Talking about Whiteout as a barrier inside of a canister.... What about sooting up the inside with a cutting touch burning acetylene (without the oxygen)? That might work.
The canister welding to the billet maybe from cheap whiteout with no zinc? Or possibly a few missed spots in the covering when applying the whiteout since the canister was so long and hard to see inside of?
I have been pondering how they got things flush in the old days as well and here is what I have come up with first clamps made from wood have been around for thousands of years, the screw press has been around for just as long likely starting with wooden olive oil or winepress. a skilled carpenter would be able to easily make a smaller version of a screw press which really is all a vise is. even a bad blacksmith would be able to make a pair of metal jaws that he could rivet onto the vise.
We learn every day its all about the attempt good bad or indifferent Timm keep on truckin my friend i really liked the pattern it was random but thats what you were trying for so its a win i my mind
..Amazing what something most folks throw away can become. to me it kinda resembles a gray smoked and burnt bone. Nice work !! I'm glad ya didn't just chunk it in the scrap barrel...
Thanks Ol James, I'm having a lot of fun playing around with this. Thanks for your kind words and all your support viewers like you make all the difference. Have a great day and thanks again...
BIG DOG FORGE I really like your channel, I'm an engineer by trade, but I do enjoy forging hot steel, when I get the chance. I prefer to do all mine by hand, just my preference. I guess if I did it every day it would be a bit too taxing on the joints, in that scenario I think I would have to buy a metal forging press. I don't think my neighbours would appreciate a power hammer thumping at the weekend lol
Sweet, I really enjoy watching these vids of yours. The pattern at the end almost had a black and white smokey type look to it, on the first side at least. Honestly, with ALL of the effort you've put forth in these canisters, I'd love to see you get and use some proper powdered steel, nickel etc. I think you deserve the satisfaction of having a successful billet with good performance qualities in it as well as more dramatic/beautiful contrasts and patterns, although I know that using the scrap is at least half the fun 😎. Btw, are you by any chance on any of the knifemaking/ bladesmithing forums? If not, I'd highly recommend at least joining bladeforums, as there are a number of guys with a lot of experience who can provide you with good help, answers to questions and constructive criticism on projects such as these. It can potentially save a good amount of time, materials and even money lol... I'm sure all three have been the case for me at least on a few occasions over the last 6 or so years of this "hobby" (passion) of mine lol. Anyway, thanks for sharing, looking forward to more! 👍🙂
Thank you so much for the kind words. I haven't really taken the time to look into a knife making forum of any kind but I believe it will be my next step, if you know of a good place to start I would appreciate any information to get me going in the right direction. I have also been looking around for powdered Steel but I'm not sure which would be best to start with I'm thinking 1084 or maybe a 1095 if you have any thoughts please let me know. And thanks again for taking the time to check out my channel, and thank you so much for the input I do appreciate it
My goodness, sorry for the late reply! I had read you reply shortly after you sent it and meant to get back to you a little later and apparently completely forgot lol. Anyway, I would say a good forum to start with first would be "BladeForums", which is www - bladeforums - com (but with "dots" of course) There are a number of great forums with great info for bladesmithing, but BladeForums has the most members and you will pretty much always have your questions answered or responded to fairly soon within the same day, as the other forums tend to have fewer members with less frequent posting, although they are still great and offer a wealth of information. But to not make it too confusing, I'll just start with recommending this one first. :) So after you go to BladeForums . com and register (for free), the way to get to the bladesmithing section is, from the home page, first click on "Forum" link near the top left of the page, then choose the "General Knife Maker's Discussion" forum, and finally choose the "Shop Talk - BladeSmith Questions and Answers" sub-forum. To start a new thread to ask a question, just click on where it says "Post New Thread" and give the thread a title, then say or ask whatever you want. I hope that isn't too confusing to follow, as the website is very easy to navigate. I just wanted to let ya know where to go for asking knifemaking and forging questions, as new members will tend to post their question in the wrong area or "sub-forum" when they first post. Regarding the powdered steel, I personally would choose to get 1084 over 1095. Firstly because the heat treating of 1084 is much less finicky.. "heat to just above non-magnetic and quench", whereas 1095 requires at least a good 5-10 minute soak at a more precise temperature in order to get the most out of the steel. Basically, you can produce a much better performing knife using less precise methods using 1084 than you can using the same methods with 1095. And secondly, 1084 tends to usually have more Manganese in it, which causes the steel to etch a bit darker, thus providing more contrast between it and the nickel steel. Btw, my recommendation of which forum to sign up for first is purely based on making and forging knives. If you want to go to a forum more based on blacksmithing in general (forging ornaments etc.) then I believe "iforgeiron" (.com) is one of the better ones to go to, although it's been a long time since I've visited the site personally. Sorry for the super long post, I tend to have difficulty in summarizing my words lol, but I hope it helps you out a bit anyway. If anything I've mentioned here produces more questions, please don't hesitate to ask them. Also, if you want to know the links to the other knifemaking/ bladesmithing forums I talked about above, just let me know. :) -------------------- Oh, one more thing! lol.. If you want to search bladeforums for something specific, don't use the search bar at the top of the page, as it comes up with hardly any results. There is a wealth of knowledge on their site from all the past questions that have already been asked and answered, and all the topics that have been discussed, including canister welding. BladeForums has been around for over 20 years I believe, so virtually any subject you can think of has probably been discussed already, but don't let that dissuade you from asking you own questions! Anyway, here is a link to the "custom search engine" that you want to use when searching BladeForums, I just hope the link shows up for you here, as sometimes links don't show up in youtube comments (please let me know if it doesn't) Here it is: cse.google.com/cse/publicurl...35:iqyc7cbzhci
better late than never, I guess... watched the first video and had an idea, when you are stacking the grindings and ss cuttings,, why dont you try and use the square bar and hammer/press to help compact it more.In the last couple of months or so, I have been forge welding, some 1-1/4 drilling line, cultavator discs,etc and had some success and lots of fails but a great fun.
Could you mix just a little charcoal powder under your steel dust to rise the carbon content? And if you would use no carbon powder but little carbon pieces, they would maybe produce a pattern, i think. That would be cool.
Could you use bone or leather charcoal to help put carbon into the tubing, then just forge weld and fold, and weld it all together. Instead of cutting the canister off in the end. Might increase it to a more usable mass and allow for fire scale reduction
I'm not really sure I've not done much of this but I like the idea of something as a barrier, trying to get the canister often these things is next to impossible sometimes, but I do like the charcoal idea I'll have to give it a try thanks for the input and thanks for watching.
Hi Tim, enjoying your videos a lot and feeling the urge to learn to forge. This video was very interesting particularly because in the UK we have no access to powdered metal in knife grades and you just showed that grinder bucket can be done! At least its an option rather than an impossible idea. In the US you can get Nickle and 1080 powders easily. Your can of powder shown in another video from K&G thanks for the supplier as mentioned in Q&A costs you just under 17 bucks, for me with shipping that can becomes 92 bucks before imports duties and taxes!!! Damascus fascinates me and was wondering if you think that a stainless can/container would separate more easily from the material within, as the whiteout trick didn't work too well for you.
this is a bit of an old video but I am curious, (not a bladesmith). When you cleaned the two broken pieces to forge weld them you could see that there were void spaces that I assumed you would try to weld during the forge welding process but were trapped between the two pieces, (leaving air pockets). In an effort to ensure that they fuse together would it work to fill those voids with powdered steel prior to attempting to forge weld them? I am looking at bladesmithing as a hobby but as I know very little starting out I'm am just curious if you can lower the chances of blade failure with little tweaks like filling voids like that.
He coated them in borax and the fit between the two peices wasn't perfect. So the borax worked it's way in there and than as he rewelded the broken pieces back together the air pocket would/should have been worked out.
Out of curiosity. How did the knife turn out? I've noticed people mention adding carbon dust or something to boost the carbon content. I've thought of something similar with cable Damascus. My thought is to mix up some borax with a steel powder and carbon dust and, when the strands are expanded, sprinkle it on the inside and close it up. I'm curious what it'd do.
Talking about Whiteout as a barrier inside of a canister.... What about sooting up the inside with a cutting touch burning acetylene (without the oxygen)? That might work.
I was wondering if that could be done turned out pretty cool thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
The best thing the uses lead graphite powder
The canister welding to the billet maybe from cheap whiteout with no zinc? Or possibly a few missed spots in the covering when applying the whiteout since the canister was so long and hard to see inside of?
Top marks for sticking with it and salvaging what you could from the project!! Well done!!
Always interesting
I think following your lead in getting this far, and then "twisting" the bar may produce very interesting results in the pattern...
I have been pondering how they got things flush in the old days as well and here is what I have come up with first clamps made from wood have been around for thousands of years, the screw press has been around for just as long likely starting with wooden olive oil or winepress. a skilled carpenter would be able to easily make a smaller version of a screw press which really is all a vise is. even a bad blacksmith would be able to make a pair of metal jaws that he could rivet onto the vise.
13:47 who noticed the spoon balanced it self
Thank -you for sharing. I am so impressed with what you can do with a bit of junk and filings... Well done..
You can try taking the dust and straining it on a a window screen and that should speed up separating the dust
That's a great idea I think I'll try that next time, Thanks for the info Take care
BIG DOG FORGE
No problem let me know how goes
Some of the people that made the comment about the whiteout being a problem or usually not Nike makers trust Jade Nelson
I would actually think about recycling it all the way making yourself a mini Bessemer might be fun?
Using the grindings is taking recycling to the max. Interesting project Tim, thank you.
We learn every day its all about the attempt good bad or indifferent Timm keep on truckin my friend i really liked the pattern it was random but thats what you were trying for so its a win i my mind
..Amazing what something most folks throw away can become. to me it kinda resembles a gray smoked and burnt bone. Nice work !! I'm glad ya didn't just chunk it in the scrap barrel...
Thanks Ol James, I'm having a lot of fun playing around with this.
Thanks for your kind words and all your support viewers like you make all the difference.
Have a great day and thanks again...
BIG DOG FORGE I really like your channel, I'm an engineer by trade, but I do enjoy forging hot steel, when I get the chance. I prefer to do all mine by hand, just my preference. I guess if I did it every day it would be a bit too taxing on the joints, in that scenario I think I would have to buy a metal forging press. I don't think my neighbours would appreciate a power hammer thumping at the weekend lol
Pa it like gold maybe then dry it to help get the contaminants out.
Sweet, I really enjoy watching these vids of yours. The pattern at the end almost had a black and white smokey type look to it, on the first side at least. Honestly, with ALL of the effort you've put forth in these canisters, I'd love to see you get and use some proper powdered steel, nickel etc. I think you deserve the satisfaction of having a successful billet with good performance qualities in it as well as more dramatic/beautiful contrasts and patterns, although I know that using the scrap is at least half the fun 😎. Btw, are you by any chance on any of the knifemaking/ bladesmithing forums? If not, I'd highly recommend at least joining bladeforums, as there are a number of guys with a lot of experience who can provide you with good help, answers to questions and constructive criticism on projects such as these. It can potentially save a good amount of time, materials and even money lol... I'm sure all three have been the case for me at least on a few occasions over the last 6 or so years of this "hobby" (passion) of mine lol. Anyway, thanks for sharing, looking forward to more! 👍🙂
Thank you so much for the kind words. I haven't really taken the time to look into a knife making forum of any kind but I believe it will be my next step, if you know of a good place to start I would appreciate any information to get me going in the right direction. I have also been looking around for powdered Steel but I'm not sure which would be best to start with I'm thinking 1084 or maybe a 1095 if you have any thoughts please let me know.
And thanks again for taking the time to check out my channel, and thank you so much for the input I do appreciate it
My goodness, sorry for the late reply! I had read you reply shortly after you sent it and meant to get back to you a little later and apparently completely forgot lol.
Anyway, I would say a good forum to start with first would be "BladeForums", which is www - bladeforums - com (but with "dots" of course) There are a number of great forums with great info for bladesmithing, but BladeForums has the most members and you will pretty much always have your questions answered or responded to fairly soon within the same day, as the other forums tend to have fewer members with less frequent posting, although they are still great and offer a wealth of information. But to not make it too confusing, I'll just start with recommending this one first. :)
So after you go to BladeForums . com and register (for free), the way to get to the bladesmithing section is, from the home page, first click on "Forum" link near the top left of the page, then choose the "General Knife Maker's Discussion" forum, and finally choose the "Shop Talk - BladeSmith Questions and Answers" sub-forum. To start a new thread to ask a question, just click on where it says "Post New Thread" and give the thread a title, then say or ask whatever you want.
I hope that isn't too confusing to follow, as the website is very easy to navigate. I just wanted to let ya know where to go for asking knifemaking and forging questions, as new members will tend to post their question in the wrong area or "sub-forum" when they first post.
Regarding the powdered steel, I personally would choose to get 1084 over 1095. Firstly because the heat treating of 1084 is much less finicky.. "heat to just above non-magnetic and quench", whereas 1095 requires at least a good 5-10 minute soak at a more precise temperature in order to get the most out of the steel. Basically, you can produce a much better performing knife using less precise methods using 1084 than you can using the same methods with 1095. And secondly, 1084 tends to usually have more Manganese in it, which causes the steel to etch a bit darker, thus providing more contrast between it and the nickel steel.
Btw, my recommendation of which forum to sign up for first is purely based on making and forging knives. If you want to go to a forum more based on blacksmithing in general (forging ornaments etc.) then I believe "iforgeiron" (.com) is one of the better ones to go to, although it's been a long time since I've visited the site personally.
Sorry for the super long post, I tend to have difficulty in summarizing my words lol, but I hope it helps you out a bit anyway. If anything I've mentioned here produces more questions, please don't hesitate to ask them. Also, if you want to know the links to the other knifemaking/ bladesmithing forums I talked about above, just let me know. :)
--------------------
Oh, one more thing! lol.. If you want to search bladeforums for something specific, don't use the search bar at the top of the page, as it comes up with hardly any results. There is a wealth of knowledge on their site from all the past questions that have already been asked and answered, and all the topics that have been discussed, including canister welding. BladeForums has been around for over 20 years I believe, so virtually any subject you can think of has probably been discussed already, but don't let that dissuade you from asking you own questions!
Anyway, here is a link to the "custom search engine" that you want to use when searching BladeForums, I just hope the link shows up for you here, as sometimes links don't show up in youtube comments (please let me know if it doesn't) Here it is: cse.google.com/cse/publicurl...35:iqyc7cbzhci
Have seen and had limited success with the zinc trick. Some on mokume gane as well. Still, sometimes it works great.
I think it may have somthing to do with a narrow temperature window,
That could be. Still a fun project.
better late than never, I guess... watched the first video and had an idea, when you are stacking the grindings and ss cuttings,, why dont you try and use the square bar and hammer/press to help compact it more.In the last couple of months or so, I have been forge welding, some 1-1/4 drilling line, cultavator discs,etc and had some success and lots of fails but a great fun.
Thank you I appreciate the input I will give that a try.
Could you mix just a little charcoal powder under your steel dust to rise the carbon content?
And if you would use no carbon powder but little carbon pieces, they would maybe produce a pattern, i think.
That would be cool.
Could you use bone or leather charcoal to help put carbon into the tubing, then just forge weld and fold, and weld it all together. Instead of cutting the canister off in the end. Might increase it to a more usable mass and allow for fire scale reduction
I'm not really sure I've not done much of this but I like the idea of something as a barrier, trying to get the canister often these things is next to impossible sometimes, but I do like the charcoal idea I'll have to give it a try thanks for the input and thanks for watching.
So, this is basically tamahagane reinvented? Great idea.
how about making the canister part of the Damascus using carbon steel canister ?
Hi Tim, enjoying your videos a lot and feeling the urge to learn to forge. This video was very interesting particularly because in the UK we have no access to powdered metal in knife grades and you just showed that grinder bucket can be done! At least its an option rather than an impossible idea. In the US you can get Nickle and 1080 powders easily. Your can of powder shown in another video from K&G thanks for the supplier as mentioned in Q&A costs you just under 17 bucks, for me with shipping that can becomes 92 bucks before imports duties and taxes!!! Damascus fascinates me and was wondering if you think that a stainless can/container would separate more easily from the material within, as the whiteout trick didn't work too well for you.
could you do a crucible billet with your grinding bucket cast off's then forge and pattern weld a knife .
So what happens after you peel off the stainless on the drillbits
this is a bit of an old video but I am curious, (not a bladesmith). When you cleaned the two broken pieces to forge weld them you could see that there were void spaces that I assumed you would try to weld during the forge welding process but were trapped between the two pieces, (leaving air pockets). In an effort to ensure that they fuse together would it work to fill those voids with powdered steel prior to attempting to forge weld them? I am looking at bladesmithing as a hobby but as I know very little starting out I'm am just curious if you can lower the chances of blade failure with little tweaks like filling voids like that.
He coated them in borax and the fit between the two peices wasn't perfect. So the borax worked it's way in there and than as he rewelded the broken pieces back together the air pocket would/should have been worked out.
Nice effort!
Thanks Euel.
He made dirtmascus
Out of curiosity. How did the knife turn out? I've noticed people mention adding carbon dust or something to boost the carbon content. I've thought of something similar with cable Damascus. My thought is to mix up some borax with a steel powder and carbon dust and, when the strands are expanded, sprinkle it on the inside and close it up. I'm curious what it'd do.
Far Freaking out… I am learning so much from you
Have you ever tried making Damascus out of the chipds from a machine shop?
try to make a knife from a pair of tongs
🌐🌹🙌🔨⚒😯good day thanks