TB6612FNG H-Bridge Motor Controller - Better than L298N?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2024
- Today we are going to work with the TB6612FNG, a MOSFET-based H-Bridge Motor Controller that has many advantages over the popular L298N.
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When you want to control the speed and direction of a DC Motor an H-Bridge is what you need. And when working with low-voltage motors the go-to module has always been the L298N. It’s cheap, easy to use, and available from just about everywhere you buy electronic parts.
But the L298N is far from perfect. It drops the motor voltage by 1.4-volts and dissipates all of that lost power as heat, which is why it requires such a large heatsink. And it’s pretty large, mostly due to that big hunk of metal.
The problem with the L298N is that it uses bipolar junction transistors (BJTs). A better way to design an H-Bridge is to use MOSFETs.
Enter the TB6612FNG. This MOSFET-based H-Bridge can replace the L298N in most applications, and it is so efficient that it doesn’t even require a heatsink! It’s a few pennies more than the L298N, but as I’m sure you'll see, it’s well worth it.
This device is also much smaller than the L298N, it’s available on dedicated motor control modules, on Arduino shields, and HATs for the Raspberry Pi. And, perhaps best of all, you can wire it into your L298N circuit and use the same code with it!
Here is what we will be covering today in our look at this H-Bridge motor controller:
00:00 - Introduction
02:03 - Introduction to TB6612FNG
04:55 - Look at TB6612FNG
06:58- TB6612FNG vs L298N
09:50 - TB6612FNG Arduino Hookup
25:06 - Ugly Robot Car
Yes, the last one was an “ugly robot car”. I put the TB6612FNG onto one of those acrylic car bases and gave it a test using a versatile library from Sparkfun. I think you’ll agree, that’s one ugly car - but it does work!
I hope you enjoy the video! - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Many years ago, I had an idea which I implemented and ended up inventing a reversible motor-controller using bipolar transistors. Later on, I found out it was already a thing called an H-bridge and that using MOSFETs would have fixed the problems I had with my version. Sometimes reinventing the wheel is a learning opportunity. 🤷
I do as well, hbridge is the magic
Not sometimes, but almost always.
Hey can you help me with my H bridge l298n motor, it outputs 1v (maximum) though it’s connected to a 11.1v power supply source through the 12v vin. I need 6v at least to run my motor at its perfect speed
You sir are a gentlemen and a scholar. The amount of effort you put into these videos is just amazing and I cannot thank you enough for all the help I find on this channel and your website. You contribute so much to the make community and are such an awesome teacher, make that Professor.
Thank you for bringing the module in the picture. Very well done !
I really think you channel is one of the best out there. Thank you for all that you do. Much respect from Vegas.
Just starting out with arduino and I'm really thankful for your videos! So informative, easy to understand and pleasant to listen to! Thanks a lot!
Once again, a perfect video. You gave us all the specs up front and a side-by-side comparison between the H-bridges, and went all the way through coding and building a "Pretty Ghetto Robot Car"! You had me ROFL with that line! Should have made that the title! Liked and subscribed!
awesome. I was able to utilize this build to control an automatic herb watering pot for my mom. I was attempting to use transistors because I didn't have any MOSFETs but it wasn't enough power. I had a couple of TB6612FNGs sitting around for a car project I planned a while back so I used it for this. Thanks again for the comprehensive tutorials. Cheers!
Thanks for bringing this new board to my attention. I still have my Original project that I made from your first demo. I've kept it as a reminder from when I started working on DIY electronic projects.
So I’m ordering in a few of them for testing.
I have a small track robot kit sill sitting in its shipping’s box. About a 1/4 the size of the first car. The new board is a perfect size for this little bot! I am planning to have this one setup to be driven by a smartphone app using Bluetooth.
I believe your back east and winter is taking hold , for me I’m going out to mow my lawn (I’m in Vancouver ) lol
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and have a wonderful Christmas
Nice little replacement for certain projects...thanks for sharing...
Thank you very much... Your videos are really helping us
Well done Bill.. what a car! you must add a picture to the Drone bot hall of fame! Have a Merry Christmas my friend!carry on and thanks..
An excellent motor driver replacement for my mobot. Thanks!
Great content! Very informative and easy to understand.
Great video, as always. Order one TB6612FNG already for my battery powered little robot.
Many thanks for yet another wonderful video!
Thnxs Bill. As usual, very well explained !
Cool. Fun. I enjoyed your project. It's very nicely done. Appreciated. Thank you.
This was really useful. Many thanks.
You videos are always very good. Thank you very much.
amazingly good explanation!! thanks
"Making the device compatible with both 3.3 and 5v logic" - thank you DroneBot another helpful video.
This clip was right on time. I am working on a dc motor using L298N, but I was not happy with its size. It's because I am planing to use this circuit in a RC plane. Using TB6612FNG is a perfect solution. Thanks for yet another great video and a very on time helpful hint for me. Please keep the videos coming!!!
I am thinking of doing something similar but I am not sure whether this motor controller can support the maximum current draw of a couple of (or atleast one) micro coreless DC motor. Have you tried it or something similar? I would love to know how your project went
Very helpful information.
THANKS BRO, VERY USEFUL VIDEO, GREAT JOB
Good stuff, thanks!
Great video.... learned alot...... one thing i'd like you to go through would be your workshop setup.. looks like you make alot of good design decisions ... might help us organise ours or rebuild using soem of your tricks !! maybe you might have done things different .... things you fins very handy .. like sound controls in front of desktop etc... just an idea !
Thanks, this looks like just what I need for my little tank :)
Exactly my need as well. Did it work well for you?
good explanation I subscribed ... your videos are perfect .....
Iam moving to this motor controller.....thanks for sharing ....
will try this , got one
Very useful video! Thanks for sharing. Just subscribed! :)
You are the Best! Tks
Nice lesson sir..
Hooray! Wonderful 😊!
Great Video! Keep up the great work, you are really good at this, plus I need your help all the time to learn these controllers. I just and M.E.
After I watched this video I bought the emakefun ps2x motor driver shield .. it has the tb6612fng controller, plus a few other bells and whistles. What I found that was kinda cool is the playstation 2 controller port on the board. It works, I used it with a cheap knockoff Ps2 wireless controller.
If I recall, the maximum voltage for the chip was 6.5 V. Some fresh alkaline batteries I have checked come with as much as 1.6 V actual and lithium batteries may be even 1.7 V. Those numbers of course are unloaded readings, but in any case 4 of them seem to exceed the maximum specified voltage for the chip.
Thanks a lot😍
This is a terrific channel you have going here! Thank you! I am working on a similar project as the one in this video but I need to know how to detect sudden dc motor stall current so I can stop the motors. I was thinking maybe I need to determine how to trigger stop based on rate of rise of motor current? A follow up video on achieving this would be phenomenal. Thanks again.
A hall effect sensor maybe would work. At stall, the current is at max and so is the magnetic field which is what the hall sensor detects. It is also non-contact.
@@noweare1 Yes I agree. That should be fairly straight forward to implement. I'll give it a try. Also, I found another model of H-Bridge that has a voltage output proportional to current output for over current detection I think. I'll look into that as well but I wouldn't hold my breath on how accurate it would be.
Thank you. Very well explained and illustrated. Just one question, can the TB6612 be used for a 4 wheel drive project?
Thank you very much for very precise and descriptive explanations about this module.
I have a problem to solve regarding the stepper motor driver controller module 36820. This module can only drive motors having less than 800mA. Can I use this TB6612FNG module along with the 36820 module to increase the current per phase of a stepper motor? If possible how to connect them each other?
THANKS!
As with the L298N, the TB6612 can drive a single motor with double the current rating by parallel wiring the inputs and outputs. For two motors at double current use two controllers.
You inspired me to design the circuit as smallest as possible to run a single or 2 motors via wifi. Till now, I found ESP 01, AT328P chip with L293D chip. Another Idea is thinking about using ESP 01 directly to control motors.. Can you please let me know if any other possibility of reducing is size further.
Great work.
Bill, like to see this project with the HC-R04 to control this.
Very informative video. Are there any module similar to the TB6612 which is in a smaller form factor but can withstand higher voltage and current?
once again a very well prepared and informative session, many thanks.
I have a question if anyone can help me with it, I need to manage 6 stepper motors on a small project, is there a driver that you can suggest which does not consume huge amounts of my battery
cheers
After charleston and jerk, here is Bill's gig ! Famous in all electronics night clubs !
that would be jig
Thank you , DroneBot Workshop is great, I need do a sketch to drive a larger motor 24V and would like to use a Hbridge using mosfets but i also must be able to do speed controle . Im using a garagedoor motor.
would like some help please
Thank you. I'm learning a lot with you. Did you have any support page?
Coming from the l298n, ehat would be the most minimal connection to a Xiao for just speeding up a small DC motor ? ( no brakes, no nothing, just speeding up or slowing down the analog way from 0 to 255 value ? ) ?
Could I simply connect the standby to VCC and all the other inputs NOT connected ? Thank you
In order to reach the smallest size of driver it is better to take a look at the DRV8839. It is powered from 1.8Volts.
size is not everything 😂, did not expect that from you🎉🎉❤
What software did you use when you showed how the Arduino connects to the motor driver and potentiometers? It looks vaguely like Fritzing, however it has animation that shows how everything connects together.
There are quite a number of motor drivers. 298 is still a good choice if you have a high voltage motor. Other than that there are better choices than the 298.
The tb6612 generally needs more control pins (3-4) than others such as the mx1508 or L9110 (2)
Nice 👌 video 👍😊
When a module only has pinout markings on the bottom and if it has no buttons or displays on the top, simply mount the pins upside down making the bottom of the module the top. Now you can use the module and read the pinout.
Interesting video :-)
I intend to convert one of my son's RC car to use Arduino and wireless that can be controlled with the smart phone.
also, consider nodemcu instead of arduino.
th-cam.com/video/zJnDbdefeCA/w-d-xo.html
Thanks
Great video, but miss the commutation frequency assessment important when driving loads like piezo devices
Cool module could power a tiny robot an oversize nano bot .👍
Are there any informations about responce time? It is important too.
If you're breadboarding, and don't have heatsinks or indicator lights sticking up, just solder the pins on the other side, and put the module in the breadboard chip-down.
Hey, what's your name?
It's TB6612FNG.
It's... It's what?
It's the only name they ever gave me.
Well I ain't using it. FN, huh? Finn, I'm gonna call you Finn, is that alright?
Finn, yeah Finn! I like that, I like that!
I'm Poe, Poe Dameron good to meet you Finn.
Good to meet you too!
or "TB6612" for short, let me say. 1:13
If your module has the silk screened connection labels on the bottom, simply solder the header pins to the top of the PCB and plug it into your breadboard 'upside down'!
Did you ever try the dvr8833? It is a little less efficient but it only uses 4 gpio pin instead of 6. I love how you explain everything as detailed as you do so I'm really hoping for a video on this driver! I'm working on a project that has 8 independent motors(small n20 with encoders) so 2 less gpio a driver would save alot
You do realize that you can control the TB6612FNG with only 4 pins? Just attach the pwmA and pwmB pins to 5V so they are always on, and instead is the in pins for PWM and ground. Same thing applies to the L298n.
@@beanapprentice1687 awesome!!! Thanks!
how are current capabilities similar when one is 1.2A while the other is 2A ?
or are you comparing 3.2A peak current to 3.0A ?
Could you please explain how to use the trigger on a PS4 controller in place of the potentiometer please.
Can we use this in drone with 8x20mm coreless motors? Will this be too heavy design wise? I am planning to use arduino nano with 2S battery.
Does this controller handle the current after the motor shuts off or do you need a diode to handle the transient current. I want to use this on a 12v rs555 mabuchi motor.also does the stall aperage need to be considered when choosing a controller?
does pin AI1 have to be connected to a pwm pin? Im trying to drive 4 motors but only have 5 pwm availible. Was hoping to use 2 of these boards. Many thanks.
Is there any way to analize the ODrive motor driver and probably show us an alternative way to DIY the same or similar with arduino modules e.g. ATtiny85 or Nano + H-Bridge MOSFET drive incl. closeloop encoder with CAN bus connection in a much cheaper way for DC motors e.g. 24 V / 50 Amps ? I would appresiate that much !!
Can you do a video about the mcp4725?
Thanks a lot for this really useful video! I have one question about the standby function: how can I make use of this? Is this simply a digital HIGH or LOW in order to let the module know that it has to be active or not? In other words, if STBY = digital.Write LOW, will the module be placed into standby mode?
You are correct. You can use a digital output pin to control the state of the chip. If the standby pin is being signalled HIGH by the Arduino, the motor driver turns on. If it is being signalled LOW, the motor driver will turn off.
Great
Спасибо. Полезное видео. У вас появился новый подписчик, из России. Творческих успехов в ваших трудах.
(перевод видео был с помощью "ЯНДЕКС неро-сеть")
At 2:41 States the output current of 1.2 Amps is that per motor?
For batterie powered toys or 3.3V 1.2A devices at all use the TB6612FNG but for long run devices like 3D printers or CNC use the L298N 5-24V 2A per motor ist a must.
There are other motor drivers in the world besides the TB6612FNG and the L298N, you know. I doubt that printers use either of these motor drivers. Instead, they use high-power MOSFET drivers. Same kind of transistor technology as the TB66, but more powerful.
Hey! How can I use a mini L298 N H brigde? It does not have a enA entry
I'd recommend the TC78H660FTG from Toshiba. You can get breakout boards for it for as little as $5 AUD.
3-16V @ 1.6A continuous/2A max.
What if you were using a linear actuator and needed reverse polarity?
L298n motor driver can give an output voltage of 5 volts... Is this same applicable for TB6612 module ?
Can it do 1 coil, 2 coils half stepping via the microcontroller?
I have been trying to figure out the right way to use 2 hoverboard motors controlled independently with remote control. Would i need two esc and can I use them together with arduino or should I use rasberry pi? Would 1 arduino and 1 esc allow independent usage through code?
Sir... Can i use tb6612fng for analog input?
Nice tutorial.
But from where is that noise coming when the bot is moving slowly? That beep sound?
These are PWM harmonics (the default Arduino frequencies are low... )
@@batvesko3645 Ok, thanks.
What does "No low current standby mode" mean?
Hi, a very good video. Thanks
Can you please recommend to me a driver controller for 4 motors; thanks in advance
Just use two TB66’s instead of 1.
What if you Sauter it upside down? That might fix the bread board problem
Im having a real hard time with the TB6612FNG standby pin. Where/what should I connect it to? I am using a Raspberry Pi Pico for my board. I have no trouble with the L298N, but this TB6612FNG is making me want to crawl the walls.
How not to brake with what function or with what pwm?
It's as if the module manufacturers just recently discovered something called MOSFET. Why did they mass-produce inefficient, bulky motor controllers based on BJTs for so long can only be chalked up to a sales tactics that has in mind that down the road they would release the mosfet-based version and expect a mass-replacement of motor controller modules..
Because manufacturing bipolars with large feature sizes is *CHEAP* and thus those IC's are cheap.
They're not idiots, they just want to sell you the cheapest thing so they can get more margin.
I think it's mainly that all the hobbyists know about the old, bipolar devices and all the tutorials use them. I've been using a similar H-bridge, the MX1508, and those modules are often mis-advertised as L298N modules. For most hobbyist applications they're probably a better option than an actual L298N.
Not quite sure why I need a pot to control motor speed. Shouldn't the environmental feedback from hardwired switches or Lidar input manage that?
Sean Lyon
4小时前
Great video! I am making a ball launching machine using a 12V 30W motor and a 16.8 Ah Lithium battery. I need to control the motor through Arduino to run 1 sec then stop for 5 sec and repeat this cycle. Would this motor controller work with this setup? If not, what do you recommend? Thanks
This motor driver will work.
It is possible to add a mosfet to the output of motor driver and then connect the motor to mosfet to increase the power (amps) and connect more powerful motors?
Sure, but in this case there is no point in using the motor driver at all. Just connect the gate of the mosfet directly to the Arduino.
is there an H bridge that could provide around 10Amps @ 12-14V? Or it would be better to construct it from mechanical relays?
Should be. Using mosfets as H-bridge switches they can handle 10 easily. Or you could build your own.
Well, I came here atlast hope to find my solution on using this TB6612 controller. I am using this controller on a toy car, from the start it behaves different like two motors don't running same speed at a time, one motors runs fast, and the other runs 3/4th of a speed of motor 1, even though I gave same speed as 200. What is the reason for this? I already asked this question on most platforms, but doesn't get a sourceful reply.
I have one question, im new to this world and my first proyect was the RC Car as you may know with the L298N driver. The cool thing about that driver is that i can plug to the 12v pin a LiPo battery (7.4v 300 mah) then with the output 5v pin i can feed my arduino. The question here is: can i do the same with the TB6612FNG??? i mean using a single battery feed the driver as well as the arduino???
the L298N module has an on-board 5v voltage regulator which is what allows you to power your arduino from it. The TB6612FNG module however does not have an on-board voltage regulator, so you need a separate one connected to the main battery to power your arduino.
Hi, I tried to work with the L298N board, but for some reason, after a while, it makes my 200v breaker trip :/
I have no idea what's wrong, I'm using a 12v power supply with 3A max. Any thoughts?
maybe I'm missing something in the code? , maybe it draws too many amps after a period of time?
Thanks!
there is no way the l298n could draw enough current to make a mains breaker trip. The motor driver would explode and stop drawing power long before that, if you could somehow load it enough and override its built-in thermal protection. The problem is most likely a fault within your 12v power supply which is connected to mains power.
If you also subscribe to AvE, it’s hard to get past the FNG suffix on the component.
What changes would there be if you were using a 4-pin stepper motor?
Just connect each pin to one output of the motor driver.