Had to crank up my volume almost all the way just to hear you speak, the noise from the box moving was at a good level, I guess be closer to your microphone, or just sound off
I'd sooner encourage you to buy a 3d printer and have a go yourself, but Jay Bart Creations has been selling one of my newer versions on Etsy with a beautiful finish: www.etsy.com/au/listing/1039284489/working-lemarchands-lament-configuration
Che ditta è "The box" ne ho vari ,a quello mi manca sono 30 anni se seguo Hellraiser Saga/ Clive Barker , ne ho costruito due , uno normale e uno con il carillon .
So which parts do i print? i done the core and got it working perfectly. I notice only one side can be move with the dial. I have printed (Lament_Configuration_3x3x3_Negative_A) does that mean the B version has the turn dial? just want to make sure before i go a head on print more.
Correct, one core, A+B and I'd recommend the Negative version as you have. Both A and B halves should each have a turning dial and the centre gear (all one piece) of the core should turn from both sides, too. ie. from either dial on A or B.
@@nidhogg3390 it is pretty sensitive to getting squished into the bed, the elephant's foot effect. There is a seam in the model, right on the edge of the flat spot on the dial, just before the pattern begins.
Kinda curious to see how it would go, but any hint of money being made would likely summon a few demons seeking royalties. Better luck spilling a few drops of blood on the floor.
In the earlier movies, a block of wood, stained (mahogany, ivory, alizarin crimson, prussian blue?) with brass etchings glued on and lacquered. Plus a few versions with movements operated by rods. Later movies like Judgement it looks quite different, maybe moulded. In the story, it contained some rather... exotic materials.
As it stands, I don't think so. Haven't tried myself but the 0.2mm vertical gaps would cause the print to fail without supports and brittleness is a big problem for gears. Also UV curing the hidden surfaces might be challenging. The newer version uses a completely different mechanism, though.
@@TroyMackay well... the core mechanism did not work. That part of the print won't work. The 2 cube pieces worked out just fine... minus having to clean nearly a billion supports off the underside x_x. But yeah... watch out for gears and bearings when using a resin printer... probably not going to work out so well. Sadly.
@@sniperteam08 Did you check out the resin version? I still haven't printed it myself but someone gave it a try. Main trouble seems to be resin parts not sliding freely against each other.
@@TroyMackay I'm using water washing resin. I'm going to try different orientations for the core piece. I'm not hopeful though. Resin is amazing for some things... but not for everything.
What technique do you use to only paint the extruded parts of the cube, without the paint getting on to the lower bits? Tried doing this with some lighter cases a while back to no avail.
My preference is to paint it all and sand back the high spots, hence I included both embossed and debossed versions. It helps that it's flat so I can lay the sandpaper on a flat surface.
This is nice. But honestly, all the toy or replica versions of the puzzle box are usually disappointing. Like lightsaber replicas, even the really good ones could use more work. ✌❤
Thanks. I don't really have the patience or skills to paint and finish it properly, though it would be cool to see someone take it on. It's the puzzle element I want to see through, which is also still a work in progress - can't call it a puzzle box if it's an inanimate solid cube, now can we? Probably a few iterations to come yet. It would be pretty cool to make it CNC'able (at least with my joinery skills) with real wood and brass etchings.
I don't make them for sale, but the design is freely available. You could try Jay Bart Creations on Etsy, he makes the most recent version and does quite a nice job.
Thank God (if you care what he thinks). Thought I would have to start making them myself: www.etsy.com/listing/1039284489/working-lament-configuration-lock-puzzle
I've printed this out and cannot get that core to work properly. I put the bigger teeth into the slots of the box, leaving the little ones visible, but the box won't open all the way to turn and drop back down. How many layers of the core do you separate with a putty knife ? Also, the spring size? And do those smaller pegs that hold the spring in place, do you glue them to the box pegs or inside the core?
Sorry, I've been meaning to do a followup video paying special attention to the core but haven't got back to it. Firstly, the teeth need to be aligned (back to the initial position) by turning the dials (or not turning at all) - that's the locking mechanism. There are some "false" solutions where not all the narrow teeth align allowing for a partial open or sometimes the teeth aren't quite aligned or have a bit of play - maybe try jiggling it a bit or take the sharp corners off the teeth. Secondly, the core needs to be oriented correctly when inserted - the bigger teeth will remain in the tracks while the smaller ones can escape through the gaps at the end. You should be able to move the core freely in and out of each half from the fully inserted position to sticking half-way out the top. There should be 5 layers to the core all up, a set of two gears on the top and bottom plus a double thickness one in the middle. The gap should be visible in the model - and preserved in the slicer preview. If not all layers are separated the gears won't turn freely anyway and if you skip teeth, good luck. The spring holder pegs were an afterthought to add a tapered spring (5-6mm x ~30mm) diameter from a mechanical pencil I had on hand. There's a newer version without them with an integrated 5mm spring holder. I didn't need to glue mine, friction was sufficient to prevent them falling out (this will depend a lot on tolerances) and they go inside the core.
Not that I have seen. Also the one-layer gap trick used in the gearbox might not work in resin. You'll probably need a little support material to anchor it, or tilt it on an angle. I haven't used resin myself, so I'm not familiar with the limitations.
Thank God (if you care what he thinks). Thought I would have to start making them myself: www.etsy.com/listing/1039284489/working-lament-configuration-lock-puzzle
Sounds like you just need a reason to get one! There's also a ton of printing services where you can just send them the model and they print it for you (I haven't used any myself). Use the files however you like. The core is a bit particular when it comes to layer height and tolerances but assuming they know their business it should be fine.
Correct, with a bit more practice you can ease it in more gently. Applying a moment load around in a circular motion (kind of like the precession of a spinning top) helps to splay the fingers apart.
So...Troy...are you still with us, or did Pin Head tear your soul apart?
Didn't you know that troy IS pin head !.. He made the box.. They came..
Such sights to show you!
The Box "you broke it, we left"
Damn ! It looks very cool you need really to selling this !!!
I know it's only fiction, but would you like to have a puzzle box of your very own. Side from that I like the sound of it changing
Had to crank up my volume almost all the way just to hear you speak, the noise from the box moving was at a good level, I guess be closer to your microphone, or just sound off
The box you opened it and I CAME
The box, you opened it we came
He closed it though. So they left.
Out-fuckin'-standing!
Really like your idea, printing it now!
Thanks and good luck!
oh no, you open the box.
Where can I buy 1-2 of these ?
Or can we from you ?
Thank you this is a beautiful work of art !!
I'd sooner encourage you to buy a 3d printer and have a go yourself, but Jay Bart Creations has been selling one of my newer versions on Etsy with a beautiful finish: www.etsy.com/au/listing/1039284489/working-lemarchands-lament-configuration
thanks mate printing this up now lol only 75 hrs to go x)
Che ditta è "The box" ne ho
vari ,a quello mi manca sono
30 anni se seguo Hellraiser Saga/ Clive Barker , ne ho
costruito due , uno normale
e uno con il carillon .
Amazing 👍👍🏻
So which parts do i print? i done the core and got it working perfectly. I notice only one side can be move with the dial. I have printed (Lament_Configuration_3x3x3_Negative_A) does that mean the B version has the turn dial? just want to make sure before i go a head on print more.
Correct, one core, A+B and I'd recommend the Negative version as you have. Both A and B halves should each have a turning dial and the centre gear (all one piece) of the core should turn from both sides, too. ie. from either dial on A or B.
@@TroyMackay Strange, the one i printed doesnt have that gap in order to turn the dial
@@nidhogg3390 it is pretty sensitive to getting squished into the bed, the elephant's foot effect. There is a seam in the model, right on the edge of the flat spot on the dial, just before the pattern begins.
I kinda wanna see a video on painting it!
There wasn't much to it, really. I just slathered on the layers until it was nice and thick then sanded it back using sandpaper on a flat surface.
I would totally buy for a responsible price
Kinda curious to see how it would go, but any hint of money being made would likely summon a few demons seeking royalties. Better luck spilling a few drops of blood on the floor.
Beautiful work!
What material is the Film version made of, in the story and real life, in case its different in both
In the earlier movies, a block of wood, stained (mahogany, ivory, alizarin crimson, prussian blue?) with brass etchings glued on and lacquered. Plus a few versions with movements operated by rods. Later movies like Judgement it looks quite different, maybe moulded. In the story, it contained some rather... exotic materials.
@@TroyMackay yes I've seen the interview where the artist shows how they rotated with the rod. Beautiful to watch
@@DethronerX where can I find this interview please? Thanks.
@@TroyMackay the fine filigreed etching detail on each of the faces is absolutely exquisite.
Beautiful construction and technical artistry in these boxes. Thanks for this upload.
"The box you opened it"
Is the gear mechanism possible to print with a resin printer? Or will it just "glue" itself together?
As it stands, I don't think so. Haven't tried myself but the 0.2mm vertical gaps would cause the print to fail without supports and brittleness is a big problem for gears. Also UV curing the hidden surfaces might be challenging. The newer version uses a completely different mechanism, though.
@@TroyMackay well... the core mechanism did not work. That part of the print won't work. The 2 cube pieces worked out just fine... minus having to clean nearly a billion supports off the underside x_x. But yeah... watch out for gears and bearings when using a resin printer... probably not going to work out so well. Sadly.
@@sniperteam08 Did you check out the resin version? I still haven't printed it myself but someone gave it a try. Main trouble seems to be resin parts not sliding freely against each other.
@@TroyMackay I'm using water washing resin. I'm going to try different orientations for the core piece. I'm not hopeful though. Resin is amazing for some things... but not for everything.
@@sniperteam08 Like this one, without the gears: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4977426
What technique do you use to only paint the extruded parts of the cube, without the paint getting on to the lower bits? Tried doing this with some lighter cases a while back to no avail.
My preference is to paint it all and sand back the high spots, hence I included both embossed and debossed versions. It helps that it's flat so I can lay the sandpaper on a flat surface.
@@TroyMackay that's a great idea, thanks!
This is nice. But honestly, all the toy or replica versions of the puzzle box are usually disappointing. Like lightsaber replicas, even the really good ones could use more work.
✌❤
Thanks. I don't really have the patience or skills to paint and finish it properly, though it would be cool to see someone take it on. It's the puzzle element I want to see through, which is also still a work in progress - can't call it a puzzle box if it's an inanimate solid cube, now can we? Probably a few iterations to come yet. It would be pretty cool to make it CNC'able (at least with my joinery skills) with real wood and brass etchings.
Hello there my friend, can you pls lmk where you got that or where there is one available to purchase or even if someone makes them? Thank u!
I don't make them for sale, but the design is freely available. You could try Jay Bart Creations on Etsy, he makes the most recent version and does quite a nice job.
Imagine him opening the portal now . Oops
You mean close it, right?
@@TroyMackay or both 😏
Give me a price and I'm a happy customer mate!
Jay Bart Creations has been doing some nice work on Etsy: www.etsy.com/au/listing/1039284489
Nice! Pinhead fan I guess? :)
Ah, fond memories of high-school sleepovers. Of the first movie at least.
Does he sell them? I only saw directions to make it but I don’t have a 3D printer
Thank God (if you care what he thinks). Thought I would have to start making them myself: www.etsy.com/listing/1039284489/working-lament-configuration-lock-puzzle
I've printed this out and cannot get that core to work properly. I put the bigger teeth into the slots of the box, leaving the little ones visible, but the box won't open all the way to turn and drop back down. How many layers of the core do you separate with a putty knife ? Also, the spring size? And do those smaller pegs that hold the spring in place, do you glue them to the box pegs or inside the core?
Sorry, I've been meaning to do a followup video paying special attention to the core but haven't got back to it. Firstly, the teeth need to be aligned (back to the initial position) by turning the dials (or not turning at all) - that's the locking mechanism. There are some "false" solutions where not all the narrow teeth align allowing for a partial open or sometimes the teeth aren't quite aligned or have a bit of play - maybe try jiggling it a bit or take the sharp corners off the teeth. Secondly, the core needs to be oriented correctly when inserted - the bigger teeth will remain in the tracks while the smaller ones can escape through the gaps at the end. You should be able to move the core freely in and out of each half from the fully inserted position to sticking half-way out the top.
There should be 5 layers to the core all up, a set of two gears on the top and bottom plus a double thickness one in the middle. The gap should be visible in the model - and preserved in the slicer preview. If not all layers are separated the gears won't turn freely anyway and if you skip teeth, good luck.
The spring holder pegs were an afterthought to add a tapered spring (5-6mm x ~30mm) diameter from a mechanical pencil I had on hand. There's a newer version without them with an integrated 5mm spring holder. I didn't need to glue mine, friction was sufficient to prevent them falling out (this will depend a lot on tolerances) and they go inside the core.
Core video is up: th-cam.com/video/P0laJpy8O0s/w-d-xo.html
Cenobite in front of you look if you opened
Will you partake?
Where do i use the spring
In the centre, threaded through the hole in the cylindrical core. Makes it jump open a little when things align.
Пинхед в восторге)
Im thinking on doing this on a resin printer.. anyone done that yet?
Not that I have seen. Also the one-layer gap trick used in the gearbox might not work in resin. You'll probably need a little support material to anchor it, or tilt it on an angle. I haven't used resin myself, so I'm not familiar with the limitations.
Did you make this
Yes, links in description. There's been a few iterations since this one.
Would you please make one for me to buy of you?
Thank God (if you care what he thinks). Thought I would have to start making them myself: www.etsy.com/listing/1039284489/working-lament-configuration-lock-puzzle
Can i just buy one from you? i dont have a 3D printer :(
Sounds like you just need a reason to get one! There's also a ton of printing services where you can just send them the model and they print it for you (I haven't used any myself). Use the files however you like. The core is a bit particular when it comes to layer height and tolerances but assuming they know their business it should be fine.
@@TroyMackay isnt being a hellraiser fan reaosn enough? lol ill def look into it, thanks for the info
Can i get one?
I'm not really geared up for production, sorry. Still trying to get my latest prototype painted and finished!
@@TroyMackay hope you make it then. Good luck. It is a nice puzzlebox
👏👏👏👏👏
Shouldn't have to use that much pressure.b
Correct, with a bit more practice you can ease it in more gently. Applying a moment load around in a circular motion (kind of like the precession of a spinning top) helps to splay the fingers apart.
that's the Lament Configuration from Hellraiser.
👍
Hope he ain't came