Board Session With One of The Strongest Climbers in The World
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- This week, Louis is joined by Alex Lemel, legendary routesetter and climber talking about all things climbing whilst climbing classics on the Mile End board. A massive thank you to Mile End Climbing Wall who were incredible throughout the day!
Socials:
Louis Parkinson - @captaincutloose
Alex Lemel - @alexander.lemel
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Alex is such a g. Has a real appreciation for tradition in climbing while not being backwards-looking at all, lives and breathes it
I can happily say that I built the original Board Room at Mile End by dismantling the 'beginners' wall in that room and reconstructing the slotted-angle framework. It's taller and wider now, though. Must have been around '97, give or take. I also put in a crap off-vertical crimpy and pockety-hold wall on the left too, but no one ever used that. I never thought the room would last this long. Big hello to anyone from the 90s who remembers me.
I used the 20 degree wall. Great little wall with tiny crimps. However I do admit to using the main board most of the time. Still recon it was the best board I've ever climbed on. Even getting to the top using everything felt nails.
Both boards were really good the less steep one was like the cressbrook board at the school.All good.I remember seeing Chris Cubitt doing 40 hand move circuits on the original board.
Alex is just floating. Impressive strength.
6:24 - 7:04
Couldn't have said it better myself! I've recently gotten back into climbing after a rather long (4 year) break and what I've realised has helped me change my perspective on climbing is understanding that everybody has their own reasons and motivations to climb. The reason for my break to begin with was that I found myself hating climbing more and more after every session because I was so caught up in other people's motivations and goals and I never stopped to think about what I wanted out of climbing. To hear somebody as accomplished as Alex say that definitely gives me the motivation to climb for my own reasons and not worry about anybody else's!
Couldn't agree more. I'm 36 and I've started climbing like a year ago and it has become one of the most important things in my life. But this importance comes from the fact that I can relaxe, even be happy while climbing; and grades aren't important at all in that calculation. I know that I won't ever do what some of the young guys around me are doing; but that really doesn't bother me at all - on the contrary: I love to watch them, I love to watch competitions just for the love of the game. So cheers to you mate; have fun no the wall! ;)
“Board climbing gives back when you give to it”, Alex Lemel
Remember using the original board back in the mid to late 90s. Best board and still have fond memories of the problems. Just getting to the top using anything felt desperate
Alex has a great but very chilled attitude towards climbing.
Its really nice to hear strong, board climbers speak abotu respecting everyone's different motivation for climbing. I dont really want to climb outside much, i love gym climbing. Even at my early stage, i dont really want to MENTION that though. There are so many people who think REAL climbing is "x". Just do what you love and love it
You know it's a good video when the talking is equally inspiring as the climbing itself ;) Alex and Louis can both draw on a great deal of experience and you can feel their enthusiasm. Great collab👍.
My thoughts exactly.
Seems sick! Honestly, been climbing a spray wall a lot more, just as a training n creativity exercise.
Audio isn’t the best compared to usual but awesome watch 💪🏻👌
What a legend and what a sick board. I'll definitely visit this board if I'm ever in London. ❤
Alex is a legend.
Why are all Alex’s good climbers?
Alex Lemel
Alex Megos
Alex Puccio
Alex Honnold
Alexsey Rubtsov
Alex is so feckin strong, even his dynos look static 😅
“It’s about this right now”, Alex Lemel
Love this guy
I love watching two strong climbers I follow on socials climb hard spraywalls.
14:03 Here Louis, have a digital fistbump 👊
Louis ever thought on doing captions in other languages, it could get you reach much further, love your content and the way you deliver the message super knowledgeable and fun
Lemel's chisel crimp is so good!
This was awesome? Alex rocks. Go see Joe Walmsley’s board at the quay in Exeter!
I have the same mindset with my running. 99% of folk specifically train for a race or an end goal. My end goal is to survive
Legend!
Warm up... 😱😱
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the beast the myth, those who know, know
nice one!
only left richt boulders
He looks like Harbard from the tv show vikings...
Anyone have any advice for getting into this dynamic crimpy style of bouldering that you see so often on board climbs? I think it looks so cool but it is obviously probably high injury risk if you're not ready for it. There seems to be such a big divide between slow static crimps, big moves with good holds, and stuff like this. Is there a benchmark of you need to have a certain level of strength before it's safe?
I'd recommend watching Louis video explaining his ethos. Basically it's - try moves between the biggest holds on the training board in your gym, if you can do them then start loading up the easiest problems in your next session and try those out. Stop if you get pain (wrists was one for me when I started out). Warm up well, listen to your body.
When is a good time to start will vary for each person. If your fingers hurt and you fall off every single overhang v3 with small holds in any gym then it's probably too soon for a moonboard but something like a kilterboard goes down to v0/1.
14:01
How tall is Loui?
Louis, would you recommend someone go straight to a 30 degree (even if they struggle) or spend more time on a 15 degree wall?
I'm not Louis but I would say go to 30. It's just not board climbing at and less of an angle.
@@phineasg7709 Thanks!
Is it just me, or is this channel good for depression?
Damn all that wasted strength, brother needs to get outdoors on some real boulders 😂😂😉😉
Wowzer! I've always assumed Louis was very strong but he's a weak little scrub compared with this mutant, Alex should be in Marvel comics 🤣🤣🤣🤣 Amazing video!