Yes. Or about 10 seconds in Muriatic acid (pool/paint department or dollar store toilet bowl cleaner). Vinegar is better though, it is safer and does not corrode other things in the vicinity of the acid with vapers.
Mr. Crafter, I've used a little muriatic acid to soak zinc plated screws in to remove the zinc plating and darken the steel. Vinegar may work but would take longer. Always good to follow up with something to coat the hardware with like boiled linseed oil.
Ammo boxes! Love them! But I’ve never seen one from WW1. Thanks for taking this project on- can’t wait to see how it comes out. After all, this box has got to be 105+ years old.
Scout! Toilet bowl cleaner. My go to is Zep. It takes the plating off of everything! Save those salsa jars, let the screws soak in it for several hours. Keep the jar full of toilet cleaner for future use.
Those ammo boxes were probably made by a number of different manufacturers and may have slight variations. Like most things the design was likely simplified to cut costs and increase production as the war progressed. The box John has is therefore most likely an early war or pre-war box. It might have gone up San Juan Hill! Cheers form NC/USA
Tip. Meow Mix Wet Cat Food comes in small orange plastic bowls that are handy for loose screws and such. The pattern in the base allows them to stack nicely. Also, I like to hot glue neodymium magnets into the recess in the bottom so that parts are loosely secured in the bowl. I keep some with magnets, some without. Oh, and the cats don't complain either.
Great video 👍 That WW1 ammunition 🔫 box restoration looks like a challenging and fun project so far. Can’t wait to see part 2 of this project. Great idea 💡 for saw 🪚 dust and glue for the screw holes 🕳👍. I also seen people use tooth picks and glue also. I thought that was a fantastic idea with the soldering iron to heat 🔥the screws when you can’t get a torch near your project 👍. But those screws there l👀k like a 😥😖😡bear to get out from water 💧 damage, and also those screws been in there for over a hundred years in that bracket for the handle. I was glad to see you were able to drill those out and replace them with just a common size screw 🪛👍. Again I can’t wait to see part 2 to see how you finish up this restoration project and see how you tackle the painting 🎨 part of the ammunition box. Those kitty 🐈⬛ food containers are a great idea 👍 for putting your small project parts in and such also the whole container with the lid too would be nice to put some small hardware items in also. Well again great video and have a great evening. 😃👍👍
Steven- One thing I found is that on hinges if the hole gets stripped out you have to be very careful not to knock off the alignment by even a fraction of an inch because of how the lid will close, so jamming in wood strips tends to move the screw to one side or another. 😃👍
Hey scoutcrafter, did you eat your wheaties before attacking those bolts. The hero’s from those days had a lot of pride and strength. I know the moisture played a part, but they were emotionally and exceptional strong. I like the way you are balancing the top. I have never seen one of these before. I was a friend of a world war 2 veteran. I just got his draft papers out to take to museum to be enshrined. He could weld any metal to metal. He ran the engine room on a ship. His name Herbert h Bohse. His brother invented the hot water heater we have in our cars today. He was presented a brand new Buick for his invention. I am very proud to have known this man and call him a true friend. So you brought back memories. He ran a refinishing shop next to my upholstery shop. Thank You John.
Oh my! The hot water heater I had in my 1951 Pontiac was a big unit that sat under the front seat and would supply heat to front and back passengers. Very cool. Thanks Jess!
Hey John, in order to get the screw heads the right color, after getting off the zinc coating, try putting the screw into some Evapo-rust for a couple of hours. The Evapo-rust will turn the screws a gray color and you can wire brush and change them to the color you want. Good luck. Later
Very good progress. A LOT of work. I do not look forward to fighting with rusted hardware. Glad you were able to get everything apart and the screws are a normal diameter and thread. I would also have added the new wood on the top. Looking forward to the next video. Dave.
Those screws brought back memories of fixing old doors and the door frame Drilling out the holes and glueing in 1/4 inch wood dowels and then re-drill the holes I have seen a video where you can use an acid or chemical to eat the zinc coating of of metal
Congrats on the 30K subs! I had a friend's father who was wicked smart with everything mechanical. He built(welded) his handicapped son a bike that could carry a passenger and boy did he get a set of biceps on that kid from biking all over! His favorite trick was to use beeswax after the heat. I thought that might be worth mentioning since its safe on the wood, too. I thought I'd mention one of my favorite simple tricks for wallored out wood holes. Sand it a little, drop of wood glue, tap in a golf tee. Bob's your Uncle because you get to drill a fresh NEW hole (after you trim it. I've even used this trick on old doors that won't hang right. The weight is not a problem as I did my own front door about 25 years ago now. Still functions flawlessly. I'd better shut up and go oil it before I jinx myself!)
That is a good tip! The one issue with hinges are you can’t move the hole location at all or the hinge will not perform like before- Ask me how I know! 😂👍
So glad to see this project today.. when you showed it off I was hoping you do it soon..such a fantastic box... and glad there is a part 2 honestly.. you capture your approach to projects so well and always wiggle out of trouble you come too.. its great to see and learn from... good stuff!!
I’m really interested in seeing how this turns out, especially since you ended up adding to the top lid with new wood. That should be really interesting to see how it blends
Great job so far...glad to see the crafterman couldn't spit shine this box after one war and 100 years ...a bit harder to keep the patina and clean off the grime and rust...this box is a tribute to its time and you will do it justice ...i know it...careful you may become a patina fan...😳 can't wait for Wednesday...🖖
How coincidental! I too have been working on box fans for the house. Well, your tutorials on motor breakdowns, cleanings, etc have been very helpful. Ut-Oh! Roadblock...3 way plastic switch was broken and barely making contacts...ACE, Menards, AND Lowes did not have a replacement. Love the Ammo Box!
I like to set the threaded nut portion on a soild surface and tap the head of the screw with a starting punch It compresses the material, wood in this case. and loosens the threads in the threaded plate. The soldering iron is a good idea but I think it needs to go hotter. Perhaps putting the heat on the threaded plate to expand the hole and bring it up to 250 to 300 degrees. Not enough to scorch but enough to really open the threads for the 50/50. It's all water over the dam on this one. In any case I will oil and tap over a week or more if needed. Some of the stuff we work on is irreplaceable. Good Job Scout! Well begun is half done. 😂😎
Looking good! I will typically heat hardware up to a pretty good temp and cool it in spent motor oil. I let it sit in the oil for a little while the take it out and wipe it down. You can probably take some 0000 steel wool to it to change the finish if it’s not to your liking.
Going back to your last video Sunday Morning should hire you to do their closing credits. Your stream clip was so well shot. Good luck with this ammo box. You certainly will give it the attention it deserves!
Great project, very satisfying if you can get it close to looking like it hasn't been repaired. Spent all day today fighting the copper faces out of a vintage cast iron Thor hammer head (no 2). It was a real battle, so I hope I don't find out there is an easy way to get them out.
BTW not sure what finish you have in mind for the box but since you just mentioned staining it I'll throw this out there, too. I like peanut oil on steel. Light coats, heat to about 400F and it will brown up nicely.
@@ScoutCrafter - From what I know, fretting corrosion takes place at the molecular level. The last time it beat me up, even a 3/4 drive I-R impact gave up.
Hey SC on my poor man air filtering I add a cheap disposable carbon filter in front. Helps with smells and takes the brunt of the dirt particles so the main one needs a lot less replacing.
@@ScoutCrafter it worked so well I made a mini version for my bedroom with 4 10inch Merv 11 allergens filters that cost $25 total and covered it with carbon filter. Used a smallish fan around 10 inches. Say good bye to hay fever!
Hi John. Good start on the amo box. I agree with the gentleman you soak those screws in vinegar to get the right patina you want. I did that many moons ago and it turned out great. I like your air filter also. Can't wait until Wednesday to see how you finish that box. Have a great day. 👍👍❤.
😂😂😂. The pitting doesn’t bother me as much when it’s all over the part. It kills me when I polish a tool and there are two pits right in the middle laughing at me! 🥵🫣😂👍
I have one of those ww1 ammo boxes, I paid 35 dollars for it at a antique store, someday Ill make a new handel for it (someone used a door handel inplace of a leather one.)
Awesome job man! A hand plane would make quick work of matching those angles with the wood you glued on! Thanks for all your effort on the videos! There always great!!
Brian- I have found in order to be proficient with hand planes you have to use them constantly, keep them razor sharp and tuned up. Years ago I ruined two projects with hand planes and put them away. 😂👍
I’m trying to imagine the level of workmanship, material, and manpower required to fill the demand for thousands of these containers; in the right conditions no doubt burned to stay warm or cook. What a waste of oak, plentiful though for the times.
Absolutely! I remember hearing that when the Germans captured a Russian T-34 tank for the first time they were horrified at the welds and second rate workmanship, however the Russians were producing 4 tanks for every one German tank. 😃👍
Wow! I knew you were the right man for this job! That box was sitting on the shelf in my shop for over 10 years just waiting for some TLC. What do you think about trying to "blue" the hinge and maybe the screw heads. I suppose you would have to figure out a way to blue the latch as well. Thanks for giving this box the attention it deserves!
Mike- What a fantastic project. I’ve been looking at loads of images on line wondering how they made these originally- Apparently when they were first produced they were wood colored with natural steel hardware, camouflage was just coming into style and soon they were given a slather of green paint as to not stand out. The green paint wasn’t as of yet standardized so there are many shades of Green represented. Super cool item! 😃👍
I have yet to see a new ammo box! I only see surplus stuff so if they changed over I have yet to see them. I remember heavy duty polymer type boxes for aircraft rounds and special ordinance but never small arms munitions. 😃👍
@@ScoutCrafter I have two of them and planning on buying more, I have the old steel ones as well. The plastic ones are much lighter and easy to carry, but when it comes to toughness I would still get the still ones. It depends on what the inviroment is, if you would be deployed on a whet and moist one like the jungle the plastic ones are very good. And in my opinion are tough enough for the job, but on the long run the steel ones would have a longer life I presume. Anyway I bought them from a army surplus shop in my country, they are new and on them it says NATO mil spec, made in Germany. They were shipped from a German military wearhouse and they arrived in 4 days, but my country isn't that far away from Germany.
Veery nice! I've always heated around the rusted screw-bolt-fastener so it expands, not the fastener... Excited to see how to match that repair! Steel wool vinegar concoction?.
The expansion contraction of the fasteners usually breaks the rust bond. The key is to heat up the area, then cool it again so the actual movement breaks the bond. If you have a small female area like a nut then the heat would be applied to the nut, if the bolt is in a engine block heat the bolt. 😃👍
Just one question if I may and that is the screw size, why is 10 32nds not referred to as 5 16ths which is the same fraction, I was always taught to calculate down?
It's 32 threads per inch and the No. 10 size is actually about 3/16 of an inch, not sure why it's called a No. 10......They're not really called 10-32nds, they're just 10-32......10 being the size/diameter and 32 being the threads per inch.
Hi Mike- Raw Bacon is spot on- Most US screw sizes are categorized as such- first the thickness indicated by a number- 6, 8, and 10 are most common and that refers to the diameter of the fastener. Now on a machine screw the next number is TPI or threads per inch- examples 10-32, 10-24…. The last number will be the length of the screw- ie- 10-32 x 1/2” now for wood screws there is no TPI listed because it’s standard so a wood screw would just say #10 x 1/2”. 😃👍
Every project I do takes an hour but glue/paint/finish takes a week....Even making a simple sign for the side of the road yesterday took all day even though it was about five minutes worth of work......That's interesting about that half-moon hardware, I wonder how rare that is?
I am the same way- Every job is a project! 😂. I think that’s why I don’t get much done. Even changing my oil takes an hour between getting everything ready, doing the job and putting everything away- I need a nap afterwards. 😂👍
I like the two part series, especially when your working on a restoration such as this, excellent tips on the screws and screw holes, just really like the way your approaching the restoration sir. Wondering, and you may have already thought about this, on the paint application if you would consider a wash of the color of choice, that may give you the worn or used look, just a thought sir, thanks for the video, enjoying it.
So do you have any idea what is the purpose of the vertical grooves cut into the sides of the front end? Most of the other examples of boxes you showed have the same grooves cut into them. It must have served a purpose, otherwise why bother cutting the grooves.
That Box fell into the right hands!! Make us Proud of ya Bud!!☻
What a fantastic project for the channel- Thanks again so much for thinking of us! 😃👍
Indeed
That looks like a fun project! I have had success removing the hardware store zinc plating by soaking in white vinegar.
good tip thanks. I hate wire brushing it of because of its toxicity.
1-2 hours (or longer for desired patina) in vinegar will 'age' new zinc screws. I've recently had to do it on a 1964 amplifier restoration.
Yes. Or about 10 seconds in Muriatic acid (pool/paint department or dollar store toilet bowl cleaner). Vinegar is better though, it is safer and does not corrode other things in the vicinity of the acid with vapers.
Mr. Crafter, I've used a little muriatic acid to soak zinc plated screws in to remove the zinc plating and darken the steel. Vinegar may work but would take longer. Always good to follow up with something to coat the hardware with like boiled linseed oil.
Ammo boxes! Love them! But I’ve never seen one from WW1. Thanks for taking this project on- can’t wait to see how it comes out. After all, this box has got to be 105+ years old.
Ralph- If this box could talk! 😃👍
Scout! Toilet bowl cleaner. My go to is Zep. It takes the plating off of everything! Save those salsa jars, let the screws soak in it for several hours. Keep the jar full of toilet cleaner for future use.
Those ammo boxes were probably made by a number of different manufacturers and may have slight variations. Like most things the design was likely simplified to cut costs and increase production as the war progressed. The box John has is therefore most likely an early war or pre-war box. It might have gone up San Juan Hill!
Cheers form NC/USA
Very interesting project John ! Can’t wait till Wednesday 😃. Thank You for sharing.
Nice work on a World War I artifact, thank you for your careful restoration.
Tip. Meow Mix Wet Cat Food comes in small orange plastic bowls that are handy for loose screws and such. The pattern in the base allows them to stack nicely. Also, I like to hot glue neodymium magnets into the recess in the bottom so that parts are loosely secured in the bowl. I keep some with magnets, some without. Oh, and the cats don't complain either.
My cats like the Red top the best! 😃👍
Great video 👍 That WW1 ammunition 🔫 box restoration looks like a challenging and fun project so far. Can’t wait to see part 2 of this project. Great idea 💡 for saw 🪚 dust and glue for the screw holes 🕳👍. I also seen people use tooth picks and glue also. I thought that was a fantastic idea with the soldering iron to heat 🔥the screws when you can’t get a torch near your project 👍. But those screws there l👀k like a 😥😖😡bear to get out from water 💧 damage, and also those screws been in there for over a hundred years in that bracket for the handle. I was glad to see you were able to drill those out and replace them with just a common size screw 🪛👍. Again I can’t wait to see part 2 to see how you finish up this restoration project and see how you tackle the painting 🎨 part of the ammunition box. Those kitty 🐈⬛ food containers are a great idea 👍 for putting your small project parts in and such also the whole container with the lid too would be nice to put some small hardware items in also. Well again great video and have a great evening. 😃👍👍
Steven- One thing I found is that on hinges if the hole gets stripped out you have to be very careful not to knock off the alignment by even a fraction of an inch because of how the lid will close, so jamming in wood strips tends to move the screw to one side or another. 😃👍
I LOVE the two part project! I would also really like one episode dedicated to you showing us some of the great PMFM finds you’ve rescued!
Way to go Scout, you’re in deep now but as you say, it’s a challenge and a new skill set but I’m confident you’ll get it right. Cheers mate, Stuart 🇦🇺
Hey scoutcrafter, did you eat your wheaties before attacking those bolts. The hero’s from those days had a lot of pride and strength. I know the moisture played a part, but they were emotionally and exceptional strong. I like the way you are balancing the top. I have never seen one of these before. I was a friend of a world war 2 veteran. I just got his draft papers out to take to museum to be enshrined. He could weld any metal to metal. He ran the engine room on a ship. His name Herbert h Bohse. His brother invented the hot water heater we have in our cars today. He was presented a brand new Buick for his invention. I am very proud to have known this man and call him a true friend. So you brought back memories. He ran a refinishing shop next to my upholstery shop. Thank You John.
Oh my! The hot water heater I had in my 1951 Pontiac was a big unit that sat under the front seat and would supply heat to front and back passengers. Very cool. Thanks Jess!
Hey John, in order to get the screw heads the right color, after getting off the zinc coating, try putting the screw into some Evapo-rust for a couple of hours. The Evapo-rust will turn the screws a gray color and you can wire brush and change them to the color you want. Good luck. Later
You are an artist. Maybe you could donate that box to an appropriate military museum. They would be lucky to have it. Great video.
Very good progress. A LOT of work. I do not look forward to fighting with rusted hardware. Glad you were able to get everything apart and the screws are a normal diameter and thread. I would also have added the new wood on the top.
Looking forward to the next video.
Dave.
No problems with doing it in 2 parts because we all know it’s going to be worth the wait 👍
Those screws brought back memories of fixing old doors and the door frame Drilling out the holes and glueing in 1/4 inch wood dowels and then re-drill the holes I have seen a video where you can use an acid or chemical to eat the zinc coating of of metal
Mish-mosh-Monday - always a favourite.
Congrats on the 30K subs! I had a friend's father who was wicked smart with everything mechanical. He built(welded) his handicapped son a bike that could carry a passenger and boy did he get a set of biceps on that kid from biking all over! His favorite trick was to use beeswax after the heat. I thought that might be worth mentioning since its safe on the wood, too.
I thought I'd mention one of my favorite simple tricks for wallored out wood holes. Sand it a little, drop of wood glue, tap in a golf tee. Bob's your Uncle because you get to drill a fresh NEW hole (after you trim it. I've even used this trick on old doors that won't hang right. The weight is not a problem as I did my own front door about 25 years ago now. Still functions flawlessly. I'd better shut up and go oil it before I jinx myself!)
That is a good tip! The one issue with hinges are you can’t move the hole location at all or the hinge will not perform like before- Ask me how I know! 😂👍
So glad to see this project today.. when you showed it off I was hoping you do it soon..such a fantastic box... and glad there is a part 2 honestly.. you capture your approach to projects so well and always wiggle out of trouble you come too.. its great to see and learn from... good stuff!!
Vic- Lots of wiggling on this one! 😂👍
The woodworker in me cringed when he put that lid to the bandsaw w/o a rip fence!
Thinking outside of the box! 😜🤪. Seriously, nice find. WW1? Very rare.
WOW, THAT IS AN OLDIE, LOOKIN' GOOD, KEEP WELL...
Cant wait for part 2....once i saw the bandsaw I knew this was gonna be a great restoration. Cheers
Nice project. I've got five of the more common WWII era .50 caliber boxes. I've had them since the 70's, I think. Still in use, today.
Those are really well made. 😃👍
I’m really interested in seeing how this turns out, especially since you ended up adding to the top lid with new wood. That should be really interesting to see how it blends
Golf tees are my old trick for repairing elongated holes. Works fantastic for door hinges as well
Great job so far...glad to see the crafterman couldn't spit shine this box after one war and 100 years ...a bit harder to keep the patina and clean off the grime and rust...this box is a tribute to its time and you will do it justice ...i know it...careful you may become a patina fan...😳 can't wait for Wednesday...🖖
How coincidental! I too have been working on box fans for the house. Well, your tutorials on motor breakdowns, cleanings, etc have been very helpful.
Ut-Oh! Roadblock...3 way plastic switch was broken and barely making contacts...ACE, Menards, AND Lowes did not have a replacement.
Love the Ammo Box!
Those 3 way switches were often a problem is older fans. 🤔👍
Honestly it's nice to see you struggle a bit on one of your projects -- makes it more relatable! This one way more resembles my average restoration!
The struggle is real! =D
I like to set the threaded nut portion on a soild surface and tap the head of the screw with a starting punch
It compresses the material, wood in this case. and loosens the threads in the threaded plate.
The soldering iron is a good idea but I think it needs to go hotter. Perhaps putting the heat on the threaded plate to expand the hole and bring it up to 250 to 300 degrees. Not enough to scorch but enough to really open the threads for the 50/50.
It's all water over the dam on this one.
In any case I will oil and tap over a week or more if needed.
Some of the stuff we work on is irreplaceable.
Good Job Scout! Well begun is half done. 😂😎
Dave- Luckily it was only that one plate, the rest came free. Imagine the history of this box…. 😃😃
Interesting project John, but boy, that box fought you all the way, looking forward to seeing the end result !
It'll be worth the wait! Looking good...
Got to love an Ammo box! 🛠👍😊
Cool box. A collectors's item for sure.
That box I’m sure will be awesome when it’s done. Looking forward. Great idea with those plastic containers! Gives me an idea for my home!
Looking good! I will typically heat hardware up to a pretty good temp and cool it in spent motor oil. I let it sit in the oil for a little while the take it out and wipe it down. You can probably take some 0000 steel wool to it to change the finish if it’s not to your liking.
What a cliff hanger! Can't wait to see it finished!
WoW - I've never WW 1 ammo box.
In fact I never knew they existed. Can't wait to see it restored.
Very nice work S.C.. Can't wait until Wed to see it finished... Take care...
I like a two part resto. Gives me an excuse to tune in on Wednesday.
Great call on the box lid no way it could have been left can’t wait to see
How it turns out love it god bless take care 🗽🇳🇿🇺🇸🙏🦅🪖45
Going back to your last video Sunday Morning should hire you to do their closing credits. Your stream clip was so well shot. Good luck with this ammo box. You certainly will give it the attention it deserves!
Andrew- Do you know I have a video of a bunch of different flag shots I filmed of my flag. 😂👍
Do what you need to do and we've got your back, Pal! Blessings!
That’s shaping up to be a magnificent restoration project mate.
Always great to see what you come up with in each video.
Looking forward to seeing how you match the color. Fun project.
This is really interesting and I can see this is a big challenge but I know you can do it right. Thanks for sharing this.
HCL / Muriatic acid removes zinc plating. Vinegar as well, but much slower.
Great project, very satisfying if you can get it close to looking like it hasn't been repaired.
Spent all day today fighting the copper faces out of a vintage cast iron Thor hammer head (no 2). It was a real battle, so I hope I don't find out there is an easy way to get them out.
😂. It’s true! Nothing like sweating and bleeding over something and someone says “hit it with heat and they drop right out”. 😳🫣😂👍
Nice project, nice work, I’ve handled hundreds of ammo boxes, but jeez, even old ammo boxes have style 😊🇬🇧
Tony- you are so right!
@@ScoutCrafter looking forward to your next episode, nothing wrong with a two parter, I’ve done it on my last tool haul 😂
John, I think those stuck screws were peened over a bit. Can't wait for part 2
Jim- I was putting all my force on them- 😂👍
BTW not sure what finish you have in mind for the box but since you just mentioned staining it I'll throw this out there, too. I like peanut oil on steel. Light coats, heat to about 400F and it will brown up nicely.
Great project! Can't wait to see more.
The stuck screw might have been a case of fretting corrosion, Scout. I've only encountered it once for sure, but that was one too many times.
That was like a weld! 😂👍
@@ScoutCrafter - From what I know, fretting corrosion takes place at the molecular level. The last time it beat me up, even a 3/4 drive I-R impact gave up.
Time to break out the 50/50.
Good job as always,sir...thnx for sharing...
Cool and ambitious undertaking!!!
Hey, nothing wrong with a two part episode. Looking good so far. I hope we get some rain here in NJ soon
Love those old ammo boxes, I had a few before I sold everything. Great work!
Hey SC on my poor man air filtering I add a cheap disposable carbon filter in front. Helps with smells and takes the brunt of the dirt particles so the main one needs a lot less replacing.
Awesome idea! 😃👍
@@ScoutCrafter it worked so well I made a mini version for my bedroom with 4 10inch Merv 11 allergens filters that cost $25 total and covered it with carbon filter. Used a smallish fan around 10 inches. Say good bye to hay fever!
I vote to paint it OD green and then distress the paint for vintage look.
Ha! What a can of worms.
Keep at it. If you weren't doing this great work, you'd be looking for or working on something else...
Great work.
If you cut one of the temptations containers higher up you have a lid for it one on top of the other 😊
Looking great so far. To remove the zinc i've found that a white vinegar soak will strip it off.
Hi John. Good start on the amo box. I agree with the gentleman you soak those screws in vinegar to get the right patina you want. I did that many moons ago and it turned out great. I like your air filter also. Can't wait until Wednesday to see how you finish that box. Have a great day. 👍👍❤.
Looking forward to Wednesday 👍
You're doing well so far! I hope you'll have a great week!
Looking forward to part 2
Gotcha 👍👍🔩🔩
good stuff, tanks for sharing...
Jeez John bet leaving that pitting on that hinge kept you up at night 😵💫😵💫😵💫. 🤣
😂😂😂. The pitting doesn’t bother me as much when it’s all over the part. It kills me when I polish a tool and there are two pits right in the middle laughing at me! 🥵🫣😂👍
I have one of those ww1 ammo boxes, I paid 35 dollars for it at a antique store, someday Ill make a new handel for it (someone used a door handel inplace of a leather one.)
I’m shocked at how expensive they have become! 😃👍
Awesome job man! A hand plane would make quick work of matching those angles with the wood you glued on! Thanks for all your effort on the videos! There always great!!
Brian- I have found in order to be proficient with hand planes you have to use them constantly, keep them razor sharp and tuned up. Years ago I ruined two projects with hand planes and put them away. 😂👍
@@ScoutCrafter you are correct on all points sir! Razor sharp is key! I’m excited to see how this turns out!
Looking good so far,shame about the broken screws,looking forward to pt 2,thanks again😊
I have one of those boxes I'll have to check and see, although mine no longer has the handle strap
Rob- They had a bunch of different handle materials from leather to cotton webbing to metal! 😃👍
Very good video.
Can't wait to see the final results
So far , So good!
Yeah those WW1 screws are tough to open
Good job getting screws out
ScoitCrafter doing wood work? turned out really nice!!
I’m trying to imagine the level of workmanship, material, and manpower required to fill the demand for thousands of these containers; in the right conditions no doubt burned to stay warm or cook. What a waste of oak, plentiful though for the times.
Absolutely! I remember hearing that when the Germans captured a Russian T-34 tank for the first time they were horrified at the welds and second rate workmanship, however the Russians were producing 4 tanks for every one German tank. 😃👍
Rust, natures loctite as they say
Wow! I knew you were the right man for this job! That box was sitting on the shelf in my shop for over 10 years just waiting for some TLC. What do you think about trying to "blue" the hinge and maybe the screw heads. I suppose you would have to figure out a way to blue the latch as well.
Thanks for giving this box the attention it deserves!
Mike- What a fantastic project. I’ve been looking at loads of images on line wondering how they made these originally- Apparently when they were first produced they were wood colored with natural steel hardware, camouflage was just coming into style and soon they were given a slather of green paint as to not stand out. The green paint wasn’t as of yet standardized so there are many shades of Green represented. Super cool item! 😃👍
Use vinegar to age the screws! It removes zinc too I think.
No, the newest ammo boxes are made from some type of hard polymer. At least the NATO ones are.
I have yet to see a new ammo box! I only see surplus stuff so if they changed over I have yet to see them. I remember heavy duty polymer type boxes for aircraft rounds and special ordinance but never small arms munitions. 😃👍
@@ScoutCrafter I have two of them and planning on buying more, I have the old steel ones as well. The plastic ones are much lighter and easy to carry, but when it comes to toughness I would still get the still ones. It depends on what the inviroment is, if you would be deployed on a whet and moist one like the jungle the plastic ones are very good. And in my opinion are tough enough for the job, but on the long run the steel ones would have a longer life I presume.
Anyway I bought them from a army surplus shop in my country, they are new and on them it says NATO mil spec, made in Germany. They were shipped from a German military wearhouse and they arrived in 4 days, but my country isn't that far away from Germany.
A few seconds in muriatic/hydrochloric acid will remove all the zinc from those screws. 👍🏼
i aint sure but doesn't hot vinegar strips zinc coating?
Veery nice! I've always heated around the rusted screw-bolt-fastener so it expands, not the fastener...
Excited to see how to match that repair! Steel wool vinegar concoction?.
The expansion contraction of the fasteners usually breaks the rust bond. The key is to heat up the area, then cool it again so the actual movement breaks the bond. If you have a small female area like a nut then the heat would be applied to the nut, if the bolt is in a engine block heat the bolt. 😃👍
Just one question if I may and that is the screw size, why is 10 32nds not referred to as 5 16ths which is the same fraction, I was always taught to calculate down?
It's 32 threads per inch and the No. 10 size is actually about 3/16 of an inch, not sure why it's called a No. 10......They're not really called 10-32nds, they're just 10-32......10 being the size/diameter and 32 being the threads per inch.
Hi Mike- Raw Bacon is spot on- Most US screw sizes are categorized as such- first the thickness indicated by a number- 6, 8, and 10 are most common and that refers to the diameter of the fastener. Now on a machine screw the next number is TPI or threads per inch- examples 10-32, 10-24…. The last number will be the length of the screw- ie- 10-32 x 1/2” now for wood screws there is no TPI listed because it’s standard so a wood screw would just say #10 x 1/2”. 😃👍
@@ScoutCrafter Thank you for that explanation, 🙂
@@rawbacon Thank you for answering my query, you and scoutcrafter have cleared this up nicely for me🙂
Every project I do takes an hour but glue/paint/finish takes a week....Even making a simple sign for the side of the road yesterday took all day even though it was about five minutes worth of work......That's interesting about that half-moon hardware, I wonder how rare that is?
I am the same way- Every job is a project! 😂. I think that’s why I don’t get much done. Even changing my oil takes an hour between getting everything ready, doing the job and putting everything away- I need a nap afterwards. 😂👍
@@ScoutCrafter I usually need a nap before I get started and maybe I'll actually do something, but the post-nap is a definite requirement. Cheers! Jim
How do you check the threads of the screw? Would you show that at some point?
You obviously disagree but I don’t understand why the damaged lid needed to be “fixed.” It had far more character, having endured.
This lid had a few areas of dry rot and was pulverizing under touch. My goal is to make this look at home if it was in a museum display.
I like the two part series, especially when your working on a restoration such as this, excellent tips on the screws and screw holes, just really like the way your approaching the restoration sir. Wondering, and you may have already thought about this, on the paint application if you would consider a wash of the color of choice, that may give you the worn or used look, just a thought sir, thanks for the video, enjoying it.
Hi Terry- Like the last box I did I want this to look original yet slightly aged, just like you found it in 1918 in a trench. 😃👍
Going from ammo box to a Ima Box for peace. 15:17
I’m curious , what is purpose of the slots cut in the sides ?? Very interesting !
All those slots and cutouts were meant to slide on to the 30 Cal tripod- They would hold the box vertical for belt feed I believe. 😃👍
Interesting
So do you have any idea what is the purpose of the vertical grooves cut into the sides of the front end? Most of the other examples of boxes you showed have the same grooves cut into them. It must have served a purpose, otherwise why bother cutting the grooves.
Those grooves allowed this box to slide on to the Tripod that accompanied the 30 cal machine gun! 😃👍
@@ScoutCrafter Cooooool! You should mention that in part 2! 👍😁👍
John: Is (Starrett) mineral oil that you spoke about last week the same as odorless mineral spirits?
Hi Dennis- No mineral oil is like baby oil- clear and slippery. Mineral sprits is used mostly to thin paint and clean brushes among other things. 😃👍