THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO! I just did this today on 2011 Avalanche. Took me about 4 hours. Problems I had. 1. Getting fuel line off. 2. Electrical connection plug on sensor was a bear. There was a gray colored u shape tab that has to come up about eighth of inch to allow tab to push in and release connector. 3. Next problem and for me the hardest. The darn sensor was so tight it took a lot of effort to free it. But once that sensor was removed, I used a bolt to thread in the hold and catch the insides of the filter. Then pop that out and use same bolt threaded into new filter to provide a pushing rod for new filter. It will pop down in place in the hole and then I hand threaded the new sensor in. I'm not a mechanic but I am mechanical. I did it. I bought a special deep well socket with thin walls. Had to disconnect the end of one hose and disconnect fuel line ( use special tool) and remove the evap hose completely. Hope this can help someone else. THANKS AGAIN! YOUR VIDEO HELPED A LOT!
Interesting idea to unbolt the transmission mount to provide some extra space. One should know that I watched quite a few TH-cam videos before starting, but still had to lay towels over the engine, use a stool, and do some of the work left-handed. I was able to remove one end of a plastic tube at the rear of the engine for more clearance. I did not remove a second tube or the fuel line at its connection. I broke off the gray "protector" on the oil sender harness connector with a screwdriver, and with left hand pushing a long screwdriver against the connector tab and right hand on the connector, I was finally able to release the connector from the oil sender. The special 1 1/16" oil sender socket I bought like 25 years ago did not fit over the sender, I used a 27mm deep socket. Then I used a 1/2" wobble extension, about 5" long, and that was not easy to push into the 27mm deep socket, but the socket had to go on first. Then I used a stubby 1/2" drive flex ratchet to unscrew the oil sender. Of course once that was unthreaded it fell somewhere so that took 15 minutes or more to find & remove. So I went to O'Reilly and bought PS508 oil sender, which actually did fit my special socket (but I still used the 27mm deep one). So with the new sender (I did not even try to find if the engine had a filter screen, I didn't feel one) purchased, I tied a piece of twine around it it case I dropped that, and screwed that in a few turns with my left hand. Then I put the 27mm deep socket over that, then the wobble extension, then the stubby flex ratchet. 15 minutes later I had that screwed in, and actually in similar orientation as the factory one. So 10 minutes more to remove those tools without dropping them. So 15 minutes later I was able to blindly turn the connector to correct orientation to snap that on. I re-connected the one plastic pipe I had removed, and started the Yukon: no oil pressure displayed, and check engine light was still on. So I disconnected the battery, touched cables together to erase all codes/clear computer, reconnected the battery, and started it up: all was working - SUCCESS !!! So even though The Cuss cannot fix everything, I was successful today. Yes, this took me several hours, but since I'd just ordered Mrs. Cusser 4 new tires (as the 5-year-old ones were quite dry-rotted), felt why not save $300 to $500 by doing this myself. Some mechanics apparently remove the entire intake manifold for easy access, but that's labor hours. For me, trouble with the special oil sender socket I had threw me for a loop, but the 27mm deep socket I had did save me. Realize that 4 different times I packed up stuff and quit, saying the mechanic could try his luck Tuesday, but The Cuss is a persistent little cuss, for sure. Mrs. Cusser is ecstatic, and promised to take care of me tonight....
Another tip would be to unbolt the rear transmission mount. Lift the transmission in order to rock the engine way from the firewall a few inches. Gives you more room to work.
@@manbearpig2164 Yes. I did this on a sierra AWD. I just removed the two bolts for the rear trans mount and jacked the rear of the trans up until it hit the trans tunnel. This gives you about 2 more inches to work by the firewall. i didnt have to disconnect anything else at the engine. used a 27mm deep well socket.
@@JeffCloudDesign no need to disconnect anything else. Just unbolt the trans mount at the cross member and gently.jack up the tail end with a block of wood and a jack until you feel slight resistance
Jackson cruz, you are a genius sir. Thanks. Wife bought a really nice 13 Escalade and I’m working thru a couple issues. One power running board motor replaced , now on to the oil sending unit and a new driver side motor mount
ok heres the dealio. Was raining out so I went and got the sending unit with a lifetime warranty, instead of the 1 1/16" get a 27MM deep socket. SAE will work but it is a metric. SO, on the H2, all I had to take off is the cover. Did NOT remove any hoses. I tried before removing and it was possible. Literally it took me longer to gather up the stuff from my other front end project on my duramax. Probably end to end about 15 minutes. SO, i replaced it, managed to get it plugged back in and started. NO pressure. So, unplugged thinking maybe i screwed up a wire inside the plug, checked both and they were fine. plugged back in AND THIS TIME, unplugged the battery and let everything reset. Started again and it worked perfect. Kudos to you guys, both of you that tried it without taking off the intake.
Thanks so much for the vid. Just did this job without taking off the intake using your technique. I had to change a bad lifter 2 years ago on my Denali so I know how long the intake takes. Longest part was getting the oil pressure sensor connector off. 👍Thanks again!
I saw on a video on replacing the afm with an aftermarket delete kit that the top plate on these engine has loose bolts, the guy showed himself unscrewing them by hand, so I would maybe suggest removing the intake manifold and ensure that those bolts are tightened to prevent oil leaks
Excellent. Thanks for the vid. Gotta do one on my Hummer H2 as it may be the source of an oil leak I have. I hope it goes as smooth as yours did. You made it look real easy. Thank again.
I have a 2007 Sierra Denali with the 6.2L (L92) and I’ve taken pics and dug down with a pick and there’s definitely no screen/filter below the sensor. So I guess I save $6.
How do you remove the electrical clip on top of the sensor? I can’t see or feel what needs to be pushed, pulled, turned, twist and pull, turn and push? Wtf? Hours of attempts …. How about a pic with details how it works ? I cannot remove that clip
How tight do you need to tighten the sensor. I'm very worried about over tightening the sensor but also worried if it's not tight enough lol. Any suggestions?
Hey buddy 6.2l they come or they not come with filter my denali I just change the sensor but I never see filter inside .and I try to put new one but don't go all the way down
@@SuperReverbious I just did my neighbors, spent about an hour trying to find the filter, took pictures as good as I can, but I could not see it or feel it, I guess it doesn't take one, 2007 6.2
I agree. I would replace the screen that’s under the sensor too. If the screen is clogged then no pressure will get to the sensor. Just use a pick to pull the old one out. They are like $5.00. I also set a moving blanket on the engine and just laid on it. Glad it work for him and it’s a good video.
THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO!
I just did this today on 2011 Avalanche.
Took me about 4 hours.
Problems I had. 1. Getting fuel line off. 2. Electrical connection plug on sensor was a bear. There was a gray colored u shape tab that has to come up about eighth of inch to allow tab to push in and release connector.
3. Next problem and for me the hardest. The darn sensor was so tight it took a lot of effort to free it. But once that sensor was removed, I used a bolt to thread in the hold and catch the insides of the filter. Then pop that out and use same bolt threaded into new filter to provide a pushing rod for new filter. It will pop down in place in the hole and then I hand threaded the new sensor in.
I'm not a mechanic but I am mechanical. I did it. I bought a special deep well socket with thin walls. Had to disconnect the end of one hose and disconnect fuel line ( use special tool) and remove the evap hose completely.
Hope this can help someone else. THANKS AGAIN! YOUR VIDEO HELPED A LOT!
I just did mine on a 13 1500 silverado. Didnt disconnect anything it can be done but its tight. Thanks for the video amigo
How did you get that darn cap with the wires that connects to the sensor off? I’ve given myself arthritis just trying.
Interesting idea to unbolt the transmission mount to provide some extra space. One should know that I watched quite a few TH-cam videos before starting, but still had to lay towels over the engine, use a stool, and do some of the work left-handed. I was able to remove one end of a plastic tube at the rear of the engine for more clearance. I did not remove a second tube or the fuel line at its connection. I broke off the gray "protector" on the oil sender harness connector with a screwdriver, and with left hand pushing a long screwdriver against the connector tab and right hand on the connector, I was finally able to release the connector from the oil sender. The special 1 1/16" oil sender socket I bought like 25 years ago did not fit over the sender, I used a 27mm deep socket. Then I used a 1/2" wobble extension, about 5" long, and that was not easy to push into the 27mm deep socket, but the socket had to go on first. Then I used a stubby 1/2" drive flex ratchet to unscrew the oil sender.
Of course once that was unthreaded it fell somewhere so that took 15 minutes or more to find & remove. So I went to O'Reilly and bought PS508 oil sender, which actually did fit my special socket (but I still used the 27mm deep one).
So with the new sender (I did not even try to find if the engine had a filter screen, I didn't feel one) purchased, I tied a piece of twine around it it case I dropped that, and screwed that in a few turns with my left hand. Then I put the 27mm deep socket over that, then the wobble extension, then the stubby flex ratchet. 15 minutes later I had that screwed in, and actually in similar orientation as the factory one. So 10 minutes more to remove those tools without dropping them. So 15 minutes later I was able to blindly turn the connector to correct orientation to snap that on.
I re-connected the one plastic pipe I had removed, and started the Yukon: no oil pressure displayed, and check engine light was still on. So I disconnected the battery, touched cables together to erase all codes/clear computer, reconnected the battery, and started it up: all was working - SUCCESS !!!
So even though The Cuss cannot fix everything, I was successful today. Yes, this took me several hours, but since I'd just ordered Mrs. Cusser 4 new tires (as the 5-year-old ones were quite dry-rotted), felt why not save $300 to $500 by doing this myself. Some mechanics apparently remove the entire intake manifold for easy access, but that's labor hours. For me, trouble with the special oil sender socket I had threw me for a loop, but the 27mm deep socket I had did save me.
Realize that 4 different times I packed up stuff and quit, saying the mechanic could try his luck Tuesday, but The Cuss is a persistent little cuss, for sure. Mrs. Cusser is ecstatic, and promised to take care of me tonight....
Another tip would be to unbolt the rear transmission mount. Lift the transmission in order to rock the engine way from the firewall a few inches. Gives you more room to work.
Have you done that on this type of vehicle, do you need to disconnect the driveline
@@manbearpig2164 Yes. I did this on a sierra AWD. I just removed the two bolts for the rear trans mount and jacked the rear of the trans up until it hit the trans tunnel. This gives you about 2 more inches to work by the firewall. i didnt have to disconnect anything else at the engine. used a 27mm deep well socket.
Jackson Cruz did you disconnect driveline or is it enough flex to be ok?
@@JeffCloudDesign no need to disconnect anything else. Just unbolt the trans mount at the cross member and gently.jack up the tail end with a block of wood and a jack until you feel slight resistance
Jackson cruz, you are a genius sir. Thanks. Wife bought a really nice 13 Escalade and I’m working thru a couple issues. One power running board motor replaced , now on to the oil sending unit and a new driver side motor mount
ok heres the dealio. Was raining out so I went and got the sending unit with a lifetime warranty, instead of the 1 1/16" get a 27MM deep socket. SAE will work but it is a metric. SO, on the H2, all I had to take off is the cover. Did NOT remove any hoses. I tried before removing and it was possible. Literally it took me longer to gather up the stuff from my other front end project on my duramax. Probably end to end about 15 minutes. SO, i replaced it, managed to get it plugged back in and started. NO pressure. So, unplugged thinking maybe i screwed up a wire inside the plug, checked both and they were fine. plugged back in AND THIS TIME, unplugged the battery and let everything reset. Started again and it worked perfect. Kudos to you guys, both of you that tried it without taking off the intake.
There is a oil small filter underneath of the switch that you also should be replacing.
Thank you so much for sharing your find. I was concerned about my engine. You have helped me tramendously. Blesssings upon you😊
dude that rocks. Had a H2 mysteriously stop registering oil pressure I suspect the sending unit as well.
How did it work out with your H2? I just got my part today so I'll be tackling it tomorrow.
Its cold. Like 18degreesF, thinking I had to buy new gaskets take off intake, alternator yadayada. Dude...thank you isn't enough.
Good on your wife. Pretty sure mine doesn’t know what a gauge is.
Thanks so much for the vid. Just did this job without taking off the intake using your technique. I had to change a bad lifter 2 years ago on my Denali so I know how long the intake takes. Longest part was getting the oil pressure sensor connector off. 👍Thanks again!
How do you take it off? Is there something that releases so it can unplug?
Awesome video!!!!! Thank you.
Few scrapes and bruises but well worth it 😊
I saw on a video on replacing the afm with an aftermarket delete kit that the top plate on these engine has loose bolts, the guy showed himself unscrewing them by hand, so I would maybe suggest removing the intake manifold and ensure that those bolts are tightened to prevent oil leaks
I’ve got this same dang problem with my 13 6.2 Denali… looks fun lol
Well explain. Most times I have disconnecting the lines.
Good job bro guys like you are what makes me able to accomplish my own work!!! Thank you
Excellent. Thanks for the vid. Gotta do one on my Hummer H2 as it may be the source of an oil leak I have. I hope it goes as smooth as yours did. You made it look real easy. Thank again.
You don't need to disconnect any of those lines. Also, you'll want to replace the sensor filter too
EXCELLENT. This video helped so much. Thank you
Thanks for the vid replaced mines today using this concept
Awesome very simple and informative video sir. I'm gonna try it tomorrow
Man I replaced this on my Denali it was literally torture it took me 6 hours the connecter that has the little tabs is what kicked my ass
Great video!! This helped out a lot but I did notice you didn’t check out the filter that sits below the sensor.
Fuck that filter! Lol
Check it? Fuck yank it out and don’t put it back in. Just another source of issues
Thank you very much....! I have 07 Ext Escalade with the same problem...
I got caught with this in the dead of winter in Winnipeg, it was worth the 400
Great job
Thanks for a great how to video.
I think I need to do the same thing good info
This sure helped me! Thanks!
Good job I will try mines this weekend ! Appreciate it
Great video very helpful
Gracias amigo gringo ☺️
I have a 2007 Sierra Denali with the 6.2L (L92) and I’ve taken pics and dug down with a pick and there’s definitely no screen/filter below the sensor. So I guess I save $6.
Hello, can that plastic sound piece or heat shield whatever it is, can it be cut to asses the sensor much easier?
Thank you.
How do you remove the electrical clip on top of the sensor? I can’t see or feel what needs to be pushed, pulled, turned, twist and pull, turn and push? Wtf? Hours of attempts …. How about a pic with details how it works ? I cannot remove that clip
How tight do you need to tighten the sensor. I'm very worried about over tightening the sensor but also worried if it's not tight enough lol.
Any suggestions?
David Samual Auto Zone told me 26 ft pounds. Good luck!
Can I go ahead and unplug the battery before doing this job and hook it back up once I’m done? Or must I do that part last?
Hey buddy 6.2l they come or they not come with filter my denali I just change the sensor but I never see filter inside .and I try to put new one but don't go all the way down
Same here did you figure it out?
What’s your oil pressure at idle when hot?
Mine is 20 psi...
What about the Filter ?
You didn't replace the filter that goes with it, that needs to be done as well.
If it's a GMC 6.2L, it may not have one. My 2009 doesn't - confirmed by dealer parts counter.
My 2004 had none
@@SuperReverbious I just did my neighbors, spent about an hour trying to find the filter, took pictures as good as I can, but I could not see it or feel it, I guess it doesn't take one, 2007 6.2
07 escalade I didn’t see a screen...
My 2007 Denali didn’t have a filter had pick inside trying to pull it out and notice there was none. Does it matter that the screen is not there?
What no filter change 🤔 might have been a bunch of work for nothing without replacing that little filter under the sensor
I agree. I would replace the screen that’s under the sensor too. If the screen is clogged then no pressure will get to the sensor. Just use a pick to pull the old one out. They are like $5.00. I also set a moving blanket on the engine and just laid on it. Glad it work for him and it’s a good video.
Did you replace the screen before you put the oil pressure sensor in?
I wonder if they did that and how could it be taken out with this method
My 2008 denali showing 0% engine oil life i just change the oil
Reset the percentage
Has nothing to do with oil pressure.
How do you release the plug on the sensor unit
Pull the clip back and lift off at the same time .
You forgot to take out and replace the screen filter that's inside of there.. sits just below the threads
Can you still take it out with the intake on? I'm assuming you can.
you forgot to change the screen?
What exhaust u running
Just stock.
How come no one is replacing the filter!!
Right
Please do not wear rings on finger while working on anything electric or mechanical.... Very very dangerous....😐
Omg! Why a mechanic charge me 200 to replace this 😳
Hate the shit lol
Took me 35 mins...no biggy