Just completed this job, you will need a small impact driver to remove that 13mm nut that attaches the bellow to the shock, also make sure that when you reattach the bellow to the new shock, it is firmly in place. I'd also recommend torquing everything down with it under load. I did it exactly the same way in this video but apparently I did not have the top mount firmly seated. Using a bottle jack under the wheel you can compress everything slightly and then torque everything...worked great for me.
I almost spat out my drink when the dealer told me it would cost $888 to replace both rear shock absorbers. I told them my dad is a retired mechanic and I used to do all his invoicing when I was 15 at his shop. Even at $120 an hour, it costs about let's say $100 per shock and that's list price plus labor which is about 30 minutes each so 1H. That's roughly $400. That means you're charging me almost $798 bucks for labor. The guy asked me "if you know so much about cars, then why do you come to the dealer for your oil changes." I was like "because for $69, I get my oil changed and a laugh. Not just because the price comes out to $69, but because I get to hear the things that may need replacing and the pricing. Plus you also do an inspection for me and the me what's wrong so I can fix the big things later on myself." He shut up after that. I legit don't mind giving them the business, but I do get that a lot of those places are union and need higher prices, but damn that is robbery right there.
Late to comment but if you happen to see this could this be a driveway job with a floor jack, or is a lift needed to get the strut out/in through the bottom? Thanks for the videos, helped me and my Mazda out many times!
No one on TH-cam explains what direction the bottom of the shock gets installed. The replacement shock absorber has a flat side and a curved side where the bottom mounting bolt goes through it. So what direction should the curved side be facing. In the video, it looks like it faces outward; but not entirely sure.
Please be aware that you increase the torque of a nut by every click that the wrench makes. So if the torque is 24 pounds, every click of the wrench will increase the torque, 2 clicks will increase the torque to 26 pounds and so on.
So, this must be a torsion bar suspension system, correct? I've been reading a lot about multi-link vs torsion and ... well, to be honest, i dont see much of a difference when driving hard on twisty roads, really. Driven hondas, toyotas and my mazda3. I can see the traction and control potential of a multi-link keeping more rubber on the ground but... honestly, is it really that much different for a regular everyday driver????
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Just completed this job, you will need a small impact driver to remove that 13mm nut that attaches the bellow to the shock, also make sure that when you reattach the bellow to the new shock, it is firmly in place. I'd also recommend torquing everything down with it under load. I did it exactly the same way in this video but apparently I did not have the top mount firmly seated. Using a bottle jack under the wheel you can compress everything slightly and then torque everything...worked great for me.
+Pastor Fred Thanks for the tip!
@@1AAuto Thank you all for making so many great instructional videos that keep us driveway wrenches informed!
Would have been nice to include the tear down of the old shock, and reassembly of the new one.
"Just a thought"
I almost spat out my drink when the dealer told me it would cost $888 to replace both rear shock absorbers. I told them my dad is a retired mechanic and I used to do all his invoicing when I was 15 at his shop. Even at $120 an hour, it costs about let's say $100 per shock and that's list price plus labor which is about 30 minutes each so 1H. That's roughly $400. That means you're charging me almost $798 bucks for labor. The guy asked me "if you know so much about cars, then why do you come to the dealer for your oil changes." I was like "because for $69, I get my oil changed and a laugh. Not just because the price comes out to $69, but because I get to hear the things that may need replacing and the pricing. Plus you also do an inspection for me and the me what's wrong so I can fix the big things later on myself." He shut up after that.
I legit don't mind giving them the business, but I do get that a lot of those places are union and need higher prices, but damn that is robbery right there.
Doubling the rock bottom price is not robbery but $1500 yes that place would not deserve business
Late to comment but if you happen to see this could this be a driveway job with a floor jack, or is a lift needed to get the strut out/in through the bottom? Thanks for the videos, helped me and my Mazda out many times!
The question is can you get that long strut or shock off and out with just a floor jack or a hoist is needed?
The sucker looks like a mile long. 😁
Did everything the way it was explained, great video, but the right rear has an audible squeak. Any suggestions? Please!!
Very well explain and Nice tips for put the wheel without Hurt the back
Great work, great tips, appreciate your sharing. Again thank you.
No one on TH-cam explains what direction the bottom of the shock gets installed. The replacement shock absorber has a flat side and a curved side where the bottom mounting bolt goes through it. So what direction should the curved side be facing. In the video, it looks like it faces outward; but not entirely sure.
Why didn’t you show swapping over the top mount? What’s involved with that?
Quick and easy. Thanks for the tutorial.
Legend has it that this veericle is still on the road
Question, can you get to the Rear Shock housing inside the car itself after takes thing apart? I have some BC coil overs and I need to Adjust them
What is that tool you used to get the correct pressure for putting on the nuts for the suspension?
+Thomas Fobert Are you referring to the torque wrench? Instructions and a tool list are located on the website. Thanks for watching!
Will you do a video on the 2015 Mazda 3 for front/rear struts?
+Ephemeral Dancer We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1AAuto.com
@@1AAuto awesome. Thank you!!
Tengo un problema yo le hize el cambio y todo pero aun sigue el ruido de atras ayúdame
Please be aware that you increase the torque of a nut by every click that the wrench makes. So if the torque is 24 pounds, every click of the wrench will increase the torque, 2 clicks will increase the torque to 26 pounds and so on.
Not with digitals
Did he say "beericle" at 00:44?
So, this must be a torsion bar suspension system, correct? I've been reading a lot about multi-link vs torsion and ... well, to be honest, i dont see much of a difference when driving hard on twisty roads, really. Driven hondas, toyotas and my mazda3. I can see the traction and control potential of a multi-link keeping more rubber on the ground but... honestly, is it really that much different for a regular everyday driver????
hpw high dp I have to jack up the car ?
Top notch video
what if the shocks don't have the plastic covers? mine don't have them
The dirt will get inside and wear them out fast
My plastic covers are rattling on my old ones - Is this common? Do new ones also rattle or is this a sign to replace?
You guys skipped the shock mount
You noticed that too. All of a sudden the top mount was magically installed on the new shock.
Clear! thanks
Thank you
Is this the Mazda BM/BN?
BL
thansk
👍
Nice
Spunktastic,,😘