Very useful Steve. You've definitely been the "strong silent turner" up until recently and yet your skew technique is almost certainly the best I've ever seen (been turning myself for 25 years and am an active member of a club which has had hundreds of pro turners visiting so that's saying something!!) What pro turners always have in common is an efficiency and economy of moves because time is money and they cant waste it. It's an absolute joy to watch and when you add the personal education with advice behind your techniques it gives us enthusiastic mortals much more colour and more information to help develop. So my thanks and if time permits, I for one would fully endorse you posting more like this. Whether you realise it or not, you're one of the best spindle turners out there. Your face grain work is pretty dam good too 🙂. Keep it up and please keep posting. Thanks.
We've learned so much by watching all your videos, Steve, and your comments make it all better. Thanks for all your contributions to the turning world, and thanks for the subs that help us hard of hearing folks. Salute!
Please make more of this kind of video! Most woodturners are hobbyists and there's nothing wrong with that. Many make good stuff. But ... the techniques of a professional with decades of all day, every day experience under his belt is something else. So please share, because 'monkey see, monkey do' and that's how I learnt everything I know :-)
Beautifully explained. The height of the cut definitely escaped me for a while because of the camera angles. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, it has meant a great deal to me and improved my turning no end.
Absolutely loved this direction Steve, added it to my collection of "rewatch these for the basics" videos. Thank you! And yes, more of this would be fantastic!
Best video I have seen explaining the skew chisel and I have watched dozens trying to get the hang of it. I have now got the hang of it with your one sentence " the blade should touch the work piece at the 11 o'clock position." Not one of the videos I watched mentioned this. Thank you so much.
This is exactly the sort of stuff I need. I've been using the skew flat against the rest with height (about 11 o'clock as in the vid) and angle adjusted to give me around 45 degrees cutting angle (edge to the wood about 1/3 of the way up from the short side of the edge) and I'm getting good results for a noob tuner I think, nice and smooth anyway. But I will have to try lifting the longer side of the skew while keeping the bevel in contact. I'd not realised that this was what was happening in your vids but now I look back at them I can see it clearly. Thank you.
Thanks Steve, not been turning too long and everyone says the shew is the hardest tool to learn, but I am inspired to learn how having seen and heard the direction you have given
Thank You! I told a prominent TH-camr that if he wanted to see someone use a skew that he could watch you. He said that was an old video and he didn’t need it. Yea he does!
I love watching all your videos especially the tutorials. The detail when showing the technics you use is so helpful. I really like the skew and when I get it right, the finish is so rewarding. Thanks Steve for your time. Dave
I can vouch that Ashley Isles tools are first quality. One of the key things with a skew is that it must be sharp, then they're lovely tools to work with. Thanks for posting.
Prior to watching this I thought pine was useless for turning anything fancy (or like... anything). The difference you demonstrated between scraping and cutting was a game changer. I have abundant stock of fir and thinking maybe I could use it on the lathe too. The thing is that if the wood is somewhat porous you cannot help poor cuts with sanding, the pores remain unless a filler is used. The only way is to make a planing cut that presses the fibers neatly and tightly to a clean finish. Thanks for the tips! ❤
Thank you for passing on your knowledge! As a beginning woodworker and turner, I've watched many of your videos learning how to develop my technique. as a visual learner, I always walk away with something valuable, but this demonstration with explanation is great! Also, thank you for showing me why I'm getting so much tear out in pine! (and how to fix it!)
Love your work! Thank you for your inspiration! On a sidenote, a year or so ago, after watching many times over, each video you provided, I watched someone else turn with the skew. They had a catch, and made the comment, well I’m not Steve Jones… had to laugh, felt like being caught cheating, like you somehow knew I was watching someone else… Happy new year!
When I started turning, about thirty years ago, I was advised to buy a 2.4m length of pine, cut it into 30cm lengths and lock myself into the workshop using the skew until it was all used up. It worked. Practice is the key, make mistakes, don’t expect perfection, develop your own style and keep the bevel rubbing. I adopted Garry Rance’s round skew and found it suited me well, but also used an oval skew for heavy work like Newel posts etc. The steel of the tools is harder than the tool rest and the round and oval skews are a little more gentle on the tool rest, in my opinion.
@@mergrew0110 it’s all personal choice but I dislike the oval skew. The round skew is excellent. However my skew comes as standard with the long edges rounded over so is just as easy on the tool rest
00:14 00:38 As a brand new noob, this is an excellent tip for me, clear and concise, while so many other videos on this point have had me confused. However a few seconds later I hear; lift till the bevel rubs, (I get this part) but then I hear; lift slightly more and it will naturally ''tip''.... saying this as the skew rotates counter clockwise and is no longer flat on the tool rest as best I can see. shrugs... So if I have this right, is it; Set skew flat on the rest lift handle till bevel rests on the project Rotate handle slightly ? Is it ABC , or ABTC anchor bevel, twist cut? 1:04 2:23 45 degrees (less catching super clean cuts) 2:42 ''but will still cut no matter the angle.''
I have perfected the art of the catch, but your comment about sharp tips... most of my catches start at the end of the exercise, so that makes perfect sense. MORE sharpening. Thankyou.
Thanks for breaking into a bit of instruction. I need all the advice I can get with the skew, I seem to get quite a few catches when doing a bead, straight turning is OK though, I think I occasionally lose concentration and seem to get the point caught but it happens so quick I can't be sure. Great video and very helpful, appreciate the effort you put in.
Thanks for the video. Just had my second practice this evening on a lathe I bought. Its definitely a great way to focus and forget the rest of the world. The points on the lathe are about a cm off however so it's not ideal for a beginner
Thanks it’s definitely therapeutic. The points being off are not to bad for spindle work but if using it for support on bowls or faceplate work it will be a problem.
An excellent video, well explained on the correct techniques to turn wood. A demonstration of doing coves with the chisel would be appreciated, and yes I know, coves should be done with either a detail gouge or spindle gouge in reality as it is faster and leaves a superior finish.
You did have some already posted on your channel but the distance was too far away, perhaps a close up like you have done with the bead demonstrations would be great.
Thank you Steve for your time and willingness to share. Can't wait for more. Watching the video again today but this time it doesn't have transcript or captions. I was going to ask you about particular moment- about the second method of bead cut. The caption said something like "the edge of the chisel mustn't be sharp, or you are inviting a catch " . I can't hear well enough on the video whether it is must or mustn't?
Very enjoyable, and helpful. Though I turn mostly with carbide, I'm thinking I need at least a skew for cutting a clean pommel on spindles, which I just cannot figure out how to do with the carbide without awful tearout.
Why have i never heard anyone recommend resting the skew flat on the tool rest before? Going to try this. I've essentially been afraid to use the she's and have been gravitating to a bowl gouge as you demonstrate where i can.
Yet another great video from the skew expert. 👍 Any suggestions on handle length relative to skew blade length please? I've made my handle & am concerned it's too long and restricting movement, but I don't want to make it too short.
Thank you Steve. May I ask what is the proper length for the handle and how critical is it. The skew and bedan are probably the two most difficult tools to master.
This isn't a rest as you make it look! Lol Enjoying learning from you Steve! I have a question.. my skew has a bit of a hollow grind. I'm wondering if that is more difficult to stay on the bevel as I turn beads because I get a lot of run backs. Maybe just my inexperience. Also my cut is serrated, not smooth. Thank you Jeff
@@jeffdeluca1153 hi Jeff if you are getting an uneven cut or run back on beads you are coming of the bevel. My skew is hollow ground and it is not more difficult to ride the bevel. This post on my instagram might help with catch’s on the beads instagram.com/reel/CwCnpQisBiu/?igsh=MWxrOHVicHM4OWx2YQ==
@@marinabrennecke5495 no problem with hardwood if you check my Facebook or instagram there is loads using hardwood even lignium this one is Oak th-cam.com/video/3Bk-K_Ativs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=r6ANpmV_0Ko-r6Xz Obviously some of the very hard Australian exotic woods you need a few extra cuts but the method is the same
Thank you so much for the explanation. You and Alan Batty are my skew hero’s (mentors). I have repeatedly watched your videos to analyze your technics. In Allan’s video he talks highly about Bill Jones. Are you related? Now if I could only figure out how to get rid of the spiral on my long spindles... even with a steady rest. 😁 Watching your videos have been a tremendous help. Thank you!
Thank you, Bill is no relation but I knew of him. His ivory work was superb. The spiral is from vibration. If you are using a steady rest make sure you don’t over tighten the tailstock and have your tool rest above center and work high on the workpiece. Also don’t have the RPM to fast.
@@woodturner21 Thanks for the advice. I will give it a try. I was wondering if the vibration could be from turning wet wood versus dry wood, or if turning spindles with knots in them would cause the spirals.
@@woodturner21 Thanks! I appreciate your help and quick response. I hope to “turn” your advice into a smooth spindle. I look forward to your future videos. They are inspirational!
I sharpen totally freehand so don’t think my sharpening videos will help much. I have one on my Facebook page if it’s something you want to see. facebook.com/TheWoodturners/videos/660464878243439/
Just watched you make a honey dipper on Instagram it shows a lot of different skew techniques thanks - you make it look so easy! I’ve had conflicting advice in bevel angles though, what’s your preference?
Is the wood you are using in the demonstration green / wet? Should we expect continuous ribbon-like shavings like you get here in dried wood? My shavings are more fragmented and dusty, so I'm wondering if it is my technique or if it is the material. Thank you for the excellent demonstration.
Hi the wood is kiln dried as is every post I make. I never use green wood. Some woods you can’t get ribbons such as Wenge etc but any close grain wood you can get ribbons on dry timber.
@@woodturner21 Can't tell you how much I appreciate your reply. Knowing what things should look like is half the battle. My bet is that I am too hesitant and need an appropriately more aggressive combination of depth of cut, pressure, and feed. I need to practice until it looks like yours since I'm just using poplar, maple, pine, and walnut, maybe some oak. Thanks again.
@@woodturner21 You mention never using green wood. I've some interest in learning to turn chairs of various forms, but the info I encounter make it seem that this must be done with green wood so that the joints will tighten as the wood dries. Some will even dry the portion that is to have a tenon turned into it and bore the mortise into green. Do you know- is all of this necessary? Or can reliable, lasting chairs be made directly from kiln dried wood? I've encountered many weak spindle chairs, some falling to pieces, so I've assumed the "green guys" were right, but maybe the poor chairs I saw weren't made right (or were older than I thought).
I’m no expert on chair making but know the old Windsor chairs were always made with wet wood and Bodgers turned them on pole lathes. Some Windsor chair makers use wet wood However I don’t know of any production chair makers using wet wood so am confident you can make chairs with dry wood.
Evening Steve. In another of your videos, you are working a piece that you describe as being a bit big for the skew but you managed it anyway. For us lesser mortals, what would you say is the maximum diameter to use a skew on?
@@999pil you can use a skew on any size I think the video you saw was talking about roughing out with the skew. I would not normally rough out anything bigger than 70 mm dia. As for how big you use the skew on normal planing cuts I think anything over 120mm is starting to require higher levels of control.
Thank you! The skew is hard to learn. I think most of the problem is not being confident. I can do it with a 10mm parting tool but move to a skew and it goes pear shaped. Same tool use in principle as I use the parting tool like a skew. A mental block or are they different?
The principles are the same but the feel is different. Relax and cut low on the cutting edge. If you can use a parting tool like a skew there’s no reason you can’t use a skew.
@@woodturner21 thank you, that’s my thinking too. I might try a narrow skew and step up the width of the skew as confidence grows. Thank you for taking the time to share your skills and help us to learn. Happy New Year 🤓
@@leewells1871 I was just saying to Steve that I bought a 1" round cornered skew on his advice a few years back. This skew made the learning curve much simpler. For my experience, the 1" skew seems to be much easier to control than the 3/4" skew. And the round cornered shank helps also.
Yes you can use it on wet or dry wood. It’s generally for spindles only though so normally dry wood. A longer handle in my opinion gives you better control but it’s personal choice.
No clue who said it, but from an unknown skew master, "the bevel should rub the wood, but the wood should not know it." I am getting better, but need to turn several thousand more spindles...
Very useful Steve. You've definitely been the "strong silent turner" up until recently and yet your skew technique is almost certainly the best I've ever seen (been turning myself for 25 years and am an active member of a club which has had hundreds of pro turners visiting so that's saying something!!) What pro turners always have in common is an efficiency and economy of moves because time is money and they cant waste it. It's an absolute joy to watch and when you add the personal education with advice behind your techniques it gives us enthusiastic mortals much more colour and more information to help develop. So my thanks and if time permits, I for one would fully endorse you posting more like this. Whether you realise it or not, you're one of the best spindle turners out there. Your face grain work is pretty dam good too 🙂. Keep it up and please keep posting. Thanks.
Thank you for your kind words. I will try to post more but as you say time is limited.
We've learned so much by watching all your videos, Steve, and your comments make it all better. Thanks for all your contributions to the turning world, and thanks for the subs that help us hard of hearing folks. Salute!
Thank you
Good lesson. I haven't mastered the scew yet so this is helpful. Thanks
@@markh4926 thank you
Please make more of this kind of video!
Most woodturners are hobbyists and there's nothing wrong with that. Many make good stuff.
But ... the techniques of a professional with decades of all day, every day experience under his belt is something else.
So please share, because 'monkey see, monkey do' and that's how I learnt everything I know :-)
Thank you, I’ll try but time is short these days
This guy is going to teach me how to use the skew after so many years of struggle lol.... Thanks for the vid makes it a bit easier to understand..
@@Realinformer thank you
Beautifully explained. The height of the cut definitely escaped me for a while because of the camera angles.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, it has meant a great deal to me and improved my turning no end.
Thank you I’m pleased my videos have been a help
Very insightfull to the extra explanation. Thank you.
Thank you
Unbelievable work. Thank you so much for the great info. So helpful. I will be watching a few times to catch all that!!
Thank you
@woodturner21 you're a true master sharing. Thanks.
Absolutely loved this direction Steve, added it to my collection of "rewatch these for the basics" videos. Thank you! And yes, more of this would be fantastic!
Thank you I’m happy this helps.
Best video I have seen explaining the skew chisel and I have watched dozens trying to get the hang of it. I have now got the hang of it with your one sentence " the blade should touch the work piece at the 11 o'clock position." Not one of the videos I watched mentioned this. Thank you so much.
@@steveydent thank you I’m pleased it had helped
Very helpful. Your explanation was very clear. The demonstration of the angles taught me a lot. Thank you very much.
@@JosephTroncale thank you
This is exactly the sort of stuff I need. I've been using the skew flat against the rest with height (about 11 o'clock as in the vid) and angle adjusted to give me around 45 degrees cutting angle (edge to the wood about 1/3 of the way up from the short side of the edge) and I'm getting good results for a noob tuner I think, nice and smooth anyway. But I will have to try lifting the longer side of the skew while keeping the bevel in contact. I'd not realised that this was what was happening in your vids but now I look back at them I can see it clearly. Thank you.
Thank you for your comment I’m pleased you like it
This was super helpful. Thanks you so much. I'd love to see more like this if you are so inclined.
Thank you it will depend on time but I’ll try.
You're one of the most skilled woodturners I've come across on youtube! Thank you so much!
Thank you
Very nice video Steve. Well done! People should not fear the skew.
Thank you and agree 100%
Thanks Steve, not been turning too long and everyone says the shew is the hardest tool to learn, but I am inspired to learn how having seen and heard the direction you have given
Thank you and it’s worth learning early, don’t fear it the skew is not a dangerous as a bowl gouge.
Thank You! I told a prominent TH-camr that if he wanted to see someone use a skew that he could watch you. He said that was an old video and he didn’t need it. Yea he does!
Lol thank you
Wonderful video, Steve. One of the most helpful videos on using the skew. Thanks
Thank you
I love watching all your videos especially the tutorials.
The detail when showing the technics you use is so helpful. I really like the skew and when I get it right, the finish is so rewarding.
Thanks Steve for your time.
Dave
Thank you I’m pleased my videos have helped
Greetings! Thank you so much for imparting your valuable knowledge and expertise. It's always greatly appreciated. 👍
Thank you
From one Steve to another, thanks for the great instructions. I have a hard time finding skews in the US that have the radiused edge. Thanks again.
Thank you I am surprised more manufacturers don’t do it. Ashley Iles will post internationally and Crown also.
Again, thanks much.
Yes, very useful. All info, no time wasting waffle. Thank you.
Thank you
I can vouch that Ashley Isles tools are first quality. One of the key things with a skew is that it must be sharp, then they're lovely tools to work with. Thanks for posting.
Thank you
Greetings from Maryland, USA Steve! Thanks as always for your helpful videos. Happy 2023!
Thank you happy new year to you
Thanks Steve! Only just found your channel after Mike Waldt's piece on your charity walk. I've subscribed and will definately be watching more!
Thank you
Very helpful. LOL! The video you were watching showing all the bad scraping and such was probably MY video. Thanks for showing me the correct way.
Thank you
Brilliant video for learning some of the basics of the skew. Thank you.
Thank you for your comment
Steve THANK YOU! This is a tremendous video help straight away from the master himself! Fully appreciated friend!
Thank you for your comment
I like this format a lot. Watching your normal speed stuff is impressive but pretty hard to replicate lol.
Glad you enjoy it!
@@woodturner21 I do very much. Wish you lived near me and could take a student. Love watching your work. Alas I think we are in different continents:)
Came here from FB. Very glad I found this page. Looking forward to learning more from your great skew technique.
Thank you
Prior to watching this I thought pine was useless for turning anything fancy (or like... anything). The difference you demonstrated between scraping and cutting was a game changer. I have abundant stock of fir and thinking maybe I could use it on the lathe too. The thing is that if the wood is somewhat porous you cannot help poor cuts with sanding, the pores remain unless a filler is used. The only way is to make a planing cut that presses the fibers neatly and tightly to a clean finish. Thanks for the tips! ❤
Thank you for taking time to comment.
Always a pleasure to watch your videos.
Thank you
Great information. Learned a lot watching your videos. Thank you.
Thank you
Excellent instruction Steve, answered some questions for me. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you that’s good to know
Thank you for passing on your knowledge! As a beginning woodworker and turner, I've watched many of your videos learning how to develop my technique. as a visual learner, I always walk away with something valuable, but this demonstration with explanation is great! Also, thank you for showing me why I'm getting so much tear out in pine! (and how to fix it!)
Love your work! Thank you for your inspiration! On a sidenote, a year or so ago, after watching many times over, each video you provided, I watched someone else turn with the skew. They had a catch, and made the comment, well I’m not Steve Jones… had to laugh, felt like being caught cheating, like you somehow knew I was watching someone else… Happy new year!
Lol! Thank you for you comments that made me smile. Ps. I do get a catch occasionally it happens to us all.
very good video steve its a good demo for people that are not used to using a skew keep them comming
Thank you
Very useful, indeed. Like this very much. Nice to see u more on TH-cam. Cheers, Martin.
Thank you
Thanks! That answered a lot of questions I had about the tear out I was getting.
I’m pleased to know it helped
THANK YOU. This is exactly the video I hoped you would make.
You’re welcome
When I started turning, about thirty years ago, I was advised to buy a 2.4m length of pine, cut it into 30cm lengths and lock myself into the workshop using the skew until it was all used up. It worked. Practice is the key, make mistakes, don’t expect perfection, develop your own style and keep the bevel rubbing. I adopted Garry Rance’s round skew and found it suited me well, but also used an oval skew for heavy work like Newel posts etc. The steel of the tools is harder than the tool rest and the round and oval skews are a little more gentle on the tool rest, in my opinion.
@@mergrew0110 it’s all personal choice but I dislike the oval skew. The round skew is excellent. However my skew comes as standard with the long edges rounded over so is just as easy on the tool rest
Thank you for the amazing tips. Happy New Year, Steve.
Thank you happy new year to you
00:14
00:38 As a brand new noob, this
is an excellent tip for me, clear and
concise, while so many other videos on
this point have had me confused.
However a few seconds later I hear;
lift till the bevel rubs, (I get this part)
but then I hear; lift slightly
more and it will naturally ''tip''....
saying this as the skew rotates
counter clockwise and is no longer
flat on the tool rest as best I can see.
shrugs...
So if I have this right, is it;
Set skew flat on the rest
lift handle till bevel rests on the project
Rotate handle slightly
?
Is it ABC , or ABTC anchor bevel, twist
cut?
1:04
2:23 45 degrees (less catching super clean cuts)
2:42 ''but will still cut no matter the angle.''
You are correct in you are to twist the handle very slightly rubbing the bevel does this naturally.
@@woodturner21 Ok, got it,
thanks much.
Great Demo, and from my limited experience the skew is a great tool to master but scary when you get a catch. Happy new year to you.
Thank you
I have perfected the art of the catch, but your comment about sharp tips... most of my catches start at the end of the exercise, so that makes perfect sense. MORE sharpening. Thankyou.
Thank you
Awesome skill with the Skew, Steve.🙏🙏
Thank you
Thanks for breaking into a bit of instruction. I need all the advice I can get with the skew, I seem to get quite a few catches when doing a bead, straight turning is OK though, I think I occasionally lose concentration and seem to get the point caught but it happens so quick I can't be sure. Great video and very helpful, appreciate the effort you put in.
Thank you, without seeing the problem I can say but getting the point caught maybe coming of the bevel from over rotation
You make it look so easy so nice to watch
Thank you
Thanks for the video. Just had my second practice this evening on a lathe I bought. Its definitely a great way to focus and forget the rest of the world. The points on the lathe are about a cm off however so it's not ideal for a beginner
Thanks it’s definitely therapeutic. The points being off are not to bad for spindle work but if using it for support on bowls or faceplate work it will be a problem.
Perfect video thank you so much for sharing your knowledge (perticularly now after several days of catching !)
Thank you
An excellent video, well explained on the correct techniques to turn wood. A demonstration of doing coves with the chisel would be appreciated, and yes I know, coves should be done with either a detail gouge or spindle gouge in reality as it is faster and leaves a superior finish.
Thank you. I have a few old videos that show turning a cove with a skew on my Facebook page I’ll try to sort them out.
You did have some already posted on your channel but the distance was too far away, perhaps a close up like you have done with the bead demonstrations would be great.
Ok
Thank you Steve for your time and willingness to share. Can't wait for more. Watching the video again today but this time it doesn't have transcript or captions. I was going to ask you about particular moment- about the second method of bead cut. The caption said something like "the edge of the chisel mustn't be sharp, or you are inviting a catch " . I can't hear well enough on the video whether it is must or mustn't?
The very tip of the chisel must be sharp.
Very enjoyable, and helpful. Though I turn mostly with carbide, I'm thinking I need at least a skew for cutting a clean pommel on spindles, which I just cannot figure out how to do with the carbide without awful tearout.
Thank you. Carbide is very difficult to cut pommels clean a skew or spindle gouge is a better choice.
Great tips. Thanks Steve. 😊 👍
Thank you
Enjoyed the video very much. Thanks!
Thank you
Very useful and very helpful. thanks for sharing
My pleasure 😊
Why have i never heard anyone recommend resting the skew flat on the tool rest before? Going to try this. I've essentially been afraid to use the she's and have been gravitating to a bowl gouge as you demonstrate where i can.
Let us know how you get on.
Yet another great video from the skew expert. 👍
Any suggestions on handle length relative to skew blade length please? I've made my handle & am concerned it's too long and restricting movement, but I don't want to make it too short.
Hi It’s a personal choice but I like a long handle so I can anchor it to the side of my body. My handles are 18” long
@@woodturner21 many thanks. Mine should be OK then, at 15 inches as I like the security of anchoring against my body.
Great tuition very useful.
Thank you
Thanks for sharing Steve.
Take care
Cheers
Harold
Thank you
Very nice Steve !
Thank you
Thanks for the useful information. Is there a good tool that allows you to measure the angle of the bevel/micro-bevel?
Thank you. I grind freehand and don’t measure so unfortunately I don’t have any recommendations but you can buy a digital angle measure
That was useful - thanks for sharing🙂
Thank you for letting me know.
@@woodturner21 Always good to see a very experienced and skilled operative at work - some greats tips - cheers
Thank you Steve. May I ask what is the proper length for the handle and how critical is it. The skew and bedan are probably the two most difficult tools to master.
It’s very much a personal choice. In my opinion a long handle mine is 18” gives you more control and needed to anchor to your body.
Like usual, wonderful!!!
Thank you
This isn't a rest as you make it look! Lol Enjoying learning from you Steve! I have a question.. my skew has a bit of a hollow grind. I'm wondering if that is more difficult to stay on the bevel as I turn beads because I get a lot of run backs. Maybe just my inexperience. Also my cut is serrated, not smooth. Thank you
Jeff
@@jeffdeluca1153 hi Jeff if you are getting an uneven cut or run back on beads you are coming of the bevel. My skew is hollow ground and it is not more difficult to ride the bevel. This post on my instagram might help with catch’s on the beads instagram.com/reel/CwCnpQisBiu/?igsh=MWxrOHVicHM4OWx2YQ==
If you have very hard wood it runs also easy? All videos I have seen, they use always soft wood.
@@marinabrennecke5495 no problem with hardwood if you check my Facebook or instagram there is loads using hardwood even lignium this one is Oak th-cam.com/video/3Bk-K_Ativs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=r6ANpmV_0Ko-r6Xz
Obviously some of the very hard Australian exotic woods you need a few extra cuts but the method is the same
Thank you so much for the explanation. You and Alan Batty are my skew hero’s (mentors). I have repeatedly watched your videos to analyze your technics. In Allan’s video he talks highly about Bill Jones. Are you related?
Now if I could only figure out how to get rid of the spiral on my long spindles... even with a steady rest. 😁
Watching your videos have been a tremendous help. Thank you!
Thank you, Bill is no relation but I knew of him. His ivory work was superb. The spiral is from vibration. If you are using a steady rest make sure you don’t over tighten the tailstock and have your tool rest above center and work high on the workpiece. Also don’t have the RPM to fast.
@@woodturner21 Thanks for the advice. I will give it a try. I was wondering if the vibration could be from turning wet wood versus dry wood, or if turning spindles with knots in them would cause the spirals.
Wet wood will vibrate slightly more than dry and dead knots can cause a problem. Live knots should not make a difference.
@@woodturner21 Thanks! I appreciate your help and quick response. I hope to “turn” your advice into a smooth spindle. I look forward to your future videos. They are inspirational!
Could you do a video about sharpening the skew chisel please?
I sharpen totally freehand so don’t think my sharpening videos will help much. I have one on my Facebook page if it’s something you want to see. facebook.com/TheWoodturners/videos/660464878243439/
@@woodturner21 Oops- that video is gone.
facebook.com/TheWoodturners/videos/163641739164608/
We need more lessons Steve!
Just watched you make a honey dipper on Instagram it shows a lot of different skew techniques thanks - you make it look so easy!
I’ve had conflicting advice in bevel angles though, what’s your preference?
It’s all personal preference but I favour a 30 degrees included angle and 15 degree skew
@@woodturner21 thanks Steve all the best 👍
Is the wood you are using in the demonstration green / wet? Should we expect continuous ribbon-like shavings like you get here in dried wood? My shavings are more fragmented and dusty, so I'm wondering if it is my technique or if it is the material. Thank you for the excellent demonstration.
Hi the wood is kiln dried as is every post I make. I never use green wood. Some woods you can’t get ribbons such as Wenge etc but any close grain wood you can get ribbons on dry timber.
@@woodturner21 Can't tell you how much I appreciate your reply. Knowing what things should look like is half the battle. My bet is that I am too hesitant and need an appropriately more aggressive combination of depth of cut, pressure, and feed. I need to practice until it looks like yours since I'm just using poplar, maple, pine, and walnut, maybe some oak. Thanks again.
Poplar Maple pine and Walnut all turn ok with ribbon shavings Oak will be very different and unlikely you will get ribbons from dry oak.
@@woodturner21 You mention never using green wood. I've some interest in learning to turn chairs of various forms, but the info I encounter make it seem that this must be done with green wood so that the joints will tighten as the wood dries. Some will even dry the portion that is to have a tenon turned into it and bore the mortise into green. Do you know- is all of this necessary? Or can reliable, lasting chairs be made directly from kiln dried wood? I've encountered many weak spindle chairs, some falling to pieces, so I've assumed the "green guys" were right, but maybe the poor chairs I saw weren't made right (or were older than I thought).
I’m no expert on chair making but know the old Windsor chairs were always made with wet wood and Bodgers turned them on pole lathes.
Some Windsor chair makers use wet wood However I don’t know of any production chair makers using wet wood so am confident you can make chairs with dry wood.
Thank you for the video, very useful tips.
Thank you for your comments
Beautiful presentation
Thank you
Curious as to where you set the height of your tool rest slightly above center?
@@Nonailfrail yes slightly above center
Great Video Steve.
Thank you
Great tips...very helpful!
Thank you
Thanks for sharing your incredible knowledge and skill! Very helpful as usual!
Thank you
Beautiful work thank you.
Thank you too!
Evening Steve. In another of your videos, you are working a piece that you describe as being a bit big for the skew but you managed it anyway. For us lesser mortals, what would you say is the maximum diameter to use a skew on?
@@999pil you can use a skew on any size I think the video you saw was talking about roughing out with the skew. I would not normally rough out anything bigger than 70 mm dia. As for how big you use the skew on normal planing cuts I think anything over 120mm is starting to require higher levels of control.
@@woodturner21 Thanks.
What do you use to keep your tools sharp 🤔 straight off the grinder or sharpening stone ? Thank you
Straight off the grinder an 8” CBN 180 wheel
Thank you for the help!!👍👍
Thank you for your comment
..Yes.. I enjoyed this very much. Thanks.
Thank you
good show, good year. 🇺🇾
Thank you
Thank you! The skew is hard to learn. I think most of the problem is not being confident. I can do it with a 10mm parting tool but move to a skew and it goes pear shaped. Same tool use in principle as I use the parting tool like a skew. A mental block or are they different?
The principles are the same but the feel is different. Relax and cut low on the cutting edge. If you can use a parting tool like a skew there’s no reason you can’t use a skew.
@@woodturner21 thank you, that’s my thinking too. I might try a narrow skew and step up the width of the skew as confidence grows. Thank you for taking the time to share your skills and help us to learn. Happy New Year 🤓
You’re welcome and enjoy the learning experience.
@@leewells1871 I was just saying to Steve that I bought a 1" round cornered skew on his advice a few years back. This skew made the learning curve much simpler. For my experience, the 1" skew seems to be much easier to control than the 3/4" skew. And the round cornered shank helps also.
Fantastic video, thank you!
Thank you
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for your comment
Great tutorial. Thanks.
Thank you
Is it okay to use this tool on both wet and dry wood? And is it important to have a long or medium length handle?
Yes you can use it on wet or dry wood. It’s generally for spindles only though so normally dry wood. A longer handle in my opinion gives you better control but it’s personal choice.
Thank you for sharing, appreciate it very much.
Thank you
Learned a lot, thank you
Thank you
Brilliant Steve thanks very much for that
Thank you
Very helpful. Thanks!
Thank you
Good info brother thanks
@@GRIZZ357 thank you
I need to hone my skew. Dear lord 😂
No clue who said it, but from an unknown skew master, "the bevel should rub the wood, but the wood should not know it." I am getting better, but need to turn several thousand more spindles...
That’s a good way of putting it. Robbo 👍
Seus vídeos são ótimos se fosse traduzido seria ótimo você e mestre nós tornos parabéns fredy jacobina Bahia Brasil.
Thank you
Спасибо за обучение!
You’re welcome
Cheers mate👌
Thank you
Excellent 👌🏻
Thank you