliant over the primer came out fine. Why would I only get solvent pop with my 2nd coat of Brilliant?
@@mikerichter1694 Solvent popping could be from: 1. Poor quality, incorrect, or too much thinner 2. Not enough drying time between coats 3. Paint laid on too thick 4. Drying temperature too high 5. If spraying, air pressure too low
@@tericrappel4548 Solvent popping could be from: 1. Poor quality, incorrect, or too much thinner 2. Not enough drying time between coats 3. Paint laid on too thick 4. Drying temperature too high 5. If spraying, air pressure too low
The amount of FPE thinner and penetrol depends on a couple of variables, humidity in the air, etc. Generally, we start with a ratio of 2/3 to 1/3. Dan Frost
Hi question: i did swedish putty, now ready to spray hollandlac, when spray, what is better, to wet spraying or fast and thin coats when spraying? Thank you
Hi I’m going to be using this product to paint a front door. I understand the dust control is a huge factor in a quality finish, as well as allowing the door proper time before sanding between coats… how can I do this for a front door that is already on my house?
Congrats for this video.
Really helpful.
For me it’s easy to apply hollandlac brilliant on trim than walls or ceilings.
Thank you for the video!
Anytime! Good luck and let me know how your project comes out.
Dan Frost
Thanks 😊
Hi Dan,
Thank you for making these videos. I am on round three of all I could find of your videos. You’re a good teacher and very easy to follow and wish you were in my area. Unfortunately I am from Baltimore.
There are a few painters in my area. They seem to be refinishing kitchen cabinets and I believe my job is too small to be on their busy schedules. I’m am attempting to refinish a solid mahogany casket. Yeah that right a casket. I can’t really afford to learn at the cost of FPOE. I recently purchased a painting tent and an exhaust system with a clean air intake.
Would you consider talking to me at your convenience for about twenty minutes, I’m pretty sure I can find you contact info on the net.
Dan, thanks again for making these videos….
Mike Molinaro
I have an art background and really want to do this myself. I have purchased all of the solvents, finishes and supplies from fine paints. When I asked the paint store questions about the FP process they are tongue tied
I can help you my friend.
@@DMZRPG I’m only intimidated by the subject of my project, I want to wine Hollanlac a mahogany casket. I fell like I should hire a certified pro but the estimate price was more that the coffin. The paint store should tell you this is paint for a seasoned professional.. before I spent the big dollars for the prep, primer, paint an all the supplies. I think I need to buy a spraying system and an exhausted painting tent next. I know a speck of dust is your enemy. I’m in over my head or maybe 6 feet under
Are there are trainings to learn how to paint FPE?
I’m about to attempt this project (after the holidays) for my front door. I want the high gloss black piano finish. I’m doing all my research and purchasing now.
I thought I was going to buy a sprayer. But it looks like this product is best with the brush. Do you have a product list available for everything that would be needed?
Product list:
sandpaper 2 sheets of 220 and 400 grit each
primer: FPE Universal primer tinted to final coat color 1 quart
Solvent: 1 liter FPE mineral spirits
Paint: 1 liter Hollandlac 98
Brushes: Omega S57 2.5 Flat. or Corona Ox Sash #11459
find and area that you can control the dust, wet the floor area to keep the dust down
@@HDFPainting Thank you so much for taking the time to get back to me. You are awesome! I will let you know how things are going and ask you if I have any other questions… you are the best!
@@JosephineSchwartz Do you mind sharing your results via email. I have TH-cam page as well. I want to do my front door and banister
@JosephineSchwartz so how did it go?
Would you mind sharing the exact make and model of the brush you use in this video? It appears thinner than the 2 you listed and I' d like to try that for laying-off. Thank you very much for a superb video.
Dan I am getting ready to paint a historic entrance in Savannah and as it is a fixed exterior project what do you recommend I do to filter the air once I have assembled a plastic enclosure? I'm really worried about dust infiltration
The best way to do this is to set up a plastic tent around the site and attach a HEPA air scrubber to filter out the dust and paint fumes
Can I spray with my hvlp cap sprayer ?
You can spray with an HVLP. The key is getting the consistency of the product, use FPE thinner and some penetrol.
in the uk for oil it would be oil wood primer oil undercoat 1or 2 coats of oil gloss but this traditional process cost far more than using acrylics so doesn't get used more no more
Can I use a lacquer thinner?
NO! Only use Fine Paints of Europe thinner.
I may have answered this already but do not use lacquer thinner with FPE
Dan Frost
I’m painting with this kind of paint but I cleaned up really well where I’m painting i cleaned up with tack clothe really deep but when I painted the doors, the paint has a lot of garbage I don’t know what to do could you give me some tips please
I’m using the dust exhaust machine but the paint still has garbage
Im painting by brush windows and doors thank you
Being that I don't have a sprayer, can you use a roller on my walls and ceiling?
You can use a roller, I would suggest a high quality sponge roller.
Can I spray with an Airless sprayer (Graco Nova 390)?
I have never tried spraying Fine Paints of Europe with and airless sprayer. I have only used an air assisted sprayer. The best results I have had are with a Kremlin sprayer.
I downloaded a guide by @paintedbykaylapayne so I could learn how to use this product on our interior doors. So excited to make the investment!!
Is there anything comparable in the states that is maybe a little cheaper? I've looked at automotive but it's expensive as well and maybe marine. Have you tried the Elite F.F. in 90?
Do u have a video on the putty? Do u sand after and then apply 1 coat primer, sand again and then first coat paint? Making sure I have this correct. Thanks for video!
@@Wisteria_Lane Have not tried E.F. Elite 90. I do not know of a high gloss product similar to FPE. We will be adding a video with Swedish Putty soon. Subscribe so you don't miss it. For now, after applying a thin coat of Swedish Putty and you sand it smooth with 320 grit sandpaper you don’t have to prime it before first coat of Brilliant.
Is a respirator needed? I notice in several DIY videos people apparently paint FPOE oil based paints without them.
It is a personal choice weather to wear a respirator when applying FPE solvent based products. I would suggest using one when sanding Fine Paints of Europe Swedish putty though.
Can u prime this product with zinsser shellac?
Nope
I have been working on my front door for over 3 weeks. I am on my 3rd coat of paint and am still getting tiny bubbles. Getting very discouraged. Is there something I have missed? Should I spray instead of brush? and yes, I have all of their products. I called them direct and they said to add boiled linseed oil - which I did and I am still getting bubbles. HELP
The tiny bubbles are frustrating, so we feel your pain. Unfortunately, there are multiple potential causes for the bubbling. A process of elimination usually works best in troubleshooting this kind of issue. Make sure that:
-The temperature and humidity in the room that the door is being painted in are within the manufacturer's recommendation
-There is nothing on the surface of the door that could be causing the problem. Make sure that you sand the surface entirely, and that the door was properly sealed, and primed.
-Make sure that you allow the primer to cure appropriately
-Strain the product
-Apply the finish in thin layers, allowing for cure time in between coats, with a clean (preferably new brush). If you are going to thin the paint before application, do not exceed 15% thinner and only use fine paints of europe mineral spirits.
-Make sure the door is left to dry in a dust-free environment
-Spraying this product requires a uniquely high level of skill and patience so that's not something I am inclined to recommend unless you have experience spraying oil-based finishes.
-if the bubbles remain after you have tried all of this, you could try sanding the entire surface with 600, 800, and then 1200 grit paper to cut the bubbles. Then using boiled linseed oil and an electric buffer (sheep's wool works well) to polish the surface. This is not a typically recommended solution, but it will give you a finish that a lot of people would be happy with without having to shell out for a professional.
- if all else fails, and you are at your wit's end, hire a Fine Paints of Europe Certified Painter and you will be much happier with the results.
So I have done everything u mentioned. This will be the 4th time I have sanded but not with 600 or 1200 grit. I call FPE and they told me to use boiled linseed in the paint so I did that but didn’t buff with linseed. What do u mean by straining the paint? Pour it in another can when adding thinner? My husband and I painted a practice piece of wood and the bubbles didn’t disappear until we cut the paint by 50% with FPE mineral oil and then it was a lighter color of course
@robinmorgan3269 hello, I may have a solution to your problem.
"straining" the paint means is passing the paint through a mesh paint strainer/funnel. Around 100 microns should be good. But I don't think that's your issue.
Reason I can say that is becuase I'm assuming the bubbles are consistently and uniformly spread out throughout the door correct? If so and you're not just getting bubbles in different small local areas, you can rule out dust and things of that nature (hence strainer). That being said, you're now left with a few other things.
By the way you confidently speak, I would also assume you mixed the paint + additives properly without any contamination of your mix due to oil/silicon or other any chemical from outside/unknown source. This leads me to my conclusion.
I believe is the result of the paint drying and flashing off too fast. I haven't used this brand before so I don't know what type of retarder they have for it. But you need to slow down the drying. Once it flashes off and develops a skin, it's still trying to off-gas through the surface. The surface even though a skin, is still fragile enough to be punctured by the gas bubble comming up from underneath. It's drying too fast because of your climate. Humidity+heat.
I could be wrong. But I hope this helps.
I just used this paint, thinned with mineral spirits and I’m getting a ton of solvent pops. Advice?
When thinning Fine Paints of Europe you have to use their thinner.
@@HDFPainting I am using their mineral spirits.
I had the problem of solvent pop too on the 2nd coat of Brilliant. The first coat of Brilliant over the primer came out fine. Why would I only get solvent pop with my 2nd coat of Brilliant?
@@mikerichter1694
Solvent popping could be from:
1. Poor quality, incorrect, or too much thinner
2. Not enough drying time between coats
3. Paint laid on too thick
4. Drying temperature too high
5. If spraying, air pressure too low
@@tericrappel4548
Solvent popping could be from:
1. Poor quality, incorrect, or too much thinner
2. Not enough drying time between coats
3. Paint laid on too thick
4. Drying temperature too high
5. If spraying, air pressure too low
Hi, I wanted some questions regarding picking out the right color for the trim and ceiling. Do you have an email?
hdfpainting@gmail.com
How much thinner and Flow are you using?
The amount of FPE thinner and penetrol depends on a couple of variables, humidity in the air, etc. Generally, we start with a ratio of 2/3 to 1/3. Dan Frost
@@danfrost2570 wow that’s a lot of thinner. I’ve never attempted to thin this product that much.
The cost of this paint and all paints now is insane !!!