Sorry to say I think it's too late for Japan migration, and too soon for an American Renaissance, but there's always hope! Thanks for your kind sentiment!
Too funny - I watched this video with my wife and we were both amused at the idea of the bowling ball vise. She says, “I’m sure he doesn’t _literally_ mean a bowling ball.” An hour later, I sit down with the latest American Lutherie magazine, and there are _several_ pictures of one, including on the back cover! 😂 In his article, James Condino says he has about $60 into his. 😄
I like this one, looks like a cast vacuum chuck, so simple! cdnassets.hw.net/dims4/GG/aec9b9c/2147483647/resize/876x%3E/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fcdnassets.hw.net%2F91%2F2a%2Fa3f541184d9abe360689d8716294%2F13-2e08-2e27-bowling-2-tcm80-2007555.JPG
Starting the neck profile at the top edge of the fretboard vs the bottom edge is a subtle detail only a player would notice. I mod stock necks for my builds. The C profile builds tend to have the profile start at the top edge, as I sand the neck and fretboard as one (as you are doing here in this video). But most of my builds are trapezoid profiles. I used to start the trapezoid profile at the top edge of the fretboard, but only did it on one neck as I recall. Now I start the trapezoid profile at the bottom of the fretboard, round the edge at the neck/fretboard seam, and roll the fretboard edges. With the trapezoid profile, the only real contact points are the left thumb on the spine of the neck, and the left fingers doing the fretting, so the player never really touches the side of the fretboard.
Awful lot of ways to skin a cat, although I've never been tempted by what you describe. Hey, whatever works for you is great, but I doubt that something faceted would replace the homey feel of a "C" shape for most of us. Vive la difference!
@@kenparkerarchtoppery9440 It' similar to a Strandburg profile, but without the diagonal spine (to minimize thickness - 21.4mm with frets). Similar to fanned frets, it seems different at first, but after 5 minutes you don't really notice it. It removes some material under the players thumb and pointer finger knuckles (on the palm side). This makes it easier to reach across the fingerboard towards the #6 string. Like designing fighter jets, it's all about reducing cross-sectional profile. Nowadays, a conventional profile seems somewhat chunky to me by comparison. I've found no major issues with faceted profiles, as long as the faces are flat or convex, and the edges are all rounded. But profiles that have concave faces introduce unnecessarily sharp edges. On my current build, I've carried the trapezoid profile all the way to the top edge of the fretboard - it's a definite improvement. I've only done it on one build before. Guess I've been lazy.
Happy new year Ken! You mentioned previously that you have some techniques for adjusting the neck profile if a customer has a particular preference; would you do that via sanding at this stage?
Hi Ken, This a another excellent video. I keep looking forward to each new one you post. I believe that there is a typo beginning at 6:16. The overlay reads that the neck has a 24.5", 622.3mm scale length. You say that it's a 25.5" scale length, which I'm pretty sure is correct...unless this is some special-case neck.
You're right, I never built anything but 25.5" for my whole career, with only a couple exceptions. Perhaps it's just a psychic Freudian slip across platforms, as we are just now building a new aluminum neck tool in order to be able to create necks with scale lengths of 24.5" - 25.25". Not exacttly sure how this got confused, and no wiser on how to correct it without re-posting the video, but will find out. Thanks for your careful proofreading!
Do you have issues sourcing that beautiful ebony or do you just have a supplier you trust. Seems hard to tell what one actually gets these days, where it originated, etc.
First, it's never been easy to always be sure of species or origin, this is just not something new, and, I suspect it's probably better than ever with all the new regulations, paper trails, and restrictions. Ebony is not easy to find in the highest grade, and I'm sorry to say I can't usefully refer you to any supplier, you likely know them as well as I do. I will say that when you do find good material, bust out the wallet and buy all that you can afford.
Ken- do you have a current source for good files? Since Nickelson went to other countries for manufacturing the quality is box store, not what they built their name on. I have tried them and found them terribly disappointing. Ideas to acquire worthy new files?
In Japan , Ken would be considered a National Treasure .
Sorry to say I think it's too late for Japan migration, and too soon for an American Renaissance, but there's always hope!
Thanks for your kind sentiment!
ty for showing me how you work. I like it, and I picked up some usefull tips and tricks:)
Cool. This is the whole idea. Thanks for writing!
I really appreciate you taking the time to share your process. Thank you very much. ☮️
I love doing this!
all your work is fine and ingenious…
how beautiful!
thanks for your masterclass
Many thanks to you!
Thank you for this series.
Happy New Year, Ken👍
All the best for '25!
Too funny - I watched this video with my wife and we were both amused at the idea of the bowling ball vise. She says, “I’m sure he doesn’t _literally_ mean a bowling ball.” An hour later, I sit down with the latest American Lutherie magazine, and there are _several_ pictures of one, including on the back cover! 😂 In his article, James Condino says he has about $60 into his. 😄
I like this one, looks like a cast vacuum chuck, so simple!
cdnassets.hw.net/dims4/GG/aec9b9c/2147483647/resize/876x%3E/quality/90/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fcdnassets.hw.net%2F91%2F2a%2Fa3f541184d9abe360689d8716294%2F13-2e08-2e27-bowling-2-tcm80-2007555.JPG
Starting the neck profile at the top edge of the fretboard vs the bottom edge is a subtle detail only a player would notice. I mod stock necks for my builds. The C profile builds tend to have the profile start at the top edge, as I sand the neck and fretboard as one (as you are doing here in this video). But most of my builds are trapezoid profiles. I used to start the trapezoid profile at the top edge of the fretboard, but only did it on one neck as I recall. Now I start the trapezoid profile at the bottom of the fretboard, round the edge at the neck/fretboard seam, and roll the fretboard edges. With the trapezoid profile, the only real contact points are the left thumb on the spine of the neck, and the left fingers doing the fretting, so the player never really touches the side of the fretboard.
Awful lot of ways to skin a cat, although I've never been tempted by what you describe. Hey, whatever works for you is great, but I doubt that something faceted would replace the homey feel of a "C" shape for most of us. Vive la difference!
@@kenparkerarchtoppery9440 It' similar to a Strandburg profile, but without the diagonal spine (to minimize thickness - 21.4mm with frets). Similar to fanned frets, it seems different at first, but after 5 minutes you don't really notice it. It removes some material under the players thumb and pointer finger knuckles (on the palm side). This makes it easier to reach across the fingerboard towards the #6 string. Like designing fighter jets, it's all about reducing cross-sectional profile. Nowadays, a conventional profile seems somewhat chunky to me by comparison. I've found no major issues with faceted profiles, as long as the faces are flat or convex, and the edges are all rounded. But profiles that have concave faces introduce unnecessarily sharp edges.
On my current build, I've carried the trapezoid profile all the way to the top edge of the fretboard - it's a definite improvement. I've only done it on one build before. Guess I've been lazy.
Happy new year Ken! You mentioned previously that you have some techniques for adjusting the neck profile if a customer has a particular preference; would you do that via sanding at this stage?
Yassir!
🫶 for sharing your art! Love the sound of ebony cut with sharp tool, too!
An video editor made a mistake with text on screen at 6:18.
To err is Human.
I knew/hoped I'd get some ebony sound appreciation! Of course, who would know this sound better than you?
Hi Ken,
This a another excellent video. I keep looking forward to each new one you post.
I believe that there is a typo beginning at 6:16. The overlay reads that the neck has a 24.5", 622.3mm scale length. You say that it's a 25.5" scale length, which I'm pretty sure is correct...unless this is some special-case neck.
You're right, I never built anything but 25.5" for my whole career, with only a couple exceptions. Perhaps it's just a psychic Freudian slip across platforms, as we are just now building a new aluminum neck tool in order to be able to create necks with scale lengths of 24.5" - 25.25". Not exacttly sure how this got confused, and no wiser on how to correct it without re-posting the video, but will find out. Thanks for your careful proofreading!
I had to put my respirator on watching this. 😂
I'm finding it hard to talk with a mask on, so thanks for keeping us both safe!
Mr.Parker,
Thank you so much for this wonderful series. It’s a great inspiration.
Do you have issues sourcing that beautiful ebony or do you just have a supplier you trust. Seems hard to tell what one actually gets these days, where it originated, etc.
First, it's never been easy to always be sure of species or origin, this is just not something new, and, I suspect it's probably better than ever with all the new regulations, paper trails, and restrictions.
Ebony is not easy to find in the highest grade, and I'm sorry to say I can't usefully refer you to any supplier, you likely know them as well as I do. I will say that when you do find good material, bust out the wallet and buy all that you can afford.
Ken- do you have a current source for good files? Since Nickelson went to other countries for manufacturing the quality is box store, not what they built their name on. I have tried them and found them terribly disappointing. Ideas to acquire worthy new files?