Was the ball hone invented after this was made? I usually see people use ball hones when the re-ring the engine. 13:30 Some piston types didn't have good oil return holes. As a result, some people would drill more holes in the piston to compensate. This usually does solve the problem. PCV Valves replaced the road draft tube around 1966. It reduced smog by burning the gasses in the cylinder. It also helped control sludge during cold weather operation. Some engines used a metering orifice instead, but that is less common. Having a properly functioning PCV system is critical to control oil consumption on engines that use it. People would sometimes clean an old PCV valve to save money back then, but it wasn't a good idea. The spring could fatigue and there is no way to know if that happened. Also, aftermarket PCV valves often don't have as precise a spring, so they don't work as well. Use them only when you can't get the OEM part. There is something that should have been mentioned about engine flushing. Sometimes so much sludge would break loose, that it would bury the oil pump pickup. The result would be no oil pressure. Keep an eye on oil pressure, and if it drops, you must remove the oil pan, clean it, and clean the oil pump pickup.
Back eons ago, on a sludged up mess, I"d drain the black goop, then overfill the warmed engine with water white kero JUST to break up the goop by cranking to get it in the galleries and up onto the cylinder wslls... NEVER run it. Let it sit an hour or more, then drain. On a bad one, you'd see globs of sludge come out the.drain. Drain thoroughly, change filter element, fill with SAE 10 and two cans of Alemite CD-4. Fast idle for 20-30 mins at thermostat temperature while monitoring oil pressure, drain. Heavy clumps coming out this time and dark oil color means the pan's going to have to come off anyway. If not that bad, refill with normal viscosity oil with one can of CD4, change filter, and run until up to temperature, listen for collapsed lifters and low oil pressure symptoms. If good, drive 500 miles and drain again, and see what comes out. Anything larger than little flecks of varnish or sludge, you pretty much have to drop the pan, check the pickup screen and possibly inspect the oil pump for wear. I did Step 1 on a '61 Ford 390 one time, and it clogged all the oil return holes AND the drain. Pulled the pan, and I got 3½ qts. of sludge out of the pan, with more in the vee. The lady had never changed the oil in TEN YEARS of city driving. After cleaning that mess out and freeing the rings with solvent, that 390 ran credibly well. She came back as advised in 500 miles, and the oil was was near black on the stick, but it was the CD4 that loosened up the rest of the sludge and carbon and small particles ran out easily. The filter was nearly clogged. She went on 2K oil changes after that and that 390 never would burn more than a ¼ qt between changes after that. I was amazed that the compression was still 180 lbs on all eight. Those FEs were TOUGH!
Oh NO...not kerosene! (You can use it, but I'd run a flush after using cheap new oil...kero dilutes oil and can varnish in these old low temperature engines.)
GOOD point! Sadly, they just didn't know that yet, at least not system wide. I'm an older Tech, now retired. For flushes... for the second flush, I'd use ATF. Does a great job of cleaning and flushing - AND, since it's a lubricant itself, doesn't do the harmful things that fuels and solvents would. I also advised the customers to come back between 500-750 miles, for a oil change, just to be safe...... Some even DID!
It may have been the best back then, due to the higher detergent content. Nowadays oil has plenty of detergent, so people rarely need to do an oil system flush. If it is needed, you have to buy a chemical made just for flushing an engine oil system.
Was the ball hone invented after this was made? I usually see people use ball hones when the re-ring the engine.
13:30 Some piston types didn't have good oil return holes. As a result, some people would drill more holes in the piston to compensate. This usually does solve the problem.
PCV Valves replaced the road draft tube around 1966. It reduced smog by burning the gasses in the cylinder. It also helped control sludge during cold weather operation. Some engines used a metering orifice instead, but that is less common. Having a properly functioning PCV system is critical to control oil consumption on engines that use it. People would sometimes clean an old PCV valve to save money back then, but it wasn't a good idea. The spring could fatigue and there is no way to know if that happened. Also, aftermarket PCV valves often don't have as precise a spring, so they don't work as well. Use them only when you can't get the OEM part.
There is something that should have been mentioned about engine flushing. Sometimes so much sludge would break loose, that it would bury the oil pump pickup. The result would be no oil pressure. Keep an eye on oil pressure, and if it drops, you must remove the oil pan, clean it, and clean the oil pump pickup.
Back eons ago, on a sludged up mess, I"d drain the black goop, then overfill the warmed engine with water white kero JUST to break up the goop by cranking to get it in the galleries and up onto the cylinder wslls... NEVER run it. Let it sit an hour or more, then drain. On a bad one, you'd see globs of sludge come out the.drain. Drain thoroughly, change filter element, fill with SAE 10 and two cans of Alemite CD-4. Fast idle for 20-30 mins at thermostat temperature while monitoring oil pressure, drain. Heavy clumps coming out this time and dark oil color means the pan's going to have to come off anyway. If not that bad, refill with normal viscosity oil with one can of CD4, change filter, and run until up to temperature, listen for collapsed lifters and low oil pressure symptoms. If good, drive 500 miles and drain again, and see what comes out. Anything larger than little flecks of varnish or sludge, you pretty much have to drop the pan, check the pickup screen and possibly inspect the oil pump for wear. I did Step 1 on a '61 Ford 390 one time, and it clogged all the oil return holes AND the drain. Pulled the pan, and I got 3½ qts. of sludge out of the pan, with more in the vee. The lady had never changed the oil in TEN YEARS of city driving. After cleaning that mess out and freeing the rings with solvent, that 390 ran credibly well. She came back as advised in 500 miles, and the oil was was near black on the stick, but it was the CD4 that loosened up the rest of the sludge and carbon and small particles ran out easily. The filter was nearly clogged. She went on 2K oil changes after that and that 390 never would burn more than a ¼ qt between changes after that. I was amazed that the compression was still 180 lbs on all eight. Those FEs were TOUGH!
Preventing the formation of sludge is the main benefit of using a good synthetic oil.
Yes sir !!!-
Oh NO...not kerosene! (You can use it, but I'd run a flush after using cheap new oil...kero dilutes oil and can varnish in these old low temperature engines.)
GOOD point! Sadly, they just didn't know that yet, at least not system wide. I'm an older Tech, now retired. For flushes... for the second flush, I'd use ATF. Does a great job of cleaning and flushing - AND, since it's a lubricant itself, doesn't do the harmful things that fuels and solvents would.
I also advised the customers to come back between 500-750 miles, for a oil change, just to be safe......
Some even DID!
Mechanic I knew ran cheap motor oil and diesel fuel to flush. - then refilled w Quaker State! -
Atf is great at flushing out a oil congested engine.
It may have been the best back then, due to the higher detergent content. Nowadays oil has plenty of detergent, so people rarely need to do an oil system flush. If it is needed, you have to buy a chemical made just for flushing an engine oil system.
Am I the only one who thinks that the Slant 6 Engine - INTRODUCED THAT SAME YEAR, was quite a bit too young for a re-ring job!!??? 😲😲😲
Should of used the muppets and saved money
Oil was worse back then too.
When men were mechanics.