Nice work man! In the first projects we really do mistakes...I'm glad you showed it, because people usually think everything on YT is perfect, but they forget the power of video editing. Please, if you make another projects, share with us! Congrats for your playing skills too...
Keep it up. You're right on the edge of creating some stellar instruments. That, for all of its flaws, is a beautiful guitar... Might have you make me one some day!
Your neck was nicely done. Binding is an art in itself. Finish work is always the hardest. Get some sharper professional tooling and a spindle. Makes a world of difference.
I like how the 12th fret logo is straight and centered while the fanned frets provide an interesting slanted contrast. Nice work, can't wait to see more. If you're going all in on CNC builds, why not try a True Temperament fretted neck in the future? That would be plum magical. Background music was listenable throughout unlike some guitar build videos.
Great video! Id love to talk with you about building a multiscale 7 to 8. Ive build t shape bodies and necks and a neckthru firebird before but never something like this would be great to pick your brain!
Based on the grain, the body appears to be ash, not poplar. Despite the lines in the body and the clearcoat issues, it's still a beautiful build. 6th fret for parallel is an interesting choice. How did you arrive at that? What's your profit margin on a build? How many builds to pay for the Shapeoko Pro at almost $3000 ? OTOH, it does replace a lot of tools and jigs - assuming the jigs even exist - stuff like saws, routers, drills, etc. For guitar clear coats that don't require pro paint shop gear, I find rattle can lacquer to be a good combo of price, ease of application, drying times, and easy to fix errors. Brush on poly wiped on with clean paper is a close second. Its a bit more work to apply, and takes longer to cure, but costs less and is practically error proof. Raising the grain before staining can help. Popping the grain does the same thing. Gibson's trick of an extra coat after sanding and before polishing helps too.
I've tried different spots for the parallel fret. I ended up really liking the 6th fret, and less of a scale difference. Having it too high and the first frets are too angled for my tastes. I purchased the shapeoko as an investment and for fun hoping to make the money back when I eventually sell some guitars. I've used wipe-on poly with great results and got it to a mirror shine. Crystalac bright tone is awesome too. I'll probably stick with wipe on poly. Just didn't like the spray can finish. Not for me.
@@DavidCorona81I know what you mean about the less scale difference and the first fret being too angled. That makes sense because on builds with more scale difference, 9th fret parallel seems to be the sweet spot. But of course there's no general consensus yet, which is why I find it a topic of interest. Odds are there is some optimal relation between scale difference and parallel fret selection. It's just that builders and players have yet to settle on just what that is, since multiscale is newer and less popular than non-multiscale. Based on the cost of the parts vs what you could sell them for, I'm guessing about 10 builds or less to pay for the CNC machine, even if you don't charge much for the guitars. That's really quite reasonable from a business standpoint for a capital investment. The minimalist guitars I build require so little woodworking it's hard to justify a CNC machine. Generally speaking, spray finishes are a bit more temperamental to apply than wipe-on or brush-on finishes. They can be especially frustrating until one learns the proper methods of error recovery. Such methods do exist and are not complex. Knowing them makes working with spray finishes a "have no fears" proposition. The type of clearcoat matters as well. Lacquer melts into itself, while poly tends to layer. Sanding a high spot can cut through one layer of poly to the next, leaving a mark. With lacquer, you just have to worry about sanding all the way through to the paint or stain. And of course, a paint job is only as good as the surface prep work done beforehand. If you're going for that "dipped in glass" look, you'll probably want to raise grain multiple times before staining or dyeing, use lacquer (spray or brush-on) for the non-layering behavior, plenty of coats before you start sanding, lots of block wet sanding, and use the Gibson trick of a final coat after sanding and before buffing. These days I tend to favor more textured finishes. Open grain, a couple light coats of lacquer, and no sanding or polishing. Some examples: th-cam.com/video/WaMS_jOxjoA/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/fGve4MbuXFc/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/0hbZ6g27Xj0/w-d-xo.html
@@normbarrows Definitely agree. I do plan to try spray finishes again in the near future. I have an air compressor, I just need to purchase a good sprayer and watch some videos on it. I think I just don't want to do the rattle spray can again.
@@DavidCorona81 Guns will tend to get better results easier than cans. Extra cleanup time, initial gear costs, and the initial learning curve are the only downsides. I should probably make that big move to "spraybooth city" myself.
I'm having issues getting my 2 sided jobs to line up my top pass always ends up shifted by like 2mm do you have any tips on how to guarantee the accuracy when you flip the piece over?
I'm buying a CNC machine this fall to start producing my own brand of guitars. I've done nearly five years of prototyping all by hand, and I'm tired of it lol How would you rate your machine?
I use the CNC to drill alignment holes at both ends of the neck wood. These holes line up with holes I already had it drill in the waste board. Then I use metal dowels when I flip it over so the holes are exactly aligned. I also use two sided tape and remove the extra wood once the outline is completely cut out.
Hey I’m currently in a makerspace class that uses similar machines and I’ve got permission to make anything I want and I want to build this for my brother and I was hoping you could give me the file for this guitar and anything else I might need for it like the link to the electronics used, frets, or knobs please
Nice work. There's nothing like building what will eventually become a treasured family heirloom.
Nice work man!
In the first projects we really do mistakes...I'm glad you showed it, because people usually think everything on YT is perfect, but they forget the power of video editing.
Please, if you make another projects, share with us! Congrats for your playing skills too...
Thanks!
Keep it up. You're right on the edge of creating some stellar instruments. That, for all of its flaws, is a beautiful guitar... Might have you make me one some day!
I love how you mixed the demo into the background music❤
Sick build and sick playing brother!!
Thank you!
Waooo David you are a genious brother 👏👏👏🤘🤘🤘🔥🔥🔥🎸🎸🎸 great job man!
Pretty good result despite the fix needed on the wood. :)
Your neck was nicely done. Binding is an art in itself. Finish work is always the hardest. Get some sharper professional tooling and a spindle. Makes a world of difference.
so tempted to buy a cnc to build a few guitars
I like how the 12th fret logo is straight and centered while the fanned frets provide an interesting slanted contrast. Nice work, can't wait to see more. If you're going all in on CNC builds, why not try a True Temperament fretted neck in the future? That would be plum magical. Background music was listenable throughout unlike some guitar build videos.
Thats it. Im buying a cnc
Great video! Id love to talk with you about building a multiscale 7 to 8. Ive build t shape bodies and necks and a neckthru firebird before but never something like this would be great to pick your brain!
Thanks! What questions do you have? I'll try to check back and answer them.
It looks so great, really good job!!! If you can share STL that you used, it will be awesome. I want to print 3D model of a guitar for my collection.
Based on the grain, the body appears to be ash, not poplar. Despite the lines in the body and the clearcoat issues, it's still a beautiful build. 6th fret for parallel is an interesting choice. How did you arrive at that? What's your profit margin on a build? How many builds to pay for the Shapeoko Pro at almost $3000 ? OTOH, it does replace a lot of tools and jigs - assuming the jigs even exist - stuff like saws, routers, drills, etc. For guitar clear coats that don't require pro paint shop gear, I find rattle can lacquer to be a good combo of price, ease of application, drying times, and easy to fix errors. Brush on poly wiped on with clean paper is a close second. Its a bit more work to apply, and takes longer to cure, but costs less and is practically error proof. Raising the grain before staining can help. Popping the grain does the same thing. Gibson's trick of an extra coat after sanding and before polishing helps too.
I've tried different spots for the parallel fret. I ended up really liking the 6th fret, and less of a scale difference. Having it too high and the first frets are too angled for my tastes.
I purchased the shapeoko as an investment and for fun hoping to make the money back when I eventually sell some guitars.
I've used wipe-on poly with great results and got it to a mirror shine. Crystalac bright tone is awesome too. I'll probably stick with wipe on poly. Just didn't like the spray can finish. Not for me.
@@DavidCorona81I know what you mean about the less scale difference and the first fret being too angled. That makes sense because on builds with more scale difference, 9th fret parallel seems to be the sweet spot. But of course there's no general consensus yet, which is why I find it a topic of interest. Odds are there is some optimal relation between scale difference and parallel fret selection. It's just that builders and players have yet to settle on just what that is, since multiscale is newer and less popular than non-multiscale.
Based on the cost of the parts vs what you could sell them for, I'm guessing about 10 builds or less to pay for the CNC machine, even if you don't charge much for the guitars. That's really quite reasonable from a business standpoint for a capital investment. The minimalist guitars I build require so little woodworking it's hard to justify a CNC machine.
Generally speaking, spray finishes are a bit more temperamental to apply than wipe-on or brush-on finishes. They can be especially frustrating until one learns the proper methods of error recovery. Such methods do exist and are not complex. Knowing them makes working with spray finishes a "have no fears" proposition. The type of clearcoat matters as well. Lacquer melts into itself, while poly tends to layer. Sanding a high spot can cut through one layer of poly to the next, leaving a mark. With lacquer, you just have to worry about sanding all the way through to the paint or stain. And of course, a paint job is only as good as the surface prep work done beforehand. If you're going for that "dipped in glass" look, you'll probably want to raise grain multiple times before staining or dyeing, use lacquer (spray or brush-on) for the non-layering behavior, plenty of coats before you start sanding, lots of block wet sanding, and use the Gibson trick of a final coat after sanding and before buffing. These days I tend to favor more textured finishes. Open grain, a couple light coats of lacquer, and no sanding or polishing. Some examples:
th-cam.com/video/WaMS_jOxjoA/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/fGve4MbuXFc/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/0hbZ6g27Xj0/w-d-xo.html
@@normbarrows Definitely agree. I do plan to try spray finishes again in the near future. I have an air compressor, I just need to purchase a good sprayer and watch some videos on it. I think I just don't want to do the rattle spray can again.
@@DavidCorona81 Guns will tend to get better results easier than cans. Extra cleanup time, initial gear costs, and the initial learning curve are the only downsides. I should probably make that big move to "spraybooth city" myself.
I'm having issues getting my 2 sided jobs to line up my top pass always ends up shifted by like 2mm do you have any tips on how to guarantee the accuracy when you flip the piece over?
Nice work! And entertaining track :). - Mind my asking what cad software you used? Fusion 360, VCarve, or other?
Yea, using fusion 360
Thanks for the compliments!
Estimado que modelo marca es la cnc
I would like to see you do something Pointy ~ B.c.Richesk
I'm buying a CNC machine this fall to start producing my own brand of guitars. I've done nearly five years of prototyping all by hand, and I'm tired of it lol
How would you rate your machine?
Brilliant, how did you align the back of the neck when it is all carved out? Did you use dowels nect to the trussrod slot or how? Thanks
I use the CNC to drill alignment holes at both ends of the neck wood. These holes line up with holes I already had it drill in the waste board. Then I use metal dowels when I flip it over so the holes are exactly aligned. I also use two sided tape and remove the extra wood once the outline is completely cut out.
@@DavidCorona81 great Info. Thanks
Hey I’m currently in a makerspace class that uses similar machines and I’ve got permission to make anything I want and I want to build this for my brother and I was hoping you could give me the file for this guitar and anything else I might need for it like the link to the electronics used, frets, or knobs please
personally, I'd use this riff:
th-cam.com/video/0FE2PDH61h0/w-d-xo.html
Next time I'm gonna use a metal track for my guitar build video for sure.
18:05 damn, those bolts are cheap… look at the cross grooves
Hablas español?XD
Sorry, but watching a CNC machine make a guitar is like watching paint dry.
Thanks! I love watching paint dry.
So why click on the video where the title clearly states that’s exactly what it is lol