Trying get it apart for cleaning. Not the elements, it is gritty and I can't get it apart. What to use and the matching, to get it back up and running. Have the manual but not sure what goes where. Thanks for any input. Got this used. KQ4CD Paul ⚓️
At 3:32 you talk about aluminum oxide being conductive. It isn’t. It’s a very good dielectric and in fact insulators are commonly made from aluminum oxide (alumina). The problem with using aluminum as a conductor is that a film of oxide forms where connections are meant to be and break the connection.
E-yup that's why I use phosphoric acid scotch brite pads on the element connections.. and clean up the inside of the traps. I make mistakes all the time...especially in these videos where I am speaking extemporaneously while actually trying to work at the same time. thanks for correcting this error.
In Mosley #2 you will find the little chart that identifies each coil by the number of turns . This is in the TA-33 manual... in a diagram with an asterisk, a tad obscure untill you know to look for it. This lets you mark the color code if it is missing or hard to find ( look under the plastic end caps for a colored line applied with a marker.
sure. go to the hardware store in the electrical section. Buy : 1. Rubber Fill Tape 2. good quality electrical tape. 3 3M waterproof electrical coating. Now. if there is a coax connector wrap it and about 3 inches of the coax jacket with fill tape overlap 1/3, Follow that with electrical tape. Now paint it all with the waterproof coating. if no pl-259... paint the braid with the coating, wrap the center, braid and jacket in a Y with the same two tapes and paint that with he coating. you can also paint it over shrink wrap.. the whole idea is to keep water out. wrap accordingly and seal well.
start with NEW high quality coax with properly installed connectors. use a little conductive grease on the center pin and outer threads.. A LITTLE. connect up properly. Get 3M electrical fill tape ( soft rubber) wrap the connection with 50% overlap. Wrap that with 3M electrical tape . Then paint it with 3M weatherproof electrical coating ( a red-brown varnish like goop). This will stand up to any weather that you can throw at it.. short of 150 mph winds, I dont know about ICE. when you cut it open after 20 years.. the metal will be shiney and the coax will be dry inside. Use an ant analyzer ( good one) to charactorize the line, make notes, ditto the whole ant system.. and measure periodically. Any change is all the warning you get.
Trying get it apart for cleaning. Not the elements, it is gritty and I can't get it apart. What to use and the matching, to get it back up and running. Have the manual but not sure what goes where. Thanks for any input.
Got this used.
KQ4CD Paul ⚓️
At 3:32 you talk about aluminum oxide being conductive. It isn’t. It’s a very good dielectric and in fact insulators are commonly made from aluminum oxide (alumina). The problem with using aluminum as a conductor is that a film of oxide forms where connections are meant to be and break the connection.
E-yup that's why I use phosphoric acid scotch brite pads on the element connections.. and clean up the inside of the traps. I make mistakes all the time...especially in these videos where I am speaking extemporaneously while actually trying to work at the same time. thanks for correcting this error.
In Mosley #2 you will find the little chart that identifies each coil by the number of turns . This is in the TA-33 manual... in a diagram with an asterisk, a tad obscure untill you know to look for it. This lets you mark the color code if it is missing or hard to find ( look under the plastic end caps for a colored line applied with a marker.
use 450 ohm ladder line and a balun. good for 50 years if you do it right
Can you show how you run a feed line to the driver that will last 20 years
sure. go to the hardware store in the electrical section. Buy : 1. Rubber Fill Tape 2. good quality electrical tape. 3 3M waterproof electrical coating. Now. if there is a coax connector wrap it and about 3 inches of the coax jacket with fill tape overlap 1/3, Follow that with electrical tape. Now paint it all with the waterproof coating. if no pl-259... paint the braid with the coating, wrap the center, braid and jacket in a Y with the same two tapes and paint that with he coating. you can also paint it over shrink wrap.. the whole idea is to keep water out. wrap accordingly and seal well.
start with NEW high quality coax with properly installed connectors. use a little conductive grease on the center pin and outer threads.. A LITTLE. connect up properly. Get 3M electrical fill tape ( soft rubber) wrap the connection with 50% overlap. Wrap that with 3M electrical tape . Then paint it with 3M weatherproof electrical coating ( a red-brown varnish like goop). This will stand up to any weather that you can throw at it.. short of 150 mph winds, I dont know about ICE. when you cut it open after 20 years.. the metal will be shiney and the coax will be dry inside. Use an ant analyzer ( good one) to charactorize the line, make notes, ditto the whole ant system.. and measure periodically. Any change is all the warning you get.
It is hard to get the tubing apart