Elevator Brackets for Your Deer Blind - Explained
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- I explain the purpose of elevator brackets which includes the cost and other things you should consider when trying decide whether or not you need to use them to elevate your deer hunting box blind.
Summit Outdoors Elevator Brackets on Amazon:
www.amazon.com...
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Usually don't bite into things like this, but this dude does really know his shit.
Have built numerous box blinds and never used them. That said, it’s preferable to be near trees to use as anchor points! Last stand I built is 14 feet high without legs! I like it, it’s less noticeable and was easy to build by scissoring the base between two trees!
Sounds like a good way to go with trees in the right place. Thanks for watching & commenting!
To protect the brackets. Use roofing tar 1 Gal. Just keeps the weather off the hardware.
My suggestion for tying down a deer blind, use a mobile home anchoring auger. Directly in the center of the blind pulling straight down. Take 2 loops of slick wire and twist like you were tightening an H-brace on a fence.
That's a great suggestion & a great method 👍🏻
Im building a 6x8 with a set of these and was wondering if i use 8' post how much height am i losing with the angle of the brackets?
I don't know the math on that, but my guess is about 6 inches.
@@UncleBucks thank you
I would agree the higher end brackets (Summit Outdoors) is the way to go. Don't cut cost on the major item that will support the blind. Thanks for sharing!
I'm switching from pop-up ground blind to a raised platform blind. Question I have, Do I need to angle cut the 4x4's at thr ground. I will be using elevator brackets also
@PaulGoliath-v1f Younreally don't. The corners will settle in a bit, but it's not a problem. Make sure to put the factory treated ends of the 4x4s down and the cut ends up (if uou cut them), so that the treated end is in contact with the ground.
@@UncleBucks thank you
Its not hard to level up a site for the posts a level ,a long strsight edge, and some commone sense
Im on 12ft legs ,with elevator brackets, used eye bolts through the brackets, a cable through them down to a earth anchor on each corner drilled into the ground ,installed a turn buckel with antisieze on the threads
One thing that helps the wind go around the blind is tho build it as a octogon mines oblong ,has been up with 75 mph winds ,
Yes sir, I've done that on a gentle slope just as you described. Anything moderate to steep slope, I'm setting poles in the ground. Just my opinion after 35 years of setting up dozens of them. Lots of ways to anchor them. The method you described is a good one.
elevator brackets are the cheaper part of a blind. Not worth fretting over the $89. materials like real doors/windows and labor at $50-$100/hour is where the cost is or maybe labor is not worth anything?😉
Brett I have use them since about the late 90's still holding strong.....
Good to know, thanks for commenting!
Are you still working on another box blind video?? Thought you were making another design. Really enjoy your videos keep them coming 👍
Thanks. I am working on a hexagon box blind build video, but summer work and project prorities have taken over, so it is on hold. It's about 2/3 done but it'll be a good month at least before I get to it and get the video put together. It's very time consuming and extra time is short in supply this summer!
@@UncleBucks lumber prices don't help either I'm sure 😭. I'm looking forward to it 👍
What diameter of steel cable do you use? 1/8” or 1/4”?
I use 1/8" and I feel it is adequate.
Thanks Brett!👍😎
Inevitable happen. Tower down, cut off legs to use quickly. Can elevator bracket be installed now. Will need to remake the ladder too. 6x5 stand. Thanks.
Sorry to hear. As long as you have exposed rim joists, you should be able to install an elevator bracket in each corner, no matter what size your blind is.
What if its mounted to an end joist, instead of a rim joist? Just kidding 😅😅😂
What's the first steps in putting in the post in the ground? Do I dig post out and then put cross braces on the post before attaching the framing for platform?
Chris, assuming you are not using elevator brackets, Ive found that setting your posts first, then attaching the platform framing before (permanently) cross bracing works better so you can still adjust your posts a little if you need to. Be careful though, especially if you are 8 feet or higher. You'll find that you will have to put some temporary cross bracing on if you are using 4x4s as posts. Once your platform is built, shore it all up and then fasten cross bracing permanently.
I'm using the string method and a spirit level to level all my posts. It's kinda a pain in the ass lol. I'm going to build more platforms so need to figure out a more efficient way
@@UncleBucks Brett, how do you know where to dig the post holes for a 10 ft stand when you're using angled brackets? And how much weight will those angled brackets hold? Thanks
@@njgrplr2007 it probably wouldnt be neccesary to dig holes if you are using elevator brackets. I relocated this stand from another property so I knew how far apart the legs were on level ground, so I was able to dig down a little on the high side to have level ground for all 4 legs. If you have uneven terrain, I recommend setting posts/legs (level) in holes 3 feet or more and skip using the brackets. It's still a good idea to anchor it either way.
The Shadow Hunter "Elevator" brackets are good quality and I think your wood legs or platform would fail (from excess weight) long before the brackets ever did.