Back on the farm in NE Okla, we had a similar terrain and lots of field stone. Grandpa took four foot cattle fence wire. Rapped it twice in two diameter circle. Filled the circle of fence wire with the field stone. Made great 'post' for hanging the wire around, through the woods. Do believe the are still there, almost 80 years.
I've seen this in Eastern WA too. My childhood home had a year-round non-flooding creek. There were a couple of spots along the bank that this had been done to prevent erosion.
I use the board option all the time, from timber lags I back out a little ever few years, to ratchet straps on the sugar maples we tap. It works well for corner post
I am thinking on expanding my horse pasture line down into the woods, but do not want to damage the trees. I have seen or heard about the board method, and then forgotten about it, so thank you for the reminder!
I've used lumber to preserve the tree (my great uncle did that a lot). I have also used an old water hose as an insulator to run the electric fence wire thru then around the tree (at a corner). We use a single nail to keep it from sliding up or down the tree.
due to the 10 to $12 cost per tee post i have used small puplar trees 2 to 6" and cut them off at 6 feet, i used the big trees for the corners, but i use screws so i can back them out as the big tree grows, i use this for both my pigs and cows, steers, heifers, i follow were the trees are witch is not hard to stay farly strait due to how thick there are, i have to use a few tee post here and there but not many, and i have miles of fence, i use a ;ot of peaces of 1" pex pipe for stand off corner insulators, drill a hole in each end, corner insulaters are not cheap
Troy weather you believe me or don't doesn't matter to me, I at least got it off my chest. I only had five acres with house included in this rockpile and mud combow I lived on so thinking ahead, cut some willow that the size of my little ones wrist, used a few things. Measured out landlines, then got measured straight line areas laid out then with my post driver made small holes in the straight lines and stuck the willow shoots/limbs in the ground that year with some water around each one where ground was a bit dry and did it in the corner I figured on. I did have some trees here and there but very few and they were large good trees to not be hurt hopefully. I wanted to come back to my plants/tree shoots that following year but my round to it got in the way but wife on her very own checked them and kept watering them since it was a team job back then as she got board and would invent things to keep her happy like picking berries off the brambles. We lived on bottom land close near the river and a creek and so it was nice there for uncleared ground cept for house lot of space and that was about it and then the driveway which went this and that to get around obstructions like a big boulder an stuff. We were going on the third year as we did get my small pole shop building kinda up... not much on the sides except some posts that collected litter. A roof was the biggy as the snow working on my little dump truck was miserable in deep snow. I finally got back to a guy I bought some pigs from, not many but four or five, don't remember and he told me they tasted good and when I was serious to come around and I couldn't fault him for that. We, wife an I went walking our brush pile and she showed me those shoots again and now they were firm growing trees about three inches or so but lots of them an I was surprised how well they grew along with fresh shoots that volunteered. I will shorten this a bit by saying we did string wire on insulators on those posts but it wasn't working so well as what was only a foot off the ground when put there, was almost two foot above and dad did save me there. Since willow is good for shoots, we cut our shoots off at about five to six feet. then on the back side, made a axe cut into them and stuck a shoot into it to keep it alive and not rotting off. I believe we had a hundred percent success but make a liar out of me for a dime. Those stumps got bigger but not much taller and it really worked well.
We have used old garden hose to go around tree but also to use as an insulator in a "V" shape out from the tree. The rubber hose can handle the pressure from different directions that a small plastic insulator and if you a farm/homestead there is always a busted hose some where.
I’ve done the same as what you do. I’ve done the boards on really nice good quality trees other trees. I don’t worry about it at all. I’ve even given up on insulators now and just use fence staples and go right to the tree. I found absolutely no voltage drop in my phone’s charger doing that Takes a long time to kill a tree also if at all I mean I see a wire that’s in giant trees around here that is probably 70 or 80 years old and the trees look healthy. You wouldn’t wanna put a chainsaw to them at that heights obviously like to see if you did a follow up video on the stuff, cause it’s good to see somebody trying to fence through the woods like I do great video
I just made a fence today screwed to trees . I made a vedeo off it . Sofar so good I used long screws so I can back off my insulators every year as the trees get bigger
When I cross fenced my farm, I put in metal because I wanted the more or less permanence (no fence is permanent) of a metal fence. I also want a straight line on boundaries to prevent subsequent issues of adverse possession by subsequent neighbors. As I ran paddocks off the perimeter fence and cross fence, I used trees. For the readers that think this is ecological destruction, please tell me which is better: 1. I use a tree or 2. I cut the tree down to place a metal post. But it is not that simple how much does the environment suffer, in the mining, manufacturing, transportation of the metal (or non-metal) posts?
The number one commodity on a farm is money...….use the trees...…..if done correctly as stated in various ways in the other replies, fence poles were always reserved for areas with no trees. We had a modern horse, the 4 wheeler,..it had fence pliers a left over partial roll of wire...nails,staples and various bits of old and broken insulators.....mount up every few days and run the fence line....look for problems and take care of them and fix broken areas. I really enjoyed running the fence line, got to check out the property, relax....have my coffee and feel productive...…..
Troy when I grew up on the farm we used way more trees than posts but we also cut alot of locust off the farm for posts saving money. I have seen locust post last for 30 to 50 years wish I had a Nickol for all the post I help cut and split. So yes definitely take every advantage, all the esthetic looks really doesn't matter when on the back 40 as they say so what if it's crooked the deer won't complain nor will the pigs, cows or horses. Just saying
I will use trees on my fencing adventure. I have a zillion 3-6 inch pines to make a perfect fence line and Pasture. Only thing I will do is use 2×4 blocks to secure onto and use shallow nails to attach to tree.
Screw eyes aren't going to kill a tree donut insulators handle weird directional tension well extra wire versus post wire is always cheaper and with 100 to 150 trees per acre just don't mill trees you've attached to. Personally I like the organic lines created by using trees.
Greetings from rural northeastern California! Today I discovered your channel. I had been watching Wranglerstar's video about his new Honda Pioneer. Then I was clicking around to see more such presentations. I stoped at yours -- the one where Honda couldn't get you a snow blade. That is as far as I got. I like the way you present things. I like hearing no profane or blasphemous language. And I think I am going to like learning about your place and what you are doing with it. I am a lifelong Westerner. Except when we lived 3.5 years in Monmouth County, NJ. (That was for caregiving. G'ma & G'p were in their 90s.) So, where are you? Do I detect a NY license plate on your truck? I have had friends and inlaws who lived in NY State. Am I close? Although I have done many things in life I have been an arborist since the mid 80s. I am impressed with your tree knowledge. In fact I think you know about compartmentalization. Let's talk about your corner tree you may have talked yourself into, I think you said. Two things come to mind. •First is that vine on the tree. Vines are not good for trees. As it spirals up it may choke the trunk. It may grow into the trunk like the wire you showed us. And/or if it is bushy enough up in the crown it may starve the crown of sunlight. •I would not expect the vertical boards, if attached to the tree, to grow out with the diameter increase through the years. If a good installation job is done the board will stay. And the tree will encompass it. Or plural, them. And if the boards rot first... well you know the rest. And you will stil have hardware in the tree again. My sister married into a ranch family in our corner of the state. They have a kind of fencepost they make. I can't remember what they call it. But anyway they take some field fencing, with say 4"x 6" wire spacing. They make a cylinder of it. 2' to 3' diameter and place it upright. Then it is filled with rocks. These are amazingly durable. I see them mid fence and at corners. What do you think of that? Well thanks for sharing about your place. I have subscribed and look forward to lesrning more. Michael Dougfir In California.
Michael Dougfir I’ve seen those “pilings” when I lived in the Bend Oregon area... I think they are super durable, but I think they are used in areas when you can’t get a post in the ground due to rock or a hard pan layer. I’m from the east coast, it’s nice to have lived in different areas to see how things are done to accomplish the same end result. I think they are called “gabions”.
I do if its super expedient. Sometimes trees *are* in the way of a straight line. But generally I avoid it. The few times Ive done it years ago I now see that as the plastic insulator is absorbed by the tree , it shorts out and makes a difficult short to find. And it gets worse over time.
Thank you ! I've been searching for that kind of information for months and all I could find was fencing tips from cattle farmers in the Midwest. I really appreciated your research and concerns (which I share). I heard about using bike tube, do you think it will sink in the bark too ?
On my property the answer is NO. But I also rent out large parts of my property and don't want them to decide so it's much easier to just make it an absolute rule.
So, you need to use 2 boards vs 1 (if you sink the post into the ground), vs 0 (if you put the insulators nailed into the tree. Options 1 and 3 both have you putting a nail or screw into the tree, but option 3 costs a lot less. Just put the insulators in the tree and save time and money. Option 2 is even better that option 1.
Trees can surprise you. You want to use a tree for a post and drive one nail or screw in a lag and it dies. Most times it does no harm. Personally I would not use a tree, if possible I would move the corner 20-30’ away, it’s easier to use a real and shorten a paddock than to expand one. If funding provides you can use a timeless corner system, they are guaranteed for 20 years. One less point for a ground fault, the corner is permanent, no worries about interfering with the production of your tree, you don’t have to worry about the tension on your wire. For permanent fencing make your corners and braces permanent, everything in between can be temporary post till you have time and funds to replace with a more permanent solution. Some years trees grow faster than expected and snap wires. How much time do you have dedicated to checking fence?
As I mentioned in other comments. Putting insulators on trees dosnt hurt the tree if the fence is maintained. All that's needed is once a year you go around and reset each insulator . Now if you just stick up fence and forget it that isn't good but also is lazy farming. Maintain fence and nailing to trees is not ever a problem.
I would not attach anything other than insulators, repurposed garden hose, or boards to trees, no wires directly on the tree... BTW fencing staples are shaped kinda sorta like horseshoes. "Horseshoe nails" are a specific type of nail, used to attach shoes to horse's hooves. Worthless for fencing applications.
Back on the farm in NE Okla, we had a similar terrain and lots of field stone. Grandpa took four foot cattle fence wire. Rapped it twice in two diameter circle. Filled the circle of fence wire with the field stone. Made great 'post' for hanging the wire around, through the woods. Do believe the are still there, almost 80 years.
A Moore never heard of that, good idea.
I've seen this in Eastern WA too.
My childhood home had a year-round non-flooding creek. There were a couple of spots along the bank that this had been done to prevent erosion.
I use the board option all the time, from timber lags I back out a little ever few years, to ratchet straps on the sugar maples we tap. It works well for corner post
I am thinking on expanding my horse pasture line down into the woods, but do not want to damage the trees. I have seen or heard about the board method, and then forgotten about it, so thank you for the reminder!
I've used lumber to preserve the tree (my great uncle did that a lot). I have also used an old water hose as an insulator to run the electric fence wire thru then around the tree (at a corner). We use a single nail to keep it from sliding up or down the tree.
due to the 10 to $12 cost per tee post i have used small puplar trees 2 to 6" and cut them off at 6 feet, i used the big trees for the corners, but i use screws so i can back them out as the big tree grows, i use this for both my pigs and cows, steers, heifers, i follow were the trees are witch is not hard to stay farly strait due to how thick there are, i have to use a few tee post here and there but not many, and i have miles of fence, i use a ;ot of peaces of 1" pex pipe for stand off corner insulators, drill a hole in each end, corner insulaters are not cheap
Troy weather you believe me or don't doesn't matter to me, I at least got it off my chest. I only had five acres with house included in this rockpile and mud combow I lived on so thinking ahead, cut some willow that the size of my little ones wrist, used a few things. Measured out landlines, then got measured straight line areas laid out then with my post driver made small holes in the straight lines and stuck the willow shoots/limbs in the ground that year with some water around each one where ground was a bit dry and did it in the corner I figured on. I did have some trees here and there but very few and they were large good trees to not be hurt hopefully. I wanted to come back to my plants/tree shoots that following year but my round to it got in the way but wife on her very own checked them and kept watering them since it was a team job back then as she got board and would invent things to keep her happy like picking berries off the brambles. We lived on bottom land close near the river and a creek and so it was nice there for uncleared ground cept for house lot of space and that was about it and then the driveway which went this and that to get around obstructions like a big boulder an stuff. We were going on the third year as we did get my small pole shop building kinda up... not much on the sides except some posts that collected litter. A roof was the biggy as the snow working on my little dump truck was miserable in deep snow. I finally got back to a guy I bought some pigs from, not many but four or five, don't remember and he told me they tasted good and when I was serious to come around and I couldn't fault him for that. We, wife an I went walking our brush pile and she showed me those shoots again and now they were firm growing trees about three inches or so but lots of them an I was surprised how well they grew along with fresh shoots that volunteered. I will shorten this a bit by saying we did string wire on insulators on those posts but it wasn't working so well as what was only a foot off the ground when put there, was almost two foot above and dad did save me there. Since willow is good for shoots, we cut our shoots off at about five to six feet. then on the back side, made a axe cut into them and stuck a shoot into it to keep it alive and not rotting off. I believe we had a hundred percent success but make a liar out of me for a dime. Those stumps got bigger but not much taller and it really worked well.
We have used old garden hose to go around tree but also to use as an insulator in a "V" shape out from the tree. The rubber hose can handle the pressure from different directions that a small plastic insulator and if you a farm/homestead there is always a busted hose some where.
I’ve done the same as what you do. I’ve done the boards on really nice good quality trees other trees. I don’t worry about it at all. I’ve even given up on insulators now and just use fence staples and go right to the tree. I found absolutely no voltage drop in my phone’s charger doing that Takes a long time to kill a tree also if at all I mean I see a wire that’s in giant trees around here that is probably 70 or 80 years old and the trees look healthy. You wouldn’t wanna put a chainsaw to them at that heights obviously like to see if you did a follow up video on the stuff, cause it’s good to see somebody trying to fence through the woods like I do great video
Great video Troy. I really like the board idea. I think that is the way to go when you can.
I just made a fence today screwed to trees . I made a vedeo off it . Sofar so good I used long screws so I can back off my insulators every year as the trees get bigger
Great video. Much appreciated. We are in Thailand & planning to put waterbuffalo on our wild land to graze.
When I cross fenced my farm, I put in metal because I wanted the more or less permanence (no fence is permanent) of a metal fence. I also want a straight line on boundaries to prevent subsequent issues of adverse possession by subsequent neighbors.
As I ran paddocks off the perimeter fence and cross fence, I used trees.
For the readers that think this is ecological destruction, please tell me which is better:
1. I use a tree or
2. I cut the tree down to place a metal post. But it is not that simple how much does the environment suffer, in the mining, manufacturing, transportation of the metal (or non-metal) posts?
I use galv. Drywall screws to attach insulators
Agreed
The number one commodity on a farm is money...….use the trees...…..if done correctly as stated in various ways in the other replies, fence poles were always reserved for areas with no trees.
We had a modern horse, the 4 wheeler,..it had fence pliers a left over partial roll of wire...nails,staples and various bits of old and broken insulators.....mount up every few days and run the fence line....look for problems and take care of them and fix broken areas.
I really enjoyed running the fence line, got to check out the property, relax....have my coffee and feel productive...…..
Troy when I grew up on the farm we used way more trees than posts but we also cut alot of locust off the farm for posts saving money. I have seen locust post last for 30 to 50 years wish I had a Nickol for all the post I help cut and split. So yes definitely take every advantage, all the esthetic looks really doesn't matter when on the back 40 as they say so what if it's crooked the deer won't complain nor will the pigs, cows or horses. Just saying
My sawmill loves a new blade. Keep nailing to those trees lol.
Mike Cox They really love the porcelain insulators!
I will use trees on my fencing adventure. I have a zillion 3-6 inch pines to make a perfect fence line and Pasture.
Only thing I will do is use 2×4 blocks to secure onto and use shallow nails to attach to tree.
Screw eyes aren't going to kill a tree donut insulators handle weird directional tension well extra wire versus post wire is always cheaper and with 100 to 150 trees per acre just don't mill trees you've attached to. Personally I like the organic lines created by using trees.
THANK YOU!!!
Greetings from rural northeastern California!
Today I discovered your channel. I had been watching Wranglerstar's video about his new Honda Pioneer. Then I was clicking around to see more such presentations. I stoped at yours -- the one where Honda couldn't get you a snow blade. That is as far as I got. I like the way you present things. I like hearing no profane or blasphemous language. And I think I am going to like learning about your place and what you are doing with it.
I am a lifelong Westerner. Except when we lived 3.5 years in Monmouth County, NJ. (That was for caregiving. G'ma & G'p were in their 90s.)
So, where are you? Do I detect a NY license plate on your truck? I have had friends and inlaws who lived in NY State. Am I close?
Although I have done many things in life I have been an arborist since the mid 80s. I am impressed with your tree knowledge. In fact I think you know about compartmentalization.
Let's talk about your corner tree you may have talked yourself into, I think you said. Two things come to mind.
•First is that vine on the tree. Vines are not good for trees. As it spirals up it may choke the trunk. It may grow into the trunk like the wire you showed us. And/or if it is bushy enough up in the crown it may starve the crown of sunlight.
•I would not expect the vertical boards, if attached to the tree, to grow out with the diameter increase through the years. If a good installation job is done the board will stay. And the tree will encompass it. Or plural, them.
And if the boards rot first... well you know the rest. And you will stil have hardware in the tree again.
My sister married into a ranch family in our corner of the state. They have a kind of fencepost they make. I can't remember what they call it. But anyway they take some field fencing, with say 4"x 6" wire spacing. They make a cylinder of it. 2' to 3' diameter and place it upright. Then it is filled with rocks. These are amazingly durable. I see them mid fence and at corners. What do you think of that?
Well thanks for sharing about your place. I have subscribed and look forward to lesrning more.
Michael Dougfir
In California.
Michael Dougfir I’ve seen those “pilings” when I lived in the Bend Oregon area... I think they are super durable, but I think they are used in areas when you can’t get a post in the ground due to rock or a hard pan layer. I’m from the east coast, it’s nice to have lived in different areas to see how things are done to accomplish the same end result. I think they are called “gabions”.
I do if its super expedient. Sometimes trees *are* in the way of a straight line. But generally I avoid it. The few times Ive done it years ago I now see that as the plastic insulator is absorbed by the tree , it shorts out and makes a difficult short to find. And it gets worse over time.
It's important to maintain a fence by annually resetimg insulaters. You just don't put up fence and forget it
Thank you ! I've been searching for that kind of information for months and all I could find was fencing tips from cattle farmers in the Midwest. I really appreciated your research and concerns (which I share).
I heard about using bike tube, do you think it will sink in the bark too ?
Possibly. Attaching a board to the tree first is the way I am doing it now. Nails will stay but the board will not get wrapped up in the bark.
Possibly. Attaching a board to the tree first is the way I am doing it now. Nails will stay but the board will not get wrapped up in the bark.
Are you going to get some Highlander cattle? Thanks I saw your video where you were up in my neck of the woods looking at Highlanders
Use them , you have enough trees . So use some trees and some fence posts .
$12 fence post few trees used is ok 😂
On my property the answer is NO. But I also rent out large parts of my property and don't want them to decide so it's much easier to just make it an absolute rule.
thank you for sharing....i would not tie into a tree....
So, you need to use 2 boards vs 1 (if you sink the post into the ground), vs 0 (if you put the insulators nailed into the tree. Options 1 and 3 both have you putting a nail or screw into the tree, but option 3 costs a lot less. Just put the insulators in the tree and save time and money. Option 2 is even better that option 1.
Trees can surprise you. You want to use a tree for a post and drive one nail or screw in a lag and it dies. Most times it does no harm. Personally I would not use a tree, if possible I would move the corner 20-30’ away, it’s easier to use a real and shorten a paddock than to expand one. If funding provides you can use a timeless corner system, they are guaranteed for 20 years. One less point for a ground fault, the corner is permanent, no worries about interfering with the production of your tree, you don’t have to worry about the tension on your wire. For permanent fencing make your corners and braces permanent, everything in between can be temporary post till you have time and funds to replace with a more permanent solution.
Some years trees grow faster than expected and snap wires. How much time do you have dedicated to checking fence?
As I mentioned in other comments. Putting insulators on trees dosnt hurt the tree if the fence is maintained. All that's needed is once a year you go around and reset each insulator . Now if you just stick up fence and forget it that isn't good but also is lazy farming. Maintain fence and nailing to trees is not ever a problem.
Better get a metal detector to use on your sawmill. Good show.
I would not attach anything other than insulators, repurposed garden hose, or boards to trees, no wires directly on the tree...
BTW fencing staples are shaped kinda sorta like horseshoes. "Horseshoe nails" are a specific type of nail, used to attach shoes to horse's hooves. Worthless for fencing applications.
Don’t