Please upvote to save this van My guy, it looks like you've now got unfused positive cables going through the interior of your car. It won't really be a problem if never rubs through. But if that positive ever gets a cut, or rubs through, you'll have a nice fire on your hands. As a mechanic, that's unsettling. Add a fuse as close to the alternator as possible
@@overanalyzed5563 they plan to add one. But most have a ceiling and will only output so much. So worst case, the battery pack takes too much power, and the main electrical system doesn't have enough to run, and slowly dies. It would leave them on the side of the road, not hurt anything
Since you are in a car you can just use WD55 for cooling. (Window Down 55MPH). If you drive around in the winter that should even allow for some modest overclocking ;)
Stock Alt is the minimum, some cars don’t even have good battery’s, as they are undersized for the cranking requirements and die faster then they need to.
As someone who spent years as a certified RV Technician putting heavy duty charging systems into vehicles, DO NOT hook the system directly to the alternator. You do need the upgraded alternator, which may or may not require a different sized belt, but after you install the new alternator, you need to install a dual battery isolator of an amp rating high enough according to the alternator that you are getting. You can either go with an automatic smart isolator relay (preferred) or a manual one with a switch. Hook the power leads up to the isolator. This keeps all circuits safe (car computers are expensive) and there is no way that the car battery will be drained when not running.
These units isolate themselves from power inputs (internal solid-state relay, usually) at a preset or user defined voltage (eg, begin charge from alternator at 13.8v, stop drawing from vehicle at 13.3v), and you can set a maximum alternator draw current in them, eg set the charger to draw 30a max from the alternator, so it doesn't overload. These sort of units also don't ike being hard-power cycled like an isolator would do. The bigger issue is having a pcm-controlled 'smart' alternator, like in most new vehicles. The ecu commands them off or into a very low state for fuel efficiency, and this can cause issues with the charger detecting when the alternator is actually active. Especially when pesky accessory fitters connect the main inputs directly to the terminals on the wrong side of the shunt/s so the ecu can't see the draw and compensate by commanding a higher charging state. Proper way to do this is to run the unit off an auxiliary battery that is running off a DC/DC charger with the correct charge detection for this cars smart alternator. My auto electrical cert is cringing watching this video, and I'm glad it's only a temporary setup for the content. Feeling like I'm a waste of an automotive engineering cert as well lol
I notice storage temperatures aren't mentioned. If you make a summer trip to Disney in Florida don't leave it in the parked car, it might explode or maybe just melt the plastic casing. So many tourists don't understand how hot their cars get,m we're talking 160F here. My OEM Toyota car stereo face even melted because of the heat down here.
You REALLY ought to have a properly rated fuse between the alternator's positive connection and the wire going to the trunk. In the current setup, if the positive wire breaks or frays at any point and touches chassis, you're going to fry your alternator in the best case, and have a serious fire in the worst case. This hazard is only going to grow when you put in a bigger alternator that can source more short circuit current
Correct a fuse in line is a must. Also a battery isolator under the hood to allow separation from vehicle battery and the rear setup would be advised as it would allow preferred charging and to prevent phantom drain on the factory vehicle battery.
@@meseone920 I would suspect isolation is built into this particular product. Just guessing. In a pieced together build yes though unless you want to use the battery bank for starting and drain your starting battery with ignition off draw.
Agreed. Definitely need an inline fuse and the cutoff. I also don't know if this is substantiated or just superstition, but I've always been told you shouldn't wire anything directly to the alternator. and instead go to the battery bus
As a car audio guy running a very high output extra battery in the rear, you should have 2 fuses in that alt/bat cable, 1 near the alt and 1 near the bat
@@thesi99 I'd definitely agree with you if it was a direct connect lead-acid in the rear, but the cable is going to a semiconductor switched "load", so there shouldn't be a risk of backfeeding into the cable like you'd get with a standard battery. Still wouldn't hurt to have it for ultimate peace of mind though
So I live in an RV and this 100% fits what I need. to fit it in my RV, I might have to kill some of my storage in the back or remove the water storage tank (doesn't get used) to make room for this. I was already considering Jackery but this might do the trick as well.
that kit costs almost 10k $ I think its better to buy a hybrid victron inverter. I bought a 3kw 48volt hybrid growatt inverter because it was only 500Euro
You would be better off buying EG4 server rack battery 5 kwh for 1500 bucks or buy 1kwh chins battery 12v from amazon for 300 bucks. If you are using solar or installing solar a midnight charge colltroller is ideal. Then any inverter. Get 2 of them. One for loads that are on all the time and then demand loads where you turn the inverter on to use such loads. You will get far more system with buying your EG4 than buying this thing.
@@faustinpippin9208 The only thing that sucks with victron is that you have to buy every part to have a full system. You can buy a EG4 all in one inverter that has everything victron has for a fraction of the price.
at least for europe, there are plenty of adatpers from Type 2(standard EU EV-Plug) to CEE(appliance outlet for stuff over 3 kW) which you could use inside of the car
@@MrDragonorp no, because messing with the electrical system in an electric car is more janky and dangerous than this, not to mention you’d be throwing away your warranty on an expensive new electric car whereas I’m assuming based off the age of this minivan it’s already out of warranty.
in part 2 they are gonna need a new alternator by making it work overtime trying to keep those batteries topped up hahaha, the stock alternator will not be strong enough to run the car and all those extra electronics for more than 1 or 1.5 years
You Guys should connect the ecoflow to the cars' electrical system via relays triggered from the ignition switch to avoid unnecessary power draw without the engine on. I wouldn't rely solely on that detection feature, better safe than sorry, stranded with your kids in back can't be fun
Agreed. I also wonder about charging via alternator because of Honda's Electronic Load Distribution (ELD). On a stock car the alternator won't always be at 14 volts, it's dependent on load (such as turning the headlights on). Hondas have had this since the 90s at least. I would think the load of charging that battery would prevent this but I'm not sure. They're also talking about putting a larger alternator on which I've heard also causes issues with ELD.
@@DigitalHi5 You may want to figure out how a car's electrical system works before posting answers on it. The car's battery gets its power from a wire connected to the alternator as well. That would mean this ecoflow battery is also directly connected to the car's battery via the exact same terminal on the alternator.
Me and my two cousins played rock band with drums, guitar and bass in the backseat of my uncle's F350 from NY to FL in 2008. We were quickly shutdown on the drums but it was an awesome trip.
Linus: monitors in this car should be attached to the roof,on some sort of hinges, so that they can be lowered down (like opening a laptop) and peripherals should be attached to seats. This will allow for the best gaming experience possible, cause it looked like your current direction is not ergonomic.
Or could just make a table of some sorts to use something called a laptop. The thing 99.9% of people would use with a setup like this. Its aggravating that they dont do battery drain tests with one instead always using a pc rig with their portable battery tests.
True and Linus also highly recommend Steam Deck but as he mentioned in the intro he wanted to try this for years and both Linus and Jake acknowledge how silly and dumb this thing is by the end of the video. But it makes for fun content, so it's all worth it, I guess. Haha
@@Adlata why tf are you here if you're so whingy and hate content like this? he's always done crazy stuff like this so idk why you're being such a cunt.
This is amazing, I remember in '98 our family got a minivan with a small flip down screen w/ DVD player in the back. Always tried to get the NES to work in there, but never did. Now I'm 30, and you can put a whole PC in there. So cool + nostalgia factor.
I also have the same memory of playing a wii in the back of the minivan on family road trips. We used one of those tiny 9-10 inch CRT/VCR combo TV units and hooked it up via component video. I thought it was so cool as a kid. This is just on another level.
@@connorstevenson3935 Once before I was carpooling in a minivan for a four-hour trip; seatback in front of me had a slot to put your phone or tablet to watch movies, so naturally I instead put my Switch in the slot and played only motion games (aisle seat, nobody was annoyed in the writing of this comment). Worked like a dream.
I just keep my steamdeck in my backpack when driving my chevy volt and play some games when im parked for a long time. What i would like to see if a portable charger ev solution that can be kept in your car with solar panels and can probably provide like 10 miles or so with emergency charge.
This man is a genius. He gets sponsored to make these videos that directly help him, and then he gets another ~$2k from ad revenue. Even though he spent a ton on tech he still net profited from this video. Amazing. I love you Linus.
Can’t wait to see what suspension upgrades you do in the vid for the weight, also add a fuse before you get to any though points of the chassis in case something shorts. And don’t attach to the chassis for ground. Use the alternator ground, for example an eyelet through the mounting bolt.
@@fynkozari9271 True, but there are very few powergrids that exclusively use fossil fuels anymore. France produces 70% of their energy from Nuclear, and Germany has to pay other countries to take their wind power in the winter because the turbines produce more energy than they can use.
@@Random_dud31 I'd be more concerned with the lithum batteries catching fire. Wonder if those things are designed to resist impacts, like electric car batteries
@@Random_dud31 Depends what coverage you get as not all car insurance covers your own in car valuables and some have a limit to the value of those valuables aswell
It's not mobile gaming. In technicality maybe, but if you can't pick up your screen and go somewhere with your peripherals, without having to worry about batteries or computers, it's not mobile.
@Mawk zuckabewg are you really gonna make the case for this being a good mobile gaming solution? What about if you're in a waiting room? Gonna lug your PC and a giant battery in with you? Technicalities are dumb in this case.
A/C in a car is usually comparable to central cooling in a medium house, due to the poor insulation and huge windows in cars. 600w power draw on a PC won't touch the A/C in the car.
Wow, didn't think it will use that much current. But I know that it affects the power of the car on lower powered ones, and 745W = 1 HP, so I guess it can consume several HP if the car feels slower after it is activated.
@@achilleaustin4477 180 hp and 5000 lbs is slow asf bro. My 10 year old Volvo makes 227 and weighs half of that and that car is faster than most but not a race car by any means
Expanding on what Jake was saying, an alternator is designed to replenish the battery's energy after accounting for Starting, Lights and Ignition - that's what SLI stands for when referring to an SLI battery. While using an alternator to power additional high load may still fit within it's "specifications", it will dramatically shorten it's lifespan as alternators are not expected to sustain huge currents for long periods of time. Long term, definitely go with that larger alternator!
It is SOOO touching to see Linus with his family, when you've been a subscriber for a decade & saw this channel build up to what is is now, truly amazing & much much deserved!
So we GAME and RC, a VERB now..... any days, we modded our family 1992 CHEVY G20 Van camper into a BUDGET "overland gaming exploration vehicle". We personally achieved our power requirements by utilizing the x2 HARBOR FREIGHT 100watt solar kits, paired with cheapo AGM deep cell packs, and a JUPITER 1000watt inverter. i know very little, and require little recharge power in comparison, but has been a SPECTACULAR investment for our particular "over the road adventure" needs. Mat be a MUCH cheaper option, also significantly less performance... Great content and keep up the great work!!!
This is awesome but IMO I'd rather just get a couple Stem Decks or Switches and plug a power inverter into the cigarette lighter to charge them on long road trips for a much cheaper cost, but this setup could easily power a PS5 or Series S/X for a several hours since they cap out around 200-300W but IMO is nowhere near the cost investment unless you were using it to actually live in a vehicle.
Its worth it for youtube content, not because his kids actually need 3 ultra quality cyberpunk able gaming rigs in a van. Steam deck or switch is already perfect for that use case for average people
@@dscarmo Yeah that's why I posted it with IMO because I realize it's sponsored and a cool product but for nearly 10k+ it's not for the average viewer who could easily just buy a Steam Deck or gaming Laptop that lasts just as long for much less investment. It's very cool but I would not purchase it unless it was under $2k, I realize they'll probably sell a ton after this video but I replied so maybe a few people will see and realize that it's a bad idea both for the alternator's longevity and the viewers wallet.
Lfp battery chemistry has very nice charge discharge cycle count compared to li-ion I believe 3, 000 to 80% but sometimes there are LFP batteries that are 6,000 cycles to 80% capacity which is a lot I've charged discharge cycles
Car gaming is specifically why I liked my Lenovo Y50 gaming laptop back in the day. Playing Witcher 3 and Skyrim in the car was a blast. Now there are HANDHELD ways to do that exact same thing...or there's this option too lol. The shot of Linus with the keyboard on his lap and the monitor "visually attached" right to it just reminded me super hard of my laptop gaming days.
I've used an Ecoflow River Pro setup when camping way out in the woods before. It's an absolute godsend for watching movies at night with an LED projector. I can't wait to see where this series goes, and what Yvonne's reaction to all this will be...
This is exactly the kind of shenanigans I was expecting when I was subscribing years ago, thank you for putting out a lot weird projects such as this one
For the 120v 30 amp, you should have shown the NEMA TT-30R connector which is what RVs use. Campground plugs offer the NEMA 14-50 (210/240 volt 30-50 amp), NEMA TT-30R (120 volt 30 amp) and also a standard wall outlet (NEMA 5-15). Other connector types can be found at marinas ("marine shore power" - a.k.a. NEMA SS1-50 or SS2-50), but these are much less common. Minivan + trip + kids = RV campground so as I said - NEMA 5-15 or TT-30 or 14-50. (note: TT-30R is the "receptacle" while the TT-30P is the "plug" - helps to know when googling these things.)
@@littlejackalo5326 yeah neither would I. better just add level 2 chagring plug. So when you got to run in some where and just leave them gaming in the car. This is where an Tesla or EV would work much better. Kinda wish they made a EV mini van.
"something more modest in terms of spec" *proceeds to have a CPU more expensive and faster than my car and a GPU that can move more air than my ceiling fan*
The cars lights will stop flickering or flicker less if you connect the charging system for the batteries to the cars battery instead of the alternator! You just need to make sure to have a relay that shuts power off to the batteries when the car is shut off. Don’t want to kill your car’s battery :) 👍 11:39
You guys should really utilize your engineering team to advise on things like wiring your car alternator to a battery system (hint: fuses), so that you don’t burn down your car, house, etc.
This is like every adult’s dream as a kid lol. Linus, want another kid? I’ll pretend to be one. Just tell the neighbors I was 30 years overdue and drank lots of milk 🤷🏻♀️ they’ll never know
I feel like the holidays had an effect on the editing. The bloopers inside the video were fun but they were less polished than usually. That might explain how it got past the QC. Linus sweared in the last WAN show as well because the swear buttons didn't work due to the power outage.
This entire setup is amazing, but at 20:55, seeing Linus with a setup that is basically just an unstable laptop, makes me think they could have just used laptops to game in there the entire time...
That's a pretty amazing piece of kit you have there. Would be very nice when deployed in an actual motorhome or camping van to run lights, fridge, stove, etc. Although personally I would prefer the independent components (MPPT, inverter, DC charger, etc.) separate instead of all in one as this unit, since if any individual part breaks you can replace only that one part, instead of having to rip out the entire unit and replace it. But for ease of use and installation this is amazing, everything plug and play and just goes together with no hassles since doing something like this DIY is not as easy as you make it look. Although if I were you I would put a fuse on the live wire running from the alternator to your trunk, since that's a fire waiting to happen.
One thing I thought of is the batteries are in the crumple zone if your van we're to be rear ended it might be smart to move them but it really doesn't matter
I added a Jellyfin laptop server and Wifi using a pure sine wave inverter. One kid gets 2.4 ghz and the other gets the 5ghz band on their tablets. Also, if you do wifi, local coop on Steamdecks becomes possible (just get some padding for them).
For the gaming PC's I'd use an AMD RX 6600XT and Ryzen 7 7800X, with the GPU undervolted to 0.8v and the CPU to 0.9v. This will reduce total system power to just a little above 100 watts while providing very solid gaming performance at 1080p and enabling you to cool the system passively, something that would be very nice to have in a dusty and cramped car.
But what if they somehow attached a (relatively) small radiator in front of the car radiator and made a super long liquid cooled loop for the PC(s). I feel like that is ripe for issues but if protected properly, it could work and could fit on some larger GPU like a 3070 or 6800 XT without having to worry about thermals. Probably want a quick disconnect system for it so that replacing a GPU and its block doesn't involve draining the loop.
@@ryankulp2073 I don't think that tapping into the engine's cooling system is a good idea. The heat carried from the engine is much hotter than what the PC components put out. Also different metals from the blocks may cause issues with accidentally creating a battery, especially with aluminum in the cooling system.
@@sw33t.angela in a standard form thats correct. I have faith the linus team could figure something out. Also antifreeze has lots of anti corrosives in it so i dont think thered be any issues with cross material effects
I love how Linus has remained such a normal guy during these years. Still in the mindset of saving on gas and being a bit of a cheapskate when he has one of the most influencial tech channels on youtube! Always makes me smile :)
They pay for their time not spent on integration and setup. Some people prefer to pay for the convenience instead of spending their time. There's market for everyone.
I have ecoflow batteries for my garage with no power and you are paying for the packaging and convenience. I paid 2k for 3kwh of capacity and while I could have built something myself cheaper and with higher capacity it would not be nearly as convenient to move to charge. Everything is self contained and I can carry both battery units at once which is important since I need to charge inside my apartment.
Make sure that you put a big fuse between the alternator (or the start of the cable, if going to the battery) and the power lead to the ecoflow delta, to ensure that if there is a short on the cable in the car, the power is cut to the cable to prevent electrical fires. 😉
For Video 2, you should show how you can use this to power your hours in case of an outage, and maybe see if you can make the tesla do it too. The new F150 electric truck can do it, and would be a good reason to bring back your favorite electrician.
Love this video so much! Cars + computers are two of my favorite topics. I’d definitely recommend connecting to the battery with a fuse/relays instead of the alternator though! With car electronics it’s always better to have more safety. Can’t wait for part 2!
That would cause too much current going through the stock alternator wire and most likely cause worse issues like excess heat melting the insulation off of the stock alternator wire which isn't very large this is like adding a 5,000watt amplifer you don't just connect it to the battery and everything is good to go you need to upgrade the alternator and add thicker gauge wires to the entire curcuit so it can handle more current
I hope you guys bought an alternator from a good builder. Mechman has always been good to me. Although, I have a custom 425 amp unit from BrandX Electrical now.
This is an interesting video, but I would NOT want two HEAVY 37.7 Ibs (17.1 kg) batteries and that 31 lbs (14 kg) power hub just sitting loose in the back of my minivan in the case of a serious crash. The batteries and power hub will become deadly projectiles. The webbing straps and mounting hardware are not going to keep those pieces from coming loose from the plywood, and even if they do stay attached to the plywood, the whole plywood base is not secured to anything in the vehicle so the whole assembly could easily get dislodged from the back of the minivan in a crash. The physics of a moderate to high-speed automobile crash are usually not in your favor even with modern safety designs, and you put yourself in even more dire circumstances when you have two heavy batteries and the power hub potentially bouncing around in the cabin during a crash. The whole batter/power hub assembly in the back cargo area of the vehicle could also potentially negatively affect the integrity/design of the rear crumple zone of the vehicle, which is designed to dissipate energy in a crash to protect the occupants that are sitting forward of the rear crumple zone. There are already 2,5000+ comments so I'm sure nobody will ever see this, but just my two cents!
yeah the plywood isn’t attached to anything and if a crash happens all that mass in free to move. The straps surely can hold the batteries in place but e.g. Driving 60mph and crashing will make that whole rig have force of up to 1300kg moving freely in the trunk. No seat can hold that back and passangers are gonna get squashed.
I believe you should have installed a Compacitor between the Alternator and battery pack thats probably why your Lights are flickering I like my stereo systems and when I do my Subs I always add an Extra Battery and a Compacitor to stop my lights from dimming and Flickering everytime the Bass Hits
Not really sure the capacitor would help much. It helps with bass amps since it only pulls a lot of power when the bass hits, then has time to recharge. On a constant load, I don't really know if it would make a difference. I usually run big stuff off a completely separate alternator from the one powering the car's computer now, since I've had trouble with the engine shutting off when the extra crap pulls a bunch of power and makes the voltage fluctuate and my ECU would reset. Edit: That was on older OBD1 cars though. Maybe the newer ones are less sensitive to that.
*capacitor. And it helps with extremely short periods of voltage drop, which is OK for music. I think a coil would do better to keep a steady current for lights and it's easier and cheaper to get a higher inductance rather than a higher capacitance.
Capacitors are not necessary. I have an 8000+ watt system and my lights don't dim at all. As long as your battery bank is big enough and your alternator is big enough and you have proper wiring you won't have dimming issues.
Adding that to your alternator will use up quite a bit more fuel, depending on charge, and changing to a bigger alternator again will use up more fuel. It is more expensive to charge the eco flow with fuel then to just use electric
They're trying to build a somewhat functional system that can last for a decent bit during a road trip. Putting 4090s would be stupid, regardless if it's "LTT"...
Hey LTT, I love your videos and would really love an updated video on couch gaming options for PC users. My Corsair lapboard is driving me crazy and the Razer Turret is too small. I'd love to get a fresh take on your guys' perspective and maybe see some DIY options? Thank you regardless!
there are some non-industrial ones that have fans barely noticeable. fanless is a decent idea, but they generally don't perform well when it comes to modern gaming. I've seen one mini-pc that has a ryzen 7 mobile processor and the youtuber showed how powerful it is for a unit that uses something around 100w or less (if i remember correctly). I believe asus makes it but I'm not quite sure.
I have a 9 kWh system (this setup is 4 kWh) in my van, and love it. I am in the process of mounting a Thunderbolt eGPU so I can plug in my laptop in and game. I've already done several road trips running lots of devices and it's been great.
It's cool but not really that practical, using a portable device and just plugging it into the existing electrical system will get you most of the way there and it can even leave the vehicle if you want.
If you have your breaker box set up and a generator inlet in the garage then I assume you could just open the trunk of the car / side door and run the cable directly to the inlet without actually removing the setup and while leaving the car in the garage (or moving it to your driveway for the solar panels / active charging on idle). When my neighborhood loses power my neighbor runs his house off his truck.
I would love you to take an idea of making it like a small van for an average travel videographer that wants to edit his videos and his video games in his small car or a small van, or maybe something like that for all the guys that live and life or want to go into Vanlife, you may just make van life possible for someone like me a tech junkie
there are already tons of dedicated channels for this. LTT wouldn't really do it service. You can just go watch one of the hundreds of electrical engineers that have videos on this.
I had a Wii in my parents SUV for 7 years and it was the most fun gaming experience I've ever had. While driving to school 4-5 of my friends carpooled since it was a 30 minute drive. We played New Super Mario Bros and I logged probably 1000+ hours over that time. The Wii was plugged into an inverter and we used the built in DVD player in the car. The sensor bar was just wedged in the headrest of the front seat and it worked well enough. That also showed that Wiis are built like tanks since it sat underneath the rear seat with basically no cooling and no maintenance and bounced down the road for probably 100,000 miles.
Please upvote to save this van
My guy, it looks like you've now got unfused positive cables going through the interior of your car. It won't really be a problem if never rubs through. But if that positive ever gets a cut, or rubs through, you'll have a nice fire on your hands.
As a mechanic, that's unsettling. Add a fuse as close to the alternator as possible
good point
Would he need a larger alternator since he’ll have more power draw as well?
Very true, the chassis will act as a negative terminal if it shorts.
@@overanalyzed5563 they plan to add one. But most have a ceiling and will only output so much. So worst case, the battery pack takes too much power, and the main electrical system doesn't have enough to run, and slowly dies. It would leave them on the side of the road, not hurt anything
Tbh I’m wondering why they didn’t come off the battery instead of the alternator lol
can't wait for part 4 where they'll water cool the whole car and pc
The car is already watercooled
@@vroomvroom4061 lmao run coolant through a cpu/gpu block 🫨
@@NovaRedHead problem is the coolant in a car is around 200 degrees F.
@@Thezuule1 🫨😅
@@Thezuule1 then put it through the inverter too so it's -200 F. Basically liquid nitrogen!
Love that the editors left in the multiple "Disabled" rather than "Discontinued" cuts.
And didn’t blur his license plate for once 🤔
Since you are in a car you can just use WD55 for cooling. (Window Down 55MPH). If you drive around in the winter that should even allow for some modest overclocking ;)
I love the optimism of getting a larger alternator in this thing
Not hard to do, a lot of the time it doesn't even require a different case than oem.
popular modification for people who have a crazy sound setup that needs more power.
Stock Alt is the minimum, some cars don’t even have good battery’s, as they are undersized for the cranking requirements and die faster then they need to.
@@Tonykid7 can also change the windings from an OE part. I got my stock alternator rewould for 215A from 160A.
Once they don't just slap a high output alt in there without upgrading the grounds
As someone who spent years as a certified RV Technician putting heavy duty charging systems into vehicles, DO NOT hook the system directly to the alternator. You do need the upgraded alternator, which may or may not require a different sized belt, but after you install the new alternator, you need to install a dual battery isolator of an amp rating high enough according to the alternator that you are getting. You can either go with an automatic smart isolator relay (preferred) or a manual one with a switch. Hook the power leads up to the isolator. This keeps all circuits safe (car computers are expensive) and there is no way that the car battery will be drained when not running.
These units isolate themselves from power inputs (internal solid-state relay, usually) at a preset or user defined voltage (eg, begin charge from alternator at 13.8v, stop drawing from vehicle at 13.3v), and you can set a maximum alternator draw current in them, eg set the charger to draw 30a max from the alternator, so it doesn't overload. These sort of units also don't ike being hard-power cycled like an isolator would do.
The bigger issue is having a pcm-controlled 'smart' alternator, like in most new vehicles. The ecu commands them off or into a very low state for fuel efficiency, and this can cause issues with the charger detecting when the alternator is actually active. Especially when pesky accessory fitters connect the main inputs directly to the terminals on the wrong side of the shunt/s so the ecu can't see the draw and compensate by commanding a higher charging state.
Proper way to do this is to run the unit off an auxiliary battery that is running off a DC/DC charger with the correct charge detection for this cars smart alternator.
My auto electrical cert is cringing watching this video, and I'm glad it's only a temporary setup for the content. Feeling like I'm a waste of an automotive engineering cert as well lol
LTT has achieved "Pimp my ride" content
Terribly underrated
New series idea? LTT My Ride!
I have a solar panel on my truck. It created such a wind tunnel I had to put a big metal piece on the front to direct air over the panels.
Dang, this needs to rise up in the comments!
seems like the perfect opportunity to add a wind turbine
@@yeisonrodriguez4958 can never have enough charging!
@@jbruuuu Only down side is more drag on the van, means you would get better efficiency being more aerodynamic, and just run off a bigger alternator.
Linus the type of guy to give his 6 kids a gaming pc to play competitive gaming while on a road trip
I think he only has three kids.
@@danieldougan269 plus Jake, Riley and Colton
yup
I notice storage temperatures aren't mentioned. If you make a summer trip to Disney in Florida don't leave it in the parked car, it might explode or maybe just melt the plastic casing. So many tourists don't understand how hot their cars get,m we're talking 160F here. My OEM Toyota car stereo face even melted because of the heat down here.
I wonder how safe it is in the event of a flood? I presume it would shut down in a safe non-destructive manner?
You REALLY ought to have a properly rated fuse between the alternator's positive connection and the wire going to the trunk. In the current setup, if the positive wire breaks or frays at any point and touches chassis, you're going to fry your alternator in the best case, and have a serious fire in the worst case. This hazard is only going to grow when you put in a bigger alternator that can source more short circuit current
Correct a fuse in line is a must. Also a battery isolator under the hood to allow separation from vehicle battery and the rear setup would be advised as it would allow preferred charging and to prevent phantom drain on the factory vehicle battery.
@@meseone920 I would suspect isolation is built into this particular product. Just guessing. In a pieced together build yes though unless you want to use the battery bank for starting and drain your starting battery with ignition off draw.
Agreed. Definitely need an inline fuse and the cutoff. I also don't know if this is substantiated or just superstition, but I've always been told you shouldn't wire anything directly to the alternator. and instead go to the battery bus
As a car audio guy running a very high output extra battery in the rear, you should have 2 fuses in that alt/bat cable, 1 near the alt and 1 near the bat
@@thesi99 I'd definitely agree with you if it was a direct connect lead-acid in the rear, but the cable is going to a semiconductor switched "load", so there shouldn't be a risk of backfeeding into the cable like you'd get with a standard battery. Still wouldn't hurt to have it for ultimate peace of mind though
Linus' kids are legit living their best life and I'm all for it!
@Safou Top10 ツ shush bot
Lmfaoo exactly 😂❤
@@stagergamer4172 bot lives matter to ho
@@khalilahd. tryna do the same with our kids 🥴
@@Trappy-C nah, it’s just an emotionless clout or cashgrab
Imagine Linus driving up to kids asking if they want to play in his van
that just sounds weird as hell, dont bring these ideas online please, to many stupid people in the world that can use them for bad intensions
FREE WIFI
@@kiiikoooPT thats the point lol
@@ashtonbeinfr that's why I said what I said to, that's the point to...
@@kiiikoooPT thats why he said that thats the point of the point...
So I live in an RV and this 100% fits what I need. to fit it in my RV, I might have to kill some of my storage in the back or remove the water storage tank (doesn't get used) to make room for this. I was already considering Jackery but this might do the trick as well.
that kit costs almost 10k $ I think its better to buy a hybrid victron inverter. I bought a 3kw 48volt hybrid growatt inverter because it was only 500Euro
@Faustin Pippin ecoflow products are way overpriced. They are also all over TH-cam
You would be better off buying EG4 server rack battery 5 kwh for 1500 bucks or buy 1kwh chins battery 12v from amazon for 300 bucks. If you are using solar or installing solar a midnight charge colltroller is ideal. Then any inverter. Get 2 of them. One for loads that are on all the time and then demand loads where you turn the inverter on to use such loads.
You will get far more system with buying your EG4 than buying this thing.
@@faustinpippin9208 The only thing that sucks with victron is that you have to buy every part to have a full system. You can buy a EG4 all in one inverter that has everything victron has for a fraction of the price.
You live in RV cause it's fun?
I love how he says a more modest system and will give them a setup better than mine
I mean the 3080 ti is pretty modest. The 1.2k price point is less than half of a paycheck for me.
Dude you keeping up on rent?
@@abraxas6326 I used to have a 3080 ti then I broke it. That thing in my opinion was not modest better than my RX 6800 Xt.
Thats is probably a joke, its a freaking epyc
@@abraxas6326 Cool cool, but nobody asked.
Gotta put a level 2 charge port on the van and pull up to the EV charger when you go to the mall.
that is a surprisingly good idea
They should just install this in a tesla/electrical vehicle or hybrid and just connect it to the main car batteries.
at least for europe, there are plenty of adatpers from Type 2(standard EU EV-Plug) to CEE(appliance outlet for stuff over 3 kW) which you could use inside of the car
@@MrDragonorp Or just buy an Ioniq 5 and pull electricity straight from the 3,5kW V2L outlet below the back seats.
@@MrDragonorp no, because messing with the electrical system in an electric car is more janky and dangerous than this, not to mention you’d be throwing away your warranty on an expensive new electric car whereas I’m assuming based off the age of this minivan it’s already out of warranty.
WE NEED PART 2
BAMBOOZLED
facts
Yes.
in part 2 they are gonna need a new alternator by making it work overtime trying to keep those batteries topped up hahaha, the stock alternator will not be strong enough to run the car and all those extra electronics for more than 1 or 1.5 years
Facts! Its been 7 months
You Guys should connect the ecoflow to the cars' electrical system via relays triggered from the ignition switch to avoid unnecessary power draw without the engine on. I wouldn't rely solely on that detection feature, better safe than sorry, stranded with your kids in back can't be fun
I don't think this is going to be a permanent fixture in this car lol
Agreed. I also wonder about charging via alternator because of Honda's Electronic Load Distribution (ELD). On a stock car the alternator won't always be at 14 volts, it's dependent on load (such as turning the headlights on). Hondas have had this since the 90s at least. I would think the load of charging that battery would prevent this but I'm not sure. They're also talking about putting a larger alternator on which I've heard also causes issues with ELD.
It's connected to the alternator not the cars battery
@@DigitalHi5 You may want to figure out how a car's electrical system works before posting answers on it. The car's battery gets its power from a wire connected to the alternator as well. That would mean this ecoflow battery is also directly connected to the car's battery via the exact same terminal on the alternator.
12:39 Linus' face reacting to the nerd talk was priceless. He's like "please help me, make it stop"
its really clear that the alternator does
more like : "These guys are trying to blow up my car" face
or "how do i explain this to my wife"
I think he's more worried that computer techs are doing attempting vehicle engineering on HIS own car 🤣😂
@@Kay8B Eh, its a Honda. It can take it. That V6 has got plenty of power.
Me and my two cousins played rock band with drums, guitar and bass in the backseat of my uncle's F350 from NY to FL in 2008. We were quickly shutdown on the drums but it was an awesome trip.
Linus: monitors in this car should be attached to the roof,on some sort of hinges, so that they can be lowered down (like opening a laptop) and peripherals should be attached to seats. This will allow for the best gaming experience possible, cause it looked like your current direction is not ergonomic.
Or could just make a table of some sorts to use something called a laptop. The thing 99.9% of people would use with a setup like this. Its aggravating that they dont do battery drain tests with one instead always using a pc rig with their portable battery tests.
@@creaturecore13 my guy I believe they are actively trying to make this as absurdly complicated and advanced as possible
yeh ,who needs back window vision anyway ?
@@kolbyf3352 real men never reverse
I am so glad that Linus finished the "strapping young man" pun.
Jake's response was perfect dad joke.
i think a setup like this would be better to play with gamepad rather than keyboard and mouse specially with small moving headroom in the mini van
hey
@@EnergeticSpark63 hi
@@el-3omda476 hey
@@EnergeticSpark63 hi
@@el-3omda476 hey
i would just buy a few steam decks for my kids but i guess this works to lol
Those would be less costly and way easier. IIRC the power box was 8600.
True and Linus also highly recommend Steam Deck but as he mentioned in the intro he wanted to try this for years and both Linus and Jake acknowledge how silly and dumb this thing is by the end of the video. But it makes for fun content, so it's all worth it, I guess. Haha
@@Adlata why tf are you here if you're so whingy and hate content like this? he's always done crazy stuff like this so idk why you're being such a cunt.
no i was just joking around lol.
@@Adlata go touch grass. this is a fun project which happens to be sponsored. I can totally see linus do something like this without the sponsor
This is amazing, I remember in '98 our family got a minivan with a small flip down screen w/ DVD player in the back. Always tried to get the NES to work in there, but never did. Now I'm 30, and you can put a whole PC in there. So cool + nostalgia factor.
You have been able to put a pc in your van for years….. it called a gaming Laptop
I also have the same memory of playing a wii in the back of the minivan on family road trips. We used one of those tiny 9-10 inch CRT/VCR combo TV units and hooked it up via component video. I thought it was so cool as a kid. This is just on another level.
PlayStation 1 and GameCube on an Orion TV/VCR combo for me. The pinnacle of luxury.
Same here lol, though Linus is right about the accelerometer getting messed with the car's speed so we usually played game cube games in the car only.
We had lcds mini tvs that fit on the back of chairs and could be daisy chained for multiplayer
@@connorstevenson3935 Once before I was carpooling in a minivan for a four-hour trip; seatback in front of me had a slot to put your phone or tablet to watch movies, so naturally I instead put my Switch in the slot and played only motion games (aisle seat, nobody was annoyed in the writing of this comment). Worked like a dream.
"Modest in terms of spec"
19:40
AMD Epyc, 256GB of Ram, and a 3080ti
Yeah okay Linus. Alright.
When it is a family story you know Jake is cohosting
Im surprised Dan didnt make an appearance.
@@ThaBootyBandit Daddy Dan. :D
I’m seeing the pattern here
Jake, the unofficial 7th child of Linus and Yvone.
This is insane, looking forward to part 2 and 3.
I just keep my steamdeck in my backpack when driving my chevy volt and play some games when im parked for a long time.
What i would like to see if a portable charger ev solution that can be kept in your car with solar panels and can probably provide like 10 miles or so with emergency charge.
This man is a genius. He gets sponsored to make these videos that directly help him, and then he gets another ~$2k from ad revenue. Even though he spent a ton on tech he still net profited from this video. Amazing. I love you Linus.
well... he did kind of tax rebate his new house with all the videos on it's setup...
at this point, Jake is basically just the Sebastian family's personal tech handyman with linus being his overseer.
Can’t wait to see what suspension upgrades you do in the vid for the weight, also add a fuse before you get to any though points of the chassis in case something shorts. And don’t attach to the chassis for ground. Use the alternator ground, for example an eyelet through the mounting bolt.
This is a dream job. Imagine your boss walks in one day and goes “Hey! Let’s put two gaming PCs in my minivan!”
You work for a Bezos boss !
Uhhhhh have you seen there normal work day hahaha
Source of energy is important. Fossil fuel is the worst source. Electric vehicle is pointless if the source energy is coal, gas, oil.
The dream would be if your boss goes ‘let’s put to gaming PCs in yóur van’, though.
@@fynkozari9271 True, but there are very few powergrids that exclusively use fossil fuels anymore. France produces 70% of their energy from Nuclear, and Germany has to pay other countries to take their wind power in the winter because the turbines produce more energy than they can use.
i don’t even want to imagine the amount of pain it will be to get rear ended.
Insurance will probably cover it
@@Random_dud31 I'd be more concerned with the lithum batteries catching fire. Wonder if those things are designed to resist impacts, like electric car batteries
@@atoth91 They're lifepo4 batteries, so all good.
@@Random_dud31 Depends what coverage you get as not all car insurance covers your own in car valuables and some have a limit to the value of those valuables aswell
@@atoth91 They are LiFePO4
This takes mobile gaming to a whole new level.
It's not mobile gaming. In technicality maybe, but if you can't pick up your screen and go somewhere with your peripherals, without having to worry about batteries or computers, it's not mobile.
@Mawk zuckabewg are you really gonna make the case for this being a good mobile gaming solution? What about if you're in a waiting room? Gonna lug your PC and a giant battery in with you? Technicalities are dumb in this case.
@@LindonSlaght So Steam deck is a mobile?
@@mugwithnocoffee2572 I would say so yes. It's battery powered, and realistic to carry around, and can fit in a backpack. So I think it fits the bill.
@Mawk zuckabewg sorry
A/C in a car is usually comparable to central cooling in a medium house, due to the poor insulation and huge windows in cars. 600w power draw on a PC won't touch the A/C in the car.
Wow, didn't think it will use that much current. But I know that it affects the power of the car on lower powered ones, and 745W = 1 HP, so I guess it can consume several HP if the car feels slower after it is activated.
@@Raress96 it’s a Honda odyssey it can’t get any slower lol
@@weebboi2039 will not stand for Honda Odyssey slander
@@weebboi2039 they’re actually pretty quick I think that one makes about 180hp
@@achilleaustin4477 180 hp and 5000 lbs is slow asf bro. My 10 year old Volvo makes 227 and weighs half of that and that car is faster than most but not a race car by any means
Expanding on what Jake was saying, an alternator is designed to replenish the battery's energy after accounting for Starting, Lights and Ignition - that's what SLI stands for when referring to an SLI battery. While using an alternator to power additional high load may still fit within it's "specifications", it will dramatically shorten it's lifespan as alternators are not expected to sustain huge currents for long periods of time. Long term, definitely go with that larger alternator!
I probably woulda just put a steam deck dock + monitor in the car and called it a day.
that's a pretty good idea ngl.
Though you could probably power it from the car directly, so this whole thing with batteries would be irrelevant.
It is SOOO touching to see Linus with his family, when you've been a subscriber for a decade & saw this channel build up to what is is now, truly amazing & much much deserved!
So we GAME and RC, a VERB now..... any days, we modded our family 1992 CHEVY G20 Van camper into a BUDGET "overland gaming exploration vehicle". We personally achieved our power requirements by utilizing the x2 HARBOR FREIGHT 100watt solar kits, paired with cheapo AGM deep cell packs, and a JUPITER 1000watt inverter. i know very little, and require little recharge power in comparison, but has been a SPECTACULAR investment for our particular "over the road adventure" needs. Mat be a MUCH cheaper option, also significantly less performance... Great content and keep up the great work!!!
This is awesome but IMO I'd rather just get a couple Stem Decks or Switches and plug a power inverter into the cigarette lighter to charge them on long road trips for a much cheaper cost, but this setup could easily power a PS5 or Series S/X for a several hours since they cap out around 200-300W but IMO is nowhere near the cost investment unless you were using it to actually live in a vehicle.
Its worth it for youtube content, not because his kids actually need 3 ultra quality cyberpunk able gaming rigs in a van. Steam deck or switch is already perfect for that use case for average people
@@dscarmo Yeah that's why I posted it with IMO because I realize it's sponsored and a cool product but for nearly 10k+ it's not for the average viewer who could easily just buy a Steam Deck or gaming Laptop that lasts just as long for much less investment.
It's very cool but I would not purchase it unless it was under $2k, I realize they'll probably sell a ton after this video but I replied so maybe a few people will see and realize that it's a bad idea both for the alternator's longevity and the viewers wallet.
Well that's what the channel's for. For us to live vicariously through their overpowered and impractical setups.
You're pretty much statin the obvious. It's a cool project to be able to make a video out of it to be honest.
@jimadiah powers from alternator?
These steam deck alternatives are getting out of control ;)
Are you serious right neow?
Young Linus: Rotate the screen to download faster
Adult Linus: Step on the gas harder to charge faster
😂😂😂😂
Linus looks happier lately, good for you buddeh!
You guys should do the ultimate tech worker/developer/tech enthusiast VAN LIFE build. Would buy floatplane to watch in depth tutorials on that.
Same, we need to get enough likes so that LTT sees this.
This series better be continued. I haven't been this excited for a LTT series since whole room water cooling
You know, after seeing this I have more appreciation for my Steam Deck only doing one and a half hours of battery with Cyberpunk.
Lfp battery chemistry has very nice charge discharge cycle count compared to li-ion I believe 3, 000 to 80% but sometimes there are LFP batteries that are 6,000 cycles to 80% capacity which is a lot I've charged discharge cycles
Car gaming is specifically why I liked my Lenovo Y50 gaming laptop back in the day. Playing Witcher 3 and Skyrim in the car was a blast. Now there are HANDHELD ways to do that exact same thing...or there's this option too lol. The shot of Linus with the keyboard on his lap and the monitor "visually attached" right to it just reminded me super hard of my laptop gaming days.
I've used an Ecoflow River Pro setup when camping way out in the woods before. It's an absolute godsend for watching movies at night with an LED projector.
I can't wait to see where this series goes, and what Yvonne's reaction to all this will be...
This is exactly the kind of shenanigans I was expecting when I was subscribing years ago, thank you for putting out a lot weird projects such as this one
I do love the fact that this Power Kit is pretty simple in terms of install and use. I am loving that console.
Next video: MY ALTERNATOR DIED ON OUR ROADTRIP
Or
On Wan show: "remember when the alternator in my van died on our road trip?"
For the 120v 30 amp, you should have shown the NEMA TT-30R connector which is what RVs use. Campground plugs offer the NEMA 14-50 (210/240 volt 30-50 amp), NEMA TT-30R (120 volt 30 amp) and also a standard wall outlet (NEMA 5-15). Other connector types can be found at marinas ("marine shore power" - a.k.a. NEMA SS1-50 or SS2-50), but these are much less common. Minivan + trip + kids = RV campground so as I said - NEMA 5-15 or TT-30 or 14-50. (note: TT-30R is the "receptacle" while the TT-30P is the "plug" - helps to know when googling these things.)
There isn't a scenario in the world, where Linus is going to park his minivan at a campsite in an RV spot.
@@littlejackalo5326 yeah neither would I. better just add level 2 chagring plug. So when you got to run in some where and just leave them gaming in the car. This is where an Tesla or EV would work much better. Kinda wish they made a EV mini van.
"something more modest in terms of spec"
*proceeds to have a CPU more expensive and faster than my car and a GPU that can move more air than my ceiling fan*
They mean more modest than the test rig, not that the test rig is the modest one
i really like being car sick and this would really kick it up a notch lol
It's so kind of Linus to give his kids gaming rigs for in-car entertainment! Wouldn't want Jake to get bored when driving him to work
The cars lights will stop flickering or flicker less if you connect the charging system for the batteries to the cars battery instead of the alternator! You just need to make sure to have a relay that shuts power off to the batteries when the car is shut off. Don’t want to kill your car’s battery :) 👍 11:39
Just needs a isolator
The alternator kit will have a split-charge relay in it that will make sure it's not draining the battery.
All the dad puns in this just made the video that much better 😂😂❤
You guys should really utilize your engineering team to advise on things like wiring your car alternator to a battery system (hint: fuses), so that you don’t burn down your car, house, etc.
Linus's kids are so lucky, hopefully they understand what their dad does for them!
This is like every adult’s dream as a kid lol.
Linus, want another kid? I’ll pretend to be one. Just tell the neighbors I was 30 years overdue and drank lots of milk 🤷🏻♀️ they’ll never know
Idk, if you know car mechanics, they're basically building a death trap and he's inviting his kids to be in it..
19:58 Uncensored Linus is a rare sight to behold
Glad someone else noticed lol
I feel like the holidays had an effect on the editing. The bloopers inside the video were fun but they were less polished than usually. That might explain how it got past the QC. Linus sweared in the last WAN show as well because the swear buttons didn't work due to the power outage.
This entire setup is amazing, but at 20:55, seeing Linus with a setup that is basically just an unstable laptop, makes me think they could have just used laptops to game in there the entire time...
Especially since the power kit was like $8k
That's a pretty amazing piece of kit you have there. Would be very nice when deployed in an actual motorhome or camping van to run lights, fridge, stove, etc. Although personally I would prefer the independent components (MPPT, inverter, DC charger, etc.) separate instead of all in one as this unit, since if any individual part breaks you can replace only that one part, instead of having to rip out the entire unit and replace it. But for ease of use and installation this is amazing, everything plug and play and just goes together with no hassles since doing something like this DIY is not as easy as you make it look. Although if I were you I would put a fuse on the live wire running from the alternator to your trunk, since that's a fire waiting to happen.
One thing I thought of is the batteries are in the crumple zone if your van we're to be rear ended it might be smart to move them but it really doesn't matter
Imagine rear-ending some fucking soccer mom van and it just fucking explodes
@@Jisifus 💀
oh... that was your thought? And here I was thinkg about the 300lb of weight added to the very back of the vehicle.
@@pmp1337closer to 50/50 weight distribution
@@Jisifus LMAO 😂
I added a Jellyfin laptop server and Wifi using a pure sine wave inverter. One kid gets 2.4 ghz and the other gets the 5ghz band on their tablets.
Also, if you do wifi, local coop on Steamdecks becomes possible (just get some padding for them).
Linus the gamer girl
thanks for the likes :D
No wonder I am hard
Heil linus
Yes
What even is this thread
based linus
For the gaming PC's I'd use an AMD RX 6600XT and Ryzen 7 7800X, with the GPU undervolted to 0.8v and the CPU to 0.9v. This will reduce total system power to just a little above 100 watts while providing very solid gaming performance at 1080p and enabling you to cool the system passively, something that would be very nice to have in a dusty and cramped car.
But what if they somehow attached a (relatively) small radiator in front of the car radiator and made a super long liquid cooled loop for the PC(s). I feel like that is ripe for issues but if protected properly, it could work and could fit on some larger GPU like a 3070 or 6800 XT without having to worry about thermals. Probably want a quick disconnect system for it so that replacing a GPU and its block doesn't involve draining the loop.
@@sw33t.angela Whole car watercooling? this is a wonderful awful idea that needs to be made into part 3 of this
@@ryankulp2073 I don't think that tapping into the engine's cooling system is a good idea. The heat carried from the engine is much hotter than what the PC components put out. Also different metals from the blocks may cause issues with accidentally creating a battery, especially with aluminum in the cooling system.
@@sw33t.angela in a standard form thats correct. I have faith the linus team could figure something out. Also antifreeze has lots of anti corrosives in it so i dont think thered be any issues with cross material effects
I love how Linus has remained such a normal guy during these years. Still in the mindset of saving on gas and being a bit of a cheapskate when he has one of the most influencial tech channels on youtube! Always makes me smile :)
Those are talking points. You don't know the person you watch in a TH-cam video.
I would mount the control display to the sun visor
The wiring would be an issue though, and it would be more noticeable.
@@XLStressjust run the cables up the a pillar, there’s already wires going up there for the mirror light or like garage openers
I always wanted to see something like this done it is really cool concept
glad to see a working version of it
Darnit, LTT forgot about this project...
In WAN show, Linus just mentioned it, Harrison the writer isn't at LMG anymore so apparently it needed a new writer.
Water cool the PCs using the vehicle's existing cooling system? Maybe even the A/C for sub-zero 🙂
Water in a car cooling system will be over a hundred degrees at times so that probably is not the most effective method.
As someone who lives off grid fully and runs an r7 5800 x and rx 6800xt on my batteries daily I can reliably say that is extremely overpriced.
Love your gyutar vuds
Looks like a very sleek and smart solution though, which is what you're paying for. How many different parts did you require to get that set up?
They pay for their time not spent on integration and setup. Some people prefer to pay for the convenience instead of spending their time. There's market for everyone.
I have ecoflow batteries for my garage with no power and you are paying for the packaging and convenience. I paid 2k for 3kwh of capacity and while I could have built something myself cheaper and with higher capacity it would not be nearly as convenient to move to charge. Everything is self contained and I can carry both battery units at once which is important since I need to charge inside my apartment.
linus's face at 20:20 is priceless
Where's Part 2? We need a gaming Uber!
Make sure that you put a big fuse between the alternator (or the start of the cable, if going to the battery) and the power lead to the ecoflow delta, to ensure that if there is a short on the cable in the car, the power is cut to the cable to prevent electrical fires. 😉
WOW!!! Xzibit and Big Dane has change so much, i can barely recognize them!!!
PIMP MY RIDE
"Yo, dawg..."
For Video 2, you should show how you can use this to power your hours in case of an outage, and maybe see if you can make the tesla do it too. The new F150 electric truck can do it, and would be a good reason to bring back your favorite electrician.
I love how Jake makes Linus throw even more caution to the wind than he would normally do! 👍🐸 Start it, just start it...
Love this video so much! Cars + computers are two of my favorite topics.
I’d definitely recommend connecting to the battery with a fuse/relays instead of the alternator though! With car electronics it’s always better to have more safety.
Can’t wait for part 2!
That would cause too much current going through the stock alternator wire and most likely cause worse issues like excess heat melting the insulation off of the stock alternator wire which isn't very large this is like adding a 5,000watt amplifer you don't just connect it to the battery and everything is good to go you need to upgrade the alternator and add thicker gauge wires to the entire curcuit so it can handle more current
LTT with the car build, in multiple parts! What parallel universe is this?!? Lol
I hope you guys bought an alternator from a good builder. Mechman has always been good to me. Although, I have a custom 425 amp unit from BrandX Electrical now.
KEEP PART 2 ALIVE
When I was growing up, there was no gaming in the car. You sat there and stayed quiet. Or you had a sleep, that was it.
This is an interesting video, but I would NOT want two HEAVY 37.7 Ibs (17.1 kg) batteries and that 31 lbs (14 kg) power hub just sitting loose in the back of my minivan in the case of a serious crash. The batteries and power hub will become deadly projectiles. The webbing straps and mounting hardware are not going to keep those pieces from coming loose from the plywood, and even if they do stay attached to the plywood, the whole plywood base is not secured to anything in the vehicle so the whole assembly could easily get dislodged from the back of the minivan in a crash. The physics of a moderate to high-speed automobile crash are usually not in your favor even with modern safety designs, and you put yourself in even more dire circumstances when you have two heavy batteries and the power hub potentially bouncing around in the cabin during a crash. The whole batter/power hub assembly in the back cargo area of the vehicle could also potentially negatively affect the integrity/design of the rear crumple zone of the vehicle, which is designed to dissipate energy in a crash to protect the occupants that are sitting forward of the rear crumple zone. There are already 2,5000+ comments so I'm sure nobody will ever see this, but just my two cents!
dw it'll dissipate energy just fine if theres a rear impact - the energy in the batteries will dissipate all over the place
Bro wrote a whole paragraph for something that is pre production and they will have to send back 💀
sitting loose? lol
Exactly my thoughts
yeah the plywood isn’t attached to anything and if a crash happens all that mass in free to move. The straps surely can hold the batteries in place but e.g. Driving 60mph and crashing will make that whole rig have force of up to 1300kg moving freely in the trunk. No seat can hold that back and passangers are gonna get squashed.
I believe you should have installed a Compacitor between the Alternator and battery pack thats probably why your Lights are flickering I like my stereo systems and when I do my Subs I always add an Extra Battery and a Compacitor to stop my lights from dimming and Flickering everytime the Bass Hits
Not really sure the capacitor would help much. It helps with bass amps since it only pulls a lot of power when the bass hits, then has time to recharge. On a constant load, I don't really know if it would make a difference. I usually run big stuff off a completely separate alternator from the one powering the car's computer now, since I've had trouble with the engine shutting off when the extra crap pulls a bunch of power and makes the voltage fluctuate and my ECU would reset.
Edit: That was on older OBD1 cars though. Maybe the newer ones are less sensitive to that.
*capacitor. And it helps with extremely short periods of voltage drop, which is OK for music. I think a coil would do better to keep a steady current for lights and it's easier and cheaper to get a higher inductance rather than a higher capacitance.
He needs a isolator not a capacitor
Capacitors are not necessary. I have an 8000+ watt system and my lights don't dim at all. As long as your battery bank is big enough and your alternator is big enough and you have proper wiring you won't have dimming issues.
That ground wire he used is way too long and not thick enough
Adding that to your alternator will use up quite a bit more fuel, depending on charge, and changing to a bigger alternator again will use up more fuel. It is more expensive to charge the eco flow with fuel then to just use electric
I think they were more focused on speed of filling more gas compared to how long it would take to charge
"we're not going to try a 4090" me being immediately disappointed. I was expecting just that. I mean come on.. it's LTT!
Batteries wouldn't even last till the corner shop :D
We want LTT not a lit up linus. Thats the last thing you want.
They're trying to build a somewhat functional system that can last for a decent bit during a road trip. Putting 4090s would be stupid, regardless if it's "LTT"...
@@tim3172 remember, thats for 1 system not 2 or 3 playing the same game back there
Hey LTT, I love your videos and would really love an updated video on couch gaming options for PC users. My Corsair lapboard is driving me crazy and the Razer Turret is too small. I'd love to get a fresh take on your guys' perspective and maybe see some DIY options? Thank you regardless!
For the PCs I would get some industrial grade fanless ones. Put Steam OS big picture and Xbox controllers. Done!
there are some non-industrial ones that have fans barely noticeable. fanless is a decent idea, but they generally don't perform well when it comes to modern gaming. I've seen one mini-pc that has a ryzen 7 mobile processor and the youtuber showed how powerful it is for a unit that uses something around 100w or less (if i remember correctly). I believe asus makes it but I'm not quite sure.
The energy and banter in this video.
You can tell that that was a good day to be at work :D
IMAGINE THE SMELL of a gaming van
more like the look of one... prob look like the typical anime's hikikomori's room...
doritos , mountain dew, sweat and balls
i have been thinking how cool something like this would be for a long time. a full gaming set up for long road trips would be awesome!
I have a 9 kWh system (this setup is 4 kWh) in my van, and love it. I am in the process of mounting a Thunderbolt eGPU so I can plug in my laptop in and game. I've already done several road trips running lots of devices and it's been great.
It's cool but not really that practical, using a portable device and just plugging it into the existing electrical system will get you most of the way there and it can even leave the vehicle if you want.
@@PsRohrbaugh i would recomeend not using an egpu as it can be very gitchy and slow in some games and in lowe resolution
Also if you live somewhere with bad storms and the power goes out you can just pull the whole thing out and bring it in your house for power.
If you have your breaker box set up and a generator inlet in the garage then I assume you could just open the trunk of the car / side door and run the cable directly to the inlet without actually removing the setup and while leaving the car in the garage (or moving it to your driveway for the solar panels / active charging on idle). When my neighborhood loses power my neighbor runs his house off his truck.
@@dbaird337 I was just commenting on the removable aspect of it.
Linus: "hey! it's fired up!"
Harrison: "Yes, it does that."
😂😂😂
I'm thinking about van life, this looks like such an easy solution to the problems that come with the electrical
It is. I have electrical in my truck and it was WAY more work to set up and is way less technical (but was prob less money).
that is exactly the kind of thing this was designed for. I use one of them in my boat and it makes my life much easier.
lol we didn't see the price tag
I would love you to take an idea of making it like a small van for an average travel videographer that wants to edit his videos and his video games in his small car or a small van, or maybe something like that for all the guys that live and life or want to go into Vanlife, you may just make van life possible for someone like me a tech junkie
there are already tons of dedicated channels for this. LTT wouldn't really do it service. You can just go watch one of the hundreds of electrical engineers that have videos on this.
This is a genuinely feasible ides
well, theyve already kinda did this in a previous vanlife video.
so... i guess part two is in our imagination?
I had a Wii in my parents SUV for 7 years and it was the most fun gaming experience I've ever had. While driving to school 4-5 of my friends carpooled since it was a 30 minute drive. We played New Super Mario Bros and I logged probably 1000+ hours over that time. The Wii was plugged into an inverter and we used the built in DVD player in the car. The sensor bar was just wedged in the headrest of the front seat and it worked well enough. That also showed that Wiis are built like tanks since it sat underneath the rear seat with basically no cooling and no maintenance and bounced down the road for probably 100,000 miles.