bro apply again after one month and no need to worry about whole year and also use conformal coating & Kapton tape and only thin layer you should apply after that one final coat just like thin paint and don't make any bubble
i only use liquid metal on nickel plated copper. the nickel plating prevents the copper from turning bad like at 0:25 after using it on bare copper for 6 months, i had to scrub it off the copper and then polish the copper with sand paper and a polish to make it flat again. its not worth it on bare copper and it will degrade way to quick. and for a laptop i would anyways use those thermal grizzly minus pads, which have to be never swapped out again and they perform better then thermal paste. (but they are quite expensive)
eemmh, did you apply the liquidmetal on both cpu and cooler plate?, i mean not separatedly when you opened again.., you have to apply on both surfaces.
As someone who was team liquid metal for nearly 6 years, don't use liquid metal on laptops. Most will be fine with it, but some just won't be compatible with it no matter how much effort you put into it without outright replacing the heatsink with something custom. I used to use it on all of my laptops until for some reason despite significant effort put into isolation some got loose after ~2 years and fried the vrm. Unlucky but leaves a bad taste when the other ~35 applications went perfectly fine. Fixed it eventually (micro soldering board repair is hard AF) but lesson learned. Some heatsinks aren't designed for it and attempting to create your own isolation barrier using just some foam and kapton tape doesn't cut it. Needs to be solid, essentially waterproof layer of tape around the die to guarantee no issues, plus you have to apply enough to account for the galvanization. You'll eventually run into problems with it with some laptop. I estimate failure rates of ~1-2%. So it may literally take ~50-100+ laptops before you personally run into an issue. But you WILL run into an issue eventually. To resolve all of that hassle with a very very close to 0% failure rate (probably around 1 in 100k), just slap a PCM on it and call it a day. Honeywell 7950, laird 7000, or other formulations of it unisiren pcm-1, thermal grizzy pcm, etc... It's not as good as a perfect application of liquid metal yes, but it has a service life you can measure in DECADES instead of months and will instantly shoot to the top of a thermal paste comparison chart (after about 6+ months) due to just how incredibly resistant to pump out it is. TLDR: Only use PCM based thermal interfaces on bare dies!
It’s the chipset controller. Low power chip. If he were to add LM on it, it would share the head load and may cause it to overheat. Apple from the factory wouldn’t cover it either in thermal paste. The 13” model actually doesn’t even have the contact plate cover it.
Who learn you to use liquid metal on copper heatsink? How did you pass the chemistry lab? Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut contains Galium and that one, my friend reacts with Copper and Aluminium, you know? Obviously you don't, as your video shows!.. You need a heatsink that is plated with Nickel!
with normal thermal paste, do you notice any pump out effect with gd900? i bought areonaut from TG, that scored well at first before dropping to 3000, i then got syy157 which got me upto 3470 but that then dropped within 1 week to 3200, when i take the heat sink off the thermal paste appears to be milky and watery, not really a viscous paste anymore, is that normal with these macbooks?
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To anyone wondering, don't even consider liquid metal as a thermal interface.
Use PTM 7950/7958, or Laird TPCM.
bro apply again after one month and no need to worry about whole year and also use conformal coating & Kapton tape and only thin layer you should apply after that one final coat just like thin paint and don't make any bubble
i only use liquid metal on nickel plated copper. the nickel plating prevents the copper from turning bad like at 0:25
after using it on bare copper for 6 months, i had to scrub it off the copper and then polish the copper with sand paper and a polish to make it flat again.
its not worth it on bare copper and it will degrade way to quick.
and for a laptop i would anyways use those thermal grizzly minus pads, which have to be never swapped out again and they perform better then thermal paste. (but they are quite expensive)
eemmh, did you apply the liquidmetal on both cpu and cooler plate?, i mean not separatedly when you opened again.., you have to apply on both surfaces.
As someone who was team liquid metal for nearly 6 years, don't use liquid metal on laptops. Most will be fine with it, but some just won't be compatible with it no matter how much effort you put into it without outright replacing the heatsink with something custom. I used to use it on all of my laptops until for some reason despite significant effort put into isolation some got loose after ~2 years and fried the vrm. Unlucky but leaves a bad taste when the other ~35 applications went perfectly fine. Fixed it eventually (micro soldering board repair is hard AF) but lesson learned. Some heatsinks aren't designed for it and attempting to create your own isolation barrier using just some foam and kapton tape doesn't cut it. Needs to be solid, essentially waterproof layer of tape around the die to guarantee no issues, plus you have to apply enough to account for the galvanization. You'll eventually run into problems with it with some laptop. I estimate failure rates of ~1-2%. So it may literally take ~50-100+ laptops before you personally run into an issue. But you WILL run into an issue eventually.
To resolve all of that hassle with a very very close to 0% failure rate (probably around 1 in 100k), just slap a PCM on it and call it a day. Honeywell 7950, laird 7000, or other formulations of it unisiren pcm-1, thermal grizzy pcm, etc...
It's not as good as a perfect application of liquid metal yes, but it has a service life you can measure in DECADES instead of months and will instantly shoot to the top of a thermal paste comparison chart (after about 6+ months) due to just how incredibly resistant to pump out it is.
TLDR: Only use PCM based thermal interfaces on bare dies!
Why are you leaving the other cpu die (io? video?) bare? You need to put some on both dies. Idk why you keep leaving it bare
It’s the chipset controller. Low power chip. If he were to add LM on it, it would share the head load and may cause it to overheat.
Apple from the factory wouldn’t cover it either in thermal paste. The 13” model actually doesn’t even have the contact plate cover it.
Who learn you to use liquid metal on copper heatsink? How did you pass the chemistry lab?
Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut contains Galium and that one, my friend reacts with Copper and Aluminium, you know? Obviously you don't, as your video shows!..
You need a heatsink that is plated with Nickel!
th-cam.com/video/nW8xm8-CuwE/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared&t=482
We are wating fodmr result thNks mam
with normal thermal paste, do you notice any pump out effect with gd900? i bought areonaut from TG, that scored well at first before dropping to 3000, i then got syy157 which got me upto 3470 but that then dropped within 1 week to 3200, when i take the heat sink off the thermal paste appears to be milky and watery, not really a viscous paste anymore, is that normal with these macbooks?