Definitely agreed here, although DIY I don't believe recommends their rinseless for clay but I believe it can be used. Best I've found for lubrication is absolute. Smells good and its just slick
I really appreciated this video because I didn’t really want to buy a dedicated clay lube or stripping shampoo because I already had a rinse less wash and APC. This was very helpful and made me feel better about my choice.
Another one to add to list is... WINDOW CLEANER!!! Use a rinseless wash to create a 32oz "window cleaner" for like $0.07. Just about any rinseless wash brand will clean windows like a CHAMP. ONR is a winner for sure and I tend to lean on the Wash and Wax version, I like green and scent from that one. Truly appreciate you giving out these pointers that majority of people will just spend more because they "think" it is what they "should" do :) Side note: I have used Super Clean to clean wheels (4:1). I then applied Iron remover and noticed there was zero reaction. I imagine acid would do the same as well. Iron remover not needed and your GEM tip is... "if applied to paint, just spray the wheels while you are at it".
@@KietAu Same as rinse less wash (256:1). I have a gallon container and put half an oz. Use it for window cleaning and when it's time for rinse less, just pour it into bucket. ONR is great... along with the wash and wax version or Mckees37 version. Currently for windows I prefer the Mckees version over ONR.
I think the only time an actual strip wash makes sense is when they are acidic. Sometimes coatings need a kick in the ass to come back to normal, and things like descale work well. That being said you are correct that they are not great at stripping much but natural wax off a vehicle.
Adams Wheel and Tire cleaner is also much more aggressive than Adams Iron Remover. Iron remover is almost always PH balanced. Wheel cleaner I believe is near 13ph. It also contains methanol, which if you put a similar item on plastic like gasoline, you will get similar results. Just be aware of what you are applying.
As one of the Chemists at Adam's Polishes, I will explain that there are, in fact, differences between Iron Remover and Wheel Cleaner despite both being active with thioglycolate. The Wheel Cleaner contains a thickener to make it cling, which will prevent it from wetting out over the paint well. It also contains other ingredients specific to cleaning wheels. Iron Remover doesn't have the thickener, has a different amount of the thioglycolate active, and contains more co-solvency so it doesn't stain plastics. Iron Remover can be used as a weaker variant of the Wheel Cleaner, but Wheel Cleaner should definitely not be used for paint decontamination.
I have both the IK sprayers and foamers. The sprayers work great but the foamers are a bit weak. I've used lots of brands of pump sprayers and these have held up well. The cheap ones leak
We personally don't do that for the odor. Yes you can combine two steps in one but I don't like being around that chemical like that. And in Texas, you couldn't pull that off outside 😅
Just keep in mind, not all Iron Removers are lubricious enough to use as a clay lube and will leave marring. DIY Detail purposely made their so it was lubricious enough to safely clay with.
@@propercareusa I live in KY so not insane Texas heat but still pretty dang hot and I had to work the Yvan panel by panel, pretty slow process. Not a problem if you are working on your own car and you enjoy detailing your car like many of us but when working on a customer car, not a good idea.
@@justinwinston9929 buy what works for you, I feel like most detailers starting out, only look for what’s popular or what they see other detailers using. I’ve gotten sprayers off Amazon that last longer than IK sprayers
As far as strip wash, I think since the protection is not a one step striping, you should use a strong - strip shampoo as well as the other processes. For iron removers, in my country there are dead cheap wheel iron removers, but not cheap paint iron removers, so it is better to go with two products.
Yes, the ONR (which is amazing) has magnificent dilution ratio, you only need one bottle cap of product for a 32 oz spray bottle. I use it for claying and for a quick 15 minutes exterior wash. Recommend it.
Clay lube - diluted baby Johnson Iron decon & wheels - Adams iron removal Or O’Reilly superior wheel acid Strip wash - Dish washing liquid/APC / panel prep after correction
@@emilioavila844 ive had every ik foamer they all leak, break or just stop working all together the only one that has been good is the first gen sprayer
I found breaking them down and cleaning them every couple weeks improves the longevity. I use mine frequently (about 15 cars a week). Don't store chemicals in them long term and be sure to release the pressure after every use.
@@justinrounds517 mine would leak I couldn’t even do one wheel so i just threw them away i had the sprayer 1st gen the 2nd gen foamer doesnt hold pressure garbage 1st gen gal broke within a week bought the 2nd gen one doesnt hold pressure at all garbage i think ive given then too many chances to go out and spend 40-50 bucks on another one honestly id rather do ol’ reliable spray trigger i see a lot of cars weekly also dont have the time to be wasting it on fixing the little issues
I think this is all about finding what works for you and keeping an open mind so you can try new products when they come out. Trust me, thousands of products available and you can find 12 that work for most of what you do. If you think I'm wrong you haven't been doing this long enough. Don't get me wrong, specialty products are available, cool and fun, and I use them, but most of the time you don't need them for an every day detail. Cheers!
you can get away with that dilution without any damage on the wheel but its overkill imo, unless the wheel its extremely caked yeah, but try lower dilution ratio first
Definitely over rated, but detailers LOVE to use their expensive equipment that they got brain washed into thinking they needed, as an excuse to charge $100 bucks an hours for their basic detail 😂😂😂
Been in texas all my life, never heard latinos struggling with saying iron like this. Try thinking of it a different way. Say the word "Are" as in "are you listening?" add an "N" to it Are'n Its said exactly like aren't - but without the T. Hope this helps, and dont get defensive, because you not knowing how to say the name of the decontaminate you are charging for - is not professional at all.
Imagine if someone just started saying "Ceramic" Ker-a-mick instead of sir-a-mick They would look like a fool and ignorant, right? Iron is no different.
I buy all my Iron decon in a 5 gallon drums , in fact all of my chems come in 5 gallon drums except my soap which comes in a 55 gallon drum, This really keeps my overhead down . Another thing i do thats may seam weird but really works is when i get a job my shop picker will put together a tote with all i need for that job so all the cloths are vac packed , brushes , chems , etc . This plays on the clients mind as when my employee shows up the client sees everything is sealed so he thinks brand new and these gujys / girls are very organized. Plus each Ambulance has a gloss meter , tablet etc , so we always use the ipad and do a walk around noting dam etc , we do a paint thickness, gloss readings , have the client sign it and we go to work , at the end we take a 2nd pic a gloss meter reading and print it out useing a the small photo printer showing before and after on the pic . But by doing this it keeps cost down as , as my staff are not using to much chemicals , cloths etc , the pics protect from the client saying we damaged the vehicle, plus it actually makes it faster for my staff plus it makes us look way more professional so are clients are very happy to pay our prices, also by printing a before and after pic it acts as a businesscard and advertisement when they show their buds. I do have one big thing to ask right now i have 5 ambulances in my fleet but the cost of fuel is getting out of hand , was thinking about buy the new ford E - Transit vans , but have zero other ideas any suggestions ?
@bluegrasskid4835 I buy Bilthamber Korrosol 25 liter units , but my math was wrong as that in us gallons is 6.6 gallons , I do apologize for that here in canada we use the metric system , I use to buy Adam's in the 5 gallons size but , now 90% of my shop chemicals are Bilthamber
Super Clean is my "last resort" when it comes to cleaning interiors. That is some really strong stuff. Now, if you have a Soccer Mom Van slammed with stains on the carpet and leather, that soiling may laugh at some dedicated interior cleaners and you have to bring out the fangs and hit it with a strong APC/Degreaser like Super Clean but I would much rather start off less aggressive such as the mentioned dedicated interior cleaner and work my way up if needed.
The worse person even though I like his videos and he does think outside the box is Scott Bley the guys in Dallas. He will have you purchasing everything, then a year or two later he is telling you something else. Thank you for being real on here, love your posts.
I've gotten a few polishes and what not that he gave the gold star. Hasn't let me down yet. Don't watch Ammo. His products will have you maxing out the cards.
If you want a dedicated "strip wash", without going to mechanical cleaning steps, ie. polishing, sanding, etc. You can try Citrol spray as the strip wash, or even a strong APC diluted 10:1...that stuff will break down 99% of any paint protection you had on previously, even most freshly applied paint protection. As for prep sprays...I really recommend you try Rustoleum Wax & Tar Remover. It's a professional solvent based paint prep, that flashes off really nicely, doesn't leave any residue, and is nice and slick under the towel when wiping off (not grabby like some IPA based products). It's also relatively cheap compared to some other brand's "prep sprays". It will remove any road tar, grease, wax, polish, etc...
So I’m new to detailing, detailing only my personal vehicle 🚗…. So I have a 2023 and I’ve been buying products Last product I purchased was Griots Ceramic 3 in 1 works great and gave a great shine However 1 spot I’m guessing I didn’t fully wipe off the water spots before applying the 3 in 1 wax Now I have water spots in that small area that won’t come off.. Not a huge concern since you have to be in the right angle to notice I was thinking of purchasing a wax stripper however I was told to just use Dawn Dishwashing detergent on that spot and reapply wax… What do you think about that?? Either way I’m still gonna try and I’ll post my results if anyone is curious 🧐 🤷♂️🤷♂️
I heard some people saying that Dawn will eventually dry out the plastic trim and rubber pieces (like around the windows). That was the only negative I heard about Dawn, for “detailing”. Other than that, it seems like everyone agrees that it is a great stripper… for vehicles, not the pole. 😅
Silly products that are superfluous and unnecessary: 1. Tyre Cleaners (just use APC or dishwashing liquid or scrub with laundry powder) 2. Clay Lube (most are merely diluted surfactants). Simply re-apply highly diluted car shampoo onto the washed panel and start claying. Learn to think intelligently and dont blindly ape what the industry wants you to follow. 3. Prep Wipes (before applying coatings). These are the worst BS in the detailing world. As usual, such BS products aint cheap even though 99% of them are only diluted solvents. Since Americans love to foam their cars, simply foam the entire polished car with properly diluted APC (i love Megs APC at 1:3) let dwell for 5mins and RINSE with lots of water. This cleverly use flowing water to touchlessly FLOW AWAY the polishing oils DOWN onto the ground. Blow dry. Its a fast, cheap, cost-effective touchless method. Far cheaper and more logical vs spraying expensive solvent and swishing the oily mess around with a cloth (which sounds so silly).
What are your thoughts? 👀
Definitely agreed here, although DIY I don't believe recommends their rinseless for clay but I believe it can be used. Best I've found for lubrication is absolute. Smells good and its just slick
Which wheel acid do you use?
You are the voice of reason. Thanks. I've been using Nanoskin concentrate for clay lube. A 16 oz bottle lasts for years.
Hello, I just want to ask what APC you usually use? Thank you in advance.
I really appreciated this video because I didn’t really want to buy a dedicated clay lube or stripping shampoo because I already had a rinse less wash and APC. This was very helpful and made me feel better about my choice.
Adams iron remover works great for $40 a gallon, compared to a liter of iron X for almost the same amount
I agree it works great but damn that smell isn't horrible smelling but annoying...
Another one to add to list is... WINDOW CLEANER!!! Use a rinseless wash to create a 32oz "window cleaner" for like $0.07. Just about any rinseless wash brand will clean windows like a CHAMP. ONR is a winner for sure and I tend to lean on the Wash and Wax version, I like green and scent from that one. Truly appreciate you giving out these pointers that majority of people will just spend more because they "think" it is what they "should" do :)
Side note: I have used Super Clean to clean wheels (4:1). I then applied Iron remover and noticed there was zero reaction. I imagine acid would do the same as well. Iron remover not needed and your GEM tip is... "if applied to paint, just spray the wheels while you are at it".
what dilution do you do for the window cleaner?
@@KietAu Same as rinse less wash (256:1). I have a gallon container and put half an oz. Use it for window cleaning and when it's time for rinse less, just pour it into bucket. ONR is great... along with the wash and wax version or Mckees37 version. Currently for windows I prefer the Mckees version over ONR.
@@BlackIce1619 thank you!
I think the only time an actual strip wash makes sense is when they are acidic. Sometimes coatings need a kick in the ass to come back to normal, and things like descale work well. That being said you are correct that they are not great at stripping much but natural wax off a vehicle.
Lol, damn right
Waterspot remover works better & faster to bring them back 👍
Adams Wheel cleaner as an iron remover for the paint diluted 1:1 stained my plastic trim. So it’s not always the case.
Do you think using a paint-specific iron remover would have prevented your plastic trim from being stained?
Adams Wheel and Tire cleaner is also much more aggressive than Adams Iron Remover. Iron remover is almost always PH balanced. Wheel cleaner I believe is near 13ph. It also contains methanol, which if you put a similar item on plastic like gasoline, you will get similar results. Just be aware of what you are applying.
As one of the Chemists at Adam's Polishes, I will explain that there are, in fact, differences between Iron Remover and Wheel Cleaner despite both being active with thioglycolate. The Wheel Cleaner contains a thickener to make it cling, which will prevent it from wetting out over the paint well. It also contains other ingredients specific to cleaning wheels. Iron Remover doesn't have the thickener, has a different amount of the thioglycolate active, and contains more co-solvency so it doesn't stain plastics. Iron Remover can be used as a weaker variant of the Wheel Cleaner, but Wheel Cleaner should definitely not be used for paint decontamination.
I have both the IK sprayers and foamers. The sprayers work great but the foamers are a bit weak. I've used lots of brands of pump sprayers and these have held up well. The cheap ones leak
I do the Yvan method of using an iron remover as a clay lube.
Yvan is a 🐐
We personally don't do that for the odor. Yes you can combine two steps in one but I don't like being around that chemical like that. And in Texas, you couldn't pull that off outside 😅
Just keep in mind, not all Iron Removers are lubricious enough to use as a clay lube and will leave marring. DIY Detail purposely made their so it was lubricious enough to safely clay with.
@@propercareusa I live in KY so not insane Texas heat but still pretty dang hot and I had to work the Yvan panel by panel, pretty slow process. Not a problem if you are working on your own car and you enjoy detailing your car like many of us but when working on a customer car, not a good idea.
Thanks for the video, keep up the good work
IK sprayers are definitely overrated
Why?
Do you know a cheaper alternative?
@@offthehook8989 after a while the sprayer stops working even between cleaning and maintaining them properly
@@justinwinston9929 buy what works for you, I feel like most detailers starting out, only look for what’s popular or what they see other detailers using. I’ve gotten sprayers off Amazon that last longer than IK sprayers
They are pricey for sure but I think they are nice. I am not a professional nor do I detail everyday though so for me they will probably last years.
I use seal N shine and an apc cleaner wont touch that stuff.
Results may vary…
very informative video, thanks
Nice info
I-Ron 😂
Annunciation effort is strong in this guy.
Wrong effort though for this word.
I-urn is accurate.
Very legit points
As far as strip wash, I think since the protection is not a one step striping, you should use a strong - strip shampoo as well as the other processes.
For iron removers, in my country there are dead cheap wheel iron removers, but not cheap paint iron removers, so it is better to go with two products.
Do these no rinse bottles have the dilution ratio for the clay lube, glass cleaner, and etc?
Some do. The info is easily found on internet though.
Yes, the ONR (which is amazing) has magnificent dilution ratio, you only need one bottle cap of product for a 32 oz spray bottle. I use it for claying and for a quick 15 minutes exterior wash. Recommend it.
For the most part, we use the clay lube dilution for everything!
Clay lube - diluted baby Johnson
Iron decon & wheels - Adams iron removal
Or O’Reilly superior wheel acid
Strip wash - Dish washing liquid/APC / panel prep after correction
A lot of detailers sleep on orileys superior products! We’re a selected few who know about them
A-Aron decon😂
Overrated!!! Ik products
foam pro 2 its a must for every DIYer
@@emilioavila844 ive had every ik foamer they all leak, break or just stop working all together the only one that has been good is the first gen sprayer
I found breaking them down and cleaning them every couple weeks improves the longevity. I use mine frequently (about 15 cars a week). Don't store chemicals in them long term and be sure to release the pressure after every use.
@@justinrounds517 mine would leak I couldn’t even do one wheel so i just threw them away i had the sprayer 1st gen the 2nd gen foamer doesnt hold pressure garbage 1st gen gal broke within a week bought the 2nd gen one doesnt hold pressure at all garbage i think ive given then too many chances to go out and spend 40-50 bucks on another one honestly id rather do ol’ reliable spray trigger i see a lot of cars weekly also dont have the time to be wasting it on fixing the little issues
NORMAL busy people don't have time for that.
Product is a failure if it doesn't do the job I paid to acquire.
for god's sake, clay lube is soap and water...
For a clay lube can’t I just use a clay bar when I’m soaping the car?
After you wash the car then you can foam the car as you go to clay it or keep a clean soapy mit with you as you clay. That’s what I do
I think this is all about finding what works for you and keeping an open mind so you can try new products when they come out. Trust me, thousands of products available and you can find 12 that work for most of what you do. If you think I'm wrong you haven't been doing this long enough. Don't get me wrong, specialty products are available, cool and fun, and I use them, but most of the time you don't need them for an every day detail.
Cheers!
You’re hitting the nail right on the head, with everything you’re saying, thanks for the video
Usually if iron removers are pH balanced it can be used for both paint and wheels!
Asking because i don't know, not trolling, 1:1 APC on wheels is safe?
you can get away with that dilution without any damage on the wheel but its overkill imo, unless the wheel its extremely caked yeah, but try lower dilution ratio first
Your entire shtick is saying what you don’t need, don’t use or use wrong.
And it wears thin, like a poorly applied coating.
Definitely over rated, but detailers LOVE to use their expensive equipment that they got brain washed into thinking they needed, as an excuse to charge $100 bucks an hours for their basic detail 😂😂😂
Been in texas all my life, never heard latinos struggling with saying iron like this.
Try thinking of it a different way. Say the word "Are" as in "are you listening?" add an "N" to it
Are'n
Its said exactly like aren't - but without the T. Hope this helps, and dont get defensive, because you not knowing how to say the name of the decontaminate you are charging for - is not professional at all.
Imagine if someone just started saying "Ceramic" Ker-a-mick instead of sir-a-mick
They would look like a fool and ignorant, right?
Iron is no different.
Heard you could just use soapy water for clay lube and it’s been working out for me for awhile now unless I’m missing something
Affordable Maguires Gold Car wash can be used as a clay lube.
You can use car wash and water mix. Works for me.
I found out!! Clay bar lube not enough for 1 car!!😮
Darn! I use to use the turtle wax ice kit!! Not available anywhere!!
Alternative to clay lube= glass cleaner or take a tinnnny part of your car shampoo and mix it with majority water in a bottle.
I wash my car, and before I rinse it off, I'll clay the car. Using the soapy wash is a great way to save money
Your videos are great, the amount of videos i see of iron fallout remover being sprayed on dirty wheels, spray it after you clean with wheel cleaner!!
What are the only 3-4 products I need to detail the inside, wheels and wash?
❤❤❤ hittimg facts
Thanks for this video. Much appreciated.
Proper Care man finally thank you bro. Very practical and realistic. Appreciate it 🙏
Yup, I agree on all 3
Nice video. Food for thought! 👍
All good info!
What would be a good dilution ratio for clay lube. When using like you recommended a rinseless wash
256:1 for diy rinseless
I buy all my Iron decon in a 5 gallon drums , in fact all of my chems come in 5 gallon drums except my soap which comes in a 55 gallon drum, This really keeps my overhead down . Another thing i do thats may seam weird but really works is when i get a job my shop picker will put together a tote with all i need for that job so all the cloths are vac packed , brushes , chems , etc . This plays on the clients mind as when my employee shows up the client sees everything is sealed so he thinks brand new and these gujys / girls are very organized. Plus each Ambulance has a gloss meter , tablet etc , so we always use the ipad and do a walk around noting dam etc , we do a paint thickness, gloss readings , have the client sign it and we go to work , at the end we take a 2nd pic a gloss meter reading and print it out useing a the small photo printer showing before and after on the pic . But by doing this it keeps cost down as , as my staff are not using to much chemicals , cloths etc , the pics protect from the client saying we damaged the vehicle, plus it actually makes it faster for my staff plus it makes us look way more professional so are clients are very happy to pay our prices, also by printing a before and after pic it acts as a businesscard and advertisement when they show their buds. I do have one big thing to ask right now i have 5 ambulances in my fleet but the cost of fuel is getting out of hand , was thinking about buy the new ford E - Transit vans , but have zero other ideas any suggestions ?
Next level thinking.
Which brand of Iron Decon do you buy in the 5 gallon containers?
@bluegrasskid4835 I buy Bilthamber Korrosol 25 liter units , but my math was wrong as that in us gallons is 6.6 gallons , I do apologize for that here in canada we use the metric system , I use to buy Adam's in the 5 gallons size but , now 90% of my shop chemicals are Bilthamber
Here's an idea some bumbling old DC swamp monster that is currently pretending to play the POTUS (in 2023) would have to say, "Learn to code!"
Quick question is super clean safe for interiors , and if so if diluted does it become an APC
Super Clean is my "last resort" when it comes to cleaning interiors. That is some really strong stuff. Now, if you have a Soccer Mom Van slammed with stains on the carpet and leather, that soiling may laugh at some dedicated interior cleaners and you have to bring out the fangs and hit it with a strong APC/Degreaser like Super Clean but I would much rather start off less aggressive such as the mentioned dedicated interior cleaner and work my way up if needed.
@@bluegrasskid4835 I heavily dilute it in a 32 oz I put maybe 2 ounces or 1 depending on the situation
clay lube = onr is life
The worse person even though I like his videos and he does think outside the box is Scott Bley the guys in Dallas. He will have you purchasing everything, then a year or two later he is telling you something else. Thank you for being real on here, love your posts.
Who?
/rhetorical ?
I've gotten a few polishes and what not that he gave the gold star. Hasn't let me down yet. Don't watch Ammo. His products will have you maxing out the cards.
This video is excellent, but maybe the title could have been overrated decontamination products 👌🏼
If you want a dedicated "strip wash", without going to mechanical cleaning steps, ie. polishing, sanding, etc. You can try Citrol spray as the strip wash, or even a strong APC diluted 10:1...that stuff will break down 99% of any paint protection you had on previously, even most freshly applied paint protection.
As for prep sprays...I really recommend you try Rustoleum Wax & Tar Remover. It's a professional solvent based paint prep, that flashes off really nicely, doesn't leave any residue, and is nice and slick under the towel when wiping off (not grabby like some IPA based products). It's also relatively cheap compared to some other brand's "prep sprays". It will remove any road tar, grease, wax, polish, etc...
So instead of buying a wheel and tire cleaner just stick to an iron remover?
Snow foam.
Tangy apples.
(since we're just throwing out gibberish)
Is using iron decon as clay lube a good idea?
Not optimal
So I’m new to detailing, detailing only my personal vehicle 🚗…. So I have a 2023 and I’ve been buying products
Last product I purchased was Griots Ceramic 3 in 1 works great and gave a great shine
However 1 spot I’m guessing I didn’t fully wipe off the water spots before applying the 3 in 1 wax
Now I have water spots in that small area that won’t come off.. Not a huge concern since you have to be in the right angle to notice
I was thinking of purchasing a wax stripper however I was told to just use Dawn Dishwashing detergent on that spot and reapply wax…
What do you think about that?? Either way I’m still gonna try and I’ll post my results if anyone is curious 🧐 🤷♂️🤷♂️
I heard some people saying that Dawn will eventually dry out the plastic trim and rubber pieces (like around the windows).
That was the only negative I heard about Dawn, for “detailing”. Other than that, it seems like everyone agrees that it is a great stripper… for vehicles, not the pole. 😅
Silly products that are superfluous and unnecessary:
1. Tyre Cleaners
(just use APC or dishwashing liquid or scrub with laundry powder)
2. Clay Lube (most are merely diluted surfactants).
Simply re-apply highly diluted car shampoo onto the washed panel and start claying. Learn to think intelligently and dont blindly ape what the industry wants you to follow.
3. Prep Wipes (before applying coatings). These are the worst BS in the detailing world. As usual, such BS products aint cheap even though 99% of them are only diluted solvents. Since Americans love to foam their cars, simply foam the entire polished car with properly diluted APC (i love Megs APC at 1:3) let dwell for 5mins and RINSE with lots of water. This cleverly use flowing water to touchlessly FLOW AWAY the polishing oils DOWN onto the ground. Blow dry. Its a fast, cheap, cost-effective touchless method. Far cheaper and more logical vs spraying expensive solvent and swishing the oily mess around with a cloth (which sounds so silly).
Silly foreign misspellings of a USA English word such as, tire.
#AmericaFirst