Did run into condensation inside ur intake manifold collecting when cruising or stopping, my intake manifold will collect water droplets that get sucked in causing me to run pig rich and misfire until it clears
No, because ICCHILLER specifically tuned the system to not get too cold like competitors. In fact, as my car was the first S650 to get one they found it was cooling too well and the production version shipping has been tuned to cool slightly less to ensure it does not cause condensation slugging.
I installed a chiller for my C63 after installing the ESS Whipple kit. The coolant flow is first to the ESS heat exchanger and then to the chiller then direct to the Whipple. No bypasses, no switches. Fewer points of failure, for a road car application, and the certainty of at least minimal benefit from the heat exchanger. Coolant exits a heat exchanger at a lower temperature than it enters. Basic thermodynamics. Period.
The intent is to be able to bypass the interchiller and run on the HE when needed. The drag valve is to prevent condensation dripping on the track. Two very important components of a truly streetable setup that races on weekends.
Zero condensation issues with my setup. All coolant lines are sleeved for additional insulation. I always have the option to manually disengage the AC compressor. Most interesting side benefit of the chiller is how it turns the blower into a massive heat sink for the motor. Oil & engine coolant temps stay lower than before the install. Promotes long term engine life.
@user-nq7yw8fu4b condensation from the cabin AC/evaporator core… the compressor must be running to cool the loop for a hit on the track. The point of the valve is to exclude the cabin ac so there is no drip…
Had the car 12 years, cabin AC core never drips condensation on floors or parking lots. Benz designed it not to. Downside is its less accessible and prone to accumulating mold which stinks if the condensor isn't disinfected annually. I only track my car occasionally, no drag racing.
@@MurphysLawGarage perhaps you mentioned this in the video but what fluid do you use for your chiller? De-ionized Water, Propylene glycol coolant, or some mixture of specialized coolants?
@@MurphysLawGarage have you noticed a temperature difference in the cab switching to the r134? Was there any component changes that needed to be made to switch freons?
Well, at the time of freon change the interchiller was installed as well, and that affects the vent temp slightly. R134a runs colder than YF, but the interchiller stole some of the ac capacity so vent temps ended up a few degrees warmer (from 36* to 39*). It ultimately results in it taking a little longer to get the cabin comfortable on a super hot day, on a normal day you can’t tell the difference. No components need to be changed to go from yf to r134.
Great video and clean install. Can I ask why you choose this over FI inner chiller? I went with FI chiller and haven’t seen anything that gets as cold as the FI chiller. I have a few friends with killer chiller and we’re always replacing their AC compressor this system seems to be a copy of Killer so I hope you don’t have issues. Side note you should never use auto climate control if you have a chiller. My car is a daily driver and I only run a chiller no heat exchanger. The few days of winter we have in Houston I simply turn off my AC and monitor my IAT2 temps. Some might think this is a pain but for people who live in extremely cold climates this will be a non issue unless you’re racing. Track days during the winter I’ll run the heat to warm up the Evap coil so AC condenser will kick on. My return fluid temp on a 100+ degree day is average 32-40 degrees. When ambient temp is in the 80’s fluid temp drop sub zero, anything below 80 my fluid temps drop as low as -25 degrees which is impressive on a Gen 3 Roush setup. These chiller work when properly installed, I installed mine myself and my car is always adding timing no matter how hot it is outside. Also like to add as a tip in colder weather it’s a good idea to shut the AC off and let the car idle for a few minutes before turning off the car in case any ice built up in the brick. I’ve never heard of this or had this issue but not bad insurance.
All of the other chillers get too cold - it’s unnecessary to stress the HVAC system to chill the coolant to those levels just for a marginal improvements in HP due to air density increase. The important part, as you mentioned, is maintaining timing. That can be done with liquid temps nearer to vent temps even in 100+ weather. I use auto climate and it works just fine while its hot outside - of course, if Im going to the track the HVAC is pinned on max. Super cold loops during normal driving will cause condensation slugging, as you alluded to, and that can be dangerous to the motor.
@@MurphysLawGarage I will respectfully have to disagree there’s no such thing as too cold. You can make more HP by compressing more colder dense air with less boost and reduce detonation. If your tuner is educated how to tune off the IAT2 table there’s a big difference. It took my tuner a few try’s and had a better understanding when FI sent him an example of a tuning table. This is out of my league so I let those two work it out lol! Ice and killer chiller major flaw is the size of the brick which causes extra stress on HVAC and overloads the compressor there’s several forms taking about this, could be the system wasn’t installed correctly. My friend is a Shelby tech and installed his own and had to replace his compressor twice within a year he switched to FI and has been running fine the past 2 years so the jury’s still out on that one. What pump are you using, I installed Pierburg 400
There is a point of diminishing return, but it depends in the efficiency of the SC bricks - on the gen6 whipple 32* liquid temps result in 50* IAT2’s - no need to go colder except when in drag mode to reserve some cooling capacity while WOT and the compressor shuts off. Its on Whipple’s new Bosch pump that comes with the kit.
So question with the 3-way bypass valve. From my understanding technically it's not necessary at all it's just a safety precaution for if the A/C is off right? Because heat works off the engines coolant system. So in the winter all you have to do is keep the A/C compressor running (that's really all the A/C button does is activate the compressor) right?
The three way allows me to run on the heat exchanger with its very hot outside and I need more AC performance or when its cold outside and I dont want to run the defroster. You dont NEED the 3way+heat exchanger in place, but its a good backup and recommended on a street car. If its a racecar ditch the weight.
Ah so without it it's a sacrifice of comfort vs performance, but with it it's a compromise if in understanding correctly. Without the 3 way it's either you have full cooling to the charge system or full cooling to the cabin. But in the winter it doesn't really matter due to heat being operated from the engine coolant just make sure to leave the A/C engaged correct?
No, the 3 way valve just lets you return the car to its stock cooling setup when needed/wanted. The drag valve is what diverts cabin AC just to the chiller at the flick of a switch to stop the car from dripping water condensation on the track.
I wonder if the liquid manifold location was different on early build cars. My early June 23 built car is like yours with the connection on the firewall. Anyone know where the S550 had the manifold connection. Wild guess, I bet they were using up leftover parts.
Did you know that your desiccant is completely used up after 15 min exposure to atmosphere. Pulling a vacuum does not fix that either. Soooo you need to do it again and replace your desiccant or you will have premature compressor failure.
Yep its the GT500 cap, here it is on ebay: www.ebay.com/itm/185131440432?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=3QNP8ns4SiG&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=A0hMkwNyRNO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
This isn’t designed to cool the cylinder heads, it cools the intake air charge. The CHT is just a few degrees cooler on average, but something like fuel/E30 more directly affects that.
@@MurphysLawGarage I know you can just swap out the valves to get it to fit the r134 attachments but does the a/c hardware have any issues with long term performance in your opinion not being the factory spec?
Valves stay the same, you change the connectors on the gauges to adapt to the YF fittings. YF functions very similarly to R134A so it will not harm components and actually cools better which helps this system perform even better, but you can use either.
Pops is a legend ! He needs to bring out his blue mustang for a special episode !!
I would love that more than you know…
great video, as always
Thanks!
This is what we’ve been waiting for! Let’s go!
This series will be worth the wait!
👏🏽👏🏽 What a great Job MLG, Love the attention to detail. 👏🏽👏🏽
Thanks!
I see what you did there! Glad u linked this for me!
🥶😉
Really looking forward to your next track trip post airbox/icc
We think that 9.9X is in the bag now!
Another great video!! Thanks Julian
You’re welcome!
😅 30:40 spit on that mus"TANG"
WHAT A GREAT IDEA
👍🏼
Did run into condensation inside ur intake manifold collecting when cruising or stopping, my intake manifold will collect water droplets that get sucked in causing me to run pig rich and misfire until it clears
No, because ICCHILLER specifically tuned the system to not get too cold like competitors. In fact, as my car was the first S650 to get one they found it was cooling too well and the production version shipping has been tuned to cool slightly less to ensure it does not cause condensation slugging.
Excellent job mister this should help the car run a couple 10th quick.👍😎🇨🇦🍺
Sure will!
I installed a chiller for my C63 after installing the ESS Whipple kit.
The coolant flow is first to the ESS heat exchanger and then to the chiller then direct to the Whipple. No bypasses, no switches. Fewer points of failure, for a road car application, and the certainty of at least minimal benefit from the heat exchanger.
Coolant exits a heat exchanger at a lower temperature than it enters. Basic thermodynamics. Period.
The intent is to be able to bypass the interchiller and run on the HE when needed. The drag valve is to prevent condensation dripping on the track. Two very important components of a truly streetable setup that races on weekends.
Zero condensation issues with my setup. All coolant lines are sleeved for additional insulation. I always have the option to manually disengage the AC compressor. Most interesting side benefit of the chiller is how it turns the blower into a massive heat sink for the motor. Oil & engine coolant temps stay lower than before the install. Promotes long term engine life.
@user-nq7yw8fu4b condensation from the cabin AC/evaporator core… the compressor must be running to cool the loop for a hit on the track. The point of the valve is to exclude the cabin ac so there is no drip…
Had the car 12 years, cabin AC core never drips condensation on floors or parking lots. Benz designed it not to. Downside is its less accessible and prone to accumulating mold which stinks if the condensor isn't disinfected annually. I only track my car occasionally, no drag racing.
@@MurphysLawGarage perhaps you mentioned this in the video but what fluid do you use for your chiller? De-ionized Water, Propylene glycol coolant, or some mixture of specialized coolants?
Awesome video! This is probably the most detailed video I have seen of an Interchiller. What Freon did you end up using? R134a or 1234y?
Thanks! R134a
@@MurphysLawGarage I’m guessing the car came with the 1234 Freon?
Yep
@@MurphysLawGarage have you noticed a temperature difference in the cab switching to the r134? Was there any component changes that needed to be made to switch freons?
Well, at the time of freon change the interchiller was installed as well, and that affects the vent temp slightly. R134a runs colder than YF, but the interchiller stole some of the ac capacity so vent temps ended up a few degrees warmer (from 36* to 39*). It ultimately results in it taking a little longer to get the cabin comfortable on a super hot day, on a normal day you can’t tell the difference. No components need to be changed to go from yf to r134.
"spit on that thang" 👀
💦
looking good
Thanks Terry!
Great video and clean install. Can I ask why you choose this over FI inner chiller? I went with FI chiller and haven’t seen anything that gets as cold as the FI chiller. I have a few friends with killer chiller and we’re always replacing their AC compressor this system seems to be a copy of Killer so I hope you don’t have issues. Side note you should never use auto climate control if you have a chiller. My car is a daily driver and I only run a chiller no heat exchanger. The few days of winter we have in Houston I simply turn off my AC and monitor my IAT2 temps. Some might think this is a pain but for people who live in extremely cold climates this will be a non issue unless you’re racing. Track days during the winter I’ll run the heat to warm up the Evap coil so AC condenser will kick on. My return fluid temp on a 100+ degree day is average 32-40 degrees. When ambient temp is in the 80’s fluid temp drop sub zero, anything below 80 my fluid temps drop as low as -25 degrees which is impressive on a Gen 3 Roush setup. These chiller work when properly installed, I installed mine myself and my car is always adding timing no matter how hot it is outside. Also like to add as a tip in colder weather it’s a good idea to shut the AC off and let the car idle for a few minutes before turning off the car in case any ice built up in the brick. I’ve never heard of this or had this issue but not bad insurance.
All of the other chillers get too cold - it’s unnecessary to stress the HVAC system to chill the coolant to those levels just for a marginal improvements in HP due to air density increase. The important part, as you mentioned, is maintaining timing. That can be done with liquid temps nearer to vent temps even in 100+ weather. I use auto climate and it works just fine while its hot outside - of course, if Im going to the track the HVAC is pinned on max. Super cold loops during normal driving will cause condensation slugging, as you alluded to, and that can be dangerous to the motor.
@@MurphysLawGarage I will respectfully have to disagree there’s no such thing as too cold. You can make more HP by compressing more colder dense air with less boost and reduce detonation. If your tuner is educated how to tune off the IAT2 table there’s a big difference. It took my tuner a few try’s and had a better understanding when FI sent him an example of a tuning table. This is out of my league so I let those two work it out lol! Ice and killer chiller major flaw is the size of the brick which causes extra stress on HVAC and overloads the compressor there’s several forms taking about this, could be the system wasn’t installed correctly. My friend is a Shelby tech and installed his own and had to replace his compressor twice within a year he switched to FI and has been running fine the past 2 years so the jury’s still out on that one. What pump are you using, I installed Pierburg 400
There is a point of diminishing return, but it depends in the efficiency of the SC bricks - on the gen6 whipple 32* liquid temps result in 50* IAT2’s - no need to go colder except when in drag mode to reserve some cooling capacity while WOT and the compressor shuts off. Its on Whipple’s new Bosch pump that comes with the kit.
So question with the 3-way bypass valve. From my understanding technically it's not necessary at all it's just a safety precaution for if the A/C is off right? Because heat works off the engines coolant system. So in the winter all you have to do is keep the A/C compressor running (that's really all the A/C button does is activate the compressor) right?
The three way allows me to run on the heat exchanger with its very hot outside and I need more AC performance or when its cold outside and I dont want to run the defroster. You dont NEED the 3way+heat exchanger in place, but its a good backup and recommended on a street car. If its a racecar ditch the weight.
Ah so without it it's a sacrifice of comfort vs performance, but with it it's a compromise if in understanding correctly. Without the 3 way it's either you have full cooling to the charge system or full cooling to the cabin. But in the winter it doesn't really matter due to heat being operated from the engine coolant just make sure to leave the A/C engaged correct?
No, the 3 way valve just lets you return the car to its stock cooling setup when needed/wanted. The drag valve is what diverts cabin AC just to the chiller at the flick of a switch to stop the car from dripping water condensation on the track.
Ah so the 3 way is just preference is all
Yes, used as a backup cooling system or to take load off of the hvac when its very hot 95*+
I wonder if the liquid manifold location was different on early build cars. My early June 23 built car is like yours with the connection on the firewall. Anyone know where the S550 had the manifold connection. Wild guess, I bet they were using up leftover parts.
It may be completely random.
Any link to brackets used on the bmr crash bar?
www.speedwaymotors.com/All-In-One-Roll-Bar-Accessory-Clamps,42491.html?sku=91032866-1.25&CSEGoogle&CSE&CSEGOOGLE&gad_source=1
What is the part number for the BMR front lightweight bumper support? Thanks.
Here ya go:
www.beefcakeracing.com/bsf760h/
Where did you purchase the foam protection you used? Thanks
a.co/d/3DDTzxp
Did you know that your desiccant is completely used up after 15 min exposure to atmosphere. Pulling a vacuum does not fix that either. Soooo you need to do it again and replace your desiccant or you will have premature compressor failure.
Old R12 theory/practice, modern desiccants are significantly more robust and can recover. (Per modern automotive HVAC engineers) 😉
the oil cap did you change it to the gt 500 one that says 5-50 i was thinking of doing that but want not sure if it fits if not what one is that?
Yep its the GT500 cap, here it is on ebay:
www.ebay.com/itm/185131440432?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=3QNP8ns4SiG&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=A0hMkwNyRNO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
What's the CHT cruising around? I'm usually at 180-210 degrees depending on how I'm driving my supercharged Dark Horse.
190’s
@@MurphysLawGarage Wait so what was it normally? And does it climb hard after pulls?
This isn’t designed to cool the cylinder heads, it cools the intake air charge. The CHT is just a few degrees cooler on average, but something like fuel/E30 more directly affects that.
What are you doing to deal with the condesation inside of the intake?
There’s too much moving hot air inside for that to be an issue.
I have the same AC set up as you... its rare you say? Just curious on the set up. Is the inline manifold a newer build or something?
It seems random at this point, possibly production date based.
What race track allows you to run with your AC on?
The drag valve removes the cabin AC from the circuit, so no condensation drips as long as you properly insulate the system.
@@MurphysLawGarage Oh, I misunderstood. Very nice.
*that 1234 refrigerant is expensive.*
Yep, thats why we didn’t use it.
What refrigeration did you put pack in?
R134a
@@MurphysLawGarage I know you can just swap out the valves to get it to fit the r134 attachments but does the a/c hardware have any issues with long term performance in your opinion not being the factory spec?
Valves stay the same, you change the connectors on the gauges to adapt to the YF fittings. YF functions very similarly to R134A so it will not harm components and actually cools better which helps this system perform even better, but you can use either.