Just add a small bilge with a float switch. Thats what I did and I don't even have to worry about it. I just glued them down and I hang the hose over the back.
Just a thought…the scuppers will only drain if they are above the water level outside the boat. It could be that with the heavy motor and gas tank the stern is dropping down so much when running the motor that the scuppers are at or below the water level?
No disrespect intended but I don’t think the kayak is designed to have any outboard mounted to it. If it were it would have a transom. The 133X has a trolling motor mount front and back. With a 6 horse motor you are going fast enough to force water up through the scuppers, which should always be plugged until you need to empty built up water. I’m sure by the time this gets read you will have figured out the problem and resolved it to your satisfaction. Keep going and filming, thanks for doing what you do here!
Agree, I was watching and it looked pretty apparent that the yak was completely out of balance with way too much weight in the rear with approximately 100 lbs between the fuel and engine right on the stern. I believe most yaks are designed for even weight distribution, and when that is the case, the scupper system works just fine. Just moving the fuel tank to the front or tossing a cooler full of ice up there would probably help a lot with balancing the load, since that yak doesn't offer a movable seat, which would be the easiest and most effective way to adjust the weight... by sliding the seat forward a bit.
If your not taking in water from the rail. You don't need to leave the scupper open plug most of them..having the motor causes your yak to get more water from the bottom of the scupper holes because your motor causes up / down motion bringing water in from underneath the yak. So plug all of them unless you get alot of water inside then open one or two of them never leave all of them open unless your taking in alot of water..
Even if there were scuppers back there, the speed of the motor would cause water to rush in regardless. I installed ones that will not come loose and I also installed a bilge pump in the rear area just in case.
yea mine does the same with the rear cargo area. I have a 30lb trolling motor mounted in the rear and it just jams water up in the cargo area. my plan is to use two scuppers, one on the top and one on the bottom with a bolt through both. definitely going to do a 6hp on mine with a diy electric start.
don’t know if your still have problems with your scupper plugs or not but i’ve got the same kayak and i got 3/4 butterfly clips (for drywall) and put the screw through the plug where the string would normally go and then pop them in the scupper holes and tighten them down works best to check underneath to make sure the clip spread and is grabbing
Hey men, just put foam blocks inside. It comes like that from factory. I bot mine a week after they came out and I was one of the first one to setup the loaded version of them.
I have the 133x and have the same problem in the rear and mine is made the same way. I have a 3.5 hp on the back and trolling motor on the front. The scupper in the front will stay but the back ones will not. When over 8 mph some of the scupper under the seat and under my feet come out also.
Yea it’s the water pressure, I’m pressing the foam stress balls from underneath into the scuppers. Hopefully that works averted the water pressure just forces them upward against the scupper
Hey, first off. Love the Acend. Awsome vessel. I just recieved my Hoodoo tempest Hybrid 120. I wanted the HYBIRD, Because I run a PDL, And they have a fitted 46lb thrust trolling motor, that fits where my PDL goes. However I purchased a new Suzuki 2.5 hp outboard, with my pedal drive. I know I have a different vessel, but I have a feel free side mounted aluminum transom mount. Me at 5ft 7 weighing about 153, she moves close to 11mph, depending what I carry for the day. I was getting water in my front deck, and I have 8 scupper holes. I replaced the 4 up front with self bailing scupper plugs. You can keep them in, and the water drains right out instantly. My brother bought the JONNY BOAT BASD 100, with the 3 hp outboard on the rear transom. He had the same issue, and had them send him a new boat. If you have no warranty. I know kayak shops can trim that down, without alternating the vessel. Some of these shops are really good. Be safe, that boat is worth fixing. Awsome fishing platform. Better than any skiff. 🤟🎣🙏
@@anthonyvespia6662 thanks for that, yea I got something in the works. Trying to get my next video out soon, been transitioning between a new job so getting schedules worked out. 😁
Hey, are you still around? I installed valve scuppers and glued them in with marine adhesive. It worked great, I was doing about 10 mph and no water came in at all.
I had another kayak brand that did something like that...turned out it was a warped hull underneath from improper storage that caused the problem by pushing the scupper column's up into the upper deck. The damage you are showing in the video looks very similar to what happened in that kayak. I also agree with other comments that these kayaks are probably not strong enough for an outboard like that as its more strain than they are engineered to take...just my humble opinon. Good luck! Hope you solve the problems and get back to enjoying fishing out of it.
We no longer know anything about how your kayak is doing. Do you recommend that I do it the same as yours? Everything is going well because I like how you set it up. Please tell me something. Thank you.
Hopefully the foam balls work. Going from underneath is probably the move. Having the motor pushing you along puts alot of water force towards those scuppers. Interested to see what you come up with.
Not a problem get yourself a 1”-1 1/2” round hole saw, (I did this on a 3,000 hobie). Drill holes all way they take two one on each side, get the thin walled pvc tubing or a black plastic fuel line size of the hole. Stick it thru, cut it off 1/4” sticking out from flush, veg littkepropane tor h now take it to low heat it will take it about 10 mnts each side but best lip of tubing up, I used a steel ball bearing, 1 1/8” round smashed pushed bearing on top of heated tubing flaring Tubing outwards cannot flare it out too much get some 1/16 rivets drill pilot hole river flare into yak after you applied jB weld marine around tubing under flares used 6 rivets, it squeezed the jB weld out and sealed so good I then applied a water seal 2-part mix and brushed it around it’s actually epoxy resin clear for table tops, repeat same price was in bottom but put a lot more flare nearly 90 degree angle, seal river reseal apply resin. Been like that for Two years going strong
I think a 50lb outboard suspended from a kayak, plus your weight, will cause water to push thru the scupper holes and flood your cargo area. this is a lake kayak, I don't think 6hp is the way to go, maybe a smaller 2.3 or 3hp would be a better choice, also not Coast guard approved. Just be careful, it's not worth your life.
Hello, in the end, what happened with the kayak? Is everything going well? I plan to do the same as you. Do you think it's the best combination? Have you had any problems with the motor?
I pulled the rope out of the scupper plugs and filled the plug holes with hot glue. Haven’t had any water come in the kayak since and the plugs are still removable.
I have the same kayak and my back storage is the same way it some what came like that but as I put stuff back there it got worse. I am also stumped on what to do about it.
I have the same issues with the tank well have a low point. I’m in the process of putting as many pool noodles shoved in there that I can I. Hopes that’s it will push that area back up.
Some kayaks cant handle the outboard motor, I get a little in my kayak after bout 3 hours of trolling motor use on high, but its a very tiny amount of water maybe a half to full cup at most. My trolling motor is mounted on the back of my nucanoe flint.
Add pool noodles inside the hull and your Kayak won’t sink if you get water in the hull. It will just be swamped if you get too much water inside but at least it’ll stay floating.
Mine is exactly the same. It’s been 11 months. Have you come up with a good workaround? I was thinking that the best option would be to through hull drain plug at the back end. It should work with a venturi effect to constantly drain the rear cargo area.
One of the reasons why I want to setup an electric bulge pump. To pump water from the back and the option of pumping water out of the hull. My plugs seem to work ok. With two 24v batteries and a cooler back there
Yea mine kept popping out no matter how much I press them in. And you gotta be careful about forcing scupper plugs in. I’ve heard horror stories of the seams splitting inside the scupper plugs and leaking into the hull.
Just bought one 2 days ago and yes I noticed it in back is concaved in back not enough support from inside iam thinking put bunch pool noodles in there maybe push it up
You built was I was thinking of building when just tossing ideas in my head. I heard another person complaining of the rear scuppers being only two that the rear area was flexing a lot & cracked. It's a yak so I would expect to flip it one day & get the motor soaked. I think I would go different. If I'm going to do all that maybe a gheenoe instead.
Same issue with mine. Poor design(?), as the scupper holes provides support for the deck connecting the 'under deck' to the bottom hull to give the deck strength against flexing/bowing. Ascend should have designed in a scupper hole more towards the rear in the middle to prevent that sagging, especially considering that's a storage area carrying a lot of gear weight. I thought about cutting dowel rods and supporting the deck that way. I was just worried about them breaking thru the deck. I thought on my boat it happened from strapping it to the trailer to tight. Good to know I wasn't the cause of that 'deck drooping'.
Scuppers- remove rope, silicone and using small screws you can reattach rope to top of plug. Rear scuppers- might try a heat gun to soften and then place battery on it while warm to reshape. If you are traveling with your motor attached then you might have to much weight that may be creating a sort of stress point at the rear. Seems that it would cause a bulge up. Good luck
Bro.. go to Walmart.. go to the pharmacy Isle and find the walking cain feet. 1.88$ I have a 12T fully loaded for tournament fishing.. I'm also 250lbs When I make long trips which means added weight I have the same issue with a little bit of water in the back.. With the Cain feet I don't have ANY water coming in.
@@thejuanderdude7911 are u going to try to get this one work? Or you’ll get a different kayak? I’ve Seen Hobbie kayak do outboards! Most importantly Stay positive!! I’d freak out on water seen kayak full of water lol. Good thing you had that manual pump!!!
@@ZampostOk yea!! And as I was loading up I thought to myself if I should bring the pump or not. And luckily I did! You never know what problems you’ll run into. I already fixed the problem. But, my wife did surprise me with an early Father’s Day gift so that may change the dynamic of the kayak. Video soon to come! Yea I put allot of work into the ascend. And it’s a monster on the water. This setup though is mandatory to have a trailer. I just don’t have the space for it 😖
Damn my brother mine is just like that also with the back looking like it’s soft & sunken in! Have you figured it out yet? Was thinking of buying foam padding
@@thejuanderdude7911 have y’all considered using the spray expanding foam? If the plastic is that soft, the expanded foam might push it back up. Plus, while it won’t add capacity, it will be additional floatation to keep your investment from winding up on the bottom.
A lot of updates coming, I’ve gotten a new job since my last video that has shifted my hours to where I have less time with family. So trying to work that out.
@@thejuanderdude7911 my buddy and I have picked up 3 of these and will be rigging them up. Could you share links to the steering components and I am hoping to see details on the throttle changes. The rear plate is black King Starboard I am pressuring? And did you make that yourself
@@thejuanderdude7911 that's what I was planning to do as well. The steering mechanism is something I could use help with. Question are you in Florida. I am in the Naples Florida area myself
I have the same issue dude and have had it out on Lake Michigan for salmon. Luckily nothing scary like that. Did you find a fix bro? Also i like your build and channel bro. Following
Hey Jacob how has your 133 held up on lake Michigan. Im planning on fishing similar water in Washington and wondering how it handles the rough water. I wish someone would make a video on the roughest water they would fish in their 133 or other model Ascend kayak.
@@bajacuffs it has held up really good. Although most of my time has been in the harbors and not the big lake. I’ve taken it out on the big lake a few times and it’s a little scary when it gets choppy.
Kinda confused are the plugs not used to drain the kayak ?? If you didn't have the plugs sealed the water would drain if your kayak didn't weight 100 pounds right on the back... Of a kayak
So are you supposed not to keep regular cargo back there? And always totally empty? The drain plugs are raised above the larger area of the cargo space. So even at a standstill it wou leave 2-3” of water depth back there Besides I was way under 100lbs holding in the rear.
@@thejuanderdude7911 no it's used for storage lol It's built for a trolling motor not gas tanks and motors all in the back Also with you sitting not center So kayak with a person standing on the back and all the gear you have and no where to drain
@@beastofburdenc1519 so what’s the difference if I have 60lbs in cooler, ice, drinks, bait tank, tackle etc… vs the motor setup which is about the same. I mean I’ve seen people load this up with more then what I have. And I’m still about 100lbs under its recommended weight capacity.
@@thejuanderdude7911 the difference is with that stuff is you not going 15 kph like you are with a motor Also that's the kayak capacity yes but not all in the rear That's a total number And I might be wrong but I'm pretty sure the number included you weight also
Mine was made this month, and has the same concave as you. I'm wondering if the weight of the motor is leveraging you back and water is flowing in the scuppers?
Regardless, the height of the scuppers is higher then the rest of the cargo area. Water wouldn’t be able to escape even if leveled out. The outboard weighs 50ish lbs, if I had the same weight with a cooler filled with ice and filled with potential catch or other cargo it would still do the same. The water pools in the rear with nowhere to go and can’t even escape. A bilge is almost a necessity in the cargo area.
@@thejuanderdude7911 water should be able to escape at least until the level of the scuppers. And 50 pounds behind the seat is dramatically less leverage than a 50 pound motor hanging beyond the transom. I'm going to take mine out this week, so I'll do some experimenting.. for science
@@chirpinsquirrel8710 I also have weight up front to counter the rear load so it’s not that much maybe 10lb-15lb difference, yea let me know how it turns out. I still think the design should have been a little better.
@@thejuanderdude7911 I have the kayak and have the same concave issue. But with 45lb batteries and a cooler in the tank well, I’ve never had scupper failure and water racing in. Are you certain that your weight in the rear isn’t more than what you think. As the other comment read, at some point that water should have drained at a minimum Down to the height of the area where the scupper holes. It should have never reached a level higher then your deck plates. Your outboard downward force while under power more than like is the issue or weight. But I agree there is a design flaw for certain back there. Another solution for the plugs is to pull the string out n push a bolt thru with a large washer top n bottom and wrench tight
I can’t put the pic on here but that’s my next try.. the stress balls I used in my old yak and it worked for the most part .. they do let a little water in but not much
Is there a way to get in touch with you on the phone or private messaging? I have some ideas as I am actually adding 2 pumps inside in the back of mine..
Scuppers are supposed to allow water in and out, the only way you could sink is if they become plugged. Why anyone would have thought to plug the drain holes in a previously unsinkable boat I do not know. Fartin embarrassing.
The rear cargo thing isn’t normal mine was normal and flat then I stood in the back of it and it caved in it has no support under it like the mid hatch does I was gunna run some stiff foam from the mid hatch all the way to the back so it is less likely to cave in any worse
Yea I’m surprised they didn’t add anything to support it better. Other sections of the kayak has the closed cell stiff foam but not the entire rear section. Only small pieces
@@thejuanderdude7911 yeah they definitely should have added something in the back cargo space and also hear ascend uses weaker plastic compared to other brands but guess that’s why the price point is lower then most brands
I have a 133X and mine is completely flat in the back, not sure what could have caused this. Also if you want to completely plug the scupper hole you could try a patch of flex tape on the bottom of thee kayak
I got my 133X at the beginning of this year and the rear is not flat, I hold water. Where the holes are it is higher just like yours. On the scupper plugs I here E-bay sells some plastic -rubber that work well.
Good thing you saw the water buildup in time to pump it out! Those stress balls will probably do the trick, but water will still find a way in... it always does. Have you considered an electric bilge pump? Would that even work?
Wish you could post pictures here. How about the rubber Freeze Plug that you use on your engine block. They have a nut on top. The more you tighten, the more they expand.
![ILLSLICK X YOUNGOHM - We're The same [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yUJNkobYR0E/mqdefault.jpg)
I plugged and sealed my scuppers and run dual bilge pumps is pretty much unsinkable
Ocean kayak brand “scupper valves” let’s water drain, doesn’t allow water to enter from below. They are tight in the 123x but they fit and work.
Outboard = water in tha back. Nuff said.
Just add a small bilge with a float switch. Thats what I did and I don't even have to worry about it. I just glued them down and I hang the hose over the back.
Total weight half pound lol
Just a thought…the scuppers will only drain if they are above the water level outside the boat. It could be that with the heavy motor and gas tank the stern is dropping down so much when running the motor that the scuppers are at or below the water level?
No disrespect intended but I don’t think the kayak is designed to have any outboard mounted to it. If it were it would have a transom. The 133X has a trolling motor mount front and back. With a 6 horse motor you are going fast enough to force water up through the scuppers, which should always be plugged until you need to empty built up water.
I’m sure by the time this gets read you will have figured out the problem and resolved it to your satisfaction.
Keep going and filming, thanks for doing what you do here!
Agree, I was watching and it looked pretty apparent that the yak was completely out of balance with way too much weight in the rear with approximately 100 lbs between the fuel and engine right on the stern. I believe most yaks are designed for even weight distribution, and when that is the case, the scupper system works just fine. Just moving the fuel tank to the front or tossing a cooler full of ice up there would probably help a lot with balancing the load, since that yak doesn't offer a movable seat, which would be the easiest and most effective way to adjust the weight... by sliding the seat forward a bit.
They recommend no more than 3hp on the specs of the kayak. I have the same one
Go to walmart and buy the foam practice golf balls and put them in from underneath. They work perfect on my ascend 10t.
What do you mean by that?
If your not taking in water from the rail. You don't need to leave the scupper open plug most of them..having the motor causes your yak to get more water from the bottom of the scupper holes because your motor causes up / down motion bringing water in from underneath the yak. So plug all of them unless you get alot of water inside then open one or two of them never leave all of them open unless your taking in alot of water..
Yea I’m going to plug them up and just have a pump back there just in case
This channel is amazing. I love the tutorials and how in depth he goes. This is #GOALS!!!!
Even if there were scuppers back there, the speed of the motor would cause water to rush in regardless. I installed ones that will not come loose and I also installed a bilge pump in the rear area just in case.
yea mine does the same with the rear cargo area. I have a 30lb trolling motor mounted in the rear and it just jams water up in the cargo area. my plan is to use two scuppers, one on the top and one on the bottom with a bolt through both. definitely going to do a 6hp on mine with a diy electric start.
don’t know if your still have problems with your scupper plugs or not but i’ve got the same kayak and i got 3/4 butterfly clips (for drywall) and put the screw through the plug where the string would normally go and then pop them in the scupper holes and tighten them down works best to check underneath to make sure the clip spread and is grabbing
Hey men, just put foam blocks inside. It comes like that from factory. I bot mine a week after they came out and I was one of the first one to setup the loaded version of them.
I just checked my scuppers are mounded up like yours. It must’ve been one of the first ones they manufactured
please let me know the outcome I was just about to pull the trigger and buy one
But the two part marine grade foam. 2 lb I did it in my ascend 12t and it’s awesome you won’t regret it. Pour through the factory rod holders .
How's the yak doing? been hoping for an update on the build?!
I have the 133x and have the same problem in the rear and mine is made the same way. I have a 3.5 hp on the back and trolling motor on the front. The scupper in the front will stay but the back ones will not. When over 8 mph some of the scupper under the seat and under my feet come out also.
Yea it’s the water pressure, I’m pressing the foam stress balls from underneath into the scuppers. Hopefully that works averted the water pressure just forces them upward against the scupper
Hey, first off. Love the Acend. Awsome vessel. I just recieved my Hoodoo tempest Hybrid 120. I wanted the HYBIRD, Because I run a PDL, And they have a fitted 46lb thrust trolling motor, that fits where my PDL goes. However I purchased a new Suzuki 2.5 hp outboard, with my pedal drive. I know I have a different vessel, but I have a feel free side mounted aluminum transom mount. Me at 5ft 7 weighing about 153, she moves close to 11mph, depending what I carry for the day. I was getting water in my front deck, and I have 8 scupper holes. I replaced the 4 up front with self bailing scupper plugs. You can keep them in, and the water drains right out instantly. My brother bought the JONNY BOAT BASD 100, with the 3 hp outboard on the rear transom. He had the same issue, and had them send him a new boat. If you have no warranty. I know kayak shops can trim that down, without alternating the vessel. Some of these shops are really good. Be safe, that boat is worth fixing. Awsome fishing platform. Better than any skiff. 🤟🎣🙏
@@anthonyvespia6662 thanks for that, yea I got something in the works. Trying to get my next video out soon, been transitioning between a new job so getting schedules worked out. 😁
Well good luck bro. That boat is amazing. Love the outboard setup and bow transom trolling options. They are incredible! Be safe bro. 🎣🙏
Hey, are you still around? I installed valve scuppers and glued them in with marine adhesive. It worked great, I was doing about 10 mph and no water came in at all.
I had another kayak brand that did something like that...turned out it was a warped hull underneath from improper storage that caused the problem by pushing the scupper column's up into the upper deck. The damage you are showing in the video looks very similar to what happened in that kayak. I also agree with other comments that these kayaks are probably not strong enough for an outboard like that as its more strain than they are engineered to take...just my humble opinon. Good luck! Hope you solve the problems and get back to enjoying fishing out of it.
We no longer know anything about how your kayak is doing. Do you recommend that I do it the same as yours? Everything is going well because I like how you set it up. Please tell me something. Thank you.
Hopefully the foam balls work. Going from underneath is probably the move. Having the motor pushing you along puts alot of water force towards those scuppers. Interested to see what you come up with.
Not a problem get yourself a 1”-1 1/2” round hole saw, (I did this on a 3,000 hobie). Drill holes all way they take two one on each side, get the thin walled pvc tubing or a black plastic fuel line size of the hole. Stick it thru, cut it off 1/4” sticking out from flush, veg littkepropane tor h now take it to low heat it will take it about 10 mnts each side but best lip of tubing up, I used a steel ball bearing, 1 1/8” round smashed pushed bearing on top of heated tubing flaring Tubing outwards cannot flare it out too much get some 1/16 rivets drill pilot hole river flare into yak after you applied jB weld marine around tubing under flares used 6 rivets, it squeezed the jB weld out and sealed so good I then applied a water seal 2-part mix and brushed it around it’s actually epoxy resin clear for table tops, repeat same price was in bottom but put a lot more flare nearly 90 degree angle, seal river reseal apply resin. Been like that for Two years going strong
I think a 50lb outboard suspended from a kayak, plus your weight, will cause water to push thru the scupper holes and flood your cargo area. this is a lake kayak, I don't think 6hp is the way to go, maybe a smaller 2.3 or 3hp would be a better choice, also not Coast guard approved. Just be careful, it's not worth your life.
Hello, in the end, what happened with the kayak? Is everything going well? I plan to do the same as you. Do you think it's the best combination? Have you had any problems with the motor?
I pulled the rope out of the scupper plugs and filled the plug holes with hot glue. Haven’t had any water come in the kayak since and the plugs are still removable.
I have the same kayak and my back storage is the same way it some what came like that but as I put stuff back there it got worse. I am also stumped on what to do about it.
I have the same issues with the tank well have a low point. I’m in the process of putting as many pool noodles shoved in there that I can I. Hopes that’s it will push that area back up.
Quick question. Where did you get the baseplate for your motor mount ?
I just bought the 128x & the scuppers aren’t raised like yours. They drain fine. Good luck.
Yea for what I had planned for this kayak not sure I’d wanna risk I where I wanna take it. We’ll see what happens
Do you still have the yak? They make one way scupper plugs.
Just an idea..what about cork, like a wine bottle cork, or cork you can shap
Some kayaks cant handle the outboard motor, I get a little in my kayak after bout 3 hours of trolling motor use on high, but its a very tiny amount of water maybe a half to full cup at most. My trolling motor is mounted on the back of my nucanoe flint.
Add pool noodles inside the hull and your Kayak won’t sink if you get water in the hull. It will just be swamped if you get too much water inside but at least it’ll stay floating.
When are you going to post an update on your kayak?
Awesome idea thank god you came back safe 👍👍👍👍👍👍
I was thinking those rubber pluggs with the metal spin knob on top to seal
Have you been able to get a top speed yet?
Mine is exactly the same. It’s been 11 months. Have you come up with a good workaround? I was thinking that the best option would be to through hull drain plug at the back end. It should work with a venturi effect to constantly drain the rear cargo area.
Would love to see some new content I just bought a new ascend 133
Where you go bro how’s the kayak?
You can also drill and make your own scuppers with PVC and rubber insert gaskets and gorilla glue clear Apoxsee
Just subscribed btw
One of the reasons why I want to setup an electric bulge pump. To pump water from the back and the option of pumping water out of the hull. My plugs seem to work ok. With two 24v batteries and a cooler back there
Yea mine kept popping out no matter how much I press them in. And you gotta be careful about forcing scupper plugs in. I’ve heard horror stories of the seams splitting inside the scupper plugs and leaking into the hull.
Yeah seems there all like that bad design for sure I used plumbing plugs and just tighten them works good so far
It looks like maybe the stress from the motor on the rear buckled it? A little bit of fiberglass and you can fix that?
No a lot of other people have bought them brand new with it from day one
Mine is raised as well, Maybe not as much as yours. but i dont have a water issue in mine and have no plugs in the back
Yea I may just have to keep mine plugged due to the outboard and raised area of the scuppers
how did the foam balls work?
Just bought one 2 days ago and yes I noticed it in back is concaved in back not enough support from inside iam thinking put bunch pool noodles in there maybe push it up
You built was I was thinking of building when just tossing ideas in my head. I heard another person complaining of the rear scuppers being only two that the rear area was flexing a lot & cracked. It's a yak so I would expect to flip it one day & get the motor soaked. I think I would go different. If I'm going to do all that maybe a gheenoe instead.
Yes that was my next venture!!
Hey have you ever got it figured out and are you still using this setup i have the same kayak but I have a kayak buddy 2hp setup
Mine looks to be the same way. I should have bought a Hobie or some sort of higher end kayak. Thanks Ascend. Hope you find a solution man
I’m in “the same boat” 🤣. Yea, I’ll get a temp fix going till I can afford a top tier kayak. 😖
Same issue with mine. Poor design(?), as the scupper holes provides support for the deck connecting the 'under deck' to the bottom hull to give the deck strength against flexing/bowing. Ascend should have designed in a scupper hole more towards the rear in the middle to prevent that sagging, especially considering that's a storage area carrying a lot of gear weight. I thought about cutting dowel rods and supporting the deck that way. I was just worried about them breaking thru the deck.
I thought on my boat it happened from strapping it to the trailer to tight. Good to know I wasn't the cause of that 'deck drooping'.
This is a nice build.
Scuppers- remove rope, silicone and using small screws you can reattach rope to top of plug.
Rear scuppers- might try a heat gun to soften and then place battery on it while warm to reshape.
If you are traveling with your motor attached then you might have to much weight that may be creating a sort of stress point at the rear. Seems that it would cause a bulge up.
Good luck
You may also choose to add a bilge to just sit in that area. Keeping a constant check and turn on when needed
Yea I never leave everything attached while traveling, it all gets assembled and disassembled upon use.
Go get boat plugs that is what they are for. You flip it down and the swell and lock in place. They have many different types.
I would section off the back of the hull and fill it with closed cell urethane pour foam.
Yea i thought of that, but how much heavier will it be
Bro.. go to Walmart.. go to the pharmacy Isle and find the walking cain feet. 1.88$
I have a 12T fully loaded for tournament fishing.. I'm also 250lbs
When I make long trips which means added weight I have the same issue with a little bit of water in the back..
With the Cain feet I don't have ANY water coming in.
I would use one way scupper plugs.
Wow I feel bad. I’d be super mad about this. Did you look into Jonny bass 100 kayak before buying this one?
No, I wanted something in a decent size to carry a good amount of weight. That’s why I went this platform
@@thejuanderdude7911 are u going to try to get this one work? Or you’ll get a different kayak? I’ve Seen Hobbie kayak do outboards! Most importantly Stay positive!! I’d freak out on water seen kayak full of water lol. Good thing you had that manual pump!!!
@@ZampostOk yea!! And as I was loading up I thought to myself if I should bring the pump or not. And luckily I did! You never know what problems you’ll run into. I already fixed the problem. But, my wife did surprise me with an early Father’s Day gift so that may change the dynamic of the kayak. Video soon to come! Yea I put allot of work into the ascend. And it’s a monster on the water. This setup though is mandatory to have a trailer. I just don’t have the space for it 😖
diy scuffer hole for the rear with hdpe tubes.
Damn my brother mine is just like that also with the back looking like it’s soft & sunken in! Have you figured it out yet? Was thinking of buying foam padding
No it must be the molds from factory. I just stuffed the stress balls on the holes. They hold back the water. 😁
@@thejuanderdude7911 have y’all considered using the spray expanding foam? If the plastic is that soft, the expanded foam might push it back up. Plus, while it won’t add capacity, it will be additional floatation to keep your investment from winding up on the bottom.
Juan, have you given up on the 133x. Have not seen any updates since this video
A lot of updates coming, I’ve gotten a new job since my last video that has shifted my hours to where I have less time with family. So trying to work that out.
@@thejuanderdude7911 my buddy and I have picked up 3 of these and will be rigging them up. Could you share links to the steering components and I am hoping to see details on the throttle changes. The rear plate is black King Starboard I am pressuring? And did you make that yourself
@@rickydavid2731 yea everything I handmade,
Took a template of the rear deck. And cut from starboard
@@thejuanderdude7911 that's what I was planning to do as well. The steering mechanism is something I could use help with. Question are you in Florida. I am in the Naples Florida area myself
I have the same issue dude and have had it out on Lake Michigan for salmon. Luckily nothing scary like that. Did you find a fix bro? Also i like your build and channel bro. Following
Hey Jacob how has your 133 held up on lake Michigan. Im planning on fishing similar water in Washington and wondering how it handles the rough water. I wish someone would make a video on the roughest water they would fish in their 133 or other model Ascend kayak.
@@bajacuffs it has held up really good. Although most of my time has been in the harbors and not the big lake. I’ve taken it out on the big lake a few times and it’s a little scary when it gets choppy.
Kinda confused are the plugs not used to drain the kayak ??
If you didn't have the plugs sealed the water would drain if your kayak didn't weight 100 pounds right on the back... Of a kayak
So are you supposed not to keep regular cargo back there? And always totally empty?
The drain plugs are raised above the larger area of the cargo space. So even at a standstill it wou leave 2-3” of water depth back there
Besides I was way under 100lbs holding in the rear.
@@thejuanderdude7911 no it's used for storage lol
It's built for a trolling motor not gas tanks and motors all in the back
Also with you sitting not center
So kayak with a person standing on the back and all the gear you have and no where to drain
@@thejuanderdude7911 I kayak all the time with no plugs
I get wet but I don't sink
@@beastofburdenc1519 so what’s the difference if I have 60lbs in cooler, ice, drinks, bait tank, tackle etc… vs the motor setup which is about the same. I mean I’ve seen people load this up with more then what I have. And I’m still about 100lbs under its recommended weight capacity.
@@thejuanderdude7911 the difference is with that stuff is you not going 15 kph like you are with a motor
Also that's the kayak capacity yes but not all in the rear
That's a total number
And I might be wrong but I'm pretty sure the number included you weight also
Mine was made this month, and has the same concave as you. I'm wondering if the weight of the motor is leveraging you back and water is flowing in the scuppers?
Regardless, the height of the scuppers is higher then the rest of the cargo area. Water wouldn’t be able to escape even if leveled out.
The outboard weighs 50ish lbs, if I had the same weight with a cooler filled with ice and filled with potential catch or other cargo it would still do the same. The water pools in the rear with nowhere to go and can’t even escape. A bilge is almost a necessity in the cargo area.
@@thejuanderdude7911 water should be able to escape at least until the level of the scuppers. And 50 pounds behind the seat is dramatically less leverage than a 50 pound motor hanging beyond the transom. I'm going to take mine out this week, so I'll do some experimenting.. for science
@@chirpinsquirrel8710 I also have weight up front to counter the rear load so it’s not that much maybe 10lb-15lb difference, yea let me know how it turns out.
I still think the design should have been a little better.
@@thejuanderdude7911 alright. I'm a big boy and I'll load it up front and back. I'll update this thread when afterwards
@@thejuanderdude7911 I have the kayak and have the same concave issue. But with 45lb batteries and a cooler in the tank well, I’ve never had scupper failure and water racing in. Are you certain that your weight in the rear isn’t more than what you think. As the other comment read, at some point that water should have drained at a minimum Down to the height of the area where the scupper holes. It should have never reached a level higher then your deck plates. Your outboard downward force while under power more than like is the issue or weight. But I agree there is a design flaw for certain back there. Another solution for the plugs is to pull the string out n push a bolt thru with a large washer top n bottom and wrench tight
Mine is the same way .. it also holds water sometimes but I only have a 55 lb thrust on the back I’m still trying to figure this issue out as well
Ok so I’m not crazy thinking it’s just me 🤣
I can’t put the pic on here but that’s my next try.. the stress balls I used in my old yak and it worked for the most part .. they do let a little water in but not much
@@Makinwakeoutdoors yea I’m hoping they do. The ones I have there’s a plastic/rubberized lining around them so I hope it acts as a sealant .
Let me know if it works for ya
@@Makinwakeoutdoors will do. I’ll give it another go next weekend
How's it been going with deploying and retrieving the trolling motor since shortening the shaft?
It’s a little more of a pain, while on the water. But it’s manageable.
How about a bilge pump?
Yea got some ordered, I want to add one inside the kayak as well.
Why is every Accend video about warping, sinking, or some type of failure? You will never see one on the PNW salt, or even a rough lake.
Is there a way to get in touch with you on the phone or private messaging? I have some ideas as I am actually adding 2 pumps inside in the back of mine..
The_Juanderdude on IG can message me there
Scuppers are supposed to allow water in and out, the only way you could sink is if they become plugged. Why anyone would have thought to plug the drain holes in a previously unsinkable boat I do not know. Fartin embarrassing.
I would just plug them up 😅😅😅
Automatic bilge pump
The rear cargo thing isn’t normal mine was normal and flat then I stood in the back of it and it caved in it has no support under it like the mid hatch does I was gunna run some stiff foam from the mid hatch all the way to the back so it is less likely to cave in any worse
Yea I’m surprised they didn’t add anything to support it better. Other sections of the kayak has the closed cell stiff foam but not the entire rear section. Only small pieces
@@thejuanderdude7911 yeah they definitely should have added something in the back cargo space and also hear ascend uses weaker plastic compared to other brands but guess that’s why the price point is lower then most brands
@@tylerg3525 yea I heard the same thing. It’s true what they say. You get what you pay for..
If running a belge pump in the hull where would you run your discharge hose out of? That useless drain plug in the back?
@@aaronoldham176 yea you could probably run a pass through where the hull drain is located. Just make sure to seal it well
Use scupper plugs.
What a nice turn out on the weather!
Caulk the holes up.
Hey what's statue on this
Trying to get some updates on it. New job has been pressuring me. 😔
super glue the rope on the bottom of the plug.
I have a 133X and mine is completely flat in the back, not sure what could have caused this. Also if you want to completely plug the scupper hole you could try a patch of flex tape on the bottom of thee kayak
Not a bad idea!
I got my 133X at the beginning of this year and the rear is not flat, I hold water. Where the holes are it is higher just like yours. On the scupper plugs I here E-bay sells some plastic -rubber that work well.
Dude you can go to Walmart and get Twistable Tightening scupper plugs
It twists and flips down and tightens like a bike seat height lock
Good thing you saw the water buildup in time to pump it out! Those stress balls will probably do the trick, but water will still find a way in... it always does. Have you considered an electric bilge pump? Would that even work?
Oh yea water will. Yea After plugging it up I will add a bilge in the case water does pool too much back there. But man what a stressful event!
Ascend Kayaks suck period… The only thing worst is a Pelican and they’re pretty close..😂
Add a bildge pump and be done with it
I’d take it back off. lol. You did it but it’s not practical
This channel is great! But maybe you are putting too much weight on the back of the kayak! This boat is rated for 3 hp not 6!
Flex seal tape!
Way too much weight in the back of the boat
Over loaded much? Really?
Place bilge pump
14 dollar bilge pump
Too much motor and weight
Wish you could post pictures here. How about the rubber Freeze Plug that you use on your engine block. They have a nut on top. The more you tighten, the more they expand.
Problem is that if you over tighten, you could potentially break the walls of the scupper or put too much stress