Fixing everything wrong with my Honda swapped Ferrari
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- Snag that AN cap and plug kit here!
amzn.to/3WzXMey
If you want to support the StanceWorks channel and builds, here's the link to the patreon!
/ stanceworks
Join us in the StanceWorks Discord!
/ discord
Be sure to check out www.sendcutsend.com/stanceworks and claim your 15% discount code for fast laser-cut parts!
Be sure to support our friends at H&R Springs for helping bring this Honda-swapped Ferrari project to life:
www.hrsprings.com
Last but not least, check out the rest of the gang that helps to make this project happen:
www.haltech.com
www.rywire.com
www.rsfuture.com
www.csfrace.com
www.garrettmotion.com
www.turbosmart.com
www.vibrantperformance.com
Something about this car that mesmerizes. Classic lines, fresh livery, stance, wheels... It tells you everything about itself in just a glance. An old edge purposefully re-sharpened for combat without disregarding its heritage.
Yikes.
Brett is my favorite recurring character
Hey Mike, that rivet detail is great for two reasons. 1: vulnerability, makes us feel like our project cars don’t suck just because of little recurring issues like that and 2: you fill your head with little time saving practical design change experiences like that and eventually you become a time saving machine
It's nice to have good friends :) Very excited to see the Ferrari on the way back! I should come back and get the E28 too ;)
should put a tether on your cap so that it cant get dropped...speaking from experience--also if it isn't a cap but an empty connector dont forget putting the dummy pins in
You're gonna need to add some strain relief to that Deutche Connector because the bending of the wire attached to the control pad is going to create metal fatigue in the wire, resulting in broken wires. It can be as simple as heat shrink, or a 3D printed elbow to secure a fixed curve where the other end plugs into the car CAN bus port.
Have to be careful with rivets on plastic parts in 2 ways related to creep because it's very hard to gauge how much force you're putting into the area (vs say a bolt). If the rivet expands inside the hole and puts a hoop stress into the wall, it could either crack when loaded up in use or the plastic could creep overtime and make the fastening go loose. This is why countersunk holes with screws in plastic parts are not usually a good plan (look in any plastic molded device and they'll have regular flat bottomed screw heads), the taper of the bolt puts a hoop stress in the part and it'll crack or creep. With printed parts, you also need to worry about the amount of axial compression you're putting into the area around the whole as they're not generally solid. Parts can locally collapse under the bolt head and either propagate cracks or effectively go loose. Best practice for riveting plastic parts is to include metal washers to spread the load and take the hoop stressed.
A highly underrated comment! 3D printing has made working with plastic designs readily accessible to everyone; unfortunately, the expertise regarding creep is often not appreciated.
Thanks for your expertise!
Rather surprised you guys didn't have a respirator or something during the blasting process...all the nasty you breathed in!
You are not alone being surprised. I see pros use cover suit and filtered air full mask
Mike I have to say your cutting style, the audio takes and the style of filming is just very very good! Keep going! Loving watching your videos!
For the rivets through the 3D printed bracket, using a longer rivet with matching ID washers on the back side will keep the rivets from ever pulling through. Awesome vid as always, love the build dude!
Mike, nice open shot sequence! wow
I started following your channel when you bought a beautiful yellow Ferrari (and had a much longer beard), and I have to say you only get better every time. congrats mate keep on like this.
In my opinion it's the geeky nerdy details about a build that draw the audience.
Before this I watched the Ruffian Galaxy overview.
It's the smallest of details that make the most difference. Thanks Mike.
That Haltech keypad set up is noice. Gotta love machined parts.
On an industrial setting, you can use backing rings to avoid back purging or use disolvable paper disk to make the purge volume smaller.
Not sure if you have a way to do this with your pad or not but the most useful feature I have on my race car is the ability to run the starter remotely with the fuel pump deactivated. Works to prime oil, check cam/crank sensors, do compression tests, etc.
I also ran a remote USB port to plug the laptop into at the same location.
I think you’re 100% correct that running the remote switch panel is a huge quality of life improvement!
Wanted to share my experience 3D printing countersunk holes, the down and out force can push the layer lines apart (ask me how I know). I switched to counterbore and problem solved. Not as sexy as flush countersink bolts, but much more sexy than broken parts.
PETG is only good to about 65c, ABS filaments (Amazon prices starting around 15 dollars per kg) are good for at least 80c, the cheap Polycarbonate filaments (Amazon prices around 25 dollars per kg) are good to around 100c. If the PETG fails (which I assume it will, based on engine and track heat) your X1C can print those other filaments just fine.
Mike I think we’re all fans of Lando this week. I mean, how could you not be.
That intro scene was *chef's kiss
It seems like the more elegant solution is to put the original CAN pad on the left side of the interior where you can access it while warming up the engine.
Best part of my Friday!
So much value @ 21:40! Great job Mike as always
Another solution for the CAN connector would've been using a TE Connectivity locking plastic Deutsch cap with a mounting tab. Off the shelf part with one bolt mounting, that you would lock the 4 pin CAN pigtail into when not in use and would eliminate another set of connectors. And there would've been no need to drill through the body.
Love the content Mike. Awesome build. Back purging is the bomb. Given the size of your part though to save $$$ i would have just die grinder the inner side! Keep up the great work.
22:05 - looks like the inside of the exhaust knuckle from the system my brother bought for his VW T3. Full stainless system that he paid over £1k for but man it was badly welded. Also the replaceable tip rusted within 6 months so not the stainless grade he was told.
Love this car, can't wait to see you hit the track, keep it up man love your channel
You should build a jet exhaust for this car so it’s constantly in boost
Brett has the skills 👍
get a fender washer on that winshield bolt
this may be a really dumb question and I apologize if that's the case... could you use a taller engine mount or some type of spacer set instead of modifying your turbo manifold? Maybe such things don't exist, but I just figured you could use something to raise the engine a few mils higher to accommodate the new turbo/shorter engine/coupler combo you just made versus totally remaking the manifold🤷🏾♂. Again, if that's not feasible at all, my apologies.
Safety wire . Aircraft Sprucemand Specialty sells hardwire with holes for then wire.
Why not just make a whole turbo flange adapter from a solid piece on the lathe. Pretty simple to do, smaller and stronger than a welded piece.
Love watching your content, such a talented guy!
Gerard from England
I’m still confused on why you didn’t get a k24 block and run a destroker internals to 2 litre, with the taller deck height you could run longer connecting rods that will suit higher rpm and higher loads better
But overall love the build and you have all my support it’s just an opinion.
A fair question! The only reason is because it wasn’t something 4P suggested.
Another great episode!
With the cone to bring the manifold down to the new turbo, I assume it would actually create more pressure of the exhaust gases before going into the turbo itself, thus probably creating a faster spool, right?
Looking forward to seeing it all come back together! Nothing down the vibration concerns.
Could be! That one is beyond my pay grade to be honest.
In theory yes, However with as much piping that needs "charged' that "lag" will still be there to some degree. The shorter the charge piping and such the better, as it essentially means less air volume inside that needs to be compressed to reach whatever level of boost you are shooting for. That is just basic science. So Yes it should aide in that, but will it ultimately make a noticeable difference.. "on its own"? Probably not.
Maybe you're filming it backwards or maybe something I don't know but did you not start from the top down? If you didn't start from the top down why not?
Small engine, high pressure, big turbo, and turbo lag...wouldn't a compound turbo setup help with this exact issue?
With all the dry ice (carbon dioxide?) in the air does it make you you feel light headed at all?
Top 3 build on YT right now. But my guyyyyy! You put a Button panel in the engine bay... and NOT in the cockpit?!?! Maybe I got newbie logic behind it 😣
There’s already one in the cockpit.
I wonder where the oil and grime goes when CO2 blasting?
29:38 gold reference
I think you should throw a strap on the dummy plug, like factory fuel cap strap
Hi, I'm curious what is your plan for the interior?¿
Yes!!! Cold Jet is the best
If he was smart he'd put a Blueprint Engines 3.6l LS head monster innit. With a big turbski.
Bro carried the manifold like carrying a baby 😄😍
Might be time to safety wire some of the hardware that's coming loose?
in my own way of answering your question. was a honda motor in a Ferrari a bad idea. HECK no i watch boostedboi's a lot on youtube. Honda motors are great but they do have weak points. like valve guides they tend to drop valves some times when you really lean on them or 1st putting boost in therm. don't be afraid to pull the valve cover and check or pull a intake or exhaust manifold and check if there lose. the important part its cheaper than throwing a V8 or V6 or anything else being built up like that Honda motor. got to break stuff to have fun and to learn its just the nature of things when you 1st start out.
Can tell youre a bmw guy by you saying youre cleaning the engine bay just to identify future leaks.😂
TI manifold could be nice? 😏
That's what friends are for 😀
Outstanding
PETG-CF gets soft at 74C. I would not is that under the hood.
Would it be advisable to wear a mask while dry ice blasting? All that oil and dirt is being aerosolized.
👌👌👌1️⃣1️⃣1️⃣🫵👊👊👊Es perfecto
I'm honestly surprised you didn't 3d print these plugs and caps for washing the car.
I.... didn't think of that. But also, next day delivery from Amazon versus printing a ton of caps for hours, and designing them too.
@@stanceworks Next day delivery is hard to beat! Also, the aluminum ones will come in handy if you ever need to plug something that's under pressure.
It's only temporary . . . unless it works . . . lol.
Time for a hayabusa V8.
Lando!!!
was there something wrong with the Honda? I don't like Fieros IYKWIM
13:11 you know your audience...
man i love this car. give me that with "only" 400hp and id be in heaven lol
As someone who has been in the Automotive Dry Ice business from the beginning, thanks for portraying it the way you did. It's not magic, it is slow and arduous, but it's worth it for all the reasons you mentioned. It's not just about cleanliness, it's about functionality. From leak detection to simply working faster and more efficiently because there isn't caked on grease and dirt, it's worth it. You showed that, and not everyone does. Thanks Mike.
For real man. Junk falling in your eyes while working on the vehicles is not fun! I have an eye infection currently from it.
Dry ice blasting originated in the US Navy in 1945. Golly you are old.
this car is one of the most iconic builds ever on youtube, it can never be mistake
I love E11s! Red on white looks deadly
Yeah chill out. Lol not really
this comment is one of the most iconic ever on youtube, it can never be mistake
The videos are good but the car isnt working…
Should put a wire on that plug or 3d print a cap and use a wire to attach to the plug/cap so you don’t need to but for it later. It just hangs there until you’re done. No muss no fuss
Love this. I was thinking the same thing, a way to keep it from getting lost. 🍻
@@stanceworks or add to the 3d printed bracket a spot for the dummy plug to sit.
Regarding documenting the windshield bolt: I love seeing even the small details. It’s awesome to see all the aspects of making a race car - even the silly little fixes.
Definitely enjoying the new pacing changes, gives the whole video one long, cohesive feel. Episode was over before I knew it.
All progress is good progress, and I'm definitely jealous of all the problems you get to solve on a daily basis. The immediate gratification you get when a solution works and bolts right up has to be fantastic. I miss that high and really need to get my garage back in shape to be able to work efficiently again.
If you have stainless exhaust, I always recommend backpurging, turbo or not because the heat of exhaust WILL make sugared welds cracks under vibration. Everytime.
I love the confidence. You have obviously been an actual fabricator for years. Right? You have been welding race cars for years? Just forgot to ever record anything and upload to your channel?
@@eriklarson9137 I been doing it so long... that social media didn't exist yet. Google wasn't even a dream. And you should keep your trap shut kid.
As a previous commercial truck technician, a heated power washer with a soap input pulling diluted dawn will make quick work out of any amount of dust caked on oil. Like 100,000's miles of oil leaking road dust blamo gone in a sec. Understand why you'd use dry ice here, but for others, it's absolutely not the only way.
Here's a tip to quickly see if the torqued nuts and bolts came loose. Take a paint pen of bright color and make a line on the stud and across the nut and onto the mounting surface. That way with a quick glance you can see if anything's moved because the marks will not be in line anymore.
Torque seal. Cheap and it comes in any color.
Love to see the community around you, everyone helping each other on projects
Remote control pad in the engine bay is a great idea Mike. Makes so much sense and be efficient. Want to say having an extra person behind the camera has made a noticeable difference in the quality of your presentation but also in your content. Love your work👍
Can we see more Brett? Seems like an awesome neighbor I'd hang out if he was next door. And can we acknowledge that lathe handle!!??
From one Waffle House enthusiast to another, I just wanted to throw out there how much I enjoy the consistency and variety of captions under your name at the start of every video.
YES!
An alternative to back purging stainless steel is Solar Flux Type B. The same results can be achieved for a fraction of the cost and equipment.
I'm wanting to learn to weld in the future, so my knowledge now is next to nil. So, is sugaring only an issue with stainless, or all metals?
With all of that vibration, I highly recommend you look into Nord-Lock wedge-locking washers to prevent loss of bolt preload. They are fairly inexpensive, can be found stateside, and they do NOT back off. I have successfully used them for many years on my 1953 military truck (driveshafts) and 2016 Focus RS (autox suspension).
You beat me to that comment 👍
Loving these new filming
formats. Killer stuff as always, Mike!
Ive been watching this car be built for literally years now lol. And still just as excited as i was in the beginning. Actually more because its so close… again lol
You are going to have a side affect from that turbo cone you had made. Your turbocharger is going to spool faster. Thimk about it
My preference would be for you to document EVERYTHING! Been awaiting for this episode since the car was in Australia - fantastic to see it return to the channel, and to see the upgrades happening. The second keypad is a great idea. 10/10 🙂
I'm just grateful that you appreciate the insane costs of dry ice blasting. I had to click off of another channel's video when he said "Now, normally we would have this car dry ice blasted..." because most people don't live in a reality where that kind of wealth is "normal".
I really appreciate the small details. It really makes the build perfect. Great work!
Look up vibration resistant nuts on McMaster. I just built a concrete shaker, and I welded the bolts to the frame, and these nuts haven't moved a millimeter after dozens of hours of shaking at full speed. They're split at the top, and somehow grabs the bolt amazingly well.
Mike - Maybe use a button head cap screw for that windshield bolt. Cleaner and more aerodynamic installation. Also, talk to your machinist friend about making a custom dual V-band clamp flange for you that has the larger size flange on one side and the smaller size flange on the other side. This would have minimal distance between the two clamp rings. This could involve using a piece of thick wall tube that fits the large clamp inside diameter and then the other end is machined to meet the smaller clamp inside diameter. The tube length can then be minimum length needed to allow the clamps to be installed.
Absolutely document the little details. One of the most valuable aspects of your channel is how you don't hide how the sausage is made. Seeing all the nickels and dimes make it so much more real than all the tightly edited 20-min videos (or worse, 60 second shorts) that have people believing that this stuff happens smoothly.
Pre race nut and bolt check is MANDATORY with solid mounts. Even in our top alcohol dragster.
You have all these capabilities and you send the part out to ceracoat it? Seriously it is very easy and the ceraheat high temp ceracoat doesn't even require an oven. It is air cured.
Bret is unbelievable. His skillz are beyond belief. SHOUT out to BRET! Amazing tool and dye work my friend. I am astounded.
I like to use cf-nylon filament on some parts I design for engine bays. Chemical and heat-resistant. It can be a little pricey depending on what company you buy it from. I have to use some wild retraction settings.
I'm not an expert, but downsizing the exhaust headers wouldn't help to spool the turbo? They seem massive for a K20.
You could make that adpter way shorter, You friend could make that whole part on lathe
You could have Brett machine up a one piece adaptor that would only be the 2 V band clamps thick, should easily be the 19mm shorter.
Yeah man I've got the same issue with my K24 MR2 vibrating like mad. It should be less of an issue with K20 though. Nevertheless great channel mate, love your content and big fan of the way you conduct/present your episodes
@StanceWorks, what was the redline of the former boosted K24 engine and what was the operation profile you drove that day it was damaged (any logs available)? I would like to have a 2nd look at the data to analyse it.
Yeah I think it would have been far easier to use a Miata... 3rd gen MR2.. Corvette... 911... or a lot of other cars. Perhaps a factory 'track toy' type car.
But I guess -- it seems that this guy enjoys doing all this work and making these videos. And his car choice is extra interesting for that. and you can see by the level of detail in all the other comments that they also enjoy it.
ProCharged DART based small block Ford.
You'll love the durability and Enzo will roll over in his grave a few times.
everything wrong with Honda Swapped ferrari:
ITS GOT A SHITTY HONDA MOTOR IN IT
done
50 bucks is considered cheap? For a box of caps? Damn, I just found out why I'm not making progress with my project build. :S
Hey Mike, this car is so sophisticated, go for the unthinkable. Two Turbos inline? Greetings from Barcelona.