The second I saw you blew it up I was waiting for this video. Sad but it opens up a whole new world of opportunities for this car. I also did not expect this video so quick so kudos to you guys awesome job💯
@@RatchetWrenches I was hoping to see you guys on the weekend with the NA project track course potential, but as for boost, I got 1 of those. But I would like a turbo RWD car. I’ll hope to show you guys soon. Just need to race 908_shelby first 😉
@@RatchetWrenches Are y'all still running the Walbro 255 you guys installed about a year ago? If so, how has it handled your power. I'm making about right at 400whp and had a Deatschwerks 340LPH pump in my car that can't keep fuel pressure to save its life. My car unknown to me at the time of the DW pump install already has a Walbro 255 and it never gave me issues. Ordered the whole new pump assembly like you guys installed hoping it will solve my issue because many others have had the same issue with the DW pump. Was just curious what your experience as been.
that 4x4 on the jack was sketchy. I've done a few R&R engine jobs on jack stands, but I've always used a hoist to lower the engine on the floor. Good job simplifying the job!
Whatever engine ends up back in this car, I'd highly recommend the head cooling mod. On the 2v and 4v the back of the heads actually deadhead cuz there's no coolant flow, so cyl 7 and 8 will overheat on boosted motors. Basically pop the freeze plugs and put a coolant crossover between the two. Lots of info about it on the web, good luck with your rebuild! Gonna stay tuned every step of the way
@@Sleeper_Solutions The uneven temp across the head and added pressure in the cylinders has been known to be problematic in 2v too when making power (boosted obviously hence added pressure). Again only the driver side dead heads as the passenger side has the heater core inlet there. You can tap a fitting into the crossover and driver side of the back on top of the intake and run a line, nothing crazy is needed. I put AN fittings in both sides of my eddy and got the AN adapter for the pipe from water pump cavity for the heater core (MMR sells it) and was going to Y the back together to the heater core to retain heat. Had all the parts but ditched the project entirely and just ran the rear ports to the crossover under the intake and sold off the intake setup.
@@Sleeper_Solutions oh was that you that helped pull it? Next time (i say pull it out the top but if you must) at least loosen or pull the trans fill plug or pull the shifter before pulling the drain plug. The ground around, cardboard, underbody, your clothes and your watch will thank you!
Gotta ask. Why disconnect the AC and power steering pump? I take them off the motor and zip tie them out of the way. I drop my motor out the bottom as well and try to make as little extra work as possible.
The day a tubular k member is worth it's weight in gold lol. Can't wait to see this build come together! Forged rods and slugs will make her so much safer. Just fyi (I don't know your budget) but boss (coyote) rods are know to be good to around 700 wheel or so and are a direct fit(Pistons are different obviously) and "used" to run around $32 each from the dealership. Have no clue on today's prices but those with some nice Pistons would get you set up pretty well. I'd just get a matched set(r&p) so they are balanced but, that's just me. I don't even have a mustang anymore (big YET) but I'm planning on buying one to build when the prices come down out the rings of saturn
Thanks! And yeah people have said that's a great budget friendly option. Haha that's so true the prices on everything rn are just ridiculous. It's not gonna be cheap to rebuild
Is there a point to splitting to duals? Like maybe being quiet but having a higher flowrate because you lower the back pressure by having two mufflers?
I wouldn't say very limited, you ever see Andrew Lavender on youtube? I didn't wanna be like everyone else who does an Ls Swap or Yote swap. But those platforms are better I will admit
I’ll be doing a motor swap the fall by myself. I plan on dropping the K member as I have a tubular one to install. I’ll use the engine hoist to lift the front of the car. Looks less sketchy.
If you're just dropping the k you can buy those engine support bars from harbor freight they work well. But can also use the engine house for extra help
pull or at least loosen the fill plug or remove the shifter before pulling the drain plug! Also the clutch cable retaining clip is easily sourced or a E clip works just the same. Unbolt the AC compressor and move it out of the way. In all honesty, unbolt the hood and you had a engine lift,! Pull the intake (since you are anyway!) Unbolt the trans and pull it out the top.
Everyone's got their preferred way of doing it but my buddy drew who helped was very efficient removing it from the bottom so that's why we did it that way
It's definitely doable just would take more finesse and we were trying to make the least mess as possible but we did end up getting fluid everywhere still haha. I'll keep it in mind if I ever have to do it again, thanks!
Hey is there anyway you could post the non sped-up time-lapse from 14:00. Tearing my engine apart soon to build for boost and would love to hear all the commentary from it.
Oh shit NJ? I have a black vortech 2v man I’m in Monmouth county area bro anyway this summer maybe we could cruise? I never knew you lived in jersey I watched ur videos while back on this car. Also got a friend 2 otehr firneds with 2v’s and I know someone else with a cobra
Yeah buddy! And that's awesome love a good vortech. Yeah we could definitely cruise this summer for sure! Always been trying to find some 2v guys in jersey
@RatchetWrenches I'm getting close just need to do bell housing bolts and engine mounts it's my first time pulling an engine period and I've almost done it in a week
@@RatchetWrenches thank you. Whenever you put things back together I'd really appreciate it if you'd show the torque sequence when you put the cam girdles on. I can't find anyone on TH-cam that shows how to do it.
Is this really easier than taking just the engine out by itself and leaving the trans in? If there was a lift in play there would be no question that it makes more sense. I have taken 2 of these out and back in (via taking out with the trans attached) - that can be fun. I was thinking of this method or just taking the engine out solo - maybe less work tbh.
I honestly do not find it easy to pull it from the top you always have to remove the drivers side valve cover and take the trans off which is a pain. Most that pull the engine from the top have to put such an aggressive angle on the engine to get it out and sometimes will have to set the engine on the rack to readjust. It’s never worth the risk of damaging the oil pan. Out the bottom will always be the move.
Mhs heads and cams get forged manley crank k1 forged hbeam rods forged wiesco pistons thank me later also if you can afford a t56 while you're at it and enjoy the boost my man
The struggle to protect mom n dads driveway is real. Great job.
Hahah almost caused some serious carnage but thanks!
YOOOOO what a trip! And such a good time thanks for inviting me out and letting me help y’all out! 💪🏻💪🏻🇺🇸
Any time man! We killed it no doubt 🔥 can't wait for 2.0 😎
@@RatchetWrenches well be back for the engine assembly!
@@Sleeper_Solutions You willing to fly down to east Texas for a few days? Lol! I need someone who knows what they are doing.
02 Explorer 2V in Indy, wondering if boost is possible considering my motor looks just like this one
Beast mode that was impressive!
You guys made pulling that engine look easy
Thanks! It really wasn't bad when you have a knowledgeable set of hands that's done it multiple times
That's pimping you guys. Love the work you guys put in. Motivated me this morning to get some work done as well.
Hell yeah that's what we like to hear!
The second I saw you blew it up I was waiting for this video. Sad but it opens up a whole new world of opportunities for this car. I also did not expect this video so quick so kudos to you guys awesome job💯
It's unfortunate but exactly! So excited for next year. Thank you Drew absolutely killed it with pulling the engine it was a breeze
Damn that was a quick turn around! Good job guys! Can't wait to see this thing ripping
Hell yeah it was! Can't wait either
Cool
I’ve never had a 2v GT but maybe some day
Thanks Joey! You need to get one and boost it
@@RatchetWrenches I was hoping to see you guys on the weekend with the NA project track course potential, but as for boost, I got 1 of those.
But I would like a turbo RWD car.
I’ll hope to show you guys soon.
Just need to race 908_shelby first 😉
@@KapcomRacing next time for sure! And oh hell yeah you gotta run Frank that'll be a good one
@@RatchetWrenches I’m always ready for a run.
Wow. That's a lot of work. I doubt that I'd do this work myself.
It's definitely a good amount of work but it's totally doable with the right mindset and set of tools!
you guys crushed it. that was awesome!
Thank you!! 🤘🏽
Great video!!
To the point!! Just real information,
On how to!!
Thank you!!
Glad you enjoyed! You're welcome!
Great job. Wish I had done my car this way. Seemed like it was a lot easier. Can’t wait to see what y’all do next with this build
Thank you and yeah really wasn't too bad. I'm excited for next year for sure
@@RatchetWrenches Are y'all still running the Walbro 255 you guys installed about a year ago? If so, how has it handled your power. I'm making about right at 400whp and had a Deatschwerks 340LPH pump in my car that can't keep fuel pressure to save its life. My car unknown to me at the time of the DW pump install already has a Walbro 255 and it never gave me issues. Ordered the whole new pump assembly like you guys installed hoping it will solve my issue because many others have had the same issue with the DW pump. Was just curious what your experience as been.
Good gosh, you guys did GREAT WORK!!!
Thank you!!!
Great content as always!
Thank you! We do our best 👌🏽
Geez. You guys are super handy with motors!
Thanks!
It's just absolutely f****** amazes me that people could do this type of s*** just a freaking knowledge bro you guys are amazing man wow
THANK YOU!
I thought this was Luka Doncic for a minute 😂
Lol I can see it
@@RatchetWrenches awesome vid thank you
yeah Drew!!! 🤘
The man puts in WORK
that 4x4 on the jack was sketchy. I've done a few R&R engine jobs on jack stands, but I've always used a hoist to lower the engine on the floor. Good job simplifying the job!
It was a bit sketchy! Haha but we made it work. Appreciate it thanks!
Whatever engine ends up back in this car, I'd highly recommend the head cooling mod. On the 2v and 4v the back of the heads actually deadhead cuz there's no coolant flow, so cyl 7 and 8 will overheat on boosted motors. Basically pop the freeze plugs and put a coolant crossover between the two. Lots of info about it on the web, good luck with your rebuild! Gonna stay tuned every step of the way
Thanks for the tip! I've heard of people doing this. Appreciate it we're shooting for big numbers next year
2v only the driverside dead heads, drill tap the intake (yes plastic) and route to the coolant cross over.
@@commonsenseisdeadin2024 the 2v doesn’t have a head cooling issue only the 4v does.
@@Sleeper_Solutions The uneven temp across the head and added pressure in the cylinders has been known to be problematic in 2v too when making power (boosted obviously hence added pressure). Again only the driver side dead heads as the passenger side has the heater core inlet there.
You can tap a fitting into the crossover and driver side of the back on top of the intake and run a line, nothing crazy is needed.
I put AN fittings in both sides of my eddy and got the AN adapter for the pipe from water pump cavity for the heater core (MMR sells it) and was going to Y the back together to the heater core to retain heat. Had all the parts but ditched the project entirely and just ran the rear ports to the crossover under the intake and sold off the intake setup.
@@Sleeper_Solutions oh was that you that helped pull it?
Next time (i say pull it out the top but if you must) at least loosen or pull the trans fill plug or pull the shifter before pulling the drain plug. The ground around, cardboard, underbody, your clothes and your watch will thank you!
Gotta ask. Why disconnect the AC and power steering pump? I take them off the motor and zip tie them out of the way. I drop my motor out the bottom as well and try to make as little extra work as possible.
Drew's done it before so I was just following his lead. I'm assuming personal preference
The day a tubular k member is worth it's weight in gold lol. Can't wait to see this build come together! Forged rods and slugs will make her so much safer. Just fyi (I don't know your budget) but boss (coyote) rods are know to be good to around 700 wheel or so and are a direct fit(Pistons are different obviously) and "used" to run around $32 each from the dealership. Have no clue on today's prices but those with some nice Pistons would get you set up pretty well. I'd just get a matched set(r&p) so they are balanced but, that's just me. I don't even have a mustang anymore (big YET) but I'm planning on buying one to build when the prices come down out the rings of saturn
Thanks! And yeah people have said that's a great budget friendly option. Haha that's so true the prices on everything rn are just ridiculous. It's not gonna be cheap to rebuild
Very nice video 👍👍👍
Thank you!
Great job.!.
Thanks 👍🏼
Built 2v with a pt7675. Im guessing 800+. I have a pt7675 and its fantastic, dyno chart looked beautiful once i dropped that in
That sounds like a rowdy combo! Next upgrade for me will be a bigger and better turbo most likely!
Is there a point to splitting to duals? Like maybe being quiet but having a higher flowrate because you lower the back pressure by having two mufflers?
Me and a buddy did that too. Quick like! Motor is out, just coyote swap it. Those 2v are very limited.
I wouldn't say very limited, you ever see Andrew Lavender on youtube? I didn't wanna be like everyone else who does an Ls Swap or Yote swap. But those platforms are better I will admit
I’ll be doing a motor swap the fall by myself. I plan on dropping the K member as I have a tubular one to install. I’ll use the engine hoist to lift the front of the car. Looks less sketchy.
This was only sketchy because the cardboard was preventing the jack to roll.
If you're just dropping the k you can buy those engine support bars from harbor freight they work well. But can also use the engine house for extra help
@@RatchetWrenches The only part going back in is the trans. New motor and K. Should be a blast once it’s done.
@@Sleeper_Solutions What did you mean when you drained the AC? Did you not just remove the compressor and hang it out of the way?
My Lincoln Town car has one of these motors
Hell yeah 👍🏼
pull or at least loosen the fill plug or remove the shifter before pulling the drain plug! Also the clutch cable retaining clip is easily sourced or a E clip works just the same. Unbolt the AC compressor and move it out of the way.
In all honesty, unbolt the hood and you had a engine lift,! Pull the intake (since you are anyway!) Unbolt the trans and pull it out the top.
Always gotta increase gap on top ring, with boost or nos!!
Either before, it’s added or forced to after!!
Common knowledge!!!
I was kind of surprised the stock internals held up to the abuse they did for 7 months
It’s easier to pull it out from the top, the most annoying is to take off the starter
Everyone's got their preferred way of doing it but my buddy drew who helped was very efficient removing it from the bottom so that's why we did it that way
Nice work brotha…Stop jacking on them pinch welds tho!!!! Always use “frame rails” and torque boxes!!!!
Thanks and yeah they're so far gone at this point
YOOOOO WHOS READY FOR PART 2!????
LET'S FREAKING GOOO 🔥
I do this quite a bit without taking the trans fluid out. if you can manage to keep the trans level you don't lose any fluid out of the tailshaft
* on a manual that is
It's definitely doable just would take more finesse and we were trying to make the least mess as possible but we did end up getting fluid everywhere still haha. I'll keep it in mind if I ever have to do it again, thanks!
some newer 5.0 connecting rods and forged pistons and thing will absolutely rip!!
That's the plan! 🤙🏽
What happened to the cam installation video for the 2v? It’s not on TH-cam.
Unfortunately the music got a copyright claim so we had to remove it. It Sucks
Hey is there anyway you could post the non sped-up time-lapse from 14:00. Tearing my engine apart soon to build for boost and would love to hear all the commentary from it.
I'll have to review the footage and see if it's TH-cam friendly audio lol I forget what we were talking about
lean knock
Cracked piston ringland
Oh shit NJ? I have a black vortech 2v man I’m in Monmouth county area bro anyway this summer maybe we could cruise? I never knew you lived in jersey I watched ur videos while back on this car. Also got a friend 2 otehr firneds with 2v’s and I know someone else with a cobra
Yeah buddy! And that's awesome love a good vortech. Yeah we could definitely cruise this summer for sure! Always been trying to find some 2v guys in jersey
what headlights are those and where did you buy them?
They're smoked lenses I bought from American Muscle years ago
Sheesh im on day 3 of trying to pull my 2v dont really have the room or jacks to pull the k member like that pray for me😂
It's definitely not easy if you don't have someone who has done it before and the correct tools!
@RatchetWrenches I'm getting close just need to do bell housing bolts and engine mounts it's my first time pulling an engine period and I've almost done it in a week
Suppose you forgot you can pull the dipstick and avoid the pulsing splurts😂😂😂
Yeahhh it was over quick enough lol
Great vid guys. Guess I'll be doing chains on my 03 gt. When you took the chains off cam gears which direction did the cams wanna go?
Thank you appreciate it and I believe the passenger side jumped down towards the ground when it was removed
@@RatchetWrenches thank you. Whenever you put things back together I'd really appreciate it if you'd show the torque sequence when you put the cam girdles on. I can't find anyone on TH-cam that shows how to do it.
@@chrisdavis7883 message my Instagram I can send you the timing procedure
@@chrisdavis7883 there's a book by George Reid called 4.6 and 5.4 ford engines how to rebuild. Good resource
@@chrisdavis7883 we'll try and film as much as we can during the reassembly phase
Is this really easier than taking just the engine out by itself and leaving the trans in? If there was a lift in play there would be no question that it makes more sense.
I have taken 2 of these out and back in (via taking out with the trans attached) - that can be fun.
I was thinking of this method or just taking the engine out solo - maybe less work tbh.
I'm not really sure but this way wasn't too bad actually if you've done it before.
As many times I’ve done this if you’re removing both our the bottom will always be the move
If you take out the upper plug it won't glug out and splatter everywhere.
Thanks for the tip
With boost you need more piston ring end gap ot it breaks the ring land on the piston
Yeah we found that one out the hard way. Lived a pretty good life boosted for 7 months with a SBE
Hey wassup how much would u guys charge to replace a 2v engine
You can reach out to Sleeper Solutions to discuss more about it! His email is Sleeper.Solutions@outlook.com
Another music video 🎉
🙌🏽
I see a Fully forged bottom end coming lol
You are correct
Where did you get that radiator hose
The cross over pipe? It came with the On3Performance Turbo Kit
@@RatchetWrenches yeah the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing to the radiator
🔥🔥what turbo kit are you running?
On3 Performance
Out of curiosity. What it been easier to just pull only the engine from the top of the car?
Drew had experience pulling it from the bottom so that's how we did it. I'm not really sure if it would've been easier or not from the top
I honestly do not find it easy to pull it from the top you always have to remove the drivers side valve cover and take the trans off which is a pain. Most that pull the engine from the top have to put such an aggressive angle on the engine to get it out and sometimes will have to set the engine on the rack to readjust. It’s never worth the risk of damaging the oil pan. Out the bottom will always be the move.
Where in Jersey are you?
Central
How much boost caused all this
7.5 lbs but I don't think boost was the issue at fault
Mhs heads and cams get forged manley crank k1 forged hbeam rods forged wiesco pistons thank me later also if you can afford a t56 while you're at it and enjoy the boost my man
I’m never taking my engine out again without a lift. That shit is for the birds.
If we had access to a lift I'm sure I'd be saying the same thing
This is exactly how you’d do it on a lift