I am a hobbyist living in rural area North of Thailand. Having no background in machine learning, only learn this from TH-cam and Google. Learning a lot by watching your videos on many topics
I want to thank you again for the great channel, There are a lot of great machining and welding channels out there but 2 stand out, Yours, and Jody at Welding tips and tricks. You both provide a great amount of content in a relatively short presentation. Others, who I really like like Mrpete and the like, are really good info, but a 45 minute video with 15 minutes of content, gets hard to stay engaged with. find myself fast forwarding through a lot stuff. Thanks for the great work Tony!
I'm in the process of making a fly cutter based on your video tony, when in the exact same stage of making the 10 degree angle, the switch of my mill melted too. Guess I'm following the tutorial to the spot. Except maybe that I'm using a round stock steel, didn't have a hex :)
YOU'RE SO EDUCATIONAL!! I LOVE IT!! I'M YELLING BECAUSE IT'S IMPORTANT!! I've seen all of your videos, and this is easily my favorite channel on the entire internet, followed closely by clickspring.
The end of the video was a hoot. thanks for the explanation of feeds and speeds. I do not have a machinist background, but I am getting a better understanding with your help and the good book.
Thanks Tony, no need to apologize. Best explanation yet of why the surface finish changes on a lathe. For earballing I love the Wixey...the square is nice too. Hope you find the contactor easily no fuss no muss, low duckets....~PJ
haha - you're one of the most creative characters I know and you just demonstrated what, to me, is the greatest benefit of being creative - the ability to make the best of a bad situation. This channel is great!
I notices the surface finish and thought that that must have to do something with the rpm of the lathe and wondered how this exactly works. Seconds later you explain it. Love it!
I hadn't looked at how many subs you had in a while, and was shocked to find that you only had 86 thousand. You are by far the most undersubscribed TH-camr I know. Keep the greatness going and you'll succeed I guarantee
I truely believe TOT is the highest quality instructional video of any kind I have seen anywhere on youtube. I could not agree more. I'm not a machinist, but these videos fascinating. Even my wife, who is not mechanically minded, enjoys watching these videos because of the great production value and sense of humor. Keep up the good work!!!
I agree! Found TOT while searching for CNC Router videos and haven't looked back. Easy to listen as he walks us through the videos and amazing what I've learned to date. Keep up the great work Tony!
Flycutters are great for some materials such as plastics and other soft materials. Many people see them as "old school" facemills. They just have to be run at slower feed rates and rpms; mostly because of the unbalanced nature of the tool. If used properly, they can produce a better finish than facemills. I think it is funny to be making a flycutter using a facemill. Great job Tony. You are the best.
Another thing is that it is easy to grind a custom tool for a flycutter. I did that once to make a large threadmill to cut a strange profile multi-start plastic cap thread. Also shop made gear cutting is often done with one, too.
Heh, I don't even do any machine shop type work--I just watch these because they are so well written/scripted/edited. Every new video on this channel is a treat.
Hey Tony! Thanks for so much input in 2016. Happy new year to you and your family. I recommend your site to lots of people! Excellent job in all respects.
Since he mentioned the automatic variable cutting speed based on the diameter modification, I'm really tempted to do it to my lathe, it's running a VFD so it would be pretty easy
I ran a manual Weiler Practicant VC for some time - It had the constanc speed feature...real scary when the machine turned up to 3000rpm when facing something... (Yes, the max. speed could be limited if the setup did not allow such high rpms..like a offcenter clamped part on a face plate)
You would, and your control could likely be doing a zero on the centre point, setting the desired speed and a maximum RPM you would let it go to, maybe a percentage of the initial RPM? To stop whoopsies
I was just talking to a friend about surface speed the other day, and I keep trying to get him to watch your videos; so I think I can finally get him hooked with this one! Hope the mill doesn't take too much to get it back up and running!
Mate.... I just have to say... even tho you are very clever and obviously Uber experienced from doing this you’re whole career, you still take the time to explain everything. I love that ! Although being 50+ I’m very new to this and just lap up every word. Great sense of humour too which makes learning much more interesting. If all the teachers back in school were as interesting and funny as you I would have learned considerably more and would probably be a rocket scientist by now 😊 Looking forward to part 2 👍
Feeds n' speed? Wtf! I have know idea what you are talking about 50 % of the time but you're one of the few channels I look forward to seeing new videos come out for! Keep it up boss!
When you were facing that hex stock I noticed that surface finish changing because of the change in material removal rate, and then you talked about it. Now I consider myself a psychic, lol.
Oooh! I'm super glad you did that "filler material"! I wondered as soon as i saw it what had caused that difference in surface finish :P Now I'm aching to see part 2, if only to find out about that contactor :O
Tony, I learn something new with every video. I have an old lathe an it came with a bunch of HSS tooling. I wanted to get "fancy" and upgrade to carbide tools but it appears I will do fine with what I have. Since I am just learning anyway it is better to start slow. Very entertaining as always.
I've slowly started moving over to almost all insert tooling.. mostly because I find it cheap at flea markets :) -- but I'm glad I started with HSS and turn to it when I have a finicky problem to solve. What one learns sharpening their own HSS translates into all the other tooling that's out there.
I really enjoy your videos! I can get very good tips and tricks for my work. I'm learning a mechanical in Germany and have a lot of work with the lathe or mill to do. Interesting to see, how you are calculating the rpm. I've learned that Cutting speed is: Speed=pi*diameter*rpm. So slightly different calculation of rpm as you do.
Thanks.. and I think that's the same formula, just solve for RPM since speed is what you already know (target speed).. assume pi=3 and there are 12 inches per foot and you'll get the formula I used. If you're metric the constants will look different, but same formula.
Again, excellent video. You're on the forefront of making TH-cam machining videos, seriously, you're on the cutting edge (adjusted for part diameter and rotation speed) awesome video production. Good job.
Thanks for the explanation of the surface finish change. Makes perfect sense once you go through it. I do wonder about the cutting tool radius vs finish. I've got some more learning to do. :) If I had to guess, maybe it's because the large radius makes for a more gradual entry into the cut? Instead of a sharp point on a carbide tool? More of like an ice cream scoop than a spatula? At a microscopic level, the sharp point is chipping instead of shaving? Carbide hardness playing a role in the chipping due to the tools rigidity?
One of the very first things I learned was RPM = Cutting Speed * 4 / Diameter. In a lathe Diameter is your workpiece, in a mill it's your cutter. With your example of a 3" workpiece at 1000 surface feet/min Cutting Speed, that comes out to about 1300 RPM, so your 1200 RPM is good and it shows. By the, say, 1.5" diameter you'd need 2,600 RPM to keep from falling out of the ideal range like you did and your surface finished suffered. The very rare Monarch 1000EE lathe is an example of a manual lathe which often came with a constant cutting speed feature. Maybe the Monarch Series 60 and 61 had it, too.
TOT i have never machined anything in my life. Heck I've never even welded or used a lathe, yet here i am caring about surface finish and admiring your chips. what have you done to me?
Idk how to run a mill or a lathe, but I absolutely love your videos is so fricken cool!! I wish I had a quarter of the skill and talent you have. Great video as always!!
in our workshop we have an old manual lathe probably like 20-30 years old, it has a lever to up the RPM on the fly as your turning but i think it's the only (manual) lathe we have with that option
A FLY cutter is one of my first "had to have" tools after buying a small mill. Prior to parting off what is to be the holder why not cut the 10 degree on the lathe? Just a thought
Damn you Tony, i had my cake and tea ready to see this through, you really let us down with poor maintenance... Get the 2nd half up before my tea goes cold :)
It's a bit of a bummer that your mill started to misbehave. I hope you will get it sorted out. (Or more specific I know you will) I have the same ISO/INT/QC 30 spindle taper on my mill and any new tooling that you make for it is something that I look forward to see.
So, you put the metally bit into the clampy thing and spin it fast, is this done by foot action or rotated by hand? Also, at 10:42 ish did you spit on your work??? Say it don't spray it, Man. Even with all the slobber, another excellent video.
Tony, you've inspired me to jump in, and I've bought a lathe and a mill recently. I repaired a hydraulic cylinder and ended up with a rod about 4" in diameter and 20' long. (it was slightly bent). I was excited to have this material for practice and fabrication. Can you tell me what it is about chromed cylinder rod that you're not a fan of? The more I know about what it is good for, or rather, what it isn't good for, the better off I'll be. Thanks for all your awesome content.
Ceazar Carr its more or less a face mill however it uses carbide tool bit to do the cutting. It's meant to get a precise and clean finish compared to you traditional face mill. It's usually only for your finishing passes not for roughing.
Fly cutters predate face mills, and they were meant to just take your regular HSS tooling. Running them at excessive speeds can cause marring, as they aren't balanced.
Face mills remove material faster than fly cutters because they have more separate cutting points in contact with the material at the same time - and require that much more power to remove that material for the same reason. Because of that, a lower power machine like most home gamers can afford, can use a fly cutter with a long reach to finish a much wider area in one pass than the much smaller facemill it could drive using the same power. Fly cutters can work with any 'lathe' style cutters, including easily/cheaply sharpened HSS bits. The low power requirement, low cutter cost, and ease of sharpening really suits the garage / shed / basement shop. The tradeoff is speed, which generally isn't a priority in that kind of context. In my home shop I have a 2" carbide insert facemill I use for work small enough to cover in one pass, and for rough facing my often rusty salvaged materials. Other than that I use a fly cutter because the cost to me is really only the time it takes to keep my collection of HSS lathe bits sharpened.
very cool. It must be a very tight clamp, it would seem to me that you would want something underneath it to help it stay at the angle you want it cut at. Good luck fixing your machine. :-) And Happy Holidays!
Thank you so much for the videos that you have done this year. Marvellously informative and entertaining with a fantastic sense of humour. I am only to aware of the time and effort that goes in to making a video once again my sincere thanks. Happy New Year Kind Regards Jim Walton
I was about to comment asking about the surface finish, then 5:18 happened ! Is my intuition off or is it more intuitive to decrease the speed (or increase the feed) the closer you get to the center instead of increasing the speed ?
On a second thought, RPM = speed/diameter ==> speed = RPM*diameter so to keep the speed constant we need to increase the RPM the smaller the diameter gets which is probably what was said in the video.
Thank you for talking about the surface finish change. I was wondering about that on some of my own parts. I do disagree a bit. I still get the transition even at slow speeds. I think it's more that as the diameter decreases, the tool is shoving more into the work rather than letting the spindle do the work. IF you think about it, on a 3" diameter, it has 9.5" of metal in a line to advance the 10 thou that you might be feeding at. At 1/4" diameter, it has less than one inch in which to be shoved the same 10thou. Although it also seems like the chip should be constant thinkness...
The Metal Butcher I agree with what you are saying only for HSS tools. If I'm facing something with old school tools I never use the automatic feed because of what you stated on your comment. Carbide does not like slow speeds period.
The Metal Butcher I thought that is what he was saying? The closer you get to the center the slower the material is moving, so the rpm would need to increase the closer you get to the center. Your still going to get a transition with slower speeds because no matter how fast or slow the rpm is, there is still a difference of speed between the outside of your piece and the center of it.
From what i have seen so far, CNC Lathes can increase spindle speed for that reason as a function of diameter. I wonder if a coupling of DRO/encoder and an external VFD-control could make a cool extra feature for manual lathes.
Weird my lathe also "blew" a contactor this week. I also had to stop using it, even if turned the spidndle off, turn the power switch off, pushed the e-stop or press the brake the motor would still wouldn't stop. Kinda scary when you're machining UHMV at 2000rpm.
do you need to worry about the balance of a fly cutter? seems like if it was too far off, at high speeds, it could changed things a bit? or is it not enough to really worry about?
I installed a 3 phase inverter on my 3 phase Graziano lathe. I can change the speed of the lathe as I get closer to the centre of the speed if necessary. I like it better then just a few speed option I originally get. Anyway, I did not have much choice. I do not have 3 phase in my garage.
"Since this is probably going to be a short video and I need some filler content..." *creates video in two parts* Lmao. Glad you gave the cutting speed explanation though.
That must have been a big allen wrench...
I saw this comment before the video started and i died when it came in frame
U mean a hex wrench?
@@kylet9969 same thing
No, it's normal sized, Tony just shrank.
I heard he got it from Allen himself
"This is not a drill… it is a mill!"
Thank you for making me happy, Tony!
RIP Tony's mill. May your chips always be straw colored, and your adjectives never be "clapped out".
ha!
This Old Tony when’s the surface gauge coming?
@@ThisOldTony
Surface gauge?
This Old Tony surface gauge?
@@ThisOldTony So, that gear up yet? 2020 is the year of the Surface Gauge...
Whenever my dad said "It'll do you good," or, "It'll build character," what he really meant was "It'll serve you right."
haha!
out of all my subs Tony is the only one I get excited to see videos from. I love these videos
You need to find new people to subscribe to.
Justin Bell no, that's a great position to be in. It's the same case with me. AvE, Clickspring and Tony are my three top channels
Tony and SNS.
Guds777 Who is SNS, what am I missing on the TH-cams?
Guds777 Who is SNS, what am I missing on the TH-cams?
I hope you mill is OK, Tony! I enjoy and learn so much from you videos that YOUR mill is LITERALLY the most important mill in the world to me.
haha.. here here
Xxxejwnbwbwvqwwbwi 2uu1zta400
Thank you for breaking down the basics us you're videos are always educational, witty and incredible quality. Always look forward to them!
Dang, a change in surface finish due to turning speed ? I thought it was the growth rings of the steel
If those are growth rings;He should use a circular saw with appropriate blade that away he would get an even cut across the grain.
Yeah, ironwood.
I am a hobbyist living in rural area North of Thailand. Having no background in machine learning, only learn this from TH-cam and Google. Learning a lot by watching your videos on many topics
..loving the humor. As a woodturner I finished a little bit smarter about cutting speeds after your explanation. Thank you.
I want to thank you again for the great channel, There are a lot of great machining and welding channels out there but 2 stand out, Yours, and Jody at Welding tips and tricks.
You both provide a great amount of content in a relatively short presentation.
Others, who I really like like Mrpete and the like, are really good info, but a 45 minute video with 15 minutes of content, gets hard to stay engaged with. find myself fast forwarding through a lot stuff.
Thanks for the great work Tony!
I'm in the process of making a fly cutter based on your video tony, when in the exact same stage of making the 10 degree angle, the switch of my mill melted too. Guess I'm following the tutorial to the spot.
Except maybe that I'm using a round stock steel, didn't have a hex :)
"I got about 1 hour to my self
I think i can knock one out"
Yea wtf haha
I can usually knock 1 out in an hour to myself😂😂
Half the time we save using mechanical advantages is spent keeping them running lol
YOU'RE SO EDUCATIONAL!! I LOVE IT!! I'M YELLING BECAUSE IT'S IMPORTANT!!
I've seen all of your videos, and this is easily my favorite channel on the entire internet, followed closely by clickspring.
Thanks Brad!
As field service I am impressed that the FLIR was used for troubleshooting. Bravo, not many people know about that.
The end of the video was a hoot. thanks for the explanation of feeds and speeds. I do not have a machinist background, but I am getting a better understanding with your help and the good book.
Thanks Tony, no need to apologize. Best explanation yet of why the surface finish changes on a lathe. For earballing I love the Wixey...the square is nice too. Hope you find the contactor easily no fuss no muss, low duckets....~PJ
haha - you're one of the most creative characters I know and you just demonstrated what, to me, is the greatest benefit of being creative - the ability to make the best of a bad situation. This channel is great!
thank you!
Thanks for doing what you do. Love the effort you put into your videos.
Thanks Earl!
I notices the surface finish and thought that that must have to do something with the rpm of the lathe and wondered how this exactly works. Seconds later you explain it. Love it!
I hadn't looked at how many subs you had in a while, and was shocked to find that you only had 86 thousand. You are by far the most undersubscribed TH-camr I know. Keep the greatness going and you'll succeed I guarantee
I truely believe TOT is the highest quality instructional video of any kind I have seen anywhere on youtube. I could not agree more. I'm not a machinist, but these videos fascinating. Even my wife, who is not mechanically minded, enjoys watching these videos because of the great production value and sense of humor. Keep up the good work!!!
I agree! Found TOT while searching for CNC Router videos and haven't looked back. Easy to listen as he walks us through the videos and amazing what I've learned to date. Keep up the great work Tony!
he just needs to make a few slugs for taofledermaus and it will triple over night...
omg yes pls do this tony
TOT and Clickspring belong in the youtuber's hall of fame.
Flycutters are great for some materials such as plastics and other soft materials. Many people see them as "old school" facemills. They just have to be run at slower feed rates and rpms; mostly because of the unbalanced nature of the tool. If used properly, they can produce a better finish than facemills. I think it is funny to be making a flycutter using a facemill. Great job Tony. You are the best.
Another thing is that it is easy to grind a custom tool for a flycutter. I did that once to make a large threadmill to cut a strange profile multi-start plastic cap thread. Also shop made gear cutting is often done with one, too.
I was just thinking about that hazy area just before you mentioned it. Look at you go!
Heh, I don't even do any machine shop type work--I just watch these because they are so well written/scripted/edited.
Every new video on this channel is a treat.
Thanks Johnathan!
Hey Tony! Thanks for so much input in 2016. Happy new year to you and your family. I recommend your site to lots of people! Excellent job in all respects.
Great explanation on cutting speeds.
Since he mentioned the automatic variable cutting speed based on the diameter modification, I'm really tempted to do it to my lathe, it's running a VFD so it would be pretty easy
It must be a weird feeling on a manual lathe to have it running up as you face something, LOL!
I ran a manual Weiler Practicant VC for some time - It had the constanc speed feature...real scary when the machine turned up to 3000rpm when facing something...
(Yes, the max. speed could be limited if the setup did not allow such high rpms..like a offcenter clamped part on a face plate)
I assume you'd have to feed the VFD positional information from your DROs?
You would, and your control could likely be doing a zero on the centre point, setting the desired speed and a maximum RPM you would let it go to, maybe a percentage of the initial RPM? To stop whoopsies
No need to apologize... excrement occurs! to all of us. Excellent tutorial on the feed and speed. Looking forward to part 2
I was just talking to a friend about surface speed the other day, and I keep trying to get him to watch your videos; so I think I can finally get him hooked with this one!
Hope the mill doesn't take too much to get it back up and running!
Love the calibrated tilt gauge, carefully adjusting the completely arbitrary 10 degrees.
Mate.... I just have to say... even tho you are very clever and obviously Uber experienced from doing this you’re whole career, you still take the time to explain everything. I love that !
Although being 50+ I’m very new to this and just lap up every word.
Great sense of humour too which makes learning much more interesting.
If all the teachers back in school were as interesting and funny as you I would have learned considerably more and would probably be a rocket scientist by now 😊
Looking forward to part 2 👍
I'd rather have two parts than have to wait longer to have the full length! Triple pun surely intended. Love your work!
I love this channel, everything from the subject matter and video production to the exquisite dad humor is fantastic
that hex piece looked like a huge allen key with those corners cut on the end
Feeds n' speed? Wtf! I have know idea what you are talking about 50 % of the time but you're one of the few channels I look forward to seeing new videos come out for! Keep it up boss!
Hi Tony , no worries we will all wait with baited breath for part two , happy new year to you and your family
Regards from the UK
PARTSMADE
When you were facing that hex stock I noticed that surface finish changing because of the change in material removal rate, and then you talked about it. Now I consider myself a psychic, lol.
I hope the mill is ok. Its the middle of winter with nothing to do but watch videos and shovel snow.
You have no idea how much that surface finish was bothering me. Thanks for explaining all that!
6:15. can we please get 'Speeds & Feeds' famous duo t-shirts, with that logo. count me in. or a toolbox magnet.
Best half of a video I have ever seen. Happy New Year.
Why are facing cuts so satisfying to watch? Is it just me? 🤩
New Year New Lathe!!! Blessed New Year, Tony. Keep the videos coming!!!
Oooh! I'm super glad you did that "filler material"! I wondered as soon as i saw it what had caused that difference in surface finish :P
Now I'm aching to see part 2, if only to find out about that contactor :O
Tony, I learn something new with every video. I have an old lathe an it came with a bunch of HSS tooling. I wanted to get "fancy" and upgrade to carbide tools but it appears I will do fine with what I have. Since I am just learning anyway it is better to start slow. Very entertaining as always.
I've slowly started moving over to almost all insert tooling.. mostly because I find it cheap at flea markets :) -- but I'm glad I started with HSS and turn to it when I have a finicky problem to solve. What one learns sharpening their own HSS translates into all the other tooling that's out there.
High speed steel is greatly preferred by the Dutch and Scottish!
first you make me google what a fly cutter is, then i find out it's not chopping insects to bits at all, and i still watch the vijeo. well done.
I really enjoy your videos! I can get very good tips and tricks for my work. I'm learning a mechanical in Germany and have a lot of work with the lathe or mill to do. Interesting to see, how you are calculating the rpm. I've learned that Cutting speed is: Speed=pi*diameter*rpm. So slightly different calculation of rpm as you do.
Thanks.. and I think that's the same formula, just solve for RPM since speed is what you already know (target speed).. assume pi=3 and there are 12 inches per foot and you'll get the formula I used. If you're metric the constants will look different, but same formula.
aaaaaaah not only a 2-parter but also a serious cliffhanger, damn you tony for making such entertaining videos!
Again, excellent video. You're on the forefront of making TH-cam machining videos, seriously, you're on the cutting edge (adjusted for part diameter and rotation speed) awesome video production. Good job.
ha!
Thanks for the explanation of the surface finish change. Makes perfect sense once you go through it. I do wonder about the cutting tool radius vs finish. I've got some more learning to do. :)
If I had to guess, maybe it's because the large radius makes for a more gradual entry into the cut? Instead of a sharp point on a carbide tool? More of like an ice cream scoop than a spatula? At a microscopic level, the sharp point is chipping instead of shaving? Carbide hardness playing a role in the chipping due to the tools rigidity?
well, here I thought this was about fly dissection - still very much enjoyed and learned from this video. Thanks Tony
Man..those Euromills with their wacky wiring ;)
Not made in Germany....
Stefan Gotteswinter everything is crap except made in germany
I think you should have used your time machine to go back to yesterday when the mill was fine 😉
Hope its an easy fix...
Mills are more powerful than time, you know this.
One of the very first things I learned was RPM = Cutting Speed * 4 / Diameter. In a lathe Diameter is your workpiece, in a mill it's your cutter. With your example of a 3" workpiece at 1000 surface feet/min Cutting Speed, that comes out to about 1300 RPM, so your 1200 RPM is good and it shows. By the, say, 1.5" diameter you'd need 2,600 RPM to keep from falling out of the ideal range like you did and your surface finished suffered. The very rare Monarch 1000EE lathe is an example of a manual lathe which often came with a constant cutting speed feature. Maybe the Monarch Series 60 and 61 had it, too.
I think Acer? made one or two but I'm not surprised to hear the Monarch did too.
I expected to see flies cut in two.
He'd have had to catch and freeze some before winter.
What like the kind that are on a man’s pants?
@@orppranator5230 those are weener cutters.
with enough skill
Bummer about the mill good explanation on cutting speeds, I have always wondered why CNC lathes do the progressive ramp ups when facing
900 ft/min on a shaper..... Am I then only one having goose bumps from this?
Although that's the correct number, shapers don't really like carbide / insert tooling. Good catch.
Although that's the correct number, shapers don't really like carbide / insert tooling. Good catch.
TOT i have never machined anything in my life. Heck I've never even welded or used a lathe, yet here i am caring about surface finish and admiring your chips. what have you done to me?
Another one to add to the greats.
Really enjoyed this video. Learned a lot. Keep it up!
Loved the technical talk in the middle! Thanks!
Love the videos and the humor. Cheers
Idk how to run a mill or a lathe, but I absolutely love your videos is so fricken cool!! I wish I had a quarter of the skill and talent you have. Great video as always!!
Boring comment alert! Thanks for all your interesting videos. I've learned a great deal from you.
Darnit Tony i had just sprinkled my popcorn with hot sauce to watch this video. It was at the most exciting time too.
Im scrolling through your archive for oldies
Are we ever gonna see the surface gauge build? Stefen’s was pretty cool, I’d love to see your take on it.
I'm no machinist, at best my metal work goes as far as a crappy welding but I do enjoy watching videos of stuff being made well. Kevin.
Thanks!
Good thing for the surface finish sidetrack or this would have been a 2 minute video! Holding breath for Part 2, good stuff man.
Or did the surface finish tangent CAUSE the break?!
This Old Tony Mind == Blown
Great vid, hope you get the mill back up and running!
in our workshop we have an old manual lathe probably like 20-30 years old, it has a lever to up the RPM on the fly as your turning
but i think it's the only (manual) lathe we have with that option
A FLY cutter is one of my first "had to have" tools after buying a small mill. Prior to parting off what is to be the holder why not cut the 10 degree on the lathe? Just a thought
Damn you Tony, i had my cake and tea ready to see this through, you really let us down with poor maintenance... Get the 2nd half up before my tea goes cold :)
TOT do you sharpen your drill bits by hand? The facing finish is where a VFD can help. A great teaching video. On to Part 2
It's a bit of a bummer that your mill started to misbehave. I hope you will get it sorted out. (Or more specific I know you will)
I have the same ISO/INT/QC 30 spindle taper on my mill and any new tooling that you make for it is something that I look forward to see.
The famous duo - feeds and speeds - don’t know why, but I could not stop laughing at that image 😂
So, you put the metally bit into the clampy thing and spin it fast, is this done by foot action or rotated by hand?
Also, at 10:42 ish did you spit on your work??? Say it don't spray it, Man.
Even with all the slobber, another excellent video.
I hope your mill will be an easy fix!
Good luck
Blasting laughter so early and waking up the household!
Tony, you've inspired me to jump in, and I've bought a lathe and a mill recently. I repaired a hydraulic cylinder and ended up with a rod about 4" in diameter and 20' long. (it was slightly bent). I was excited to have this material for practice and fabrication. Can you tell me what it is about chromed cylinder rod that you're not a fan of? The more I know about what it is good for, or rather, what it isn't good for, the better off I'll be. Thanks for all your awesome content.
What kind of contactor do u need. I might have a used one
Noooo I can't cope having to wait. Love your work Tony. Have a great 2017.
I'm not a machinist but I find the hobby very interesting, so I don't know what a fly cutter is. Is it like a cheap version of a face mill?
Ceazar Carr its more or less a face mill however it uses carbide tool bit to do the cutting. It's meant to get a precise and clean finish compared to you traditional face mill. It's usually only for your finishing passes not for roughing.
***** Thanks!
Fly cutters predate face mills, and they were meant to just take your regular HSS tooling. Running them at excessive speeds can cause marring, as they aren't balanced.
Face mills remove material faster than fly cutters because they have more separate cutting points in contact with the material at the same time - and require that much more power to remove that material for the same reason.
Because of that, a lower power machine like most home gamers can afford, can use a fly cutter with a long reach to finish a much wider area in one pass than the much smaller facemill it could drive using the same power.
Fly cutters can work with any 'lathe' style cutters, including easily/cheaply sharpened HSS bits. The low power requirement, low cutter cost, and ease of sharpening really suits the garage / shed / basement shop. The tradeoff is speed, which generally isn't a priority in that kind of context.
In my home shop I have a 2" carbide insert facemill I use for work small enough to cover in one pass, and for rough facing my often rusty salvaged materials. Other than that I use a fly cutter because the cost to me is really only the time it takes to keep my collection of HSS lathe bits sharpened.
Also it's not bad for finishing to have just one cutting edge, because there won't be any height differences between the cutters
right now my list of things to do is so long ill probably never die...
Oh yes you will but your list will live forever.:>)
hah!
very cool. It must be a very tight clamp, it would seem to me that you would want something underneath it to help it stay at the angle you want it cut at. Good luck fixing your machine. :-) And Happy Holidays!
Thank you so much for the videos that you have done this year. Marvellously informative and entertaining with a fantastic sense of humour. I am only to aware of the time and effort that goes in to making a video once again my sincere thanks.
Happy New Year
Kind Regards
Jim Walton
I was about to comment asking about the surface finish, then 5:18 happened !
Is my intuition off or is it more intuitive to decrease the speed (or increase the feed) the closer you get to the center instead of increasing the speed ?
On a second thought, RPM = speed/diameter ==> speed = RPM*diameter so to keep the speed constant we need to increase the RPM the smaller the diameter gets which is probably what was said in the video.
Thank you for talking about the surface finish change. I was wondering about that on some of my own parts. I do disagree a bit. I still get the transition even at slow speeds. I think it's more that as the diameter decreases, the tool is shoving more into the work rather than letting the spindle do the work. IF you think about it, on a 3" diameter, it has 9.5" of metal in a line to advance the 10 thou that you might be feeding at. At 1/4" diameter, it has less than one inch in which to be shoved the same 10thou. Although it also seems like the chip should be constant thinkness...
The Metal Butcher I agree with what you are saying only for HSS tools. If I'm facing something with old school tools I never use the automatic feed because of what you stated on your comment. Carbide does not like slow speeds period.
As I understood it, the reason is that your speed is too low!? Did I get that part wrong?
The Metal Butcher I thought that is what he was saying? The closer you get to the center the slower the material is moving, so the rpm would need to increase the closer you get to the center. Your still going to get a transition with slower speeds because no matter how fast or slow the rpm is, there is still a difference of speed between the outside of your piece and the center of it.
That's what I thought :)
From what i have seen so far, CNC Lathes can increase spindle speed for that reason as a function of diameter. I wonder if a coupling of DRO/encoder and an external VFD-control could make a cool extra feature for manual lathes.
Weird my lathe also "blew" a contactor this week. I also had to stop using it, even if turned the spidndle off, turn the power switch off, pushed the e-stop or press the brake the motor would still wouldn't stop. Kinda scary when you're machining UHMV at 2000rpm.
do you need to worry about the balance of a fly cutter? seems like if it was too far off, at high speeds, it could changed things a bit? or is it not enough to really worry about?
Your vids are great, I binge watch them
you are a better teacher than my teacher
🤔 So was that at the ending considered cannibalism or cloning 😁
Thanks for the leason 😊
now i have to wait until the next year to see the 2nd part, great...
I hope you get your mill fixed soon and without spending a ton of money
Where do I send flowers and grapes for the mill???
Great video as always Tony!
Dude I love your vids, informative and highly entertaining.
Keep it up mate. Always fun and informative, your videos.
Hey TOT, love the videos but, whatever happened to the Surface Gauge build?
Id love to know
the funny thing about to do lists is that then never die, however you do so keep that in mind when putting stuff off
I installed a 3 phase inverter on my 3 phase Graziano lathe. I can change the speed of the lathe as I get closer to the centre of the speed if necessary. I like it better then just a few speed option I originally get. Anyway, I did not have much choice. I do not have 3 phase in my garage.
"Since this is probably going to be a short video and I need some filler content..."
*creates video in two parts*
Lmao. Glad you gave the cutting speed explanation though.
Thank you for your wonderful videos!