Massive props for telling everyone you're not an expert at these things, and for those who are to tell you if you've missed anything. Not many people are willing to admit shortcomings, however minor, especially in technical fields that they're otherwise very knowledgeable about. Bloody good on you guys for always being honest!
“We’re all here to learn about stuff so we’re not talking shit on the Internet.” A mantra for life if ever there was one. Good on you fellas this is bloody excellent stuff. Really informative.
There is also a difference in oil pumps. The Na spec is 19mm wide and Turbo is 21mm. 10% bigger to match the bigger piston oil squirters and oil feed for the turbo.
I’m following this build with great interest. Not because I have a TD42…. Because my workmate has one in his patrol and it’s the slowest thing I’ve ever been in
Yep, slow, but they go forever. My TD 42 did 450,000 kms, wore the lumps off the cam. Stuck a new cam in it, didn't touch the rest. Still going at 700,000 km Regular oil changes and filters are the key.
Once borrowed a mates TD42 powered GQ to tow a car back from a few hours down the road. Struggling to maintain an honest 90kmh was a first for me! He explained it was reliable... I countered by offering reliability wasn't hard to come by when you're only making about 20hp per litre haha!
TH-cam needs to get their act together and show your videos to more people. I feel like you have really hit your stride with the over all quality of the presentation and production values.
Great to see Al fiddling with his favorite motor again, he knows deep down the td is superior to the cummins 12v I have an td myself and i am going to do a rebuild some time in the future, so this is amazing. great with all the tips and tricks, and fantastic that you show us the turbo - N/A differences. i was planing to read trough the forums, so this saved me a lot of time!!
@@crezychameau I don't know about these specific engines, but some engines - especially with siamesed bores - have 'steam passages' or drillings to allow coolant through and avoid causing areas where circulation is poor and the coolant can get hot enough to boil - or, worse, air pockets can form. Basically, they're auxiliary bleeds.
@@crezychameau between the bores is a hole approximately 2 .5mm diameter from memory which runs down on an angle to the side water jacket, we normally clean them out with a long drill bit.
Dead set probably the most accurate info all in the one place that I’ve seen for these. It’s nearly dangerous talking about TDs on the internet, everyone is an expert so I avoid it haha. Did well noting most of the differences, super accurate awesome video. 🙏🏻
I dont think you mentioned it, but you should use new head bolts on these every time, that angle actually stretches the bolt a very specific amount, if someone ever went too far or didnt lubricate it properly while torquing it in the past the bolt will not hold enough tension and you're going to be blowing gaskets.
When I rebuilt my Silvertop TD42, I had a fair bit of difficulty getting the injection pump timing correct so will be interested to see how you guys go when you get to that point
Great vid! Wish my old boy (former mechanic) cared as much as you do when he brought my first car... 82 petrol fj troopy form Noosa... "no beach work"... aka rust bucket!!!!
Fantastic relaxed communication!!! I like it. Plus this is VERY encouraging. Am in the middle of building a turbo spec motor out of a N/A 94 blacktop and an old cooked turbo motor I bought years ago sitting in the back of the shed. A lot of the parts were in very good condition except for two pistons + the block is cracked in each parent bore. ATM it is just a pile of parts sitting on the floor waiting for the machine shop to complete the work I cant do. One other thing is the TD42 Turbo has a different oil pump that pumps more oil, bolts straight in.
Big thanks Lads from nz its great watching guys doin stuff they love i think ya owe john more than a few beersies he looked bored asf lol liking the td42 content
Nailed it! Thank goodness you sleeved it! Watch out when sealing the front cover. Maybe avoid eg 3 bond or gen Nissan goo which dries too quick and fails easily.
Td42 rocker studs wear against the valve stem, causing a false reading when checking clearances. Can be easliy machined. The machining of the block with the liners out is great advise. Pistons will grab on liner hotspots shorty after rebuild if not corrected
I have a spare silvertop in my shed but I don't think I'll ever have the cash to rebuild it, it's a dream tho, thanks for sharing the knowledge, I can always refer back to this if I ever get there !
I had one of my TDs lose compression in cylinder 1 and starting to get low on a few others. I pulled the pistons out and checked the bores for spec, gave it a quick clean up hone and chucked some new rings and rod bearings in and slapped it back together without even pulling the block from the patrol. Made it a new truck which continues to this day running 20 psi and still towed 3.5t at 105kmh and 88 degree temps. They are not as scary to rebuild or as expensive as you may think. Just get in and do it and chip away at it and spread the cost
Only way to turn the kettle off is to build the cooling system to "Derk Spec"including one of his water pumps. I've done it to the letter and I can tow 3t and stay under 95*c
@@DieselAddictiongenuine thermostat and rad tends to work better, definitely genuine thermostat derk says the same thing. seen people running hot or even too cold with after market tstats
@@chookx mine was recently running too cold with an aftermarket thermostat, swapped it for a genuine one and waiting to go for a good run to see if its better.
Also all the plastic skirts between the guards and chassis, around the radiator, and between the bonnet and the radiator support panel. I raced one on a stock water pumpand it never got hot until it stopped.
@@chookx I carry 1 ton of tools all the time 205kwatw 1130nm stroker, and never gets too hot or run cold, the quick as thermostat blocks off the bypass hole in the bottom of the housing making the coolant flow through the radiator instead of circulating around the block.
The oil chamber setup in the turbo TD42 piston is interesting, the VG30DETT actually has an extremely similar setup as well, where the oil squirter squirts oil into a chamber in the piston just like the TD42 does, whereas the regular VG30DE just sprays oil in the vague direction of the underside of the piston crown :P
You can also install pre-frozen liners with a sacrificial fan clutch as the alloy face fits nicely and the mounting flange gives a perfect spot to hit ... apparently
The pads on the rockers that contact the top of the valves wear a groove in them, so when it's noisy and you need to set them, you can't get an accurate measurement. Hell common problem. I used to set them with it running and just slowly tightened the clearance till it just stopped ticking. Works good
Thought the block might be getting a head stud kit instead of bolts. Is the head getting the coolant bypass fitted? Cant wait for the injection side of things video.
14:48 I would not mind a dollar for every TD and TB tappet set I did back in the day. Due every major service when I worked for both Ford (Maverick) and Nissan (GQ Patrol) in their hayday. 🙂
Good morning. Been a long time sub but for whatever reason never tuned in. Being bored to death of ls swaps and will it run videos I scrolled past your channel. Again. Man I've been missing put. I really enjoy what you do. Keep it up. 🍻
I remember a friend got one of the 3 litres when they first came out, I thought it was a bit of a slug and you really had to matt the gas to get up steep inclines whereas the 42 had sufficient power to handle most occassions at half throttle (both turbos)
The CC capacity of turbo pre comps is greater, when you stroke them you have to re calculate compression ratio and have shorter rods made to bring it back to factory specifications.
I was curious with when you did the valve set, obviously the motor isn't at a stage that it can run and get warm yet. What did you do the valve set to, as any spec that I can find is when the motor is warm?
I can chime in that a certain Mr or mrs cylinder head in Victoria supplied a TD42 head that after being fitted broke a rocker arm and 12 months later after not being registered/driven broke two more. Obviously warranty was gone by that point but effectively would have been breaking rocker arms in succession. I would imagine there was something with the valve and guide or spring pressures that the stock rockers hated. 4K head did fix said issue. And just a tip, paint mark one corner of the bolts after the first step and then you can tell which ones have been done from that point forward at the other steps
I'm from Canada and I have a TD27, I'm having reliability issues and I cant seem to find a good source for quality parts for these engines. any tips? I'm on my second head gasket and second set of pistons now.
I will just be run in engine oil for the bores and pistons. The black stuff is molybdenum assembly lube used for high pressure areas and the red stuff is "sticky" assembly lube used where you want it to stay until flushed out with normal engine running.
Best to use running in oil as it doesn't have friction modifiers that can prevent the rings from bedding in. Turbo engines tend to not suffer as much from this as the boost pressure forces the rings against the cylinder wall. Ask me how I know, made that mistake with my first engine rebuild.
Engine australia do a kit to convert your non turbo 1hz to a turbo spec. Using hybrid pistons (1hz top with 1hdt lower) utilising the larger gudgeon pin of the 1hdt
Mate I enjoy every video up load. I learn thank you. Questions I see on the old block that the piston don't go all the way to the top. So low combustion? Secound you put sealer on the baults on the thread and head. Why the threads. Are the bolts going into a water jacket The injector cap has changed. More fuel. But does this burn out the injectors more do to heat ? Take care guys. Be safe)
John’s OnlyFans 😏 bit.ly/3OAXIHn
I knew it...
🥵
i came twice
Got me good, damn it
Oh yo mofo's just been rolled....
Massive props for telling everyone you're not an expert at these things, and for those who are to tell you if you've missed anything. Not many people are willing to admit shortcomings, however minor, especially in technical fields that they're otherwise very knowledgeable about. Bloody good on you guys for always being honest!
“We’re all here to learn about stuff so we’re not talking shit on the Internet.”
A mantra for life if ever there was one. Good on you fellas this is bloody excellent stuff. Really informative.
Words to live by indeed
Today I learned that the valve reliefs on a TD42 turbo spec head look like dog’s bollicks…
There is also a difference in oil pumps. The Na spec is 19mm wide and Turbo is 21mm. 10% bigger to match the bigger piston oil squirters and oil feed for the turbo.
Thanks for sharing mate!
Yep, can run into low oil pressure issues running turbo squirters and N/A pump
It’s actually very refreshing to see positive contributions in the comment section.
Was about to ask if that was the case but you already answered my question.
We did replace the oil pump but I didn't check this. The machine shop was all over the TD stuff and ordered it for me.
Al's presentation coupled with great audio visuals + editing makes this a pleasure to watch. 20 mins felt like 5 mins.
Having a mate like John must be great, can tell he’s a master at his craft.
I love how John builds engines just because he likes to, seems like a nice and knowledgeable guy.
The fart sound effect while he was torquing the head bolts up absolutely done me 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👌🏻👍🏻
That music had no right being that sensual.
Did you bend a push rod listening to it?
It’s the perfect soundtrack for hand greasing your bore holes
The cost of a copywriter strike lol😂
Ahah I was vibing hard
That's what the assembly lube is for.
I’m following this build with great interest. Not because I have a TD42…. Because my workmate has one in his patrol and it’s the slowest thing I’ve ever been in
Have you ever driven anything with a 2L-E in it? Or any L-series diesel engine for that matter
Yep, slow, but they go forever. My TD 42 did 450,000 kms, wore the lumps off the cam. Stuck a new cam in it, didn't touch the rest. Still going at 700,000 km
Regular oil changes and filters are the key.
Once borrowed a mates TD42 powered GQ to tow a car back from a few hours down the road. Struggling to maintain an honest 90kmh was a first for me! He explained it was reliable... I countered by offering reliability wasn't hard to come by when you're only making about 20hp per litre haha!
A good one will start doing a burnout as it comes on boost in third. That one was a bitch to tune it kept hopping up on the front roller of the dyno.
Diesel hiluxs are heaps slower 😂
TH-cam needs to get their act together and show your videos to more people. I feel like you have really hit your stride with the over all quality of the presentation and production values.
Right as I sat down for lunch. Beauty! 👌
The way Al’s hand folded to penetrate the bore was truly a sign of great experience. Had to go and get a cool towel to calm down
Always appreciate an appearance by friendgeneer John!
Great to see Al fiddling with his favorite motor again, he knows deep down the td is superior to the cummins 12v
I have an td myself and i am going to do a rebuild some time in the future, so this is amazing. great with all the tips and tricks, and fantastic that you show us the turbo - N/A differences. i was planing to read trough the forums, so this saved me a lot of time!!
Great tunes.
I love seeing diesel engine builds.
The oil pump is also larger capacity on a turbo engine, the camshaft is different and also good idea to clean out the steam passages in the block.
steam passage ? I never heard this term, what are these ?
@@crezychameau
I don't know about these specific engines, but some engines - especially with siamesed bores - have 'steam passages' or drillings to allow coolant through and avoid causing areas where circulation is poor and the coolant can get hot enough to boil - or, worse, air pockets can form. Basically, they're auxiliary bleeds.
@@crezychameau between the bores is a hole approximately 2 .5mm diameter from memory which runs down on an angle to the side water jacket, we normally clean them out with a long drill bit.
I always love when John is on. He's just such a funny, chill, knowledgeable dude.
Dead set probably the most accurate info all in the one place that I’ve seen for these. It’s nearly dangerous talking about TDs on the internet, everyone is an expert so I avoid it haha.
Did well noting most of the differences, super accurate awesome video. 🙏🏻
I always love watching these type of builds. Al always explains it in a really good way. Gus is lucky to have such a cool Dad! Love your work guys
I dont think you mentioned it, but you should use new head bolts on these every time, that angle actually stretches the bolt a very specific amount, if someone ever went too far or didnt lubricate it properly while torquing it in the past the bolt will not hold enough tension and you're going to be blowing gaskets.
I'm surprised als never talked about torque sequence and torque to yield bolts. Well that I can remember anyways
Pretty certain they would have no way they would of used the old head bolts
I always thought you needed a head stud kit, but that's just what I've heard I know very little about rebuilding TDs
@@andrewcoulter323 guess you could go stud kit if chasing power. They just metric so there would be ones that fit
Always an excellent show lads. Thanks for passing on the knowledge
Never gonna give up The Skid Factory.
JH Hilux. What a legend. Millers Chill and a pointer. Dude can explain anything to do with diesel injection.
Josh is a great guy and an old workmate of mine
@@craigmandall9420your starting Monday we hear that correctly 💁♂️
How good are chills diesel fuel 🍻
I think that it's awesome that you are working on these projects with your son. These are good memories he will have the rest of his life.
Al's explanations of why things are the way that they are, are always spot on. Maybe crude, but you get the point. Much Kudos for that.
I really like the TD42 engine, another brilliant video!
Love your work guys, hope you take my comments as constructive criticism and I not trying to out piss anyone, I’m to old and tired for that.
Looking at doing a td swap myself, this series has been very informative thanks guys
This vid is a great resource to anyone with a TD. Well done.
JH hilux always appears in facebook groups with amazing knowledge. Will be great to see him in a video
When I rebuilt my Silvertop TD42, I had a fair bit of difficulty getting the injection pump timing correct so will be interested to see how you guys go when you get to that point
This is the best thing to come out as I’m about to start my td42t rebuild
Great vid!
Wish my old boy (former mechanic) cared as much as you do when he brought my first car... 82 petrol fj troopy form Noosa... "no beach work"... aka rust bucket!!!!
Fantastic relaxed communication!!! I like it. Plus this is VERY encouraging. Am in the middle of building a turbo spec motor out of a N/A 94 blacktop and an old cooked turbo motor I bought years ago sitting in the back of the shed. A lot of the parts were in very good condition except for two pistons + the block is cracked in each parent bore. ATM it is just a pile of parts sitting on the floor waiting for the machine shop to complete the work I cant do.
One other thing is the TD42 Turbo has a different oil pump that pumps more oil, bolts straight in.
Thank you John and Mandy!!!
Big thanks Lads from nz its great watching guys doin stuff they love i think ya owe john more than a few beersies he looked bored asf lol liking the td42 content
Excited to see what's coming with the boss engine in the background 👌🏻
I'm about two years late in admitting this, but The Skid Factory was 100% instrumental in saying "I'm stuck into it at the moment." CHEERS!
Also, the grommet is lookin pretty yoked!
The 2nd greatest 4x4 channel on the internet ! ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
You have to work hard for another million km out of the engine. I am glad you show us how much effort it takes.
This is skid factory 🏭, love this so much guys, can vouch 110% that the N/A block is good for daily 30 psi with some tweaks 😂
Resplendent Red rocker cover for the win
Nailed it! Thank goodness you sleeved it! Watch out when sealing the front cover. Maybe avoid eg 3 bond or gen Nissan goo which dries too quick and fails easily.
Best TD42 build channel
I had the great pleasure of working with my boys twice and I really loved it. People with no kids don't understand this.
I hope that people without kids got to understand that joy as kids 😂
I also advise you use stud locker on oil squirters bango bolts, I have seen them come loose.
Can second that, have also seen them come loose and fall out. Not much oil pressure or bearings left afterwards guaranteed.
Keen for a 1hz-1hdt rebuild/conversion
Silvertops FTW. Boosted one that had done 400,000km 6 years ago. Still runs flawlessly
Big Gus should be doing all the lifting in the workshop from now on lads 😂🤣
Lov'n the TD42 goodness can't wait for the next one👍
Td42 rocker studs wear against the valve stem, causing a false reading when checking clearances. Can be easliy machined. The machining of the block with the liners out is great advise. Pistons will grab on liner hotspots shorty after rebuild if not corrected
I have a spare silvertop in my shed but I don't think I'll ever have the cash to rebuild it, it's a dream tho, thanks for sharing the knowledge, I can always refer back to this if I ever get there !
I had one of my TDs lose compression in cylinder 1 and starting to get low on a few others. I pulled the pistons out and checked the bores for spec, gave it a quick clean up hone and chucked some new rings and rod bearings in and slapped it back together without even pulling the block from the patrol. Made it a new truck which continues to this day running 20 psi and still towed 3.5t at 105kmh and 88 degree temps. They are not as scary to rebuild or as expensive as you may think. Just get in and do it and chip away at it and spread the cost
Good to see you guys went with a new cylinder head.. renowned for cracking after machining
I love the fact that the pistons has a massive set of balls on them😅
(Yes i know what the grooves are for)
Please tell me it’s going in a Prius
@@anthonymaloney1226 Continue watching the series and you'll find out 😏
Massive you say? 😂
@@BamBamZ_Gaming For the size of the pistons yes.
I have no grooves on my balls ?
Am I broken ?
Top notch editing woody
🔥🤟stepping up the skid factory qualityy vids 👌
Only way to turn the kettle off is to build the cooling system to "Derk Spec"including one of his water pumps. I've done it to the letter and I can tow 3t and stay under 95*c
Yes, billet water pump, quick as fan hub and fan, best quality radiator and thermostat from quick as.
@@DieselAddictiongenuine thermostat and rad tends to work better, definitely genuine thermostat derk says the same thing. seen people running hot or even too cold with after market tstats
@@chookx mine was recently running too cold with an aftermarket thermostat, swapped it for a genuine one and waiting to go for a good run to see if its better.
Also all the plastic skirts between the guards and chassis, around the radiator, and between the bonnet and the radiator support panel. I raced one on a stock water pumpand it never got hot until it stopped.
@@chookx I carry 1 ton of tools all the time 205kwatw 1130nm stroker, and never gets too hot or run cold, the quick as thermostat blocks off the bypass hole in the bottom of the housing making the coolant flow through the radiator instead of circulating around the block.
Top show fellas , how'd you get Hall and Oates to do the music?
Loving the moist noises like stirring macaroni cheese 💧
The oil chamber setup in the turbo TD42 piston is interesting, the VG30DETT actually has an extremely similar setup as well, where the oil squirter squirts oil into a chamber in the piston just like the TD42 does, whereas the regular VG30DE just sprays oil in the vague direction of the underside of the piston crown :P
Glad you shared missing the backplate. Thats the stuff i do.
These Td42ti vids are grouse mate hang’n for part 3 👍👍
Watching with great interest.
You can also install pre-frozen liners with a sacrificial fan clutch as the alloy face fits nicely and the mounting flange gives a perfect spot to hit ... apparently
Just another great vid from the boys. Thanks
Bunch of good eggs on this channel
The pads on the rockers that contact the top of the valves wear a groove in them, so when it's noisy and you need to set them, you can't get an accurate measurement.
Hell common problem. I used to set them with it running and just slowly tightened the clearance till it just stopped ticking. Works good
Thought the block might be getting a head stud kit instead of bolts. Is the head getting the coolant bypass fitted? Cant wait for the injection side of things video.
The precombustion chambers are also known for cracking and falling out too, makes a decent mess of a piston crown
Bloody awesome episode
14:48 I would not mind a dollar for every TD and TB tappet set I did back in the day.
Due every major service when I worked for both Ford (Maverick) and Nissan (GQ Patrol) in their hayday. 🙂
12 hot the lot.
Good morning. Been a long time sub but for whatever reason never tuned in. Being bored to death of ls swaps and will it run videos I scrolled past your channel. Again. Man I've been missing put. I really enjoy what you do. Keep it up. 🍻
I remember a friend got one of the 3 litres when they first came out, I thought it was a bit of a slug and you really had to matt the gas to get up steep inclines whereas the 42 had sufficient power to handle most occassions at half throttle (both turbos)
Haha the little fart sound when he’s torquing down at 7:34 😂😂
Will awesome to see a 1hzt turbo engine build with the next one
One of my fav vids of yours in recent memory. Informative, fun, close up machined surface porn 🎉🎉
The CC capacity of turbo pre comps is greater, when you stroke them you have to re calculate compression ratio and have shorter rods made to bring it back to factory specifications.
I really enjoy these build vids
Lol the cut out for the valve on the piston 😂
I was curious with when you did the valve set, obviously the motor isn't at a stage that it can run and get warm yet. What did you do the valve set to, as any spec that I can find is when the motor is warm?
I can chime in that a certain Mr or mrs cylinder head in Victoria supplied a TD42 head that after being fitted broke a rocker arm and 12 months later after not being registered/driven broke two more. Obviously warranty was gone by that point but effectively would have been breaking rocker arms in succession. I would imagine there was something with the valve and guide or spring pressures that the stock rockers hated. 4K head did fix said issue.
And just a tip, paint mark one corner of the bolts after the first step and then you can tell which ones have been done from that point forward at the other steps
Having a mate with a machine shop in his shed is definitely a handy resource to have. Oh how I'd love to not spend $2k on machining an EJ22 😅🙄
I'm from Canada and I have a TD27, I'm having reliability issues and I cant seem to find a good source for quality parts for these engines. any tips? I'm on my second head gasket and second set of pistons now.
Great video. BTW the image / picture quality is fantastic
Hey, I do the slap thing too, I started doing it as I oiled the rings it wouldn't rotate them. got to admit, I laughed when I saw Frankie doing it too
John is a legend, just needs an 8 ball to get those builds up to spec
After market heads don’t use enough inconel in there pre comps and that’s why they crack.
Beat goes hard 🔥
Wow a 3 course meal tonight!
Extremely Great content we do need a few more stubs around the workshop as we can’t be dehydrated building TeeeDeee’s
Probably a daft question but what is the oil you are coating the pistons and bores with?
might be assembly lube
I will just be run in engine oil for the bores and pistons. The black stuff is molybdenum assembly lube used for high pressure areas and the red stuff is "sticky" assembly lube used where you want it to stay until flushed out with normal engine running.
On the tube.
Best to use running in oil as it doesn't have friction modifiers that can prevent the rings from bedding in. Turbo engines tend to not suffer as much from this as the boost pressure forces the rings against the cylinder wall.
Ask me how I know, made that mistake with my first engine rebuild.
I'll never forget John's comment, "just lube her up and slap em in" and here we are John doing just that...
Great build! Really enjoying it
holy shit. we allll god schoooled. your our dad for slll of us now
Nicely done
I bet that the crank size difference between na and turbo has more to do with crank seal tolerance.
hi guys, great content ! i was wondering if the same changes should be done for the toyota engine 1HZ to the 1HDT, cheers
Engine australia do a kit to convert your non turbo 1hz to a turbo spec. Using hybrid pistons (1hz top with 1hdt lower) utilising the larger gudgeon pin of the 1hdt
12:13 Well that's an interesting clearance pattern...
Mate I enjoy every video up load. I learn thank you.
Questions I see on the old block that the piston don't go all the way to the top. So low combustion?
Secound you put sealer on the baults on the thread and head. Why the threads. Are the bolts going into a water jacket
The injector cap has changed. More fuel. But does this burn out the injectors more do to heat ?
Take care guys.
Be safe)
Thanks for another good video. love your work